Visited: June 1996, June 2004, 2005-2006, November 2014, May 2016, October 2017, February 2019
Duration of travelling: 150 days
Duration of living: 350 days
Capital city: Washington D.C.
Population: 328 million (2019)
What will remember:
- Exploring New York City from the perspectives of a backpacker, entrepreneur, and parent.
- Coast to coast drive from Washington D.C. to Portland by my dream car for free.
- Exploring dramatic canyons, alpine rivers, lush forests, hot springs and gushing geysers in Yellowstone National Park.
- Driving a motorbike on the six-lanes highway of Los Angeles before touring around national parks of the West Coast.
- Enthusiastic about the evolution of Las Vegas from a small frontier town into a global gambling and entertainment mecca.
- San Francisco and Miami – are distinguished by their unique character, distinctive atmosphere, rich diversity, and an abundance of notable landmarks.
- Living in South Carolina, while working as a manager for a Slovenian company, gave me an opportunity to understand better American culture, be in touch, work and live with locals.
- From amazing surfing culture to picturesque volcanic landscape in Hawaii.
The fourth biggest and the third most populated state in the world, is the most well-known country on earth. Consisted of 50 states and a federal government in Washington D.C., without official language or religion, The United States of America is known as a melting pot of cultures, religions and nations. From fast food chains to sport, entertainment and political celebrities, prestige universities, cosmopolitan cities, national parks to stereotypes about people, lifestyle or opportunities; the US offers as many reasons as any other country in the world to visit it and tour around for months.
I travelled through the US by rental car, on my own car and motorbike, as well as by public transport. I slept in luxury hotels, rundown guesthouses, camped in my tent and lived in a rental apartment. Travelling, living and working in America offered me numerous opportunities to appreciate or dislike it.
Natural wonders inspired me, the gambling capital of the world Las Vegas captivated me with the Strip and nightlife. I ignored iconic fast food chains, fell in love with American basketball, make fun of how naïve and brainwashed people often are.
The Land of Opportunity, where I started my first Big Tour and kept coming back to explore more and more, is one of the best countries to visit for me, but not to live.
I am separating my exploration of US in three sections, that occurred in different phases, periods and circumstances: as a backpacker crossing the US on a car and motorbike (1996), working in US for a Slovenian corporation (2004-05) and a couple of short trips to specific areas (Hawaii, Florida) in 2014 and 2017.
Big trip across America
Starting the first big trip without splendid reception in New York City
After many months of preparation, the long-awaited moment for a flight to the other side of the Atlantic finally come, and thus the beginning of my journey around the world. I wanted to travel on a motorbike, but I was aware from day one that this was practically impossible. The main obstacle would be the bureaucratic problems at the borders of the Central and South American countries, as well as impossible road conditions during rainy season. My limited budget presented a significant barrier.
In June 1996, I flew on a one-way ticket aboard an Alitalia flight from Trieste, with a stopover in Rome, to New York’s JFK Airport. New York City did not greet me with glamour, perhaps not even kindly. It was already dusk, raining and the information center, which would provide me the most basic information, was already closed. I was fortunate to encounter a German woman who converted to a New Yorker, and together we traveled on the subway toward the city center.
The youth hostel where I booked the first night in advance, was in a desperate condition, but I was too tired to look for any other options late in the evening. I fell asleep on the dirty sheets from previous guest.
The next morning, I thanked my hosts for hospitality and moved on to the cheapest hostel in Manhattan. I paid merely 12US$ for a bed in a dormitory with number of cockroaches included in the price. I was shocked when finding out how behind all glamour, impressive building, richness and prestige of New York City people could live in such a neglected place with cockroaches, dirty plates, leftovers from previous guests and filthy sheets. I had never seen anything like that while backpacking around Europe.
Exploring the Big Apple on foot
In general, the atmosphere was cool; I met many other travelers, including two Slovenians who were targeting Camp America. I got along especially well with a Malaysian guy Jason. We explored Manhattan together for a few days and at the end, I promised him to visit his homeland in a year, if my plan goes well.
A spent a week wondering around New York City, visiting the most important sights: from the World Trade Center, the New York Stock Exchange, to China Town and the Statue of Liberty. If I had to describe New York City in a few words, this would be the way: Crowds of people and cars, moving fast around skyscrapers of unimaginable heights often resulting in neck discomfort for pedestrians.
I walked over 80 blocks per day, ate in cheap restaurants or at street vendors mostly in Chinatown and enjoyed the perfect summer weather in Central Park, nearby my guesthouse. I quickly learned that New York City is much more than only about museums, galleries, skyscrapers and Broadway shows.
I really appreciated the atmosphere, variety of eccentric people performing, being dressed in an alternative way or gathering together a group of devotees trying to convince them about alternative life options. Especially Sundays in the Central Park are excellent place for people watching. I spotted baseball enthusiasts, many young and old skateboarders, runners, cyclists or young families with babies in strollers.
The main landmarks: Statue of Liberty, Times Square and World Trade Center
Statue of Liberty is one of the most iconic and symbolic monuments of New York City, located south of Manhattan, on Liberty Island. Made in Paris by the French sculptor Bartholdi in collaboration with Gustave Eiffel, it was a gift from France on the centenary of American independence, inaugurated in 1886. It was erected at the entrance to New York Harbor to welcome millions of new immigrants to the United States.
Instead of taking expensive tourist boats to the Ellis Island, I jumped on a ferry connecting Manhattan with New Jersey. The ticket price of 0.50 US$ enabled me to take good photos and appreciate lower Manhattan from the best perspective.
I stood on the platform at the junction of Broadway, Seventh Avenue, and 42nd Street, looking around at the glowing billboards, posters and shiny buildings, thinking about how far I am from my family, friends and homeland. Beautiful, amazing, I’ve always dreamed of it. Nevertheless, the homesickness of the first days was ravaging me inside, and in every difficult situation, I doubted whether I would be able to travel all the way to the south of the continent. I was surrounded by a set of large screens and illuminated signs at Times Square, the famous red stairs, prestigious stores and some museums that were too expensive for my pocket.
