India – part 1

Visited: February 2000

Duration of visit: 22 days

Capital city: Delhi

Population: 1,057 million (2000)

Estimated reading time: 14 minutes

• Tasty food, inexpensive travelling and friendly people in Calcutta.
• Visiting multiple Buddhist temples in Bodh Gaya.
• Navigating Ganges River and observing a daily ritual of bathing in Varanasi.
• Holy cows, sadhus and cast system.
• Taj Mahal – the greatest monument to love.

India was part of my Asian Big Tour from Australia, through Southeast Asia and China to India. During this 15-months long trip I visited most of the countries in the region and spent and spent almost a month and a half travelling around India, before returning home completely out of money, but rich in experiences.

Having cultivated a deep appreciation for Indian culture, I regard India highly among the nations of Asia. During my 40-day journey across India, I was only able to explore the northern region of the country. I am confident that I will return in the future to uncover the unique and captivating aspects of the South India as well.

In this article I describe the first part of my trip to India in 2000: human rickshaws in Calcutta, Buddha enlightenment at Bodh Gaya, Varanasi – the ultimate pilgrimage spot for Hindus, the importance of holy cows and impact of Hinduism, Taj Mahal – the greatest monument to love.

More articles about my India adventures are available here:

Before my trip to India, many travelers warned me that Indians could be rather unfriendly, if not aggressive and intrusive. However, during the first week, I experienced the complete opposite.

Everyone I’ve met has been incredibly friendly. Majority of people have treated me with great respect, referring to me as Sir.

The prices have been surprisingly reasonable, and after some tough negotiations, I’ve even managed to get better deals than the locals. The employees at hotels and restaurants are particularly helpful and always ready to assist. Most Indians that I have met, speak excellent English. Nevertheless, the strong accent can sometimes make it a bit tricky to understand or funny to listen.

The situation at Indian railway stations can be very chaotic. If I ask around, the answers are not consistent. Fortunately, there is always someone who rescues me from trouble and directs me to the right path.

India can present many challenges for those who are naïve or unprepared, but with some precaution, perseverance, and occasionally even a touch of rudeness, I can turn it into an unforgettable adventure.

Another common issue is the presence of beggars, homeless and cows. I noticed a considerable number of them, particularly in Varanasi and Bodhgaya, but they were less common in other places. In general, we can either ignore or accept them as an integral part of Indian society.

Similar attitude also applies to the cows on the streets and the litter found on every corner. It’s not unusual to see men urinating in public areas; next to a wall, in a ditch or behind a tree. It can happen anywhere, in urban as well as in rural environments.

When I boarded the first train from Bangladesh border to Calcutta, it was almost empty. As we approached the city, it quickly became crowded until, after a short nap, I woke up in a packed carriage. The iron bars on windows were giving the feeling as if I was part of a transport unit for prisoners.

From the railway station to the famous Sudder Street, Calcutta’s local version of Khao San Road, I took a classic yellow & black taxi, just like the ones I had seen on TV. The area around Sudder Street is clean and tourist friendly, with affordable hotels and a great location to explore many attractions in Calcutta.

The first couple of hotels I visited were in a shabby condition and overpriced. A kindly stranger took me to some hotels located in the side streets, and after a quick negotiation, I negotiated the price from 350 to 200 rupees. So, for a little over 5.00 US$, I got a room with a decent bed, cable TV, a private bathroom and chai.

Indian tea or chai is a delightful mix of ginger, cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and black pepper, combined with black tea leaves, hot water and steaming milk.

I drunk at least three cups of hot chai per day in all kind of formal or informal settings.

The food was one of the most pleasant surprises when I crossed the border from Bangladesh to India. Small snacks are available everywhere on the streets, while I spotted many restaurants offering a menu with Indian, European, Chinese and Japanese cuisine.

Since I am in India, I am excited to taste Indian food, which for me is extremely tasty and cheap. I can enjoy a meal for less than a dollar, including thick yogurt drink, lassi, which can be salty or sweet. I have a low tolerance to spicy food, but the spiciness has been manageable so far.

I didn’t find Calcutta to be particularly remarkable; a typical big city lacking unique attractions. The Victoria Memorial is the most important monument from the colonial period, but I was wondering its true purpose. I had imagined Birla Planetarium to be more engaging, but it ended up being a long film about planetary movements with the facts that I had already learned in primary school.

Calcutta is one of the last cities in the world where human rickshaws are still in use.

Operated by barefoot men from the lowest castes, these carriages recall memories of a time when exploitation was common. As human-pulled carts pass the wealthy residences or downtown shopping areas, trying to avoid collision with larger vehicles, honorable passengers with a disdainful view of the runner could not have created a stronger contrast.

