Southern Angola

Visited: July 2025

Duration of visit: 9 days

Capital city: Luanda

Population: 38 million (2025)

Southern Angola travel blog reading time: 17 minutes

• Strolling through the quiet streets of Namibe and admiring its colonial-era architecture.
• Sitting atop a cliff gazing over Lagoa de Arcos.
• Watching the sunset from the Christ statue overlooking Lubango.
• Exploring lively markets frequented by local tribes.
• Spending a night in a traditional Mutua village near Oncocua.

After years of conflict and instability, Angola finally reopened to tourism in 2024, easing restrictions and normalizing prices. A year later, I flew out of Lisbon and began my journey of in its capital, Luanda. Because of the country’s vast size, I first explored the northern region and then took a flight to Namibe in the south, avoiding the long and exhausting bus journey.

In this article I describe the second part of my trip to Angola in 2025: Colinas Canyon and Lagoa dos Arcos, Quiet and relaxed Lubango, Sunset at the Christ the King Statue, Tundavala Gap and Serra da Leba, Mumuila tribes, remote Oncocua region, villages of Muhakahona tribe and Maior Imbondeiro de África.

More articles about Angola adventures are available here:

In order to avoid a long overland journey from Luanda to Moçâmedes (Namibe), I booked a flight with TAAG Airlines. When calling my taxi, I didn’t realize that Luanda has two airports. I accidentally set the final destination in Yango App to the airport where I landed. Quatro de Fevereiro International Airport is centrally located and only about 15 minutes from downtown.

As I realized my mistake, 5 minutes driving already, I tried to change the destination to Dr. António Agostinho Neto Airport.  This newer airport is about an hour drive from the city center and it was rush hour. To make things worse, my taxi driver couldn’t take me there because his electric car was running low on battery. As I began to feel nervous, he called a friend to meet us along the highway, to pick me up and continue the trip. Somehow, we didn’t manage to meet on the agreed location. At that point I had serious doubts that I would be able to catch my flight that day.

As we finally approached the new airport, I noticed it was modern and nearly empty. No lines, fast check-in, hardly any passengers and quick security scans helped to run through directly to the gate. I managed to board the plane just in time.

When I landed in Namibe (once called Moçâmedes), I was shocked by a climate completely different from the north. I’d been used to the warm, sunny weather of northern Angola. Here the skies were grey, the temperatures much lower and wind was blowing strong.

Namibe itself is a small coastal city, known for quiet streets, beautiful beaches and fresh seafood. Walking around was easy. The downtown reminded me a lot of Asmara, the capital of Eritrea; old colonial buildings, wide avenues, very little traffic and a calm pace of life.

Without any particular places to visit or things to do, the city has a few cultural gems as well. Places like Cine Place Namibe, Cine Teatro Namibe, and Cine Impala looked abandoned to me, but apparently, they still screen movies and live performances.

The Mercado Municipal is small, offering a variety of fruits and vegetables. Nevertheless, I didn’t find it very busy.

Because of the chilly weather, the Marginal de Namibe, the coastal promenade along the beachfront, was nearly deserted. Most cafes and restaurants were closed. I ended in Restaurante Liopa, where I warmed up with a cup of tea, before being treated with the most delicious funge I’ve had anywhere in Angola. Besides, the place was warm and the service attentive. The perfect end to a grey, windy afternoon.

The next day, I joined forces with a Polish couple to make a trip to Namibe desert. After hard negotiation, we hired a 4×4 vehicle with a driver and a guide. Although I was considering doing the trip by public transport and hiring moto taxies for certain sections, I was very happy to pay a little bit more in exchange of extra comfort.

Our first stop was not far from the main road. We searched for one of the longest-living plants on Earth. Welwitschia is capable to live thousands of years thanks to its deep taproot system and ability to absorb moisture from coastal fog. Two long, strap-like leaves can grow continuously throughout its life, becoming twisted over time.

As we continued driving toward Colinas Canyon, the scenery became increasingly picturesque, with rolling hills, dramatic rock formations and winding valleys. Our driver parked the car and we walked around the canyon, observing different structures and colors of the rock. Although the weather was still chilly and the sky grey, I enjoyed a lot. The nature has shaped these impressive rock towers over centuries, some reaching over 20 meters in height.