An icon of New York City between 1973 and 2011, the original World Trade Center was a symbol of globalization and the economic prosperity of the United States. The main towers were the tallest buildings in the world, when they were built up to 110th floor (415 and 417 meters). On windy days, each tower could sway up to almost 30 centimeters side to side. There were 198 elevators to attend 430 businesses from 28 different countries. The buildings were finished by 1973, along with four of the other World Trade Center buildings, only 5 years after the construction started.
I devoted the entire afternoon to the WTC. The super-fast elevator raised me up to the 107th floor in only 58 seconds. I was allowed to stay on the top floor as long as I wanted. The view of the surrounding parts of Manhattan, Queens, Brooklyn and Harlem was excellent in sunny weather and absolutely worth the 8.00 US$ entrance fee. The sun was slowly hiding behind the horizon, the first lights turned on, the Brooklyn Bridge came alive in all its glory. I tested my new camera in a night environment, observing relatively rare visitors and spotting famous buildings below me: Statue of Liberty, the Empire state building, Rockefeller Center, Broadway Street, etc.
Admiring The New York Stock Exchange as a young economist
Brooklyn bridge was the longest suspension bridge in the world at the time of its opening, with a main span of 486 meters, connecting Manhattan and Brooklyn. I walked the bridge in an hour and a half, stopping on the way to appreciate advance engineering from the 19th century. Not very impressed exploring the neighborhood of downtown Brooklyn, I very quickly jumped on a bus back to Manhattan.
As a recent graduate of the Faculty of Economics, I had to confirm the theory in practice, so I decided to visit the New York Stock Exchange. The New York Stock Exchange is the largest and most famous stock exchange in the world, but it is also probably the most difficult to photograph. It is surrounded by other, taller buildings. An event took place on the street in front of the building, where volunteers distributed complimentary bagels, much to my delight.
250 US$ for a taxi from JFK to downtown
One of the most bizarre events happened in the youth hostel. One evening a Japanese visitor arrived straight from JFK airport to my dormitory room. In an introductory conversation he complained how expensive taxis are in USA: “I paid 250 US$ for a ride from the airport to this hostel!”. I couldn’t help to laugh like crazy and explained him that he must have been cheated. The price should be 40 to 50 US$ in a limousine, not a simple cab. He was visiting New York City for 9 days and he can probably afford much more. But still, 250 US$ was my budget for a week of staying in the city with all expenses included. I find it even more incomprehensible, why he was staying in such rundown hostel, for only 12 US$ per night.
My original plan was to purchase a motorbike in New York, starting my overland trip on a proper vehicle.
Most people advised me against buying a motorcycle in one of the most expensive cities to live in the US. Furthermore, that the costs of motorcycles greatly surpass my financial limitations and aspirations, thereby I was postponing the youthful wish about motorcycling in the USA.
Scared in Washington D.C.
I proceeded on my journey via Greyhound bus to Washington D.C., the capital city of the United States.
According to official statistics, D.C. ranks second in the number of murders per capita in the country. I was really scared after getting off the bus at main bus terminal and boarding underground train.
Holding my big knife in a small bag that was hanging over my chests, I was ready to be attacked at any time. I spotted suspicious faces at every corner. I didn’t want to end my round-the-world trip in the capital of the first country I was visiting.
It turned out that unfavorable statistics is actually an official bureaucratic figure, while the real situation is completely different. The central area around the National Mall, home to iconic monuments including the Lincoln Memorial and the Washington Monument, many museums and US Capitol, is one of the safest areas in America. Numerous police officers and security personnel provide a feeling of safety, even during nighttime hours. Since this was predominantly an area of my activities, my panic was exaggerated.
From the Capitol to the White House
Designed by Pierre-Charles L’Enfant at the request of George Washington, Washington D.C. is located on a piece of land specifically set aside after the Revolutionary War to keep the federal government from being in a single state. The White House, the United States Capitol, the Washington Monument, as well as various museums and memorials, are strategically arranged along the park-like expanse of the National Mall. I walked up and down on numerous occasions during the day and at night when celebrations around 4th of July were taking place.
Located on the eastern side of The National Mall, the seat of the House of Representatives and the Senate is recognized around the world as a symbol of the United States. The huge dome of the Capitol, based on the dome of St. Peter’s in Rome, stands out above all other Washington buildings.
On the western end stands the Lincoln Memorial, separated from the Washington Monument by the reflecting pool. At its center is almost 6 meters tall marble statue of President Abraham Lincoln in seating and pensive position, surrounded by 36 columns, one for each of the states that existed at the time of Lincoln’s death. Since its completion in 1922, the Lincoln Memorial has been the scene of a number of historic events. The most memorable speech from the memorial steps was delivered by Martin Luther King Jr. in 1963, with his famous: “I have a dream…“.
The official residence of the President of the United States – The White House, was originally built in 1792, and after being burned down by British forces in 1814, it was rebuilt in 1818. A group of protesters who practically live in front of the White House, called more of my attention than the enclosed mansion, off the limits to normal people. They protest against usage and manufacturing of weapons, collecting signatures and gossip to the visitors. Some representatives of non-governmental organizations adopted the protests as their way of life, spending decades fighting for the cause.
The 170 meters high white shaft of the Washington Monument is especially beautiful when mirrored in the long reflecting pool at its foot. The construction of the monument experienced several interruptions, resulting in distinct phases that are evident through three variations in the color of the facing stones.
My favorite museum in the area is the National Air and Space Museum, with a collection of history-making air and spacecraft that includes the original 1903 Wright Brothers Flyer, the first plane to fly solo across the Atlantic Ocean and Apollo 11 command module, part of the first manned lunar landing mission. In general museums in USA are the best in the world and usually free of charge.
With Drive away service from East to West Coast for pennies
Due to my inability to locate a suitable motorcycle in Washington D.C., I opted to relocate to the West Coast using an alternative mode of transportation. The best choice turned out to be the so called Driveaway service, which works according to the following principle:
Driveaway companies facilitate the transportation of vehicles for car owners who pay to have their vehicles moved from one location to another, often across considerable distances. An assigned driver picks up a car in the agency and deliver it to the designated destination within a specified timeframe and mileage limit. The driver only covers the cost of petrol and possible penalties in case of speeding, mileage or any other form of traffic offence.
