Cameroon

My Cameroon travel summary:

Visited: March 2024

Duration of visit: 15 days

Capital city: Yaoundé

Population: 29 million (2024)

Cameroon travel blog reading time: 16 minutes

• Challenging moto-taxi ride along untouched forest paths from Libongo to Membele.
• Observing gorillas and parrots during 3-day jungle trip in Lobeke National Park.
• Heat, chaos and Woman’s day celebration in Yaoundé.
• Visiting sultans’ palaces in the Northwest regions.
• Savoring the best fish in the country at Lombe Beach, surrounded by garbage.
• Finding a tranquil oasis of peace on a perfect Seme beach.
• Douala, the biggest city and economic center – better than expected.

Cameroon is often called Africa in miniature due to its exceptional geographical and cultural diversity. Its landscapes represent nearly every climatic zone, making it one of the world’s most biodiverse countries. The national football team, the Indomitable Lions, is probably Cameroon’s most internationally recognized symbol.

Cameroon, once a German colony, was divided into French and British territories, creating a diverse country with strong contrasts.

It is also one of the most ethnically diverse countries in the region. With over 280 languages, Cameroon’s official languages are French and English. Despite clear regional divisions, people often first ask: “Do you speak English or French?”

It is hard to believe that Cameroon has had the same president since 1982 despite ethnic, religious, and language tensions up to my visit in 2024. Paul Biya has served seven mandates, making him Africa’s second longest-serving leader after Robert Mugabe.

My Cameroon travel adventure was part of Central African trip in early 2024, which also included the Central African Republic, Gabon and São Tome and Principe.

I obtained an eVisa in advance, supported by an invitation letter arranged locally and certified in Yaoundé. At 180 USD, the Cameroonian visa is among the world’s most expensive.

I entered Cameroon from the Central African Republic by crossing the Kadei River in a small wooden pirogue. After exhausting bush-road travel and bribes requests in CAR, the warm welcome from the immigration officer in Libongo surprised me.

I initially planned to take a moto taxi to Membele, but a strong tropical rain forced me to change plans. We postponed the trip until early morning.

In the evening, I walked through the village center where small entrepreneurs offered BBQ, drinks, music, and games. I was surprised by the lack of fruit, but happy with fish and cassava. I reconnected to the internet after some days offline.

I could divide the ride from Libongo to the village of Membepe in three sections.

At 6:30am, the moto driver sped off on a perfect dirt road through dense jungle. There was no traffic, only monkeys jumping in the trees along the wide road.

In the second part, the road narrowed and became slippery with puddles slowing us down. We nearly fell several times, went off the road, and got stuck in a deep puddle that the driver underestimated. The motorbike made strange noises and the clutch stopped working properly.

We stopped at a checkpoint where international logging companies control traffic, asking for tools. The driver repaired the bike, and we continued at a decent speed as conditions improved again.

Five kilometers before the final destination, we were stopped by a police officer showing authority and disrespect. He checked all stamps in my passports and baggage, then accused the driver of lacking insurance and a valid license.

We both knew it was a case of bribery, but his expectations were higher than what the driver would accept.

“No problem, I will wait here for another vehicle,” I replied calmly.

After 15 minutes, a pickup car passed by, and I jumped into the cabin. The moto driver continued only after he paid the bribe.

It is hard to describe how remote Lobeke National Park is, but visitor numbers give an idea. 102 in 2023 and 7 visitors in early 2024.

Still, I didn’t have doubts that this spartan experience would be a great adventure.

I discussed my visit with the tourism director, park director, and logistics manager. They didn’t show deep knowledge of the park, but it was enough for me to decide on a three-day trip. I reduced the team to five members: two eco-guards, a guide, a cook, and a porter.

A driver, a chainsaw operator, and another guard would join for the jeep section to the trekking start point. Quite a team for a single visitor from Slovenia, but rules are rules.

With almost 2 hours delay, the team was ready next morning at 8:50am. We traveled in an ambulance Land Cruiser for an hour to the end of a dirt road.

We then walked six kilometers through dense tropical forest, hearing birds, an elephant, and monkeys. Near the Bai Petite Savane tower, a gorilla appeared, looked at me, and slowly walked into the forest.

Bai is a forest clearing with water, where animals stay longer and also get become habituated to human presence.

