India – part 2

Visited: February 2000

Duration of visit: 18 days

Capital city: Delhi

Population: 1,057 million (2000)

Estimated reading time: 17 minutes

• Camel trip in Rajasthan introduced me to remote villages, magic desert and simplicity of daily tasks.
• Friendly reception of Sikh pilgrims at the Golden Temple in Amritsar.
• McLeod Ganj: in search of Dalai Lama in Buddhist retreat under Himalaya.
• Shopping in Delhi, before returning home after ending 15-month Asian Big Tour.
• Rishikesh – the Yoga Capital of the World.

India was part of my Asian Big Tour from Australia, through Southeast Asia and China to India. During this 15-months long trip I visited most of the countries in the region and spent and spent almost a month and a half travelling around India, before returning home completely out of money, but rich in experiences.

Having cultivated a deep appreciation for Indian culture, I regard India highly among the nations of Asia. During my 40-day journey across India, I was only able to explore the northern region of the country. I am confident that I will return in the future to uncover the unique and captivating aspects of the South India as well.

In this article I describe the second part of my trip to India in 2000: riding a camel in desert of Rajasthan, the temple of rats, learning about Sikhism, The Golden Temple of Sikhs in Amritsar, Buddhist retreat in McLeod Ganj, practicing yoga in Rishikesh.

More articles about my India adventures are available here:

As soon as I realized that India offers the possibility of a desert camel safari, I included the province of Rajasthan in my itinerary. There is a distance of almost 900 kilometers from Agra to Jaisalmer. I undertook the initial leg to the city of Jodhpur aboard an uncomfortable bus, navigating through chaotic and poorly maintained roads, which offered very little comfort.

The second part of the journey I traveled overnight by train, sharing the compartment with a group of soldiers who entertained me with offerings of onions and tomatoes. Despite experiencing stomach discomfort, I couldn’t decline their hospitality.

Rocky cliffs, sand dunes, green oases and isolated villages in the western part of India’s Rajasthan province provide all the necessary ingredients for an unforgettable camel safari.

The city of Jaisalmer, also known as the Golden City, is distinguished by its mighty fortress built in 1154 and its breathtaking sunsets, making it the best place to organize desert adventures. Many tourists, travelers and Indian students are received by eager hotel scouts, who additionally suggest the best, the cheapest and most exciting safaris on earth.

To avoid the scam, I preferred visiting a few tourist agencies in the city by myself and decide on the one that adjusts to my wishes: a proper combination of ancient tombs, sand dunes, well-trained camels and stopping in less touristy villages. My request was to ride camels as much as possible, since this was my first opportunity of this kind.

The first part of my desert expedition is completed by jeep. The first stop reminds me of smaller mosques, but the structures are actually the ancient tombs of Rajasthani kings – maharajas. The guide explains me that until the arrival of English colonists, a ritual for all maharaja’s wives was to be buried alive with him.

The monuments not only highlight the maharajas but also feature the profiles of their unfortunate wives. The number of wives varies up to ten, that I notice on one of the tombs.

During my four-day safari, the scenery is dominated by rocky desert, interrupted by sand dunes, sparse vegetation and occasional tall trees visible from far distance. Once or twice per day we spot green oases and villages. When we arrive at the first village on the second day, the camels take the chance to graze, and our guide, Mr. Khan, fills plastic canisters with water available at the water tank. At the end of the dry season, the water reserves are almost finished, while the landscape is completely arid.

Dressed in warm clothing and topped with a turban, I protect myself as the sun prepares to blaze at its peak during midday. I expected that riding a camel for a long time would be boring; however, the environment proves to be quite engaging for the observation. A range of colors, structures, sizes and forms is seldomly interrupted by a flock of sheep, looking for food, while the shepherd, covered by a colorful turban, retreats into the shadows.

The intense heat of the desert doesn’t seem to deter the people of Rajasthan from settling down in this challenging environment with scarce resources. Small clusters of houses are scattered across the region, often several kilometers apart. I am told that in a few months, as the rains arrive, inhabitants will plant wheat and vegetables in the barren soil. The trees will flourish again, water reserves will be restored and people will be busy working on the fields.

