China- travelling

Visited: August 1999

Duration of visit: 56 days

Capital city: Beijing

Population: 1,253 million (1999)

Estimated reading time: 19 minutes

• Visiting the Great Wall with a group of Chinese tourists to get a genuine encounter with the longest structure in the world.
• Beijing with its landmarks: Tiananmen Square, Mausoleum of Mao Zedong, Forbidden City and Lama Buddhist Temple.
• Awaiting the sunrise on the top of sacred mountain Emei Shan.
• Spinning sacred wheels in a three-kilometer-long pilgrimage route around Labrang Monastery in Xiahe.
• Three days trip with horses to the countryside above Songpan.
• Nowhere else in the world I could walk into the most rundown restaurants and get numerous options with freshly made vegetarian dishes in minutes.

China was part of the Asian Big Tour from Australia, through Southeast Asia to India. During this 15-months long trip I visited most of the countries in the region and spent two months travelling around China.

In this article I describe my travelling experience in China: tradition and modernity in Beijing, The Great Wall of China, giant panda, The Holy Mountains, Big Buddhas statues in Datong and Leshan, Xiahe – the most authentic Tibetan place outside of Tibet.

More articles about my China adventures are available here:

With its diverse ecosystems, transforming metropolises, and innovative solutions for travelers, China truly stands out. I was particularly amazed by the diverse range of foods, while on the other side, I found the communication quite challenging. In remote areas, I have occasionally spent more than a week without any interaction in English. Thanks to incredibly honest and friendly people to whom the ideas of communism, equality and social sacrifice are outdated ideals, the trip was truly unforgettable.

The capital of China, Beijing, is a modern metropolis with tall skyscrapers, wide roads, the central Tiananmen Square, many parks and temples. Beijing is not reflecting the reality of the whole China, but it is showing in which direction the country has been developing.

Reminding on a combination of New York’s skyscrapers, Los Angeles’ highways and Tokyo’s neon lights, Beijing is an excellent example of a strong national potential that has just beginning to show the limitless possibilities of development and growth at the end of the second millennium.

I settled down close to the city center in a hotel dedicated mostly to locals. They also offered two rooms that were selling as dormitory for much lower price. It was a bargain considering the fact that there were never other guests and I could use all the facilities by myself. I travelled around by public transport, ate in simple street eateries, experimented with traditional Chinese medicine and culture, and negotiated hard at informal shopping markets or tourist attractions.

The Tiananmen Square is still marked by Mausoleum of Mao Zedong and his paintings. The scene of the October 1^st parades, when China celebrates the foundation of the People’s Republic of China, is a huge concrete platform without a single bench, surrounded by important buildings: The National Museum of China to the east, Great Hall of the People (the Parliament) to the west, the Forbidden City to the north and McDonald’s restaurant to the south.

From the early morning, when the Chinese flag is hung high up on a pole, to the late evening, when colorful dragons fly in the square, it is captivating to observe Chinese visitors taking photos in front of the image of their unforgettable leader, Mao Zedong.

Among the diverse portfolio of temples, palaces, and monuments, the Forbidden City and the Lama Buddhist Temple are the most distinguished. For the ordinary people, the idea of entering the Forbidden City was merely a distant fantasy, as suggested by its name. This extraordinary imperial palace complex, the largest globally, was the residence of the Ming and Qing dynasty rulers, who withdrew from public life within their extravagant surroundings.

The creation of this monumental structure demanded the labor of an estimated one million workers and featured over 90 palace quarters and courtyards, 980 buildings, and over 8,728 rooms.

A masterpiece of Chinese architecture, is particularly outstanding for two details: no birds are sitting on the roofs, which are specially designed; the roofs are specifically engineered to ensure that birds do not settle on them, as the steepness of each roof results in a ridge that is wider than the distance between a bird’s feet, effectively barring them from landing. Moreover, the Inner Court is populated with trees, whereas the Outer Court is entirely free of them.

Despite the fact that the existing buildings were raised only from the 18^th century onwards, the Forbidden City has a special role in Chinese history due to its remarkable past.

The Lama Temple is by far the best-preserved temple in Beijing, remaining intact even during the Chinese Cultural Revolution. A dozen large monasteries with colorfully painted ceilings, three mighty Buddha statues and exquisite carvings make it one of the most beautiful Buddhist complexes outside of Tibet. The masterpiece of art is the 18-meter-high Buddha statue, made of a single piece of wood, which is the largest example of its kind in the world.

My evening activities after long days of walking, commuting and sightseeing in Beijing usually terminated on food markets, where I had opportunities to taste all kind of exotic dishes; from roasted grasshoppers, birds, snakes, freshly made soups or vegetarian delicacy.