From the observation tower, I spotted a gorilla family of four moving through the open bai before they returned to the jungle. They were not habituated gorillas, but wild, unlike others I had seen before.

The second part of the walk, to Bai Ndjangui, was much harder and eight kilometers long. The older security guard was exhausted and could barely walk. At 3:45pm we reached a camp completely drained. I went straight to the observation deck, but only saw buffaloes in the distance.

The accommodation was very basic, with shallow-stream washing and pit toilets with or without walls. A tent was provided, but it was too hot to sleep inside. I used my mosquito net and slept on the wooden floor of a large hut. We went to bed early due to darkness and exhaustion.

I started day two observing a wildlife viewing forest clearing where mineral deposits prevent trees from growing. Animals and birds visit the bai to lick mineral-rich soil and bathe in mineral-rich water. At the same time, it can also be dangerous due to predators and poachers.

The amazing spectacle of thousands of African Green Pigeons and African Grey Parrots performing a bird dance was worth the effort of the previous day’s walk.

Vast flocks of birds take off from the trees with the crash of thousands of wings, wheeling and swooping through the sky. The sound above the observation tower was incredible as they flew in perfect coordination without collisions. This was the highlight of my Cameroon travel adventure so far.

On the way back, we spent another night at Petite Savane camp, where I visited the bai twice. I only saw a couple of sitatungas (antelopes) grazing in the high grass.

On the third day, we walked back to the parking lot when a two-meter yellow-orange snake crossed our path.

“Mamba, mamba!” the guide shouted, as it moved calmly into the forest.

An hour later, we spotted a gorilla in a distant tree, which warned us loudly before quickly descending.

In Lobeke NP, animal watching is usually brief, often too quick or too distant for a good photo. The basic infrastructure and pristine environment do not match nearby Dzanga Sangha National Park. Still, the raw wilderness made it one of the highlights of my Cameroon travel adventure.

Cameroon’s eastern region is the most remote and poorly connected, with long dirt-road journeys between towns and villages. I needed two days to travel to Yaoundé. There are not many things to do or exciting places to visit along the way.

“Be at the central junction at 7:30 a.m. and stop any passing vehicle,” was the advice to reach Yokaduma.

After eating a salty egg omelet with sardines and onion, I stood on the main road waiting for a ride.

A fully loaded post office Toyota pickup eventually stopped, and I joined three employees heading the same way.

“Yokaduma, oui, oui, sure, come in! We work for the post and go to Yokaduma and further to Bertoua!”

We spent eleven hours on rough bush roads, delivering and collecting mail in villages. They were continuously buying produce from roadside farmers. When we reached the first settlement with electricity, I invited them for drinks.

For me, it was a pleasure to finally drink something cold after a week of only warm drinks in the heat.

We reached Bertoua at 7:00pm. Too tired for a night bus to Yaoundé, I chose a short night in a basic hotel before the final paved road journey. Even the regional capital had no electricity, though generators lit the lively main street with vendors selling food and drinks.

I ordered grilled fish with bobolo (cassava sticks) in a rough, dark area surrounded by garbage. It was dark and hard to appreciate the vicinity. I was too tired to care about anything but tasteful fish.

The last part of the trip from Bertoua to Yaoundé was as comfortable as it could get in Cameroon. A climatized VIP van for 15 passengers left on time. We drove on a paved road with little traffic through villages with a higher standard of living. Bananas, avocados, papayas, palms, and other tropical plants lined both sides of the road. Much of the jungle has been cut, and deforestation appeared to be common.

I stayed in a nice apartment in Anguissa, near central Yaoundé, and began arranging visas for Equatorial Guinea and Gabon.

Plans changed quickly: Equatorial Guinea required a special invitation, and Gabon only issued visas for air arrivals due to a closed land border. I removed Equatorial Guinea from my plans, as I had already visited it years earlier. I bought a flight to Libreville and received the visa the next day.

Moving around the capital is a real hassle. Motorbikes in the metropolitan areas were suspended years ago, public buses don’t exist.

The only way to travel around Yaoundé is by shared yellow taxis. They pass by main intersections, negotiating with waiting passengers.

People stand along the street shouting destinations and the price they are willing to pay for a ride. The challenge is waiting in the right place and direction along the driver’s route.

At first, I kept standing at the wrong corner, facing the wrong direction, or heading toward a remote attraction in the unpopular districts. My only option was offering a higher price to attract drivers.

