Sierra Leone

Visited: November 2022

Duration of visit: 7 days

Capital city: Freetown

Population: 8.14 million (2022)

Estimated reading time: 15 minutes

• Curious border procedure with so many offices and unnecessary checkpoints that even local people had problems to understand what was going on.
• Hungry and tired after a long ride from Monrovia, I stopped in Potoru. There were no decent restaurants, so I opted for a local, exotic dish Pemahun, later brutally rejected by my stomach.
• Exploring Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary, where many primates, birds, pygmy hippos and wild pigs live in isolated and protected environment.
• Stopping over in the second biggest city Bo, with mix of ethnic groups, religions and an important Njala University.
• The capital of Sierra Leone – Freetown – with majestic beaches, green mountains, centrally located Cotton tree, nightclubs and bars along the beach.

Sierra Leone was the last country on my overland trip from Ivory Coast through Liberia. In November 2022 the weather was perfect: dry and warm. I was travelling overland, using a mix of public transport and private moto taxi.

Sierra Leone derived its name from Portuguese name Serra Leao, which means Lion Mountain Range or Roaring mountains. The country was founded by the British Crown in two phases:

• At the beginning of 19^th century for the returning of African slaves after abolition of slavery in the US (similar as Liberia).
• At the end of 19^th century as an inland protectorate.

The recent history of the country is full of disasters, conflicts, wars and bad news, which have lead to the current status and living conditions. It could have been a paradise on earth, but most of Sierra Leone population has been struggling to survive, satisfying basic needs about water, food, fire to cook and education or medical attention with difficulties.

As an independent country, the performance of Sierra Leone has been limited due to constant transformations, crises, political turmoil and civil war from 1991 to 2002. In 1992 a group of young army soldiers, with a big help of revolutionary leader Charles Taylor from neighboring Liberia, staged a military coup that sent president Momoh into exile in Guinea, while only 25-years old Captain Valentine Strasser was positioned as the chairman and Head of State of the country.

In 2014, an Ebola virus epidemic in Sierra Leone widely affected the country, forcing to declare a state of emergency. By the end of 2014, there were nearly 3,000 deaths and about 10,000 cases of the disease.

Sierra Leone is famous for its diamonds, bauxite, titanium, gold and rutile, which are all exploited on a large scale. However, the positive economic impact is still to be seen. Sierra Leone is well-known around the world for its blood diamonds or war diamonds which were mined and sold for weapons during the country’s violent civil war from 1991 to 2002.

The river Mano separates Liberia and Sierra Leone. At the last checkpoint on the Liberian site, the official was extremely friendly, advising to change money in her small office, avoiding hassle and bustle on the street.

I walked across the bridge and entered Sierra Leone. All fine and smooth in midday sunshine. From here on, it would have been much easier if there were not so many offices in a deteriorated building, where every single official wanted to be important.

In the first office, a lady wrote my data in a notebook and stamped my passport, while his friend on the other side of the table was giving her instructions and showing me videos from Tik Tok. “Famous Sierra Leone singer, good music, from Nigera. Do you know this group from Congo?”, I was happy to get the stamp in my passport and move on.

In the second office, a kind policeman checked my passport and wished me good luck. The third office was the most rundown and neglected: “Where are you from my friend?”, asked me a strong guy. “I am from Slovenia.”, I replied expecting more formal interrogation. “Welcome to Sierra Leone!”.

Sanitary inspection was stricter. There were two people entering the country, offering money instead of yellow fever certificate. The government official seemed to be serious about vaccination requirements and didn’t want to accept money.

My yellow fever certificate was in order and I was set as a white man example for being properly prepared to enter Sierra Leone. The next office was dedicated to customs control, where two guys wanted to know what I was carrying in my bag. “Only personal items, clothes and flip flops.”, was my standard answer. No further examination. The last office was occupied by two young clerks who registered me again, checked the passport and let me go quickly.

My first destination in Sierra Leone was Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary, a wildlife sanctuary and community-led tourism site, where I would spend two nights observing wildlife in tropical forest.

The road to Potoru was paved and smooth; I quickly made a deal with a taxi driver to take me there. It was already 2:30pm, I was too hungry to continue on a motorbike to reach the park. There were hardly any options to eat in Potoru. Most of the simple street eateries were already closing down, therefore I ended in a very basic food stall ordering the only available dish.

Traditional local dish – Pemahun – rice with cooked sweet potato leaves, palm oil and a piece of dry fish didn’t look appealing and I knew the possibilities of negative consequences for my stomach in the following days were extremely high. The flavor was good, the price was as little as possible at 0.75 USD$. The aftereffect was visible during my whole stay on Tiwi Island for the next two days. I would be visiting toilets on a regular bases for 16 times in the next 48 hours.