I also enjoyed a spectacle of Chinese acrobats, famous for their skills and mobility and paid a visit to a traditional opera performance with colorful costumes and accentuated makeup.

The Great Wall of China and the panda are two symbols of China, on which they are building awareness of the preservation of endangered species and cultural monuments, while being main magnets to attract tourists into the country.

Despite all the myths, legends and history of the Great Wall of China, its survival can be partially attributed to the recent local tourist boom. With the exception of a few kilometers of the restored area north of Beijing, where tourists flock daily, only a pile of rubble remains of the Great Wall.

Out of the many tour options to the Great Wall, I chose a bus filled with Chinese tourists. This selection was much more economical compared to the English-speaking guided tours and was set to leave right away. Neither the guide nor my fellow travelers spoke any English. However, we managed to agree on essential formalities, and I was offered snacks. While at the Great Wall, I posed as if I were a well-known celebrity, taking an abundance of photographs in various positions, which made me feel akin to a model throughout the day.

With an extensive length of 21,196 kilometers, the Great Wall of China is acknowledged as the longest construction achieved by human engineering.

The walls have an average height between 6 and 7 meters, while the maximum height reaches 14 meters. The average width of the wall is recorded at 6.5 meters.

What was the purpose of the wall?

Defense, border controls of emigration, collection of taxes and duties for the goods transported along the Silk Road, regulation or encouragement of trade and the role as a transportation corridor. The defensive purpose was enhanced by the construction of watchtowers, troop barracks, garrison stations and signaling capabilities.

Through centuries, more than one million workers were recruited for the constructions, while recently over 50 million visitors are attracted every year to observe the Great Wall of China.

According to biologists, the number of living pandas in the world is around 1,500 (in 2000), divided into thirty isolated groups in the provinces of Sichuan, Gansu and Shaanxi.

The strict ban on hunting endangered species and cutting down the forests they inhabit, has helped to stabilize their population from shrinking.

In the natural environment, it is practically impossible to experience close encounters with them, so the best solution is offered by zoos. I visited the biggest panda shelter in Chengdu – The Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding. It was founded in 1987, when hosting only 6 giant pandas that were rescued from the wild. The population has grown to almost 70 during my visit.

Pandas feed exclusively on bamboo and are very passive most of the time (10 to 16 hours per day) due to lack of energy. They are good swimmers and excellent tree climbers. Their bold black and white coat and curvaceous body are their trademark.

The initiatives focused on panda conservation, the expansion of their natural habitats in the wilderness, and the gradual increase of their populations in zoos worldwide are yielding positive results, leading to a growth in their overall numbers. While there is still much work to be done, it is evident that the panda holds a prominent position as a symbol of China. This recognition provides a strong foundation for the expectation of a rising panda population each year.

The Holy Mountains were once pilgrimage routes that inspired pilgrims with their natural expanses and magical energy during difficult ascents. Today, they have been transformed into tourist attractions, where a large number of (Chinese) people flock every day. Due to lack of time or poor physical shape, they arrive to the top by cable cars, take a photo at sunrise, buy some souvenirs and return to the valley a few hours later.

Nine sacred mountains are acknowledged, of which five are Taoist and four are Buddhist. The most important are Mount Tai (Tai Shan) for Taoists and Mount Emei (Emei Shan), near Chengdu, for Buddhists. Tai Shan is associated with sunrise, birth, and renewal; it has been a place of worship for at least 3,000 years.

The ascent to Emei Shan, from 1,000m to 3,000m above sea level, along a path made of stone stairs, is challenging even for experienced mountaineers. Therefore, I decided to do most of the route by bus, walking only the last, steep section from the cable car station to the top. It is not advisable to hurry when climbing the holy mountains, because the most beautiful moments occur only on the second or third day, during the sunrise.

I made the decision to spend the night on the mountain to fully appreciate the most peaceful moments, when the crowds had dissipated. On the second day, I awoke to a dark and cold night at 4:00 AM. Before the sun rose, I climbed to the summit of Emei Shan, where I was joined by several hundred Chinese tourists. They had either walked out from the nearby luxury hotels or taken the cable car from the valley, all waiting for the sun to emerge from the horizon.

I almost gave up waiting in the unbearable cold, since I was not prepared for freezing temperatures, when finally, a glowing ball appeared from the fog covering the valley.  The cameras started rolling, the Chinese were posing in all possible positions. By far the most popular was standing one the abyss, with the sun on the palm of their hands.

All the effort was instantly rewarded as we united in a collective sigh at the sight of the brilliant, glowing sun rising from the horizon beyond the hills.

