Northern Angola

Visited: July 2025

Duration of visit: 7 days

Capital city: Luanda

Population: 38 million (2025)

Northern Angola travel blog reading time: 14 minutes

• Luanda – an emerging capital on the Atlantic Ocean with rich Portuguese colonial architecture and some interesting landmarks,
• Beaches, bars, restaurants and fun on Ilha do Cabo.
• Admiring the impressive Calandula Falls, among the largest in Africa by volume.
• Pedras Negras in Pungo Andongo – unusual mountain shapes and legends.

After years of conflict and instability, Angola finally reopened to tourism in 2024, easing restrictions and normalizing prices. A year later, I flew out of Lisbon and began my journey of in its capital, Luanda. Because of the country’s vast size, I first explored the northern region and then took a flight to Namibe in the south, avoiding the long and exhausting bus journey.

In this article I describe some highlights of the first part of my trip to Angola in 2025, where I spent the first week of travelling: Luanda, Mabunda Fish Market, Ilha de Luanda, Calandula Falls and Pedras Negras.

More articles about Angola adventures are available here:

My airplane landed at night and the immigration process went smoothly. No visa is needed to visit Angola in 2025; a huge change from just two decades ago, when it was one of the most complicated and expensive countries to enter. Now, with open borders, the country has started to welcome tourists.

My host, Fabio, was waiting for me at the airport. Since I couldn’t exchange money and the SIM card booth was already closed, it was a relief to have someone trustworthy meet me at late hour. He drove me to his centrally located apartment, which was the cheapest option I had found on Airbnb. I quickly understood why: there was no running water, and the cozy description was far from accurate. I ended in a small, rundown place infested with cockroaches. Not the best start to my Angola adventure.

The next morning, I asked Fabio to cancel my reservation:

“Unfortunately, I cannot stay at your place without running water.”

The shower drain was clogged and I had to scoop water from an inconvenient container to wash myself.

After that, I switched to a mid-range apartment in Luanda. It was slightly larger than I needed, but it had excellent facilities and a central location, making my stay much more comfortable and enjoyable.

Luanda, the capital of Angola, is an emerging capital on the Atlantic Ocean with rich Portuguese colonial architecture, some interesting landmarks, beaches and bars on Ilha do Cabo. It has experienced major construction and modernization boom, which has led to congestion and high influx of people from the countryside.

Traffic chaos in downtown Luanda is not as bad as in some other African cities. The main problem of the city seems to be the lack of public toilets, which leads many street workers to relieve themselves in dark corners.

As a result, while walking along otherwise clean streets, I occasionally encountered unpleasant smells of urine or human waste. Trash is often left on areas of land between buildings, adding to the untidiness in the downtown.

My general perception of security was good. The main exception were the street boys, who can be quite persistent during the day, asking for money or food. Sometimes they become more aggressive at night. Still, once I calmly explained that I couldn’t help them, they usually left me alone.

Backpackers’ essential necessities were straightforward and easy to arrange. I bought a local SIM card at the Fortaleza shopping center. On some street corners, women offer black-market currency exchange, where I was able to get about 10% more kwanzas than at the banks. Although I tried to use my Visa credit card on several occasions during my trip, it was never accepted, as the local payment system isn’t compatible with international cards.

Luanda is much safer and calmer than it was a few years ago, and according to my opinion the city has plenty of exciting places to visit and variety of interesting things to do.

The Fortress of São Miguel, built in 1576, is a historic landmark overlooking the city and bay of Luanda. Once a colonial stronghold and slave trade hub, it now houses the National Museum of Military History and exhibits from Angola’s past.

It’s a good starting point to get a sense of the size and layout of the capital. I skipped the military exhibition and explored a small museum that presents the history of the colonial period through colorful tiles from when Angola was a Portuguese colony. A friendly guide explained the significance of the main motifs in about 15 minutes long tour. Although I didn’t understand at least half of her explanation in Portuguese, it was still informative and interesting.

Situated in the heart of the city, the Monumento O Soldado Desconhecido honors all of Angola’s martyrs. This remarkable highlight stands as a beautiful and enduring tribute to the country’s fallen heroes. The monument’s beautiful design and peaceful setting make it a place of remembrance and national pride. It stands out with its pure white color during the day and is beautifully illuminated at night.

The Catedral de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, built in the 1600s, is a Baroque-style cathedral with two bell towers, a simple altar, and a small courtyard, making it a peaceful historic landmark in the city. Although I visited it and passed by several times, it was never really busy. I always spend some time sitting around and watching the life: vendors selling ice cream, newspapers, fresh fruits and doughnuts; shoe cleaners polishing shoes for their customers and locals chatting on the sidewalks.

