Iran

My Iran travel summary:

Visited: September 2004

Duration of visit: 25 days

Capital city: Tehran

Population: 75 million (2004)

Iran travel blog reading time: 16 minutes

• Despite negative media news, I felt safe throughout.
• Incredible hospitality – talking, inviting me for tea, and opening their homes.
• Impressive mix of history, culture, religion and architecture.
• Being invited into the homes of new friends in Tehran and Rafsanjan.
• Historical cities of Esfahan, Shiraz, Yazd and Qom with mosques, tombs and museums.
• Analyzing the consequences of the Iranian Revolution.

One of the few countries in the world that is large enough to survive independently and proud enough to sacrifice for its leaders. It is filled with humble people who are incredibly welcoming and willing to do anything to make visitors happy. Iranians are among the friendliest people I have met, alongside Syrians and Sudanese.

I would not have visited Iran if I had followed news or friends’ advice from back home.

Iran was part of my overland trip from Europe, through the Middle East and East Africa – the African Big Tour, in 2004. During my Iran travel adventure, I visited the country’s most important regions and spent almost a month travelling around.

After decades of rule by Shah Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the 1979 Islamic Revolution replaced the monarchy with the Islamic Republic under Ayatollah Khomeini. Since then, Iran has combined clerical rule, strong religious control, limits on personal freedom and political rights and restrictions on women.

Women are expected to dress modestly, covering their hair and body in public, often with a headscarf or chador. Young men and women face strict social limits, including bans on alcohol, nightclubs, dancing, and many forms of open socializing.

The Islamic Revolution greatly limited the freedoms of young people in one of the world’s youngest populations.

The Revolution also brought free education, and by 2002 more women than men entered universities. I could only wonder what await young professional women after graduation, as many jobs remain reserved for men.

To protect the Revolution, the ayatollahs long pursued nuclear power as leverage against the United States and Israel.

Khomeini died many years ago, but new leaders continue his doctrines, backed by strong security forces. Media is censored, newspapers are shut down, satellite dishes removed, and internet access often blocked.

The Iranian embassy in Ankara issued the visa in just two hours, leaving a very positive first impression of Iranian institutions.

I crossed the Turkish-Iranian border with my girlfriend. A kind immigration officer welcomed us, wished us a pleasant stay, and reminded us that women in Iran must remain fully covered in public.

While looking for transport to Tabriz, Hashem, the owner of a Volkswagen van, approached us and offered a free ride. Slightly surprised, I accepted.  The next four hours I was listening to hypnotic music, chest-beating rhythms and singing, while Hashem tried to overtake every vehicle ahead of us.

A little shaken but very grateful, I got out in Tabriz and began looking for accommodation.

Finding an inexpensive guesthouse was difficult, as most hotels exceeded my budget. I eventually stayed at Darya Hotel, more like a simple guesthouse, run by a helpful owner who reminded me of French actor Louis de Fines.

When he placed our passports in a drawer, I was initially worried. However, he then showed me it contained passports and documents from all guests, which reassured me.

I filled out the forms and gave him our passports. He placed them in a table drawer, which made me worried about leaving them there unattended. After a brief discussion, the owner opened the drawer and showed me about 20 other guests’ passports and documents safely stored inside.

“You are in a very safe country. If I lose your passport, I will go to jail. You will get you passport back, when your check-out from the hotel.”

The conversation ended, and I calmed down after seeing many other passports. Later, I was repeating the same procedure in all hotels across Iran.

A daily visit to Kandovan reminded me a lot on Cappadocia in Turkey. Manmade cliff dwellings are excavated in volcanic rock with cone-shaped roofs, shaped by erosion, wind, and rain. They are distributed throughout the hill as a unique attraction.

The biggest difference with Cappadocia is today’s usage of the buildings.

While in Cappadocia most of the structures are dedicated to tourist accommodation, restaurants or souvenir shops, Kandovan is actually a place where locals live.

They have lived in a similar way for 700 years, hiding and living in caves that provided shelter and energy-efficient homes. A local family invited me into their home, showed me around, and offered tea, bread, and cheese. Everything felt so natural and spontaneous that we got along like old friends.

On my way back, I met a group of volunteers from Qom, who invited me to join them on a bus to Tabriz. It was a fun trip full of singing and laughter. At the end, I was invited to visit them in Qom.