While observing my guide during a break, I realize that beside the basic camping skills, it’s important to know various methods for cooking and washing in the dry outdoors. One interesting task is how to clean dishes. When water is scarce, desert sand is a useful substitute. I had left soap at the hotel, as personal washing is only possible before or after the safari.

The food usually includes Indian dishes like chapati, rice, lentils and a variety of vegetables seasoned with curry and sometimes chili. Indian chai, made with powdered milk, is usually the first thing we prepare before any meal.

In the late afternoon, we reach a sand dune where we would spend the night. Sleeping under the stars in the desert is an experience I will never forget.

Later, the wind picks up the sand and blows it right into my face, obliging me to seek the safe shelter of my tent.

On the following day, the weather changes. Clouds cover the sky, and a strong wind stirs up desert dust. We halt in the largest settlement that we would encounter on this trip. The houses, constructed from mud, sand and cement, are simply decorated in shades of white and orange. Unlike many Indian cities that show signs of colonial British influence, the homes here are either newly built or have been beautifully renovated.

Women and children rush into the yard to greet us with “come stai,” reflecting the influence of Italian tourists in this area.

Women wear colorful saris, adorned with inexpensive jewelry that stands out against the dull landscape. Their kindness may not be their most notable quality, which is understandable considering the tough living conditions in the Rajasthan desert.

After the final shouts of the most persistent children disappear behind me, I pay attention to the bell affixed to my camel’s neck. Step by step in a steady rhythm, the camel leads me through the bushes on a network of invisible paths towards the precisely chosen destination, as if these paths are marked by some mysterious signs understood only by the industrious animals.

During each longer pause, the guide ties their legs to keep them close. They feed on the rare green clusters of thorny trees that they constantly chew as we move forward.

The center of the activities in Bikaner is the street next to the railway station, where affordable lodgings are also located.

I enjoy a cheap all-you-can eat thali for lunch. In a simple restaurant – canteen, thali is actually the only food served. I sit down on one of the long wooden benches.

First, I get a large banana leaf and a bowl to wash my hands. Two waiters walk around with buckets containing food and distribute it to the guests with large ladles. Their task could be defined as a mission to ensure that nobody has empty banana leaf in front of him until the moment, when we clearly announce that we finish eating. For half a dollar, I eat unlimited portions of rice, chapatis, several types of vegetables with curry. I hesitate to order a lassi, because I’m worried it might upset my digestion.

Among the many temples I visit in India, the one that will especially remain in my memory is Karni Mata Temple, located 30 kilometers south of Bikaner. A prominent Hindu temple is an important pilgrimage site for pilgrims and is also a popular destination for tourists, since it is renowned as the Temple of Rats due to the numerous rodents, which are considered holy and treated with utmost care by devotees.

Before the entrance, it is necessary to take off shoes, which further complicates the situation for people with a fear of these unfriendly animals. Rats literally walk between my legs. People offer them food and worship them.

Of the thousands of kābā rats in the temple, there are a few white kābā, which are considered to be especially holy.

They are believed to be the manifestations of Karni Mata herself and her nephews. Seeing them is considered a special blessing. I observe extensive efforts to bring the white rats forth, offering prasad, a sweet holy food.

A man next to me uses a banana as bait, which lures one white rat to show itself for a few seconds.

It is my lucky day!

My next stop is the capital of Punjab province – Amritsar, also the capital of Sikh religion, in the northern part of India. The night ride on super express train should have been more appropriate called super local train. Despite the fact that I sleep most of the night, I am extremely tired when we arrive at the final stop.

The constant screaming of chai, chai, chaaaaaai (tea), boarding, getting off the train of multi-member Indian families, turning on and off the lights, loudly searching for proper seat numbers and murmuring of bags are some of the reasons why I am forced to rest for a few hours in a real hotel bed of upon arrival to Amritsar.

There are 18 million members of Sikh religious group, which are well-known by long beards and turbans of various colors and shapes wrapped around their heads.

Their distinctive appearance is marked by symbols known as the Five Ks, making them easily identifiable:

• Kesh (uncut hair – symbol of sainthood),
• Kangha (a wooden comb for the hair – symbol of purity),
• Kara (an iron bracelet – symbol of determination),
• Kachera (a 100% cotton elastic undergarment – symbol of liveliness),
• Kirpan (an iron dagger form defense).