The overnight train from Calcutta to Gaya was pleasant. At night, the general hustle and bustle calmed down, only here and there a shouting chai vendor would attract attention with a resounding voice:

“Chai, chai!”

We reached Gaya right on time, at half past six in the morning. I took an auto rickshaw for the final 10 kilometers to Bodh Gaya.

Bodh Gaya is a Buddhist pilgrimage site where apparently Gautama Buddha attained enlightenment under the Bodhi Tree.

For Buddhists, Bodh Gaya is the most important of the four major pilgrimage sites related with the life of Gautama Buddha.

Mahabodhi Temple, where the Buddha attained enlightenment, is now the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Most of the predominantly Buddhist countries have their temples in the city. I walked from one to another and observed particularly interesting architecture. I had the opportunity to explore the temples of several countries: Nepal, Tibet, China, Thailand, Japan and from Bhutan – the most picturesque one, with paintings and three-dimensional sculptures.

I was completely amazed by the city. Just sitting back and observing the passing rickshaws, women in picturesque saris, street vendors and the lively atmosphere was enough to captivate me.

When I ordered food, it took a very long time to be served. I figured this was a good sign as the food was freshly prepared. Although I couldn’t see the kitchens, I suspected they were using wood or charcoal for cooking, which extended the cooking time.

Varanasi has been famous as the ultimate pilgrimage site for Hindus for many centuries, standing out as one of the 7 holy cities in India. Dying in this sacred city allows a believer to gain liberation from the cycle of birth and rebirth.

As I approached Varanasi in the early evening darkness, I quickly noticed that the first hotels I visited were fully booked. A friendly guy approached me and guided me to a small hotel, where I was able to get a clean bed and a private bathroom for only a few dollars.

The following morning, prior to sunrise, I hired a boat and navigated the river to the holiest cremation grounds among the sacred riverfronts, called ghats, Manikarnika Ghat.

I could get a sense of the grandeur of Varanasi from river perspective: the ancient architecture, worshippers honoring their deities along the banks, meditating and bathing in the morning sun. I was expecting a larger turnout of pilgrims; however, the morning’s chill appeared to demotivate them. Later during the day, the number of visitors increased. Men, dressed in minimal garments were bathing in the Ganges, reminding me of my own youthful experiences of swimming the river of my native village.

For the first time in India, I noticed bigger groups of tourists, primarily from Japan. Their presence has led to an increase number of Japanese restaurants and the presence of Asian signs in souvenir shops.

In the afternoon, I explored the banks of the Ganges River, where I compared the costs of cremation between different methods: the traditional method, which is using firewood, and a modern crematorium. The ratio of 10:1 favoring the traditional method illustrates the high appreciation that Hindus have for the natural practice.

Being cremated with firewood in a ghat on Ganges river is nearly as important for devout Hindus as life itself.

A walk through the narrow streets of the old quarter of the city offers a series of interesting experiences, with the most captivating being the encounter with holy cows, strangely dressed backpackers, rickshaws and motorbikes, all of which contributed to the general chaos.

The following day, the hotel manager extended me an invitation to visit a silk factory, promising to offer the finest quality items at unbeatable prices.

“You are under no obligation to make a purchase!” …

… was an argument, when I expressed lack of interest.

Although I had no plans to buy silk presents, since I had already spent my budget, I found myself taking a brief look around a tiny workshop filled with weaving equipment. I spotted some high-quality products, especially those adorned by gold and silver colors, crafted from numerous threads.

I took a seat with the owner of the shop. He offered me a cup of chai, while the well-dressed manager’s brother began setting up tablecloths and scarves for display. Since I wasn’t interested in buying anything, the vendor grew increasingly frustrated and eventually proposed me to purchase a small handcrafted tapestry for 300 rupees. Given my trust in the manager and the tapestry’s appeal, I didn’t haggle to much over the price and settled for 250 rupees. The vendor initially showed annoyance, but quickly agreed to my price.

In the evening, I stumbled upon a very similar piece of art in a local store, though with a distinct design, for a mere 80 rupees. I was so shocked that I nearly fainted. I made my way back to the hotel and, in a very angry manner, told the manager about the incident.

When I warned him about the possibility of calling the police, he quickly agreed to give me the money back, while I would return him the tapestry. Before leaving Varanasi, I purchased a really quality tapestry together with an amazing pillow for only 250 rupees.

The dominating religion in India is the Hinduism, which is practiced by almost 80% of the population, or more than 800 million people (in 2000). Outside India, Hinduism is also the dominant religion in Nepal, Bali, Mauritius and Fiji. In terms of number of believers, Hinduism is the most widespread religion in Asia.