The fact that there were no other visitors nor tour groups around us, added to my positive impression about the popular landmark.

The next stop was Lagoa dos Arcos, a beautiful lagoon known for its clear waters and unique rock formations that resemble arches. Well, in the rainy season. During my visit, in the dry season, the lake dries up completely, leaving behind a desert-like basin.

I climbed to the rock next to O Arco, single formation shaped like a perfect arch, rising dramatically from the dry lagoon. Standing atop the rock was a truly peaceful experience. I felt completely alone with the vast landscape around me. Perfect time for some reflection, deep breathing and mindfulness.

Passing through the fishermen town of Tombua was nothing spectacular, comparing to previous sights. I was actually a little bit scared walking around the fish vendors on the coastline, since there were many flies and the voice of diseases spreading around was mentioned.

On the way back to Namibe, we drove past a motorbike rider who was lying flat on his bike. It looked like a practical way to cut through the wind, increase the speed, stay warm in the cold weather, and save a bit of fuel at the same time.

Nestled in the Serra da Leba mountains, Lubango felt different from anywhere I had been before in Angola. The city is much quieter than Luanda, with picturesque landscapes and some iconic landmarks around.

I settled down in an apartment on the outskirts of the city, close to the airport. Therefore, I was obliged to use moto taxi constantly, at day and night. The other alternative for municipal commuting, vans with fixed route, were much cheaper and useful as well.

Although Lubango is a pleasant city, I found the best attractions outside of the center. After visiting Igreja da Imaculada, Catedral de São José, and Mercado Municipal, I wanted to admire the sunset from the hill that rises above the city.

“How can I get to the Christ the King Statue?” I asked a few people nearby.

“It’s far. You need to take a taxi,” was the common reply.

“What about a moto-taxi?” I tried another alternative.

“No, it’s too far and dangerous. You need a car taxi.”

I wasn’t ready to pay for a taxi, since I knew there had to be some form of local public transport; at least for part of the way. I first took a van to the city center, where the driver directed me to another vehicle that was collecting passengers heading toward a southern suburb.

“I can take you to the top. You just pay me a little extra,” the driver offered kindly.

We quickly agreed on a small fare, and he dropped me off at the top of the cliff, where an excellent view of Lubango opened before me.

The Christ the King Statue, gleaming in its iconic white, was inspired by the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro. The 30-metre-high white marble statue was built in 1957.

Several visitors were posing around and I had to wait for some moments to take my photo. I walked over to the large Lubango sign, where a group of local women with their kids were posing. I offered to take a picture of them. Soon we were chatting cheerfully, exchanging impressions and stories of our countries.

After the sunset, darkness fell quickly, and I began walking along the road, hoping to find a ride back to the city. I started to hitchhike and what a surprise, a car stopped beside me. Inside was the same family I had helped earlier with their photos.

“Come with us! We’re going for dinner first, and then we’ll take you to your hotel!” Vilma said cheerfully and the kids were already making space for me.

I couldn’t resist such a kind invitation.

We had a long conversation while waiting for our food. I really appreciated the politeness and attentiveness of the children. Even though they were hungry, they didn’t argue, shout or misbehave. Their calm and respectful manners impressed me.

The main reason for a visit of Lubango are two natural attractions, 30-minutes driving outside of the city. Tundavala Gap is a dramatic cliff on the Benguela Plateau, which drops nearly 1,200 meters into the valley, offering breathtaking views of rolling hills and distant mountains. There are not many things to do there except stand on the edge of a precipice overlooking the valley over a kilometer below.

Serra da Leba is famous for its winding, serpentine roads, offering stunning mountain vistas and thrilling hairpin bends. In the 1970s it was conquered by nerve-wracking series of switchbacks on the Namibe-Lubango Road, ascending 1,845 meters in less than 30 kilometers. From the viewpoint, I watched the legendary winding road below, with vehicles slowly descending into the valley.

The southern part of Angola is full of different tribes who inhabit the mostly arid landscape stretching over Namibian border. I was able to explore relatively hard-to-reach areas around Lubango by local transport and motorcycle taxis, while for the longer journey south I hired a 4×4 vehicle and a driver.

