The Gambia

Visited: December 2008

Duration of visit: 4 days

Capital city: Banjul

Population: 1.6 million (2008)

Estimated reading time: 7 minutes

• Invitation to taste homemade traditional Gambian dish domoda.
• Kind and relatively unobtrusive local people.
• The Gambia poses only 80 kilometers of coastline but still houses some of the best sandy beaches in Africa.
• Sharing sept place – bush taxi with 13 passengers and a driver between border checkpoints of Gambia and Senegal.

There are also small countries in Africa and The Gambia is one of them. The smallest country in African mainland, encompassing an area of only 11,300 square kilometers and a population of approximately 1.6 million residents. The Gambia is entirely bordered by Senegal and is distinguished by its extreme narrowness, measuring less than 45 kilometers at its widest point.

In the past, The Gambia served as a central point for the slave trade; today, however, most of its citizens are engaged in agriculture and fishing. The country’s foreign revenue is significantly influenced by tourism, which has changed its identity and positioned it as an appealing destination for Europeans looking for economical beach retreats, particularly during the cold winter season in Europe.

In Europe, The Gambia is considered an all year-round tourist destination, with paradise beaches, exclusive bars, restaurants and sun loungers that are never overcrowded, luxury hotels and English-speaking locals. The beaches here are indeed much more beautiful than those seen so far on this trip along West Africa, but they are still far less attractive than those in Asia or the Caribbean.

The atmosphere is further enriched by the beach boys – young, appealing black youths – who actively seek the attention of white tourists, offering their company day and night.

Considering the fact that the population is Muslim, similar services for men are quite limited and if they actually exist, they are significantly less noticeable.

Despite its Muslim identity, The Gambia is considered a liberal nation, where alcohol is commonly available, and the inhabitants even engage in brewing their own beer.

The Gambia is the first English-speaking country on my trip in West Africa, so communication is much easier. Most of the locals are happy to greet you and, at the same time can be quite upset if you do not answer to them. Some may be annoying, but when you explain that you are not interested in marijuana, taxi, hotel or private trips, they calm down and answer with a smile.

One morning, while strolling along the beach, I encountered a fruit vendor. We engaged in a transaction, during which I purchased a papaya. Following this, the friendly seller extended an invitation for lunch at her residence. She mentioned that the day’s sales had been poor, with a noticeable decline in tourists and minimal other customers. Haddy told me beforehand that it was against the rules for her to accept payment for the meal, and she assured me that I was welcome to remain in her house as long as I wished after lunch.

In a very simple home without electricity and running water, I observed how a large family actually lives, thinks, eats and struggles from day to day. It is quite striking to discover that these people don’t know, what they’re going to eat the next day.

The magic phrase “if we have money“ is very common in conversation … “If we have money, we eat fish, we drink tea, we go to the doctor, etc. If not, we don’t.“

While it is evident that they do not actively seek employment or stable jobs, especially among the men, they are genuinely exceptionally kind. The food was basic, yet I was struck by the depth of their poverty and the simplicity of their way of life.

The next day, my plan was to continue the journey, but I went back to the beach instead. This time. I didn’t buy papaya, but I invited Haddy to the market, where I acquired fish and vegetables. The day before, she explained to me about traditional Gambian dish based on fish and vegetables. Thus, I aimed to gather the necessary ingredients, after which it would be her turn to prepare domoda in her kitchen.

Domoda is a delicious peanut stew consisting of whatever vegetable happens to be available, typically pumpkin or sweet potatoes, and a saucy base. Meat or fish can be added, if there is enough money to buy it. It is usually served over rice, but can also be enjoyed with fou-fou – a side dish, made of cassava.

Haddy’s family hadn’t been able to afford gourmet lunch for several months. Domoda was not as good as the one in the restaurant, but I will never forget the hospitality at Haddy’s home. Upon leaving, I slipped some cash into her hands and proceeded to enjoy a few more splendid days in The Gambia.

A few words about bush taxis. So-called sept place are old Peugeot 505 caravans, manufactured decades ago to handle 7 passengers besides the driver. One in the front, three in the second row and three in the back row.

In West Africa they are used as shared taxis on long-distance trips. They leave when they’re full, never on schedule, notoriously overloaded and overcrowded, and very unpredictable about time of arrival to the final destination. Conditions vary by country, driver or police penalties, but everywhere bush taxis are like miracles wandering on four wheels.

Broken windshields, no side mirrors attached, doors that don’t open from inside or outside, are just some minor deficiencies. I actually haven’t got many issues with the car engines braking down and, beside flat tires, we usually arrived quite straight forward to the final destinations.

There is one simple fact that is certain for a sept place in all the countries I visited: I have never ridden in a sept place with only 6 other passengers. There were always more, many more actually.

The record was broken on the border between The Gambia and Senegal, where I was squeezed with 14 other passengers in the same vehicle. 3 passengers plus a driver in front, 4 in second row, 3 in third row and 4 more people on the roof.

There was a police checkpoint on both sides of the border, but no one mentioned that the car was overloaded with human cargo. Other passengers were laughing and joking about the white guy who was counting how many more people can be squeezed in. I was strategically sitting in the first row, next to the door with open window.

For the first time on my trip in West Africa, my stomach started to turn around after a simple lunch at a local restaurant. There were no alternatives for food. I could eat in a small restaurant or not eat at all. A difficult choice.

I found myself in a secluded village, situated far from any healthcare facility or pharmacy.  Following the recommendations of local friend, I utilized cold Sprite as a remedy, which alleviated my discomfort within just 24 hours. Drinking a fizzy drink instead of buying medicine or visiting a doctor many kilometers and various dollars too far away, is often the only option for managing stomach issues.

The smallest country on African mainland with a unique shape and surrounded by Senegal, is much more attractive to visit than I would have assumed according to its size and location. Developed tourist infrastructure and English language help to interfere with local people, who understand very well what European visitors want.

It is not very obvious how poor Gambians actually are until you enter into one of their houses and observe poverty, hidden behind the bare walls of simple homes. Well-ironed school uniforms, colorful African clothes and perfectly-groomed women’ hairstyle, don’t reflect the reality.

People are poor, highly spiritual, warm and welcoming among various ethnic groups and tribes, without any record of tribal conflict in the country.

Due to the warmth and friendliness of its inhabitants, The Gambia has rightfully earned the nickname the smiling coast of Africa.