I selected a compact Honda Civic destined for Portland, Oregon with time limit of 10 days and a maximum allowed mileage of 5,300 kilometers – 800 kilometers more than a direct trip would require. It meant a lot of driving, but the journey took me past some of the most stunning national parks.
The initial two days were entirely devoted to driving, during which I successfully covered a total distance of 2,000 kilometers. Most highways in America are free, straight and wide. Speed limits are incomprehensibly low, usually only 100 kms per hour. The big majority of drivers diligently respect the rules, set the cruiser to the speed limit and use the particular line.
Badlands and Yellowstone National parks
The first real stop was Badlands National Park in South Dakota. After two days of driving through deserted countryside, mountain range of all possible red tones appeared like a miracle in front of me; distinct, multicolored rock layers forming dramatic landscapes span from steep canyons to towering spires. The sunset was especially beautiful and camping in my tent a much more pleasant experience than sharing stinky dormitory in New York City.
Yellowstone National Park was one of the highlights of during my time in the United States. There is no coincidence that Yellowstone was the first national park in the country and it is also widely held to be the first national park in the world.
I spent 5 days exploring dramatic canyons, alpine rivers, lush forests, hot springs and gushing geysers; including its most famous, the Old Faithful.
The park is also home to hundreds of animal species, including bears, wolves, bison, elk and antelope. It was remarkable to meet some of these animals in the natural environment. Yellowstone is the only place in the United States where bison have lived continuously since prehistoric times. I found them extremely peaceful while walking among convoy of cars that stopped in order create a passage for them.
Some of the most important and influential animals in the park are elks. Their presence has played a crucial role in shaping the park’s ecosystem, influencing vegetation growth and determining the materials utilized for dam construction. Yellowstone is also home to two species of bears: grizzly bears and black bears. I spotted a black bear just of the main road, walking lazily as if it was used to many passers-by driving.
Nights were getting chilly, camping was not so much fun anymore. My sleeping bag wasn’t resistant to low temperatures. Even putting on all available clothes, I was still cold, desperately expecting for the sunrise every morning.
Walking on the moon
Craters of the Moon National Park, located in close proximity to Yellowstone National Park, remains significantly less frequented by visitors. A prominent aspect of this geological marvel is the Great Rift, which showcases an exceptionally well-preserved volcanic terrain. The landscape is characterized by exposed fissures, expansive lava fields, intricate lava tubes, craters, and cinder cones, collectively creating a uniquely captivating volcanic expanse on the Snake River Plain in central Idaho.
In a completely different environment, I was feeling as walking on another planet; everything is black, remnants of lava and rocks reminiscent of the surface of the Moon. The meticulous park founders also made the rest of the surrounding buildings in the same style to match the black stones. There are practically no animals and plants are also rare.
My favorite city in the USA – San Francisco
After ten days of driving coast to coast I arrived to the final destination. Without GPS, internet or any other electronic help, I navigated perfectly signed road system with a paper map. I delivered the car to the owners, collected my deposit in the agency and I was free to go. The city of Portland is a modern, representative American city without any mayor attractions according to my criteria. It was more of a stopover to the next destination – my favorite city in the US – San Francisco.
Alcatraz, the Golden Gate Bridge, Pacific Ocean, hippies, homeless and trams are just some of the attractions that have kept me in the area for eleven days. I met quite a few travelers of different nationalities and interests, a former Alcatraz prisoner and talked to homeless people on the streets.
One of the most memorable experiences was the ride in a police car over the famous Golden Gate Bridge. I walked all the way from downtown, crossed the bridge by footpath and stayed on the north side of the bridge for the sunset without realizing that the passenger part of the bridge was closing at 9:00 pm. I had no choice but asking for help to a nearby police officer, who drove me to the other side without any problems.
At a youth hostel, I met an elderly American from Houston, who was making new friends with incredible speed. His recipe for making contact was simple: he came to a stranger and recited simple introductory words: “Hi, I am Don. I want to be your friend. Let’s talk!” So typical self-confidence and fearless approach for American culture.
He reached an agreement with his previous employer to retire early, intending to utilize his free time to explore the United States prior to his wife’s retirement in six months. Subsequently, they plan to embark on a five-month journey to India. Americans are full of lovely stories, which confirm that their homeland is a land of opportunities for hard-working, creative and intelligent people.
The oldest cable car and the crookedest street in the World
Invented In San Francisco a century and a half ago, cable cars were once one of the most efficient ways to get around the town. The San Francisco cable car network is the world’s last manually operated cable car system, primarily dedicated to tourists, who have time to wait and travel slowly on one of the three remaining lines. Riding a tram in San Francisco is a unique experience also because of the impressive views of the bay and Alcatraz on the way to Fisherman’s Wharf.
The Crookedest Street in the World, Lombard Street is a vertically-endowed one-block section of 8 hair-pin turns located in the Russian Hill district. The hill has a natural 27% grade, which was too steep for the automobiles of the day to climb back in 1922 and it could have been dangerous in the downhill direction. The zig-zagging route was a solution to easier the climb, safer for vehicles and pedestrians. Lombard Street did not achieve its iconic status instantly. It was not until the 1960s, three decades after the introduction of the hairpin turns, that it began to feature on postcards.
Walking around the maximum-security federal prison
One of the places in San Francisco that impressed me most, is the former Alcatraz prison. If in the past its famous inhabitants were Al Capone, Machine Gun Kelly and Robert Birdman, today a significant number of tourists travel by boat to this secluded island situated in San Francisco Bay.
From 1934 to 1963 the island served as an Alcatraz Federal Penitentiary, where most of the prisoners were notorious bank robbers, murderers and political terrorists; some of the most renowned criminals in American history. Being too expensive to operate, the prison was closed and abandoned. The American Indians claimed the island, demanding reparations for the many treaties broken by the US government, until in 1972 the area fell under jurisdiction of the National Park Service.
For a walk between the prison cells, each visitor receives audiphones to listen to statements of former convicts and guards.