I continued driving the last part to the river by bike on a reinforced dirt road. Poor villages with basic infrastructure, where children were screaming and saluting me while we were driving as crazy to win a race. The last stop was in a small square surrounded by simple buildings and huts from where a walking path leads to the dock.

There was no boat waiting to me, but according to some people hanging around, it would eventually pass by when returning from upriver trip. I laid down, concentrating to control the first signs of diarrhea and waited for an hour until a motorboat picked me up and took me to the other side of the river. My first stop, even before reaching the camp, were the toilets.

The island of Tiwi is home to a population of pygmy hippopotami, over 135 different species of birds and to one of the highest concentrations and diversity of primates in the world. 11 different species, including the rare and endangered Diana Monkey, live on the island.

I settled down in a basic bungalow for two nights. There was a group of other visitors during the first night, whereas for the second night I was the only visitor on the island and had a profound conversation with the camp manager.

During a long walk, which unfortunately started late, I spotted two types of monkeys (colobus monkeys and red monkeys), who were jumping on the trees high above me.

Afternoon resting in the camp turned out to be the best activity – hidden in my bungalow and observing monkeys that passed by, hanging and jumping off the branches. They are very skillful, quick and afraid of humans. I didn’t even try to take photos, since my camera couldn’t record good details due to the distance and speed of primates.

The next morning, I was taken along the river on a canoe. Not much animals were seen, the river level was too high to spot pygmy hippopotamus, which in wet season spend more time walking around the island and apparently approach the river only at night or hide completely in deep waters. My guide was paddling downstream and when moving upstream a long palm tree stick was used to push away from the riverbed.

My next stop was the second largest urban center in Sierra Leone – Bo Town. I didn’t make any reservation for a hotel in advance, hoping that a local motor taxi will take me to a decent hotel. After visiting the three most famous hotels that were spread around on a sizeable distance, I realized there was a kind of conference going on in Bo, therefore most hotels were full.

We continued to search around for 45 minutes, but the situation with a decent accommodation still seemed hopeless. There were only rooms available in an ugly hotel, where I didn’t want to stay.

Finally, after visiting 8 or 9 different hotels, I found an adequate one for a reasonable price. I was tired and hungry enough to look for a really good Lebanese restaurant in downtown, where hummus and fish made my day.

In a busy central area within a few blocks, predominantly Muslim traders sell and buy any goods needed for life. Fruits and vegetable markets were poorly stocked and the prices (especially for vegetables and pineapples) were high. No wonder why only basic cassava or potato leaves are used to accompany rice in traditional daily diet of most people. Starting with breakfast, stews are a fundamental part of local cuisine.

Pemahun is a typical inexpensive breakfast: steamed sweat potato leaves, small African eggplant, palm oil, peppers to make it spicy and spices that are often replaced by Maggie cube, topped over white rice. I decided to skip it after bad experience a few days ago. Baguette bred with eggs and mayonnaise was my favorite choice.

Rice makes up such a significant part of the diet in Sierra Leone that it is common for locals to note: “If I haven’t eaten rice today, then I haven’t eaten at all!”

Fufu and cassava leaf stew are the next popular options, even though I haven’t seen much of this dough-like food, made of cassava, yams or plantains as in some other West African countries. Beside cassava leaves, meat (usually beef or chicken), fish or crab can be added to supplement the food in proteins.

The far most popular ingredients sold on the markets is dry fish. In Bo’s market I noticed many different species of fish, predominantly from the sea. Fresh fish is less present and more expensive.

The main road from Bo to Freetown was perfect, traffic almost non-existing and the big bus was comfortable. As usual, the A/C didn’t work properly, so the air was suffocating.  The last part of the trip, when we were cruising around narrow streets of central Freetown, were the most picturesque part of my trip in the whole country.

Scenes of hundreds of sellers on the sidewalks, people moving the goods around, negotiation and walking in impassable areas, were projected in front of my eyes like in a movie.

The bus stopped for a few minutes in heavy traffic, moved a bit and repeated the routine.

The city of Freetown was founded by abolitionist Lieutenant John Clarkson in 1792, as a settlement for freed African American, Afro-Caribbean and Liberated African slaves. Their descendants are known as the Creole people.

One of the most historic and well-known symbols of Freetown is the Cotton Tree. It’s believed that in 1792 a group of ex-slaves from America, who had fought with the British in the War of Independence, settled in Freetown and gathered around the giant cotton tree to pray for gaining their freedom.

The Cotton Tree is not only the oldest such tree in Freetown but experts also believe that it may be the world’s oldest one.

Modern-day citizens of Sierra Leone still routinely make offerings and pray to their ancestors under the Cotton Tree. Many handicapped people gather in the area, where a small, but interesting Sierra Leone National Museum is located.