Sikhism originated in 1469 when Guru Nanak tried to unite the best of Hinduism and Islam. Sikh basic doctrine is quite similar to Hindu, but they do not acknowledge the existence of a caste system, while pilgrimages are not directed to sacred rivers.

I take a rickshaw to the holiest Sikh temple called Harmandir Sahib, or simply The Golden Temple, due to its brilliant appearance. The temple is a personalization of glory, harmony and equality. Similar to entering Buddhist, Hindu or Muslim temples, it is necessary to take off my shoes and leave them in dedicated lockers before the entrance.

I am one of seldom visitors who don’t wear a turban. We are obliged to covered our hair with a hat or scarf.  After washing my feet, guards armed with spears give me permission to enter into the holy area.

The view on gilded central temple in the late afternoon sun impresses me so much, that I immediately position the Golden Temple alongside most important religious temples in India.

The water in the pool around the island where the temple is located has a similar meaning as the river Ganges for Hindus. I am surprised with various swimmers, despite the fact that walking on white and extremely clean marble tiles brings cold into my feet.

The Sikhs believe that spiritual possessions can be gained by taking a dip in the holy water of the sacred pool. Even while bathing, men don’t separate from two indispensable parts of their equipment: the turban remains wrapped around the head, while personal knife or real sword is stuck behind the edge of their turbans.

While walking slowly on marble path around the pool, I shyly ask some of the most picturesque pilgrims a permission to take a photo of them. Their grim faces brighten in an instant and let me know that I don’t bother them with this action. There are hardly and non-Sikhs inside the temple. A real relief from the crowd of Europeans and especially Japanese tourists, who have been always around me since I crossed Bangladeshi- Indian border over a month ago.

The Golden Temple is located below the ground level, signifying that visitors must be humble and descend to reach the temple of God.

The gilded dome, designed in a mixture of Muslim and Hindu style, is covered by 162 kilograms of gold layers. Its form represents a lotus flower turned upside down, symbolizing the Sikh’s concern for the worldwide problems.

There are four entrances, indicating openness to all devotees irrespective of caste or creed. Many throw money and flowers into a dedicated area or donate pastries, bow down and quickly shout unrecognizable words. I just silently observe many pilgrims, details of magnificent architecture, warm hospitality and captivating peace.

The sacred Guru Granth Sahib (collection of nearly 6,000 hymns) is brought under a pink tablecloth from the Sikh Parliament every morning and returned to the same place late in the evening. When I am leaving the temple, I receive a cake of suspicious brown appearance, but excellent taste (prasad).

One of the pilgrims invites me for a short chat in the common dining room. During our chai time, he explains me about other services available in the temple. Sikhs are very receptive and friendly, so a common kitchen, dining room and library have been built in the temple complex. For those pilgrims and casual visitors who want to stay overnight, free accommodation is also provided.

The kitchen in Golden Temple is the largest free kitchen in the world. It serves more than fifty thousand meals on a daily basis. Younger people help the elders, the rich help the poor, so all the services within the temple are free.

“The color of the turban and its shape play no special role“, explains my interlocutor, who is proud of his yearly pilgrimage from Delhi to Amritsar that lasts several weeks.

In addition, there is a casual version of turban, which is used for sports activities or sleeping. This form is reminiscent of a sock that is tied into a ball and placed on the head.

“The turban is worn by all men in order to cover their long hair, which they would never cut.”

I was curious about the implications of cutting a Sikh’s hair. The response I received was unequivocal:

“You can cut off a Sikh’s head, but never his hair!“

 The debate about hair was over.

Later I read in a brochure that hair is considered a source of vital energy, especially vitamin D, which is essential for the development and integrity of all tissues and organs within the body. Longer hair can absorb more vitamin D from sunlight.

In Indian history, the Sikhs have a special significance as they are renowned as extremely diligent workers, above average educated and with an instinctive ability for trade or negotiations. With their authoritative posture, they form an important part of Indian army or personal security guards of the most influential Indians. Most notable is the former personal guard of the deceased Indira Gandhi, who assassinated her in 1984, because she hadn’t reacted adequately on riots in Punjab area.