Despite the fact that the island of Alcatraz is only 2 kilometers away from the coast, according to official records, none of the prisoners managed to escape from the prison alive. Water currents are oriented towards the island and the low temperature of the sea were too much of an obstacle for everyone who climbed the fence of the pound and evaded all security checkpoints and alarms.
One of the former Alcatraz prisoners was answering questions and selling his book where he narrates stories of his time in the prison.
Chasing the stars at Hollywood boulevard in Los Angeles
I bid farewell to San Francisco and boarded the Greyhound bus to Los Angeles. Nine hours drive on a legendary bus surrounded by people who cannot afford to travel by car or fly, is a unique experience that no adventurer should miss. Mostly Latinos and black passengers were eating all the time, drinking huge amounts of Coca Cola, cursing and yelling at each other throughout the journey. The absence of music or television on the bus would render the journey rather boring and very formal without the passengers show.
Los Angeles is disproportionately larger than San Francisco. The city feels even bigger considering extremely inefficient and poorly organized public transport. Due to pressure and influence by car manufacturers, the construction of the subway was abandoned in the 1960s. Buses run relatively infrequently; the distances between one part of the city and the other are huge. I dedicated a significant amount of time to commuting via public transportation from location A to location B.
For the first few days, I was accommodated in a youth hostel on one of the most famous streets – Hollywood Boulevard, where the stars of film actors, singers or celebrities are inscribed in the sidewalk. It used to be one of the most beautiful areas of Los Angeles, but today, it provides a refugee for many homeless, beggars and weird people. One of the more famous American film directors got her own star on the Walk of Fame, but she was unknown to me. At the short ceremony, I pushed my way to the front to get a close-up look at the guests of honor Sharon Stone and Michael Douglas, who got far more attention than the honored director.
In search of an aging actor and sunbathing topless on Venice Beach
I moved to Venice Beach to properly enjoy the Ocean Front Walk and water activities. The area is vibrant, featuring Hare Krishna parade and the renowned section frequented by bodybuilders, overweighed Americans alongside tourists who are drawn to the sight of scantily dressed women on roller skates and athletic joggers. Street artists more or less successfully entertain passers-by with a sole purpose to collect tips, while the artists draw, perform or play all kinds of instruments. The most memorable was the smiling man on roller skates, who convinced more with his colorful appearance than through his guitar playing.
Two bizarre situations happened on Venice Beach. A German girl, sharing dormitory with me, came to Los Angeles to meet her dream actor in order to give him a personal gift. Her only mission during four weeks holidays was to find Richard Dean Anderson, the lead actor in the television series MacGyver that was popular in the eighties. Yes, more than 10 years ago! She was hopping to hug him, kiss him or invite him for dinner. She expressed significant disappointment in me due to my lack of knowledge regarding Richard Dean Anderson.
The other funny thing happened when I was sunbathing on a beach next to a topless girl who was roughed up by a policeman on horseback. “What’s going on with you miss! Don’t you know you’re in Los Angeles? Stop showing off your breasts in a vulgar manner immediately and cover them if you don’t want me to write you the sentence.” So much about democracy and freedom in America!
Finally buying a motorbike
My crucial mission in Los Angeles was to purchase a motorbike that would take me through national parks on the West Coast, Mexico, Central America and all the way to Argentina. I was unsuccessfully trying to make a deal in Philadelphia and San Francisco, but somehow LA was the last stop on my itinerary, where I was still able to travel around on a public transport. I wouldn’t be able to visit national parks on public transport.
I was buying magazines with sale adds, visiting second hand bikes stores, talking to people and bikers. Due to my limited budget, the offer was not matching my expectations. The maximum engine power I was able afford didn’t surpass 250cc.
The owner of Marine Suzuky store, Berry, was a skilled negotiator, much like myself. 2,400US$ was much more than I was willing to pay before staring my Transamerica expedition, but still much less than any other motorbikes of similar characteristics. “I need a luggage carrier, kidney belt, rain clothing and a strong lock for free if I buy Suzuki 250DR at your store!”, was my request, after realizing that he wouldn’t drop the price for the bike. “I don’t understand the world free!”, was a nasty answer from Berry. After five minutes of hard negotiations I started to walk away, when Beery called me: “Rok, come back. It is OK. The deal is done. Tomorrow the bike will be ready. You bloody communist!”
I didn’t care for the compliment as long as my demand was fulfilled. The next day we closed the deal, I registered the motorbike, acquired insurance and fixed a plate to the rear fender. My last slices of one-dollar pizza gave me enough energy to drive out to San Diego Highway heading to Los Alamitos.
A challenging first experience on the highway
It was my introductory ride on a real motorbike and the first time on five-lanes highway. I thought that I would be blown away by strong winds. Cars were overtaking me from all sides and from time to time long trucks were pushing me to the edge of the roadway.
I couldn’t believe that faster vehicles are able to cause so strong headwinds. As soon as I increased the speed over 90 kilometers per hour, I started to be tossed left and right. Preoccupied with safety, I was driving mostly on the extreme right side, consequently ended up in the wrong lane at the wrong moment and missed the right exit.
The initial lessons for beginners proved to be challenging; however, I quickly oriented myself towards the correct path where the acquaintances reside. My plan was to leave part of my luggage before continuing toward north. It was already 4:40pm, so the Bauer couple kindly invited me to spend the night in their luxury house, before continuing the next morning. Of course, I didn’t mind. After two months in dormitories, tents and rundown guesthouses I was thrilled of luxury that a private, clean room offered me. First, I refreshed myself in the pool and later enjoyed a delicious dinner.
After enjoying a hearty breakfast at a local restaurant, the following morning, I embarked on my journey to Sequoia National Park aboard my Suzuki motorbike, carrying a small travel bag, tent, sleeping bag, and backpack slung over my shoulder. An almost brand-new adventure awaited me. The vast unpopulated area and the most beautiful national parks replaced urban areas, while freedom on a motorbike gave me flexibility to plan my activities in different time frame.
Walking among the world’s most massive trees
The first national park I visited was Sequoia National Park. After all day drive, I reached the camp area in the evening. The cost for a single night was set at 12 US dollars, regardless of the number of individuals, tents, or vehicles. The space was enormous, big enough to accommodate an oversized American cars or motorhome. When asking some other people to share the space, they only looked strange at me, denying my proposal.