According to locals, Yaoundé is considered a pleasant, organized capital with a mild climate, especially compared to Douala. After two days there, however, I did not fall in love with Cameroon’s capital.

Beyond the complicated logistics, the city felt dirty, crowded, and hectic. Competition for survival seemed fierce, and I often witnessed tense verbal arguments that nearly turned into fights. Between both, men and women.

I met my online French teacher Audry, a resident of Yaoundé, who showed me around her hometown. I asked her to take me to the chaotic and crowded Marché Mokolo, where many vendors shouted le blanc or carefully watched my movements.

Taking photos was not welcome, but with a local companion, I was treated with more respect and spoke politely with sellers.

What seems like a chaotic mess of people shouting and selling goods is actually well organized into product sections.

From electrical appliances, clothes, shoes, kitchen utensils, to farming equipment, fruits and vegetables. You can buy anything, if you find it, and negotiate the right price.

Yaoundé’s main places to visit and landmarks are mostly concentrated in the downtown area. In the business district, Kennedy Avenue features a statue honoring U.S. President John F. Kennedy as the founder of the Peace Corps in Yaoundé. The Independence Monument commemorates Cameroon’s independence from France on 1 January 1960.

Our Lady of Victories Cathedral in the central post office rotunda offer stunning architecture and many seats. It is an oasis of peace where I retreated from the heat and street intensity.

The bilingual “J’aime mon pays le Cameroun – I love my country Cameroon” monument stands near key government buildings and the Hilton Hotel. The well-organized area of public offices hosts hundreds of employees in uniforms made of traditional African fabrics.

8^th of March is International women’s day that is celebrated on a big scale in Cameroon. I extended my stay in Yaoundé to watch thousands of women marching along the main avenue in front of the First Lady.

This year, green and red were chosen for the official dresses. Women from ministries, NGOs, schools, cooperatives, and communities wore custom outfits, accessories, and hats to represent their groups with pride and elegance. They were beautiful and highly respected on that day.

Only women in officially designed outfits could join the parade, marching around Rond-point Poste Centrale and passing before the First Lady.

The impressive event featured marching bands but attracted few spectators, likely due to the unbearable midday heat. Many probably preferred watching the live broadcast on television.

The colorful Women’s Day parade and meeting proud local women was one of the highlights of my Cameroon travel adventure.

After six freezing hours on a heavily air-conditioned bus, I arrived in Bafoussam late at night. Busy roads, moto-taxis, BBQ smoke, and drink vendors filled the streets. I settled into a simple hotel near the bus station, too tired to search for other options.

Cameroon’s northwest region is predominantly English-speaking, with Muslim influence and powerful local kings who strongly influence community development, culture, and prosperity.

Foumban Royal Palace was built in 1917 by famous king Sultan Njoya. He created a new language with its own alphabet and developed a religion combining Islam, Christianity, and traditional beliefs.

The current king was sitting in front of his palace receiving village visitors. They brought gifts for his sister’s wedding.

I observed an interesting ceremony with music, dance, and speeches. Great respect for the king was evident.

I took a tour of the palace museum on the second floor to better understand the kingdom’s history. It shows an interesting mix of European and African culture through photos by a German photographer, documenting life, architecture, and construction methods of the time.

One of the most beautiful Bamiléké chiefdoms is Bandjoun Chefferie, about ten kilometers south of Bafoussam. A short motorbike ride brought me to the main alley leading to the chief’s hut, with surrounding houses for the king’s wives and children.

The 17-meter-high bamboo structure, decorated with sculptures and supported by raffia ropes, features carved pillars symbolizing ancestors. A local guide showed me a small museum of objects reflecting history, myths, religion, and collective heritage.

The chefferie was very quiet, feeling more like a museum than an active royal residence.

From Bafoussam to Limbe is only approximately 300 kilometers, but my trip was pure pain and suffering.

I mistakenly bought a regular bus ticket instead of VIP, with no air conditioning and frequent police checkpoint stops.

After a one-hour delay, our bus left at 9:00am and was checked at most police stops. Some passengers without IDs delayed us while negotiating with authorities.

It was extremely hot, with speed bumps shaking the bus, while roadside vendors sold bread, bobolo, and meat skewers.