I walked down to my guesthouse where monks (my hosts) had already prepared a delicious breakfast. Warm beans, rice, tofu and eggs were served in complete peace. The food was simple, fresh and tasteful. No communication was needed to express my gratitude. The slight bow was received by a tender smile.

A long day of descend was ahead of me. Stairs make the walk more stable, but the pressure on my knees was tremendous. Many unfit climbers in elegant shoes couldn’t continue, while half of the people ascending were carried in simple bamboo stretchers.

It took me nearly a full day to reach the valley, as I took multiple breaks at refreshment bars and canteens along the route. These stops enabled me to enjoy freshly made tofu, appreciate the beautiful landscapes, and observe the determination of people ascending the sacred mountain.

The Yungang Grottoes are ancient Chinese Buddhist temple grottoes near the city of Datong in the province of Shanxi. They are excellent examples of rock-cut architecture from 5^th and 6^th century and one of the three most famous ancient Buddhist sculptural sites of China.

It was a long drive there, but a comfortable night train made it enjoyable. It was one of the very few occasions in China when I was able to buy train tickets. What a luxury!

Finding a hotel was another story. Apparently, the cheapest accommodation was available through CITS’office – a state-owned leisure and tourism corporation, that also provides accommodation. A bed in a dormitory at 40 yuan was the most expensive of the whole trip around China. The first five floors of the hotel were recently renovated, while the floor number 6, where my chamber was located, reminded of a hospital ward room. I was lucky, since no other visitors appeared during the night.

The grottoes are considered “Masterpiece of early Chinese Buddhist cave art and represent the successful fusion of Buddhist religious symbolic art from south and central Asia with Chinese cultural traditions, starting in the 5^th century under Imperial auspices.”

A justified UNESCO World Heritage Site includes about 20 major cave temples (252 in total) and many smaller niches. Grotto art combines traditional Chinese art forms with foreign influence, particularly Greek and Indian.

The most impressive statue for me was in the Cave 6, which surface area is approximately 1,000 square meters with the entire interior carved and painted. The pagoda-pillar, measuring around 14 meters in height, seems even more majestic as a result of its positioning within the cave.

The intricately carved statue in the open air in front of Cave 20 is the most iconic representation of Buddha and a cultural symbol of Yungang. The Buddha statue, standing at 13.7 meters tall, is seated on a stone platform and is characterized by a straight nose, deep-set eyes and a mustache above his thin lips.

Leshan Giant Buddha is a 71-meter-high, stone-carved monument to the seated Buddha. Construction started in 713 and was not completed until 90 years later. Its enormity is evidenced by its 7-meter-large ears and 8.5-meter-large toe, the toenail of which measures no less than 1.5 m. It is carved out of a cliff face of Cretaceous red bed sandstones.

This is the largest and tallest stone Buddha statue in the world, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996.

Both places are located far from each other, but they represent the extreme points of my trip from Chengdu to Beijing through Songpan, Xiahe, Labrang, Lanzhou and several stops in minor villages on the way. I am explaining more details about this area in the following paragraphs.

At the end of the second millennium China is modernizing with great speed.

New highways are being built, railway tracks are modernized, and multi-story skyscrapers are replacing old, wooden houses. There are fewer and fewer places or villages where you can enjoy the authentic natural environment without the crowds of Chinese tourists, perpetual noise of karaoke or traffic pollution.

The city of Songpan, in the north of Sichuan province was my starting point for a three days trip to the countryside, where the inevitable progress of mankind has not yet taken roots. The surrounding hills, situated at an elevation of 3,000 meters above sea level, are adorned with lakes, waterfalls, and forests, which are located several tens of kilometers apart. The thin air renders the trails too challenging for walking and too narrow for buses, thus providing an excellent opportunity for horseback riding.

With no previous exposure to horses until that moment, I found myself somewhat fearful of riding a white Yuan, as the owners named it. Yet, the horse’s serene disposition gave me a comforting sense of security. Accompanied by guides, we climbed high above Songpan, overlooking green forest, endless fields of wheat and a bunch of five-thousand meters peaks, covered in snow.

Whole families participated in the harvest of the rich crop in surrounding fields. Women gleaned with sickles, while the men tied the produce into bundles, attached it to donkeys or horses and carried it to their homes. Children shouted innocent English-Chinese greetings, while riding behind us. We left traffic noise, smog of factories and crowds of people far behind us.

We entered the Chaka Waterfall National Park and stopped at the edge of the forest. Tired of strenuous ride and sunshine, we took a break while the guides set up tents and prepared a simple lunch. Still before the sunset, I stretched my legs during a short walk to the shallow, but extremely long and clamorous waterfalls.

The cold night forced us to gather around the fire, the only source of light next to the stars in the sky. Dinner was even more delicious than lunch, enriched with a few bottles of beer and baijiu, a strong alcoholic drink, which soon started to push the blood through our veins.