Due to the closure of the reception, I was required to simply place cash into an envelope, inscribe my information on it, and deposit it in a specified location. The regular price of 12US$ was high, the only alternatives were for disabled people or war veterans. I filled up the envelope with 6 bucks, opted for war veteran discount and never had problems with that. I don’t think it is fair that a motorbike and a small tent pays the same fee as a super luxury camp trailers hosting 6 people.
Impressed by the tallest trees in the world I joined two hours walk with a ranger next day. During free session we walked around the forest, engaged to captivating explanations and facts about these marvelous trees.
- Sequoia wood possesses distinct characteristics that set it apart. Primarily, it is quite soft and delicate, rendering it nearly impractical for processing purposes. Additionally, it contains a chemical compound that provides protection against blemishes. No wonder why the widespread destruction of sequoia trees ceased in the 19th
- The roots are so shallow that sequoias reach only a few meters below the earth’s surface. The primary threat to an aged or towering tree is the potential for it to be uprooted by strong winds or subjected to degradation through erosion.
- Even fire is not a great enemy of sequoia due to the strength of the tree and its low flammability. The ability of a tree to regenerate in such a way that when the top of the tree is broken off the trunk receives enough nutrients to regenerate and grow again. the approach to wildfires shifted from immediate suppression to a more nuanced understanding of their ecological benefits. It became evident that controlled burns could enhance soil quality by providing essential nutrients, thereby promoting faster plant growth. Consequently, park rangers began to intentionally set small, controlled fires within designated areas that they could effectively monitor.
One of the most outstanding landmarks in the area is the General Sherman Tree, the world’s largest tree, measured by volume. It stands 83 meters tall, and it measures over 11 meters in diameter at the base.
The General Grant Tree, located in Kings Canyon National Park, is the second largest giant sequoia tree in the world and is situated just an hour’s drive from the General Sherman Tree. The sequoia reaches a height of 81 meters and has a base width of nearly 9 meters, with an estimated age of around 1,650 years. Walking slowly around the tree with the most exquisite crown and capturing photographs took me a total of 40 minutes.
Yosemite National Park
I continued driving through Kings Canyon to Yosemite National Park. Due to the official camping site being fully occupied, I resorted to wild camping by the stream on the first night, only to awaken the following morning fully covered in mosquitoes. The next day I was able to locate a spot among the tents of numerous climbers who engaged in mountaineering during the day and indulged in marijuana smoke in the evening. I resolutely refused all the offered joints, preferring to cook a hearty dinner on my small stove. With a mini tent, motorcycle, cooktop and limited luggage, I called the attention much more than bus-sized motorhomes or monster trucks with extra-large tents.
At a height of more than 739 meters the Yosemite Falls is one of the tallest waterfalls in North America. Formed by three individual cascades, it can be seen from a range of distances. Another landmark, El Capitan, is a vertical rock formation, iconic granite wall, famous as ultimate challenge for rock climbers’ adventurers. Granite monolith is 914 meters high from base to. I am not a climber nor fit enough to conquer El Capitan, but my new buddy Rob needed three days to achieve it. Late in the night a group of friends seated around small bonfire and listened to his stories about El Capitan and other mountains.
Rob illustrated his achievements, which culminated in climbing a glacier where he slipped and tumbled down the valley at 30, 50, 80, even 100 miles per hour, until he finally came to a stop in the snow. During the fall all his clothes, half of his buttocks, most of the skin from his legs and many other things were torn off. When he showed us his bum, it didn’t look like it was half missing, but he mentioned that the doctors did a really good job of putting him back together.
At 62°C and 86 meters below sea level in Death Valley
I continued my journey towards Death Valley traversing California’s highest elevation highway pass, Tioga Pass, which stands at over 3,000 meters above sea level. Breathtaking views, pristine lakes and sweeping across enchanting Tuolumne Meadows area is accessible only in the summer months.
In a few hours, I descended from an altitude of 3,000 meters to the sea level. The temperatures were slowly rising until the heat became unbearable. It was almost dark by the time I reached the first and only camping area in Death Valley. There were only three trailers in the camp, no tents at all. According to the employee at the information center, it was too hot to sleep in a tent: “Nobody would camp in a tent in the summer!”. “Well, I am very happy to do it at 8 US$ per night!”, I challenged his theory, brave enough to afford a really warm shower (cold water was not available, of course).
I set up my tent, but never used it to sleep. I laid down on a wooden table only in my underwear, watching the stars on the sky and listening to the cats late into the night before falling asleep.
I woke up the next morning even before the sunrise. I was headed to Las Vegas, making stops at various points of interest in Death Valley. Badwater is the lowest point in the USA: 86 meters below the sea level, where the air temperature rises up to 62°C during the day. A small spring-fed pool of undrinkable salty water (bad water) next to the road gave this inhospitable area the name. In the immediate vicinity is the Devil’s golf course, a field of salt, made up of large salt formations that jut out of the barren landscape, extending as far as the eye can perceive. Despite the fact that Americans often exaggerate with the names, everything related to Death Valley is real.
The drive from Badwater area to the park exit was especially terrifying, since there was no petrol station, store, water or house along the road for 100km. I met only ten vehicles in this section and we all greeted each other.
From a small town to a global gambling and entertainment mecca
Las Vegas – the brightest spot on Earth in the middle of the desert, known for gambling, shopping, fine dining, entertainment, nightlife and the tallest observation tower in the USA – the Stratosphere. For me as a backpacker, the most gratifying perk is cheap accommodation and all you can eat restaurants, where for a few dollars you can consume as much as your heart desires and your stomach digests.
Strolling along the main avenue, known as the Strip, is a captivating spectacle. There are countless hotels with casinos, but each one offers something special: Julius Caesar, Sahara, Luxor, MGM and Treasure Island are just some of the most famous establishments. In front of the Treasure Island Hotel I watched The Treasure Island Pirate Show, a real battle between two life-size pirate ships, including theatrics and the show’s pirate pyrotechnics.