My next stop in downtown was the Iron Palace (Palácio de Ferro). It is a striking 19^th-century iron structure, believed to have been designed by Gustave Eiffel. Originally built in France and later assembled in Angola, serves today as a cultural center hosting art exhibitions and events. I was not able to see interior during a short, guided tour.

The Memorial Agostinho Neto in is an important monument honoring Angola’s first president, poet and independence leader. Known as The Rocket for its tall, rocket-shaped tower, it houses Neto’s tomb, a museum, exhibition halls, and cultural spaces surrounded by landscaped gardens.

I managed to enter the memorial even though it was closed for renovations. There wasn’t much to see inside, apart from the large statue of Agostinho Neto himself.

As I was walking around the area, which was under construction and partly closed off, a guard suddenly appeared out of nowhere and started questioning me about how I had managed to enter the memorial grounds.

“I asked the security guard at the gate for a permission to enter and he let me in!” was my simple answer.

“You shouldn’t walk around here! The area is closed for visitors.”

I was escorted back to the entrance and asked to leave the compound. It seemed that there had been some misunderstanding among the guards and I had been lucky to get a brief look at the monument.

The Mabunda Fish Market is the main seafood markets in Luanda and one of the most rewarding places to visit for me. After being closed for months due to poor sanitary conditions, it reopened in mid-2025 following major renovations. I took a taxi to reach the entrance to the market, just to realize that it was closed. I was disappointed to be able to see over 500 stalls with variety of seafood and fish, and I found myself wondering what to do next.

“My friend. Come here. I will show you around,” somebody starting to invite me.

“What do you mean? The market is closed. I don’t see any fishboats around either.”

“Look this way. There is an open, informal market with many vendors. I will show you around and advise you, where to buy fresh fish at good price.”

I explained to Julio that I just wanted to look around, with no intention of buying anything. He was fine with it and kindly offered to show me around the market.

During the next hour, we wandered through the narrow alleys crowded with vendors selling all kinds of seafood: variety of fish, squid, octopus and shellfish. Sellers bargained loudly with customers, and proudly showing off the freshness of their catch.

The most interesting part was meeting the women cooking dishes over open charcoal fires in improvised kitchens. They served me a generous plate of fish, vegetables, funge, beans, and sauce. Someone even brought me a chair and I sat down at the table. People passing by watched with curiosity as I enjoyed the delicious, freshly prepared food. It was for the first time in Angola that I tried funge, traditional African swallow made of cassava flour.

My experience of the informal side of Mabunda Fish Market was probably more interesting than visiting the modern, covered and organized part of the market would have been.

There are two main areas in Luanda that are popular for walking and outdoor activities: Marginal de Luanda, the modern waterfront promenade, and Luanda Island, known for its beaches, restaurants, and lively atmosphere.

Marginal de Luanda is a modern waterfront promenade along Luanda Bay, featuring open public spaces, scenic bay views and palm-lined cycling tracks. It’s a popular spot for walks, relaxation and social life, symbolizing the city’s growth and modernization.

A large I love Luanda sign adds to its charm, with a perfect backdrop of city skyscrapers on one side and palm trees along the sea on the other. As I walked a long part of the promenade on various occasions, I never found it really busy.

Luanda Island (Ilha de Luanda) is a narrow strip of land separating Luanda Bay from the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a popular spot for beaches, seafood restaurants and nightlife. Some parts are modern and lively, while others are still being developed.

I took a taxi to the northern end of the island, where I met a local artist creating impressive sand sculptures. After watching him work and giving him a small tip, I asked for a photo with his art in the background.

In August, the weather was too cool for swimming, and the strong afternoon wind made a jacket necessary. While I was relaxing on a sandy beach on the western side, a woman approached and offered me a meal of fish with plantain, cassava, and beans.

“I’ll prepare the fish for you in less than 30 minutes. Just choose the size and type!” she said.

Although I didn’t see any restaurants nearby and wasn’t sure what to expect, I decided to give it a try.

She returned in half an hour with a freshly cooked fish that turned out to be absolutely delicious. The perfect meal in an idyllic beach setting, observing the afternoon sun and locals in beach activities.

My last stop on Ilha de Luanda was the Miami Beach Bar and Restaurant, a stylish and upscale spot with its own private beach. The comfortable chairs offered a relaxing escape from the city’s chaos. Good music complements a wide variety of food and drinks at reasonable price. The place has a laid-back atmosphere, attracting both locals and expats.

