Afghanistan

Visited: October 2023

Duration of visit: 10 days

Capital city: Kabul

Population: 40 million (2023)

Estimated reading time: 4 minutes

• Crossing Torkham border – one of the most inhumane border crossing.
• Arranging permits at various ministries in the capital, drinking tea and taking selfies with the Taliban.
• Exploring Kabul markets, mosques and sights, while meeting people who were eager to talk to me.
• Visiting Bamiyan and mourning for the unforgivable & outrageous destruction of 1,500 years old statues of Buddhas.
• Admiring a chain of intensely blue lakes formed from mineral-rich water in Band-e-Amir National Park.
• The Blue Mosque surrounded by tents with refuges, who lost their homes in recent earthquakes in Herat.
• Driving through remote areas in a 4WD from Herat to Maymana.
• Admiring beautiful mosque in Mazar-i-Sharif, where Shrine of Hazrat Ali stands.
• Savoring fresh, inexpensive fruit juices and shakes all over the country.

More than 40 years of conflicts have turned Afghanistan into an actual war-torn country. Since 1979, when rebellion against the Communist party started in a form of a 10 years long war between the Soviet Union and Mujahideen (jihadist militants), the country has seen very little peace.

The Soviets defeat was followed by fight among Mujahideen warlords, impoverishing the country even more. A former Mujahid, Mullah Omar, founded a movement named Taliban in the city of Kandahar as a response to the disappointment that Islamic law had not been enforced after the communists were kicked out.

The Taliban quickly took over the whole Kandahar province and controlled 90% of Afghanistan’s territory, including Kabul, ruling with heavy-handed approach until 2001.

The two decades long American Invasion was covered by international media: it began with the hunt of Osama bin Laden as the leader of Al Qaeda and infamously ended with their withdrawal in 2021, after which the Taliban took over the country.

In 2023 the Taliban still rule the country, but the situation is different than before the American invasion. It is provocative to say that Afghanistan right now has been the safest for decades, but it is a fact.

The Taliban welcome tourists to help improve their public image, hoping to get international recognition eventually.

Afghanistan is a unique country in Central Asia that has been continuously perturbated by war for the last 4 decades. Even though it seems to be peaceful these days, there are other reasons to believe that this territory should not be defined as a travel destination. But still, after a profound analysis, I decided to visit some important cities, traveled overland through remote areas, where I explored some of the natural beauties and historic sites.

All in all, a great experience without any hassle, if you follow the rules, dress properly, show respect to the current government and get all the permits needed at the Ministry of Tourism regional offices. Logistic is easy, accommodation always within easy reach, food predominantly based on meat, plenty of fruits or vegetables available. Natural juices for a few cents are delicious, pomegranates the most flavorsome in the world.

What is the main reason for the country to be in such a desperate position between wars, conflicts, poverty, restrictions and suffering? Ethnical diversity, religion, interests of the USA, strategic geographical position or desert landscape that offers limited resources to survive?

Everybody can make his own judgement and blame others or nature for incapacity of the nation to progress. I have my opinion, also based on the situations in other countries of the wider region, that have not been blessed with oil reserves and prioritize a particular religion as the highest value in the society, dictating all other aspects of life: education, work, marriages, family relations, entertainment, art, politics, economy, etc.