My next stop on Iran travel adventure was Qazvin, a former capital of Iran. Today it is known for carpets, grapes, baklava, poets, and vibrant street life. Its atmosphere becomes especially lively at night with people enjoying tea and pleasant walks, though there are not many other things to do.

I visited active Jameh Mosque of Qazvin, one of the oldest mosques in Iran with the grave of Imamzadeh Hossein, built in the mid-16^th century as a pilgrimage center. The first holy place I explored in Iran impressed me with fine architecture, vibrant colors, and the devotion of believers. Definitely a must-place to visit and the main attraction of Qazvin.

As everywhere in Iran, separation of men and women is common and can be difficult to understand from a European perspective. As a visitor, I cannot judge its impact, but I suspect many would not agree with strict prohibition of gender mixing.

Tehran is one of the largest cities in the Middle East, Iran’s industrial center, and one of the world’s most polluted capitals. From the Grand Bazaar and shopping malls to art galleries, tea houses, traffic jams, and packed metro trains. It is busy, chaotic, and full of contrasts.

I saw women in black chadors beside young girls with loosely covered hair. Tehran felt modern and traditional at once, conservative in appearance yet surprisingly open in spirit.

I rode in the front of a local bus reserved for men, watching carefully for our stop. Suddenly, I heard my girlfriend screaming from the women’s section at the back.

“Get off the bus at the next station!”

Since she knew nothing about my lodging plans in Tehran, her instructions on where to get off surprised me. When we left the bus, I saw she was with an elderly woman who invited us to lunch at the Iranian Central Bank canteen.

The staff looked at me with curiosity, smiling and greeting. The food was good, incredibly cheap, and apparently accessible to well-connected or invited foreigners.

Tara, as the elderly woman introduced herself, was retired, lived with her son Keyvon, and spoke very good English. She did not support the current system in Iran. Later, I realized she was far less devout than I had expected from an Iranian Muslim.

She invited us into her home, where we stayed for the next four days, eating, sleeping, talking, and drinking endless cups of tea. Her son, Keyvon, an unemployed college graduate, enjoyed computer games and often complained about the repressive policies.

We watched a Jennifer Lopez concert on a pirated CD, played video games, and talked about secret underground parties.

It is widely known that many young Iranian women attend secret underground parties late at night.

If discovered by authorities, such gatherings could have serious consequences. However, many young people still take risk despite bans on alcohol, sex, and drugs. Even a Slovenian ambassador in Tehran mentioned being invited to such parties and described underground social life in the city.

Friday prayers in Iran are the most important weekly religious ritual. They include a short prayer and a sermon delivered by a male cleric.

In Tehran, I tried to attend the main service led by Supreme Leader Ali Khamenei. Keyvon, helped me apply for special permission to enter the restricted downtown area. I filled out forms, added my photo, and waited patiently.

After two hours of waiting and asking security guards, I gave up and returned home. It would have been an exciting thing to do, but the crowd made access impossible anyway.

Tehran may not match Esfahan or Yazd in architecture, but its National Jewelry Treasury is a truly remarkable landmark.

The National Jewelry Treasury inside the Central Bank is one of the world’s most dazzling collections of diamonds, gemstones, and royal jewelry.

Unfortunately, no photos are allowed inside the museum.

The Treasury’s history began under the Safavid dynasty in the 16^th century and continued until the fall of the last shah Mohammad Reza Pahlavi in 1979. Valuable rubies, precious gemstones, priceless crowns, countless diamonds, and jewel-covered shields are displayed throughout the museum.

The highlight is the Sea of Light Diamond, one of the world’s largest cut diamonds, weighing about 182 carats.

I had never seen such an impressive collection of precious stones before.

The Mausoleum of Ruhollah Khomeini lies on the southern outskirts of Tehran. Construction began in 1989 after his death and was still ongoing during my visit. It will likely take decades to complete this vast complex.

Planned features include his tomb, a cultural and tourist center, Islamic university, seminary, and shopping mall, with a budget of around 2 billion USD.

I was not impressed by what I saw under construction; other shrines in Iran felt more remarkable.

I continued my Iran travel adventure to Qom, the second most sacred city in Iran.

The Shrine of Fatima Masumeh was one of the most outstanding landmarks I visited in the whole country. Watching pilgrims pray for hours and follow centuries-old rituals in this major Shi’i shrine was deeply impressive. The golden dome, decorative muqarnas at the entrance, and Islamic architecture are spectacular.