In Hinduism, the universe is the domain of God, with all elements within it representing God’s presence. Every person is essentially divine; the goal of life is to explore, discover and express this inner divinity. Hinduism is non-exclusive religion, naturally welcoming and recognizing all other religions and spiritual practices.

Generally speaking, Hinduism assumes that we are all earthlings on the path of rebirths and reincarnation, at the end of which comes spiritual salvation – moksha – liberation from the cycle of rebirths. With each birth, we can get closer or further away from moksha, depending on our actions, which are expressed in good and bad karma.

The Hindu religion is based on three basic rules: worship, cremation of the dead and the caste system. Hinduism is not a proselytizing religion, which means, that no one can become a Hindu by his own decision.

You are born a Hindu, but you can never become one.

A holy cow and a sadhu are also an integral part of Hinduism. I encountered sadhus and cows in all regions of India: however, the concentration of their appearance in Varanasi and Rishikesh was much higher.

The second mother, as a cow is often referred to, has a completely different fate in India in comparison with any other country. If I make a comparison to Western culture, cows are treated more like dogs or cats rather than some other animals, which end up in the kitchen or on the barbeque.

In both, large urban areas and rural settings, cows are allowed to walk around freely, whether in natural surroundings or on the streets.

I have often seen them wandering through the narrow streets of Varanasi, Calcutta or Delhi, appearing lost. However, I have been told that every cow has an owner. Amidst the chaotic mix of motorbikes, rickshaws and pedestrians, cows were searching food in the garbage, on the ground or in the drainage system, while street vendors were always ready to deter them with sticks. Their diet often includes items such as paper, cardboard, plastic or even their own urine.

Since cows are sacred in India, their meat is not consumed. When a cow dies near the Ganges river, its corpse is often thrown into the river.

If this is not feasible, the carcass may be left for other animals to consume or taken away from the public eye, but the meat is never eaten by humans.

The sacred cow offers two important benefits: its milk, which is mainly used for tea and lassi, and its dung, which in dried form is used as fuel either for cooking or heating.

A sadhu is a person who seeks spiritual purification and enlightenment. Sadhus are religious ascetic, mendicant, or holy people who have abandoned the material aspects of life. Recognizable by their long hair, beards and simple, often orange clothes, these men have normally achieved great success in the material, family and business spheres. In the second part of their lives they decided to pursue the spiritual aspects.

Sadhus travel with only bare necessities and obtain food through the generosity of others. They are known to cover great distances between Hindu holy cities. I saw many of them around India, but specially in Varanasi and Rishikesh. Sadhu is also called baba, which in many Indian languages ​​also means father, grandfather or uncle.

The caste system is one of the most controversial features of India, which is practically incomprehensible and unacceptable to me. The caste system divides people into four different classes.

Apart from these four classes, there is a fifth group, called DALIT, which includes people that are practically casteless. They are marginalized, without rights and possibilities to achieve anything important in life.

Although the actual segregation in practice often deviates from the formal one on paper, the different position of people is visible in all pores of Indian life. Subalterns worship their higher caste masters as true gods, and the latter treat their servants or subordinates as slaves with no right to a normal life.

For the first time in India, eating out at basic eateries or canteens, I ended up with digestive issues, stomach pain and diarrhea. It seemed inevitable and only the question of time, given my travel and eating habits. I successfully addressed the consequences by utilizing effective, inexpensive, locally manufactured diarrhea medication. From then on, I decided to apply greater caution regarding my consumption of dairy products. Lassi was not on my menu anymore.

The primary attraction of Agra is undoubtedly the Taj Mahal, considered the most magnificent monuments of love.

This stunning and unparalleled monument of love is difficult to describe properly. The Taj Mahal is built in memoir to Mumtaz Mahal, the wife of Shah Jahan, who died during the birth of her 14^th child.

Here are some interesting facts about Taj Mahal, which is also one of the Seven Wonders of the World and the India’s most visited tourist attraction.

A perfect mix of Persian, Islamic and Indian architecture combines the beautiful white marble structure with more than 40 types of precious and semi-precious stones, including pearls, diamonds, emeralds and sapphires.

It took around 20 years to complete the Taj Mahal and approximately 20,000 workers and 1,000 elephants were employed during the construction. If we evaluate the value of the Taj Mahal through today’s perspective, its construction would be estimated at about 1 billion US dollars.

Due to the elevated ticket prices, which are set at 500 rupees or 12 US$, I waited until Friday, when the entry was free of charge.

The color of the monument keeps changing throughout the day. I made the most out of the beautiful sunny day with clear sky to visit it in the late afternoon, when colors are particularly beautiful. I spotted visitors from various religious backgrounds, including Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims. They were all posing at the end of pool, with the monument in the background and didn’t mind me taking a photo of them as well.