While enjoying local wine and watching the sunset over the Atlantic, I met a few locals who shared insights into daily life in Angola. They spoke about how much Luanda has changed in recent years with new infrastructure, more entertainment options, new places to visit and many things to do.

Even though I don’t eat meat, my time in Angola was full of delicious food experiences. The restaurant scene in Luanda is vibrant, offering options for all tastes, budgets and culinary styles. I tried many dishes, from mopane worms, to funge, the ubiquitous staple served everywhere. One of the best culinary experience was the incredible variety of fish at a restaurant Bela Mar Casa Do Peixe.

While driving through the southern part of Ilha de Luanda, I noticed a long stretch of restaurants lining the road; from small, casual and improvised establishments to more organized and better presented restaurants. Waiters and chefs were standing outside, inviting passersby in. A friend had advised me to skip all of them and drive to the end, where Bela Mar Casa Do Peixe restaurant was located.

Unlike the mostly empty restaurants I passed at around 4:00pm, this one was nearly full. At the entrance, a waitress explained how the place worked:

“Pick the fish you want. We’ll grill or fry it within 30 to 45 minutes complement it with a side dish and bring it to your table.”

The selection of fish was overwhelming. Dozens of fresh fish of various types and sizes were displayed on ice, each labeled with its price. I chose a red snapper, big enough for two people.

The total came to only 8.00US$, including sides: cassava, beans, banana and sweet potato. I ordered a small bottle of Angolan red wine and enjoyed watching the lively atmosphere around me until the food was served.

The next day, I tried another local specialty: mopane worms. These caterpillars feed on mopane trees can be prepared in several ways, usually in a sauce. To be honest, I didn’t taste much from the worms themselves, and they were a bit tough for me, but it was fascinating to try something so unique.

Although it was a long drive on Macon bus from Luanda to Cacusa, it was comfortable. The road was full of potholes in some sections, but in general the trip was easier than I expected. I arrived at 2:00am, but fortunately there was still one room available in Hospedaria Cacuso, the only descent hotel in Cacuso downtown.

The next morning, I walked around Cacuso in search of a bus terminal, from where a rundown car took me to Calandula town. I was accompanied by a local Muslim girl and an influencer in the back seat. The communication in Spanish – Portuguese mix was enjoyable. For the last part of the trip to the waterfalls I hired a moto taxi.

The impressive Calandula Falls are among the largest in Africa by volume. At 105 meters high and 400 meters wide, they are twice the height of Niagara Falls.

One of the top laces to visit in Angola. Surrounded by lush vegetation, the falls were breathtaking, with some mist and rainbows at the bottom. There were hardly any visitors around, so I was able to enjoy the views almost by myself.

Local guides approached me and quoted outrageous prices for a short tour to show me around the upper river sections, the viewpoints, and the hike down to the base of the falls. After tough negotiations, we finally agreed on a price for the hike to the bottom of the waterfalls.

Walking downhill with my much younger guide was fast. Once we reached the river level, the path became muddy and slippery, so we had to slow down. Even though I was visiting the falls during the dry season, the air was thick with mist. The view from below was just as spectacular as from the top. The luxury boutique lodge Pousada Calandula on the other side of the river looked really tiny, compared to the enormous size of Calandula Falls.

Two hours later I was standing again at a bus terminal in Cacuso, waiting for a van to Capanda, which would drop me off at the intersection to Pungo Andongo. The main goal was to visit the Pedras Negras, a stunning collection of massive rock formations.

The whole trip went incredibly smoothly. As soon as I was dropped off at the intersection in Pungo Andongo, a moto-taxi approached me. We rode along a perfectly paved road for about 15 minutes before I met a local guide, who led me to the best viewpoint at the top of the massive hill.

Pungo Andongo served as the capital of the Kingdom of Ndongo during its decline. In 1671, the Portuguese laid siege to the city, capturing it and enslaving many of its residents, which ultimately led to the kingdom’s downfall.

The rocks of Pedras Negras are known for their unusual shapes and the legends surrounding them, with many believing they once served as a fortress for Queen Nzinga.

The powerful and influential leader used these volcanic formations as a natural fortress in her battle against Portuguese colonization.

The mystery behind how these striking black stone mountains formed is still unsolved. We walked up and down the rocks easily for another hour, observing rocks of animal shapes, variety of colours and sizes. He explained me about his family and life in the village that has been practically abandoned in the last years.

When I returned to the starting point, there was no sign of my moto-taxi. A policeman was washing his old and rundown car with the help of a few kids. I exchanged some words with him and asked if there was any chance, he could give me a lift back to the main road.

“No problem my friend. Let me finish washing the car and we go!”

As always, in Africa, there’s a solution for everything.