Baijiu is a colorless liquid distilled from fermented sorghum with deadly effects, as it can contain as much as 60% alcohol. Chinese rinse it with beer to neutralize the burning taste in the mouth.

Following the consumption of several glasses, the local companions became animated; an older American next to me underestimated the effect of the magic drink, which costed him to lose the ground beneath his feet. We encouraged our guides to sing Chinese songs and the rest of us learned to use goat’s bellows to blow embers.

The night in tents was cold. Luckily, I brought my sleeping bag, which, in addition to a coat made of sheep’s wool, protected me from the morning cold.

After returning to Songpan, the elderly guide invited us to his modest house for dinner. His wife prepared delicious food, a bottle of baijiu was placed on the table, the tongue quickly untied and all Chinese words that I had been learning during the last two months started to fill the air. We made one last toast to the horses. They were almost ready for the next day, when they would take the new adventurers high up above Songpan.

At an altitude of 2,920 meters above sea level, the landscape around Xiahe is barren, but there are some interesting areas covered by steppe in the imminent vicinity, which enable contact with nomadic life, a close encounter with yaks or just admiration of the vivid blue sky, which seems to be within the reach of the palm of my hand.

Xiahe in Gansu province is said to be the most authentic Tibetan place outside of Tibet.

The leading town with Tibetan monasteries outside of Lhasa is marked by Labrang Monastery, which is encircled by the longest prayers wheel circuit in the world in a three-kilometer-long pilgrimage route.

I joined many pilgrims from near and far and started spinning the first of a total of over 2,000 wheels. Old women were steadily walking in front of me, the younger ones, who were overtaking me, were probably in a hurry to go to work.

More extreme believers (usually Buddhist monks) make the task even more difficult with a hellish rhythm: every four steps they lie down on the ground, bow to Buddha, kiss the ground and repeat the process. Young monks come to an active monastery mainly from Tibet, so many of them can speak Chinese the same as me – zero.

I was taught basics of Tibetan language, which is completely different from Chinese, as well as cultural values. Their calmness, solidarity, modesty and devotion make all other things unimportant. Instead of an image of Mao, their notebooks are adorned with images of their highest spiritual leader Dalai Lama or other high-ranking Buddhist monks.

Religious activities are directed at Labrang Monastery, one of the six largest Tibetan monasteries of the Gelukpa Buddhist sect. Labrang Monastery is home to the largest number of monks outside of the Tibet Autonomous Region. In addition to its religious purpose, the monastery is also dedicated to research, as it unites six institutes under its auspices: The Institute of Esoteric Buddhism, two theological institutes, the Institute of Medicine, Astrology and Law.

Labrang Monastery was built in 1709 under the supervision of E’angzongzha (the first generation of the living Buddha). At its peak, the complex was home to almost four thousand monks, whose number decreased significantly during the Cultural Revolution in the second half of the 1960s.

After a great fire in 1985, Labrang saw better times in the 1990s, as it was rebuilt and restored to some of its original luster with a large financial aid from Beijing. The number of monks is increasing; today there are around two thousand living in the monastery.

The most fabulous moment, when I found complete peace, was in the late afternoon.

Sitting on the hills on the outskirts of the city, hanging over a cliff and observing mystical phenomena of Buddhist monks who gather in groups inside the temple or around it.

They read religious books, learn from them or repeat mantras and move the beads of mala bracelets in their hands. Monks use the beads to track the number of times a mantra is recited. It is said that reciting a mantra around these sacred numbers (18, 27, 54, and 108) will let you connect with your spiritual self.

The most important event in Xiahe is the great Monlam prayer festival, which begins three days after the Tibetan New Year, usually in late February or March. On the hill in front of the monastery, a thirty-meter-tall image of Buddha is unfurled. Processions during religious gatherings are central activities for thousands of Buddhists.

The next day, thirty-five masked dancers with Yama, the god of death, take center stage. The festivals are not important only to the Buddhist monks who live in the monastery, but also attract pilgrims from all over the Gansu province and surrounding areas.

At the end of 1999, China remains a big challenge for most travelers. While the neighboring countries have been quickly opening to mass tourism, with local residents learning English and inventing methods to extract as much money as possible from foreigners, China is still one of the few countries in Asia where the majority of population care very little for tourists.

The pristineness and originality still remain strong with virtually no major development on the countryside.

Despite cultural differences and often unpleasant behavior, such as spitting, rude talk, or quarreling, Chinese people are in general extremely kind. The presence of the foreigner draws the attention of both young individuals seeking engagement with the international community and older citizens who experienced the Mao Revolution.

For me, China is among the Top 3 destinations in Asia.