I reached Bekoko at 4:00pm and changed into a shared taxi toward Limbe’s suburbs. An even more rundown car brought me near my Airbnb accommodation on the outskirts of Limbe at 5:30pm. Another long, tiring day on my Cameroon travel adventure without any attractions or exiting things to do.

Limbe is often described as one of Cameroon’s most beautiful and charming destinations, located at the foothills of Mount Cameroon along the Atlantic coastline.

My first impression was disappointing, especially the neglected central beach covered in rubbish. Rundown buildings, extreme heat, and humidity made daytime activity difficult. The beach sand is dark brown or black, the water shallow and extremely warm.

I talked with fishermen, villagers, kids and visitors, who were all really friendly to me. I received many invitations for fishing trips, drinks, or requests to share a beer or lunch with locals. Nothing unusual in Africa. I moved around easily and cheaply by shared moto taxis. While men were generally slim, many women appeared among the heaviest I had seen during my whole Cameroon travel adventure.

Limbe area is predominantly English-speaking. British toast bread replaced the French baguette. Instead of eating sandwich for breakfast, I started my day with fruits and fish as early as 9:00am.

Fishing boats at Limbe beach bring in fresh fish sold at a nearby informal market. Restaurants and bars line the road and pier, where garbage piles up at low tide, though they still advertise the best view in town.

I bought fresh fish at the market. My local friend cleaned it, and a chef in a simple restaurant grilled it with cassava.

I found beaches northwest of Limbe covered in garbage and lined with decaying buildings, used mainly by fishermen. Swimming didn’t feel comfortable, as locals stayed on shore and I couldn’t protect my belongings.

On my last night, I stayed at a resort in Seme Beach, a large complex on a private beach and lagoon near Mt. Cameroon. It was quiet, with no guests at night and only hotel staff during my morning swim.

Douala, Cameroon’s economic hub and largest city, lacks charm. As the final stop of my Cameroon travel adventure, I arrived with no expectations and found it quite OK.

Douala’s main difference from Yaoundé is transport, as moto taxis are still the main means of transport here.

Logistically, Douala was much easier to manage than Yaoundé. In general, for my personal convenience, moto taxis were cheaper, faster, easier to use, and reliable for moving around Cameroon. Although Douala also lacks real landmarks, exciting things to do, or typical places to visit, I enjoyed walking through the historic part of the city.

Bonanjo is Douala’s administrative and business center, hosting government offices and major banks’ headquarters. The well-maintained district is pleasant to walk through, free of motorbikes, and features German and French colonial-era architecture.

The Palais de Justice and the Palace of the Kings Bell are the best examples, though the latter was in poor condition and closed during my visit.

After taking a break from the midday heat in the Cathedral of St Peter and Paul Bonadibong, I continued walking through commercial areas. I reached the Temple du Centenaire, built in 1947 to commemorate 100 years of the first Bethel Christian church in Douala. Although the green-roofed building stands out as the landmark, a simple nearby food stand caught my attention.

A kind English-speaking woman directed me to the church entrance while assisting construction workers at lunchtime. On the way back, I tasted one of the best meals of my Cameroon travel adventure.

Ndolé is a traditional dish made from bitter leaves, boiled to remove bitterness, then cooked with peanut paste, spices, and smoked fish or meat. It takes time and patience to make this dish, which was served with cassava, tapioca, and yam.

Simple, extremely tasteful and surrounded by surprised locals, I enjoyed an extra portion of ndolé.

I found La Nouvelle Liberté the most famous and emblematic artwork, as there are few landmarks and attractions in the city. The monumental sculpture, made from recycled metal parts, celebrates recycling, dismantling, and reassembly.

I admire this improvisation, where people find solutions even when engineers give up and extend the life of discarded objects. It is not only Cameroonian but a wider African practice.

My expectations before visiting were not high, and I did not plan such a long Cameroon travel journey.

I am happy to have explored wide areas of the country, from Lobéké National Park in the east to the Atlantic beaches around Limbe, the northwest region around Bafoussam, and the cities of Yaoundé and Douala.

Differences in language, climate, food, and lifestyle are large, but hospitality remains common. I was treated politely everywhere, though people felt less relaxed than in neighboring Central African Republic.

I hope Cameroon’s internal divisions can be peacefully resolved for the benefit of all, as tensions risk further escalation of violent conflicts and ongoing insecurity in the north.