Benin

Visited: January 2013

Duration of visit: 5 days

Capital city: Porto-Novo (Cotonou)

Population: 10 million (2013)

Estimated reading time: 7 minutes

• Benin is the birthplace of voodoo – combining elements of Roman Catholic ritual with traditional African magical and religious rites, characterized by sorcery and spirit possession.
• Analyzing notable historical development of the country, emerging out of Marxist past and turning to a democratic republic with open market economy.
• Rundown city Cotonou; motorcycles taxis, impoverished buildings, informal street sellers and basic eateries.
• Ganvié – a village built on wooden stilts 2 meters above water level, offering safe shelter from slaves’ traders.

My trip to Benin was part of 3 weeks journey around Togo, Benin and Niger during the European winter of 2013. Especially Togo and Benin have a lot in common – French language, narrow and long form of the country that is facing Gulf of Guinea on the south, transport on bush taxies and moto-taxis around big cities.

Benin is the birthplace of the voodoo religion and home to the former Dahomey Kingdom from the beginning of 17^th century to the end of 19^th century.

Vodun is the official religion of the country and an important part of the life of ordinary Beninese.

The Kingdom of Dahomey was a highly militaristic kingdom that developed Benin’s coast into the largest center of the slave trade in Africa. The kings of Dahomey sold their war captives into transatlantic slavery or killed them ritually in a ceremony known as the Annual Customs.

The area was named the Slave Coast because of a flourishing slave trade until 1885, when the last slave ship departed the modern Benin Republic for Brazil, which had yet to abolish slavery.

During the reign of Major Mathieu Kérékou, in the 1970s and 1980s, the country was renamed into today’s Benin and developed according to the guidelines of Marxist teachings as a one-party Socialist state. With the (financial) help of France, it later moved to a multiparty republic with a market economy. Today, Benin remains an extremely poor country with lack of basic infrastructure, suffering from poverty and corruption.

The official capital is Porto-Novo, but Cotonou is Benin’s largest city, its chief port, and its de facto administrative capital. Porto-Novo hosts several cultural festivals, showcasing the rich traditions and artistic expressions of the local communities. There were none on the schedule during my visit. Due to the lack of attractions, I therefore left Porto-Novo off my list and did not visit it.

Cotonou could be a beautiful city with nice sandy beaches a few kilometers from downtown, but it is rather a conglomerate of zemidijans, run-down buildings, informal street sellers and basic eateries.

Zemidjans are motorcycles that carry one to two passengers for short distances in towns.

Riding around with these moto – taxis is the most exciting and cheapest way to explore the capital city, but it can also be the most dangerous adventure in case something goes wrong.

Helmet has not been implemented as a part of protection equipment yet, street rules give priority to the more skilled, faster and stronger vehicles. I used zemidjans, whenever they were available and all drivers were accommodating, friendly and proud to transport le blanc – a foreigner.

There are not many architectural landmarks, historical buildings, museums or other attractions to be found in Cotonou. I used my time mostly to hang around, observing locals, stroll around colorful markets and chatting to random people passing by.

Sitting on a comfortable chair in front of Hotel le Crillon, enjoying idleness, watching motorcyclists passing by and slothful locals were my regular afternoon activities. Since French is the official language, communication in English is not easy. I improved my French skills and was able to get by with basic expressions about accommodation, food and prices at the end of this trip.

Marche de Dantokpa is the grand central market, with a wide offer of food, electronics, clothes, fruits and vegetables to more specific items. It is the largest open-air market in West Africa, covering over 20 hectares, where 35,000 merchants seek buyers´ attention. A huge mix of genres and commercial activities ranging from retail to wholesale, mixing all the types of agricultural and manufactured products, textiles, jewelry, cosmetics, etc.

For a country or region where formal commerce is rare, impractical and expensive, informal trade is the most important catalyst of economical movements. Chaotic organization of labyrinthine lanes has its rules and the system of vendors or micro locations has been established based on demand and supply.

The most captivating part is the fetish market section, where exotic products, such as monkey testicles or love fetishes are offered.

Quidah was one of the most active slave trading ports in all of Africa; these days, it is famous for voodoo ceremonies.

Over the course of two centuries, Quidah alone exported more than one million Africans before closing its trade in the 1860s.

A 4km Route des Esclaves on which slaves were taken to the ships, is lined with monuments and leads to the Door of No Return, a memorial arch on the waterfront. Fetishes, monuments and other voodoo symbols are exhibited along the route.

The extraordinary Voodoo Festival, which takes place in Quidah every year on 10^th of January, is the celebration of singing, drinking, ceremonies and special voodoo activities that attract thousands of devotees.

My next stop, Ganvié, is a village built on wooden stilts, 2 meters above water level: houses, hotels and restaurants. Many of 25,000 people live from fishing and tourism. Most of non-fishing pirogues are operated by women, who sell spices, fruits and other products at markets.

The village was built in the middle of the Lake Nokoué 400 years ago and its unique history started in the era of slavery.

People of the local Tofinu tribe were desperate to escape from the soldiers of Fon and Dahomey kingdoms in the 18^th century, who captured people and sold them to Portuguese traders.

They felt secure in this remote and protected settlement, where access could be easily supervised.

The ancestors of today’s residents fled to the lake which was feared by the soldiers, who believed a terrible demon lived under its surface. Knowing this, the tribe chose to build their homes on stilts in the middle of the water.

Ganvi means we survived in the local language. Despite the original threat gone long ago, the tradition, village and lifestyle on canals have not changed much to these days. I cannot imagine living myself this way, but half a day touring, cruising, observing and chatting with local community was inspiring.

Beside Cotonou and surrounding areas, I also stopped in the northern part of the country, when driving toward Niger – the next country to visit in the region. Nothing really remarkable to write about this area, beside the fact that people try to survive with any activity that would bring an income; mostly with farming, commerce, transport service or working in the government.

The birthplace of voodoo and the main departure point for slaves are the most compelling historical facts, reflected in everyday life, that creates a mix of chaotic and vibrant experience, so typical for any Western African country or wider.

In theory, Benin has so many additional things to offer: from spectacular countryside to exotic beaches and national parks full of wildlife. In practice is not easy, nor cheap to access these attractions.

I enjoyed the simplicity, chaos of local markets and hospitality of Benin people, without any abundance of tourist attractions.