I do not consider myself a gambler and do not have disposable income for this kind of entertainment; still, I had planned to spend 10 US dollars at casinos. I walked around the Strip until choosing two of the most attracting casinos, where I changed cash to slots. Casino slots are made for everyone; it’s possible to play for as little as 5 cents. I’ve seen people losing over 1,000 US$ in a minute, smiling and having fun. I only wish that I could entertain them instead, charging a couple of thousand dollars to extend my trip to the most southern part of the continent.
Among colorful hoodoos in Bryce Canyon
After spending three days in the largest city in the world that was created in the 20th century, I continued driving through Zion National Park to Bryce Canyon. I experienced my first encounter with rain while riding a motorbike, resulting in my arrival at the youth hotel completely soaked and suffering from hypothermia.
Bryce Canyon National Park is one of the most outstanding examples of what mother nature can do over the course of millions of years. Stone pillars of various shapes and sizes rise vertically, changing colors during the day at different angles of the sun’s rays. Hoodoos – tall, thin spire of rock formed by erosion stand up as red, orange, and white colors stalactites around giant natural amphitheaters. The most beautiful view is from the Inspiration point, where I also waited for the sunset. At 2,500 meters above sea level it was cold: staying in a youth hostel was a pleasant change to camping out during cold nights.
Capitol Reef National Park is an extensive ridge that stretches for several kilometers, serving as a hidden gem characterized by its cliffs, canyons, domes, and natural bridges. Its distinctive red-brown coloration adds to its uniqueness. During a short walk, I met an elderly man who lives in a small town in southern Arizona, where the average age of the residents is 73 years. Chuck taught me about these small towns, where senior people move after retirement. Offering infrastructure, services and activities targeted to elder generations they are becoming more and more popular.
In the afternoon, I continued driving to the city of Moab, which would be the starting point for exploring the surrounding parks. The sun was almost completely hidden behind the horizon, when I stopped at the edge of the road to take another picture. I was careless when parking my bike and it fell on the ground. After a long struggle, I managed to put the bike on the stand again, but it wouldn’t kick off. It required more than five minutes of persistent kicking before the engine finally restarted.
I met several travelers in Moab, but the most interesting is the story of Arnoux from France. After about an hour of talking, we realized that we had already met in Los Angeles, where we tried to capture Sharon Stone in the camera lens. Arnoux kept yelling, “Sharon, Sharon, look at me!”, while his colleague held him on his shoulders. I remember hearing his voice as well, but I had never talked to him before.
Exploring curved symmetrical structures in Arches National Park
The park is home to over 2,000 natural sandstone arches, in addition to a diverse array of distinctive geological resources and formations. The Arches National Park contains the highest density of natural arches in the world.
I experienced one of the most beautiful sunsets admiring the most famous arch in the park, the Delicate Arch. Over the years, the relentless action of wind and water has eroded the sandstone, leaving behind only a 16-meter-high rock formation in the shape of an arch.
Just prior to sunset, as the arch radiated a stunning red-brown hue, we were all prepared to capture photos. Unexpectedly, two Japanese tourists chose to position themselves directly beneath the Delicate Arch, disrupting the perfect scene. We began to whistle and shout for them to step aside. Eventually, they complied, receiving enthusiastic applause from approximately 50 observers of the sunset.
Grand Canyon National Park
The Grand Canyon stands as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, offering breathtaking vistas. The persistent power of the Colorado River has shaped the Grand Canyon, which extends more than 446 kilometers in length, reaches a width of 29 kilometers, and plunges to depths exceeding one mile.
Nearly two billion years of Earth’s geological history have been exposed until the Colorado River and its tributaries started to cut their channels through layer after layer of rock 70 million years. Being only the third deepest canyon in the world, I had no plans to descent to the banks of Colorado river, but rather observe it from various view points along the ridge.
Around midday I already had my tent set up in the Grand Canyon camp and then drove to one of the viewpoints. What a scenery! Everywhere you look – deep abyss; only somewhere far on the other side rises the North Rim, 25 kilometers away. As clouds started to gather in the sky, I preferred to head to the local store. After I collected a basket full of canned food, I remembered that I had no cooking utensils any more. I put everything back in its place and gathered some vegetables, fruit, cheese and bread.
Late in the afternoon the sky finally cleared up. I drove for an hour to the viewpoint, from where I watched the sunset with many romantic couples. Admittedly, it wasn’t as nice as in Arches Park, but the visibility was brilliant. Driving back to the campground was not pleasant at all. Due to the considerable altitude and afternoon rain, the temperature dropped well below 20°C and caught me off guard. I was chilled to the bone by the time I set foot on the campground.
The next morning, I woke up around 7:00am to reach the central viewpoint before the crowds of tourists arrived. The Grand Canyon is one of the most visited natural parks in the USA, easily accessible in only 4 hours driving from Las Vegas. It wasn’t until I ended up at the museum in visitor center that I realized how big this national park really is. The Colorado River, rolling at the bottom of the canyon, looks like a small stream from the top, but in reality, it takes a lot of courage and knowledge to navigate down its rapids on a rafting boat.
There is roughly 2 kilometers height difference from the top of the precipice to the river’s bank, which means a full day’s walk of 20 kilometers.
I had the opportunity to explore Canyonlands National Park, a remarkable area shaped by the Colorado River, which has carved out a stunning landscape characterized by canyons, mesas, and buttes that define the rugged beauty of southern Utah’s desert. Each distinct section of the park is marked its own unique features. A particularly noteworthy location for witnessing the sunset is Mesa Arch, regarded as one of nature’s extraordinary creations. It is a breathtaking site that seems almost surreal until illuminated by the soft glow of the early morning sun.
Free visa for Mexico
Driving 500 kilometers back to Los Angeles was no big deal. Not even the unbearable heat affected my excellent mood. The luxury of Bauer’s couple house was not to be missed after three weeks of adventure: a warm, comfortable bed, television, newspapers, swimming pool, dinner on the table and no worries about night visitors.
Two days of rest prior to resuming my journey to Mexico proved to be quite beneficial. During this time, I promptly visited the Mexican embassy, where I was delighted to learn that citizens of Slovenia no longer need a tourist visa to enter Mexico. I got the tourist card for free. No mercy by a mechanic, when performing maintenance to the engine though. It costed me 100 US$ to change the chain and oil, charging one hour of mechanic work at steep 50 US$.