The ride to the town of Chibia passed quickly in a small van. As soon as I got out, a group of motorbike riders approached me in a friendly way. When I explained that I wanted to visit a market where I could see women from the Mumuila tribe, they looked at me with surprise.

“Come with me. I’ll take you. It is half an hour’s ride. I know the way,” one of the drivers said confidently.

But it seemed it wasn’t his turn, so he explained my route to his colleague. Patrick nodded to me, and I settled comfortably onto the back seat of his shiny motorbike.

We arrived at the remote village of Mukuma after half an hour of riding along a dirt track. I was happy to travel by a motorbike; getting there by car would have been more difficult. There is usually a large market there, but that day it was rather empty. Still, I quickly came across a few women from the Mumuila tribe.

I suggested that they take me to their home and show me where they live. I would photograph them and offer them monetary support. That’s exactly what we did. Although along the way many other girls, dressed in ordinary clothes, joined us.

Mumuila women are known for their distinctive hairstyles and how they show marital status. They make thick dreadlocks using a red mixture of mud, oil, butter, plants and sometimes dung. They often decorate them with shells, beads and dried food. Their necklaces also indicate age and status: young girls wear bright red necklaces, while older girls wear yellow ones. They never take off the necklaces, even while sleeping.

Amid much laughter and talking, most of which I didn’t understand, we finally agreed to take photos in two groups. The older women, decorated with necklaces and typical hairstyle, made up one group. The other group consisted of young women in Western clothes, who sang, danced and laughed a lot.

When I returned to the market, I had the chance to taste two local drinks. Macau is made from corn, cooked with plenty of water, and left to ferment for three to five hours. Because it isn’t very strong, it’s sold in larger quantities, in barrels.

A much stronger alcoholic drink is canhome. It is also fermented, traditionally made from corn, though there are versions with rice, pineapple and roots. The seller kept it in a canister and served it to me in an old fish tin. Not exactly tasty, but it burned pleasantly as it went down my throat.

The next day, I visited the market in Camuvio. The trip there was especially exciting on a so-called Keweseki tricycle. We were tossed back and forth the whole time, dust covering every pore of our eyes and mouths. While I was holding tightly onto the metal frame, I tried to catch the goods that my young companions were bringing to the market: cigarettes, soft drinks and cans of oil.

At the market, I met older women from the Mumuila tribe. They were talking loudly in a local bar, inviting me to try canhome and macau. This time I declined drinking due to the very poor hygienic conditions.

The Oncocua region in southern Angola is home to several traditional tribes, including the Muhakahona, Muila (Mumuila), Mutua and Himba. These groups are known for their distinctive hairstyles, body adornments, and particular ornaments that define the status and age of women.

Since I was alone, I had to negotiate hard to agree on a decent price to hire a vehicle with a driver who would be knowledgeable about the area and who could also provide me camping gear. After almost giving up, I agreed on accepting conditions with José.

We started early in the morning from Lubango to reach Cahama at midday. Our first stop was a local restaurant for lunch. It took almost two hours until the food was ready. Although the food was delicious, we didn’t expect to lose so much time, since the worst part of the driving on a dirt road was still in front of us.

Upon arrival to Oncocua, I registered with local police. We found a young boy from the village who agreed to be our guide. He led us along winding trails to his community nearby, where we planned to meet one of the local tribes – Mutua.

During a short conversation with a chief of the village, he explained me the rules:

“The price to visit our village for groups is 50,000 kwanzas (50 US$). If you are alone, the price is 20,000 kwanzas. For photographing, you talk to the ladies and pay 3,000 kwanzas for each photo!”

“Oh, that’s too much for me. I’m alone. One person. We need to make a better deal,” I said in surprise.

He looked at me with disbelief. It seemed that no one has ever questioned his standard fees.

“Look chief. I am alone and I came from far!”

“I suggest paying 10,000 kwanzas as the entrance fee, and another 10,000 kwanzas for all the photos I’ll take. I’d like to photograph many women, and it is impossible to negotiate with each of them separately.”

Over the next five minutes both of us were defending our positions. He needed some time to think about it and then slowly answered:

“I like you Mr.Rok! I accept your proposal. Would you like to stay in our village tonight?”