During the 1979 Revolution, Qom became its symbolic birthplace, closely linked to Ayatollah Khomeini. Khomeini studied in Qom and lived there at the beginning and end of the Revolution. He also used images of the shrine in revolutionary posters, currency, and stamps.

Today, thousands of devoted pilgrims still gather around the mosque.

A comfortable Volvo bus with air conditioning took me to Esfahan, the most beautiful city in Iran. It has so many incredible places to visit and exciting things to do that I could stay there for a week.

Negotiating with taxi drivers for a ride to the hotel was difficult, and the service was finally bad. This was the only time during my Iran travel adventure I had to speak firmly to end an uncomfortable discussion.

Amir Kabir Hostel was a disappointing place where I ended up despite trying to find better options. It seemed issues were only addressed when safety was at risk.

The city atmosphere felt different from earlier experiences in Iran, with more relaxed young people, tourist groups. The traffic was calmer and women were wearing colorful scarves that often slipped off by coincidence.

Esfahan is famous for its Perso-Islamic architecture, grand boulevards, covered bridges, palaces, tiled mosques, and minarets.

The city serves as both an important regional capital and one of the leading centers of Islamic architecture. Once the splendid capital of Shah Abbas’s Safavid Empire, Esfahan remains rich in historic landmarks, some dating back to pre-Islamic Iran.

Esfahan’s most prominent feature is Imam Square, an awe-inspiring place that immediately caught my attention, with historic buildings and the famous Shah Mosque. I was struck by its blue tilework, Quranic calligraphy, elegant minarets, and floral motifs, making it one of the most beautiful mosques I have ever seen.

The best things to do were simply wandering around, people-watching, and relaxing in the square’s unique atmosphere.

While the Shah Mosque was built for the public, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque served a more private role for the royal court. Though smaller, its interior dome is breathtaking; at sunset, the light created the illusion of a peacock’s tail.

I visited Esfahan’s Grand Bazaar several times, wandering through its alleys, discovering domed halls, and admiring the high ceilings, with stops in teahouses.

The most picturesque teahouse is on Si-o-seh Bridge. The famous 300-meters long bridge from 17^th century, with 33 arches over the Zayandeh River, becomes especially atmospheric at night. Young couples and friends quietly gather in a mysterious, peaceful setting, sipping tea and talking.

On 30 September, Iran celebrates Imam Mahdi’s Birthday, a national holiday with decorated streets and gatherings in mosques.

For me, the most memorable was an evening in Esfahan when public kitchens opened. People gathered around large pans and baskets where free meals were served. I joined the queues and tasted vegetable dishes with bread, tea, and sweets.

In Shiraz, I stayed in a hotel used only by local guests, where receptionists spoke no English. Somehow, we managed to communicate everything we needed.

After Tehran, I saw juice stands again, though less tasty than in the capital. Women in Shiraz seemed even more relaxed, speaking freely and showing more of their hair and makeup.

Shiraz was the capital of Iran during the Zand dynasty (1747–79) and one of the most important cities in the medieval Islamic world. I explored its streets, gardens, mosques, and bazaars, spending two days wandering and enjoying simple things like getting lost and observing daily life.

Here are some of the main attractions and places to visit.

The Nasir-al-Mulk, known as the Pink Mosque, is Shiraz’s top landmark. Its stained glass, thousands of pink tiles, and Persian rugs create a peaceful atmosphere, especially in the morning light.

Shah-e-Cheragh Shrine is a major pilgrimage site in Shia Islam, known for the tombs of Ahmad and Muhammad. Its mirror-covered walls, green marble floors, and tiled dome make it especially striking and the third most important shrine in Iran.

The walls and ceiling are covered in millions of glittering mirror pieces, with light green marble floors. The exterior is equally stunning, featuring an onion-shaped tiled dome and two short minarets that add to its grandeur.

A daily detour to Persepolis was an extremely rewarding part of my Iran travel experience. The 2,500-year-old ruins are remarkably well preserved, and walking among them felt like stepping back in time.

Horse sculptures, fierce animals, towering columns, carved royal figures, and the small museum made inspired me to take many photos. I left with great admiration for its scale and historical significance.