A local guide took me through the exhibition, explaining about the importance of guerrilla leader Bai Bureh who, in 1898, started a war against the British. Various basic, but well-tuned instruments made of solid wood still sound fantastic, while masks and clothes for local dancing and rituals are exhibited in the main room.

Big market in the center of the city is a two-story building dedicated to crafts stalls selling all kind of typical products: well elaborated wooden masks, baskets, necklaces and jewelry in general, big wooden statues and chairs, textiles, which is usually used for women`s traditional clothes. Sellers are calm, showing their products in a polite way.

 It is normal that when I asked for a price, they offered me a certain value and expected a counter offer. It doesn’t matter how low my offer was.

What they couldn’t understand was not expressing my position or interest in buying, after asking for a price. “It is business. You must say your price!”, were usual answers, expecting to make a deal with the only foreigner around. I bought a wonderful wooden mask of solid wood to add to the collection of regional crafts.

An artisanal fishing harbor is just next to the main road that passes through Aberdeen. It was quiet when I arrived there for the first time at around midday. Almost too late, but still on time to see some of the picturesque fishing boats.

I calmly walked between the stalls, observing different types of fish, caught in the nets of tired fishermen, who had already finished selling for the day. “Come tomorrow morning to see the action! Around 9 o’clock boats start returning with the catch of the day!“, a young guy invited me.

I purchased two fish, convinced an overweight saleswoman to clean the bones and pack the filets ready to cook in a plastic bag. In a house kitchen of my guesthouse I prepared a delicious lunch for me and a colleague.

The next morning, I took a moto taxi to Aberdeen at 8:30am in the morning. Dozens of the fishing boats were reaching the shore where the assistants immediately started unloading the goods. Crowds of buyers were waiting on the beach for the catch of the day being landed, commercial vans to load containers of fish mixed with ice to transport them to stores or markets.

My friend George noticed me and came closer: “Are you happy now?“. “Yes of course. This looks really nice! I still want some fresh fish for lunch today.”

He ran to one of the boats and returned after a few minutes with a huge bag of fish. “This is for you my friend. Free! No money!”

The more I insisted to pay, the more he insisted that this was his gift to me.

I had no choice but to take the gift to my temporary neighborhood, where I distributed most of the package among the local residents, who were just getting ready to cook lunch. Smiling women were surprised and happy at the same time.

Me too! I made the locals happy. They struggle daily with the lack of basic goods: water, electricity and food. But today there will be a delicious lunch on their tables.

I started my beach research in Aberdeen area and finished it in Tokeh Beach Resort. We are talking about 40 kilometers stretch of wonderful, mostly sandy beach with calm, warm sea. Especially in the city, the white powder beach is used for anything but swimming: playing football, walking, taking selfies, throwing garbage, bottles and never-ending plastic bags.

If I was already impressed by the beaches in Monrovia, the area of Freetown has the potential to be one of the best in Africa.

Numerous bars and restaurants forming a line of few kilometers along the Lumley Beach become wild, when the sun goes down. It seems that there is a rule to throw the garbage on the ground. There will be somebody next morning to clean around or the sea will wash it away … and also bring it back during the low tide. With this attitude, beside the collective sewage draining into the sea, the beach will not be appropriate for swimming soon.

The Aberdeen-Lumley area is a favorite destination for those venturing into the city’s nightlife. There are nightclubs, restaurants and hotels located not too far from the beach along the road linking both areas of the city. In a distance of 5 kilometers, the offer is splendid. Motorbikes, kekehs, taxis and individual cars drive up and down the main road, while music becomes louder in the late evening.

I found my little paradise beach at Tokeh Resort, driving more than 30 minutes from Freetown on three different moto-taxis.

The small fishing village is far enough to keep the beach clean, the perfect white powder sand slides between the fingers and squeaks pleasantly, small waves are great, while the water is too warm to cool down.

In the late afternoon three fishing boats landed in a fishing village nearby, where women gathered to organize the catch of the day – mostly small fish that will be dried and smoked for resale to the capital. They didn’t bother about me taking some photos and observing them.

Delicious Indian lunch, cold beer and a beautiful view to the sea is a perfect setting to reflect on my African adventures in the last month and make planes for new destinations in the near future.

The last country I visited in West Africa is Sierra Leone. One of the poorest countries in the world that has been struggling from one crisis to another, while the population is growing, corrupted politicians staying in power and capable businessmen running off with diamonds and other minerals without any benefits for locals.

Surprisingly, the majority-Muslim population is rather liberal and receptive towards other religions and believes, while other groups can freely integrate. Most of the Sierra Leoneans seem to struggle to survive and move on from the tragical recent history.

There is still a long way to go, but the willingness is there and the hope will never die.