Discovering cacti under the intense heat of Arizona
At the end of August, I set off for Mexico. During two days stopover in San Diego I visited one of the most famous zoos in the world, housing 4,000 animals of more than 650 species in the concept of open-air, cageless exhibits that recreate natural animal habitats.
I decided to cross the Mexican border at El Paso, Texas, as it is considerably nearer to Mexico City than Tijuana. This decision allowed me to avoid the costly tolls associated with the Mexican highways.
While traversing Arizona, I stopped at the Biosphere 2 research facility, which was initially designed to showcase the feasibility of closed ecological systems for sustaining human life in outer space as an alternative to Earth’s biosphere. I reached Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument precisely at noon. The temperature was undoubtedly approaching 45 degrees Celsius, possibly even 50; understandably, I was the sole visitor in the area.
Even park rangers avoided the heat at the entry gate, retreating to the air-conditioned central building. Cacti were visible in every direction, varying in size and shape – some large, others small; some plump, while others were slender; some stood tall, and others appeared withered, showcasing a spectrum of green and dry hues.
I never imagined that a cactus could reach such enormous heights. According to my estimates, the largest giant was about 8 meters tall.
The Indians knew how to use cacti primarily for medicinal purposes, for various potions and ointments. Today, their importance in the United States is negligible. Fortunately, the Mexicans are the leaders of this industry, skillfully transforming cactus juice into the renowned beverages of tequila and mezcal. The leaves of a certain type of cactus are an integral part of various rituals or sessions that allow a glimpse into the beyond.
Sleeping in a hotel room situated above the nightclub
Tucson, alongside Phoenix, ranks among the fastest growing cities in the United States. In my view, it represents yet another contemporary American metropolis, characterized by meticulous planning and flawless execution. An urban area in the middle of desert, without high skyscrapers nor people on the streets. Modern Americans don’t even think of walking around anymore. Why bother when there is a car that can take you to the post office 300 meters away? Even though sidewalks are in perfect conditions I hardly ever see pedestrians walking outside of downtown area. Recreational parks are arranged for this purpose.
I checked into a youth hotel situated in the central area of Tucson. It was surprisingly inexpensive for the standards that the room on the first floor was offering. I was tired after driving, walking and sightseeing, exposed to summer heat all day. At 10:00pm I realized why my luxury was so cheap. There was a night club on the ground floor and speakers were installed right under my bed. The whole room started to shake slightly and I had no choice but to accept that the night would be sleepless.
After three months I ended my trip around USA and set off to Mexico with great expectations for new adventures.
Working in South Carolina in 2005
In 2004, I got an offer to work in a branch of a Slovenian corporation in Greenville, South Carolina. A small industrial town is located halfway between Atlanta and Charlotte, far away from glittering cities, mighty state parks or exotic beaches. I was destined to have all the perks an employee could imagine: a luxury car, an apartment, health insurance, free plane tickets to visiting the homeland.
I quickly realized that Americans exhibit a strong sense of punctuality in their work habits, arriving and departing at designated times. After completing an eight-hour shift, which includes a one-hour lunch break, they promptly leave for home, irrespective of the status of their tasks. In fact, it seemed that all work was consistently concluded within that eight-hour timeframe.
As I worked late, I gained a comprehensive understanding of the business operations I was managing and gradually adjusted to a more standard work pace. I had never worked so little and with such a lack of enthusiasm in my career. There seemed to be no reason for me to overexert myself or become fatigued, especially given the employees’ indifference and the ongoing lack of adequate support from the parent company in Slovenia.
I learned to work wisely, devoted a lot of free time to recreation, reading and investing in the stock market. I watched my colleagues become prisoners of junk food, low-quality diet and excessive consumption, which led their indebtedness to the limits or beyond. My personal assistant had already gone bankrupt a few times, the salesman ate canned food every day, the sales manager possessed considerable knowledge; however, he struggled with being overweight and resided alone in a rather unremarkable environment.
I have never encountered a situation where an employee informed me that he was unable to cover the cost of lunch. Our salesman had a solid salary, but due to bad money management he couldn’t afford a decent meal for lunch. I was shocked by fake self-confidence, brainwashedness and naivety of colleagues and crazy acquaintances who only had two weeks of vacation a year.
Through my direct interactions with the local population, I developed a markedly different perspective on the concept of the promised land and the American Dream, as opposed to the narratives often portrayed in the media or experienced during tourist excursions. I gained a sense of self-assurance from the Americans I encountered. On the other hand, I felt a sense of pity for them, as they navigate lives of relatively low quality despite their substantial incomes. This issue becomes increasingly pronounced during times of illness or in old age, as many individuals lack health or pension insurance, which would guarantee them access to complimentary medical care in the case of illness, or at the very least, provide partial coverage for high-risk treatments and medications.
After less than two years I decided to change the continents and move to UK, finishing my working experience in South Carolina.
Stunning volcanic landscape and surf culture of Hawaii
The journey to Hawaii was among the most remarkable experiences I have had in the United States. So far from the mainland, so unique, so different and special, offering a mixture of amazing surfing culture, picturesque volcanic landscape and Japanese influence, which have created an easy-going society, coexisting with the nature and enjoying simple things on a daily basis.
I selected three islands to explore the diverse offerings of Hawaii and to visit some of its most notable landmarks: The Big Island, Maui, and Oahu. I organized all activities and aerial transportation between the island beforehand, utilizing a rented car to traverse the islands.
The Big Island
Hawai’i, commonly referred to as the Big Island, is the largest among the eight Hawaiian Islands, renowned for its extraordinary natural beauty. Along the Kohala Coast, one can discover both black and white sand beaches, as well as the renowned 4-mile Onomea scenic drive, which is celebrated as the most picturesque route on the island.
A visit to the breathtaking Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park was one of the highlights. The park features two active volcanoes: Kilauea, where visitors may occasionally witness flowing lava, and Mauna Loa, recognized as the largest active volcano in the world. Other notable attractions include the petrified lava fields and the Thurston Lava Tube.