The distance between Shiraz and Yazd is about 450 kilometers, usually a seven-hour trip by luxury Volvo bus. I chose a daytime ride on a regular bus instead, leaving at 7:30am and travelling much more time.

Without air conditioning or other comforts, I sat in the front row supervising the driver and assistant. After an hour, a burning smell appeared and other drivers signaled us about the issue. When our driver finally realized about unusual smell, he stopped the bus.

We discovered that two tires had burst at once. The senior assistant prepared his tools and climbed onto the roof like a spider, earning the nickname Spiderman.

Unfortunately, the second spare tire had no rim, so the driver stopped a passing pick-up, loaded the punctured tires, and drove to a nearby vulcanizer. We waited about two hours for his return, while locals gathered corn in a nearby field and I had an interesting conversation with fellow students.

After the break, the driver sped aggressively to make up time, reducing lunch to a 15-minute rushed meal of rice and sauce.

In the afternoon, we entered a 200-kilometre desert stretch, and the smell of burning rubber returned. We stopped with one flat tire, quickly fixed by Spiderman, and continued at a reduced speed for safety.

We reached Yazd at night after a 12-hour journey. I was exhausted and hungry. Unfortunately, many hotels were full or refusing foreigners, so I spent over an hour searching for accommodation.

Over the next two days, I enjoyed Yazd’s highlights at a relaxed pace. The most impressive was the Amir Chakhmaq Complex, with its imposing three-story façade and perfectly symmetrical sunken alcoves that dominate the square.

I also wandered through the old town, admiring its traditional mud-brick architecture and narrow lanes. The rooftops offered unforgettable views and sunsets, giving the city a warm, timeless atmosphere.

Bam, in Kerman province, is known for its dates, citrus fruits and the historic citadel. It was devastated by a major earthquake in 2003.

When I visited less than a year later, the scene looked like an apocalypse, with the old town almost completely collapsed. The old town had almost completely collapsed, mainly due to traditional adobe construction methods without structural reinforcement.

Around 34,000 people died and over 200,000 were injured in the earthquake. The devastation was worsened by the widespread use of mud-brick construction.

It was a deeply sad experience to see destroyed citadels, houses, mosques, and markets reduced to piles of mud bricks. At that time, only a narrow wooden path and observation platform had been installed. The renovation hasn’t started yet.

On a large poster showing Bam before and after the earthquake, I reflected on the power of nature and the fragility of human life.

In Kerman, while waiting for the bus to Mashhad in a teahouse, I noticed many interesting passers-by and women wearing lighter, more colorful scarves than elsewhere.

A young student, Hemad, with his girlfriend Mashid, approached us and after a short conversation invited us to Rafsanjan, where they both studied.

I had not heard about the city before or planned to visit it, but I accepted their invitation to stay at their home.

I managed to reschedule my bus ticket and headed to Rafsanjan.

We first stopped at a pistachio warehouse, where he made a phone call, offered me a can of high-quality pistachios, and then stepped away to pray.

“Rafsanjan is one of the world’s largest pistachio producers and my friends work in the pistachio business,“ Hemad explained me.

About 15 minutes later, Mustafa and his father arrived. He was a pistachio trader and local bar owner, and they invited us to their main warehouse storing several tons of pistachios for export.

While dinner was ordered, we played computer games, watched pistachios being dried. We had interesting conversations about Iranian lifestyle, relationships, women, and religion.

The next day we visited the local university, where two professors prepared Indian tea and donated me half a kilo of dates for the journey.

One of the teachers insisted to visit a ceramic tile factory, partly owned by his uncle. Opened just six months earlier with a 50 million USD investment from a pistachio dealer, could be located in any developed country. It featured fully automated Italian machinery operated by female engineers.

After lunch, I left for the bus to continue my Iran travel adventure north, full of impressions from the pistachio capital.

Iran is a complex and multifaceted country. Only Allah knows what Iran would be like without the revolution and nuclear tensions.

Alcohol is banned, internet is censored, hijab is compulsory for women, and certain dress rules apply for men, while international payment systems are not widely accepted. It is an Islamic republic with strong state and religious control, reflected in limited freedoms and supervision by religious authorities.

I will remember Iran for its hospitable people, beautiful mosques, and vibrant markets.

Iran is not an easy country to fully understand or navigate, but it is extremely rewarding to visit.

Iran is one of my favorite countries that I have visited in Asia.