We shook hands, and the celebration began.

The girls started to dance, sing, laugh, smile and joke with each other. As the sun began to set, I tried to capture the last photos and videos.

The Himba and Mutua are ancient tribes from southern Angola and northern Namibia. Although they look very similar to me, they live and look different. As with many of Angola’s tribes, it is the women who preserve traditional dress more faithfully than the men.

The Himba are semi-nomadic cattle herders. They are known for their red skin and hair, made from a red ochre mix and for wearing lots of fancy jewelry and leather clothes. This mix makes them look red and keeps their skin protected. Their elaborate hairstyles reflect age and marital status. At puberty, girls receive a leather crown called an erembe.

On the other hand, the Mutua have a simpler life as small farmers and herders. They use ash or mud instead of ochre and do not wear as many jewels.

I pitched my tent in the village compound while José prepared dinner on charcoal. It was actually my idea to cook a simple soup with instant noodles and vegetables. I chose the largest pot on purpose. I was able to share most of the soup with the villagers. They had probably never tasted anything like my improvised soup before, but they seemed to enjoy it. The cookies, bread and watermelon I had brought for them were also well received.

When night fell, the chief lit a large fire. The men sat around it, gazing into the flames, smoking and chatting sporadically. The women gathered nearby in the darkness, singing, dancing, laughing and having fun together. The joyful sounds carried on late into the night. When I was finally tired, I retreated into my tent and fell asleep, enjoying the rhythmic singing of the Mutua women. One of my highlights in Angola.

The next morning, I visited the surrounding villages inhabited by members of the Muhakahona people, the most numerous tribe around Oncocua. Like the Himba and Mutua, they follow a cattle and goat-herding tradition, but also practice agriculture, occupying a lower position in the social hierarchy. They are also known as the Black Himba.

In a small settlement of six huts surrounded by wooden sticks, I came across a few girls, a man and some children. At first, they were very shy, but later they began talking with my driver. In their simple environment, I was most fascinated by the Muhakahona women’s helmet-shaped headdresses. They are made of manure, fat, herbs, leather and brightly colored beads. Some of their lower teeth are removed as a mark of beauty.

Muhakahona men are reputable traditional doctors, while women are valued as excellent artisans. They make bracelets and anklets from cow horns, decorated with geometric patterns or animal shapes. One of the girls wore bracelets on her legs, made from plastic water tube painted with red patterns.

Finally, I stopped by the local market in Oncocua. Compared to the previous day, it was surprisingly quiet. I realized that each market has its main days. Usually two or three times a week people from surroundings and distant villages gather to trade, mingle, drink and chat. On the other days, the market is much calmer.

I spotted a group of young girls selling canhone. With the help of translators, we started a simple conversation. I tasted their homemade drink and invited some local men to join us, sharing canhone and macau.

Before crossing the border into Namibia at Calueque, I also visited the unremarkable town of Ondjiva and the Maior Imbondeiro de África. The largest baobab tree in Africa is located on the outskirts of Xangono. Later, I learned that this baobab is actually the second largest in Africa, after the Sagole Baobab in South Africa.

The long ride on a moto-taxi over soft, sandy tracks was at times quite dangerous. I was lucky that the driver was well-skilled, and there was hardly any traffic in the remote villages we passed through. This baobab tree is a sacred and multifunctional tree. The center of rituals, medicine and cultural practices. Its shade protects important rites like circumcision and childbirth. People believe that if a chief is buried there, he can return and inspire his successors.

All parts part of the tree (roots, trunk, leaves, and fruits) are used. Blooming only once a year at night, a baobab can live up to 3,000 years, making it one of the longest-living trees in the world.

Instead of crossing the border into Namibia at Santa Clara, I decided to take the route through Caleque. It turned out to be a much more demanding journey. First, I waited for hours for a van to fill up, and later the rough bush road forced me to stop for the night before reaching the border.

I was invited to a local shack where food was served, people drank beer, and listened to loud music. It seemed that everyone knew each other, and after a few beers, I knew everyone too. I paid only 2 US$ for a fish and a few more bucks for the drinks. I expressed my gratitude by buying beers for my new friends. The last incredible story from incredible Angola.