In the early 1980s, a faction of Sikh extremists took control of the Golden Temple, calling for the creation of an independent state, Khalistan. The Indian Army’s attack on the Sikh holy city sparked riots, disputes and protests in Punjab and ultimately led to the assassination of Indira Gandhi.

After the Cultural Revolution in China and the expulsion from Tibet, the Dalai Lama found refuge in the hilly area of ​​the village of McLeod Ganj, in the northern part of India. This small settlement just below the stunning Himalayas, offers breathtaking views and creates a very distinct atmosphere from anything I had seen in India before.

While the narrow streets and limited space present some challenges for traffic, I moved around on foot easily. I recognize many Tibetans and their descendants by their distinctive facial features. Many of them participate in daily rituals of praying, pilgrimage, meditation and spinning of the sacred wheels.

The local food, souvenirs, language and music create an image of Tibet as I imagine it from books or travelers’ stories.

Since I continue eating food from the street restaurants, unfortunately the diarrhea regains its strength, sending fear into my ass, which explodes every few minutes in the early hours of the morning. My stomach’s complaints force me to stick to bland food; rice and bread are the sole ingredients of my diet for the next two days, until my digestion normalizes again.

In McLeod Ganj, I also visit a temple dedicated to the Dalai Lama; a simple blue building adorned with sculptures of Buddha, various deities and ancient texts. In the main room, a dozen of the most devoted followers gathers to listen to a monk’s teachings.

The driver navigates the road like a madman all night, pausing for thirty minutes every few hours. As a result, we waste all the time he saves through wild and hazardous driving. Although I manage to sleep for a few hours, I finish the trip exhausted, hungry and in the bad mood. Upon our arrival in Rishikesh, after 17-hour bus journey, my fatigue reaches its peak.

Rishikesh, located at the foothills of the Himalayas, is known as the Gateway to the Garhwal Himalayas and the Yoga Capital of the World.

The city promotes a vegetarian lifestyle and has a ban on alcohol.

I didn’t come to Rishikesh for sightseeing, but to disconnect from usual hustle and bustle of everyday life in India, to explore meditation, yoga and life in an ashram – a spiritual monastery. Ashrams are a kind of centers of temporal retreats for spiritual inspiration, teachings and practice. Many of them can be located in very remote areas, but this is not always the case.

At first, I intend to stay in one of the ashrams. However, my favorite one is full and the second too neglected. I decide to spend the first night in a hotel. The next day I settle into an ashram that offers meditation, yoga classes and delicious vegetarian cuisine. The front desk personnel appeared to be bored, spending most of their time engrossed in cricket matches. It seems that meditation and yoga inspire more visitors than locals.

I participate in multiple sessions of yoga, which is beneficial for calming down and relaxing. At the same time, I feel that my body is increasing the flexibility after twisting for two hours, following teacher’s instructions. The rest of the day I rest to recover from the strain on my joints. I feel a little dizzy, the persistent diarrhea reemerged, as it has frequently done during my stay in India. It is part of the experience.

My journey in India finish in the capital, Delhi. I am already an experienced backpacker for Indian standards. In the early morning, I take a moment to enjoy chai before taking a taxi from the central train station to the area of hotels. Beside loving Indian chai, this break was arranged on purpose to wait until most of the crowd had departed and most of the informal assistants had ceased their activities.

I find the capital city of India to be underwhelming.

Maybe this evaluation is unfair, since my main task is to find an inexpensive flight back to Europe. Throughout my day at the Aeroflot office, where I am arranging my return ticket, I perceive Delhi as a disordered and chaotic metropolis, similar to the rest of India. The streets are filled with numerous small shops, old buildings, even in New Delhi, and aggressive vendors offering various services and goods.

Since this is the final stop of my 15-months long travels, I want to purchase a number of goods and souvenirs before my return home. The Paharganj area is well-known for concentration of unexpansive hotels, casual dining options and a wide range of shops orientated towards budget-conscious buyers.

The Paharganj is my paradise for two days, where after hard negotiations and searching for bargains, I make some good deals.

Unfortunately, I don’t have sufficient time for an in-depth exploration of Delhi’s attractions, but I am looking forward to concluding my extensive Asian Big Tour and returning home after over a year.