While the lava fields may initially seem unvaried, I found the landscape to be utterly captivating. The diverse shades of gray and black, along with the intriguing formations and the delicate, lightweight structure of the petrified lava, were particularly fascinating.
I spent several hours traversing various lava fields, occasionally interrupted by the presence of bushes, trees, or small groves that are gradually taking root on the surface.
Halemaumau crater is famously known as the dwelling place of Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of volcanoes. Situated at the summit of Kīlauea, Halemaumau is renowned for its lake of molten lava, which appears and vanishes like an illusion, captivating both onlookers and scientists for over two centuries.
Prior to 1924, Halemaumau hosted an active lava lake for much of the time and experienced several eruptions throughout the 20th century. Since 2008, the crater has once again contained an active lava lake, with its level typically fluctuating between 20 and 150 meters below the crater floor, although at times it has risen sufficiently to overflow onto the crater floor.
The crater is conveniently accessible from the Kīlauea Visitor Center. However, the weather posed a significant challenge during our visit, as we encountered persistent rain, low clouds, fog, and strong winds, which discouraged extensive exploration around the crater. Nevertheless, I made the effort to walk around the crater to observe a large amount of smoke and gases rising above the large crater.
Mauna Kea is classified as a dormant shield volcano, with its summit rising to an elevation of 4,207 meters above sea level, making it the tallest point in Hawaii. This elevation is less than that of Mount Everest, which stands at 8,848 meters above sea level; however, some experts consider Mauna Kea to be the tallest mountain in the world when measured from its base on the ocean floor.
In Hawaiian culture, the peaks of the island of Hawaiʻi hold significant spiritual importance. Historically, an ancient law permitted only members of the high-ranking nobility to ascend these mountaintops.
Currently, the summit is accessible to the public, but it requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle to navigate the gravel road. Since we had rented a sedan and were not inclined to pay the high fees for organized tours, we opted to hitchhike from the point where the paved road ended at the base of the volcano.
It was not long before an American couple, traveling in a compact jeep, offered us a ride to the summit. Upon reaching the peak, we observed the observatory facilities and encountered several visitors who were battling strong winds and cold temperatures. The summit of Mauna Kea is regarded as one of the premier locations globally for astronomical observation, owing to its advantageous observing conditions.
As I exited the vehicle and made my way uphill, I experienced the effects of the high altitude, accompanied by a slight sense of dizziness. The wind was forceful, making it challenging to maintain walking to the right direction. Just before sunset, the breathtaking view of the barren landscape and the expansive vista of the island was truly remarkable.
Maui Island – standing in the quietest place on Earth
Maui Island is a favorite destination for honeymooners, featuring a dormant volcano crater characterized by its arid landscape, sacred sites, and a tropical oasis adorned with waterfalls along the coastline. The renowned scenic drive along the Road to Hana, which encompasses approximately 600 curves, over 50 bridges, and 60 cascading waterfalls within a span of less than 80 kilometers, is the most highlighted attraction. However, my most vivid memory is of a remarkable location atop the volcano.
Haleakala National Park encompasses the Haleakala volcano, which reaches a summit of 3,048 meters above sea level, presenting a magical vantage point. Within the crater at the summit of this dormant volcano lies a realm of such tranquility that the ambient sounds are nearly at the threshold of human perception. The crater’s depth effectively shields it from the wind, and the barren terrain is largely free from the sounds of rustling plants or vocal wildlife.
I found myself alone amidst the stark desert stone landscape, with no signs of human or animal life in motion. As I surveyed my surroundings, I was captivated by the enchanting scenery and experienced an unusual sensation of profound silence enveloping my breath.
It is challenging to articulate the experience, but it felt as though I could hear my own body: the rhythm of my heartbeat, the cadence of my breathing, and the faintest movements.
Later, I sought additional information about the Haleakala volcano crater and learned that it has been officially recognized as the quietest place on Earth through scientific measurement.
Aloha, beach and ABC store spirit in Honolulu
Oahu island ranks as the third largest of the Hawaiian Islands and is renowned as one of the most popular travel destinations. It presents a haven for active travelers, showcasing stunning natural landscapes, delightful culinary experiences, the lively capital of Honolulu, and, most importantly, the essence of the Aloha Spirit.
While tourists may perceive Aloha merely as a greeting, its true significance for the people of Hawaii extends far deeper. Aloha embodies love, energy, a vital life force, and a profound respect for the earth and all its inhabitants, encompassing expressions of gratitude, compassion, and humility.
My initial destination was the capital city. In Honolulu, I chose not to visit the well-known cultural, historical or architectural landmarks; instead, I immersed myself in the city’s atmosphere, which is more intimately connected to the ocean and the beach than in any other major urban area I have visited so far.
Waikiki Beach ranks among the most popular beaches globally, attracting over four million visitors annually. It is considered one of the premier locations in Hawaii for learning to surf or paddle a canoe, thanks to its manageable yet persistent wave break. The beach is characterized by its vibrant atmosphere, filled with numerous activities and individuals eager to engage with the ocean at any hour of the day.
We too succumbed to this tempting environment and ventured onto a stand-up paddleboard in our new swimwear, attempting paddle boarding for the first time. Initially, I struggled even with the smaller waves, tumbling into the warm water before quickly regaining my balance. Soon, as I observed the more experienced surfers, I found my rhythm and confidently navigated across the bay.
In Honolulu, I noticed the significant Japanese and broader Asian influences evident in culture, cuisine, and the physical characteristics of its residents. Another particular point of interest was the prevalence of the ABC Store, a chain of convenience stores headquartered in Honolulu. This chain operates 73 locations, with 58 situated within Hawaii. The Waikiki area alone boasts 37 stores within a one-mile radius, with a particularly striking example of saturation found at a sole intersection, where four ABC Stores are located at that very crossing. While I do not intend to suggest that the ABC Store lacks merit, it is remarkable how they have established a near-monopoly in downtown Honolulu, effectively diminishing all competition.
Surfing and food trucks scene in The North Shore
The North Shore of Oahu Island, extending approximately 40 kilometers, is a paradise characterized by its numerous beaches, informal restaurants and relaxed ambience. There is no better experience than renting a convertible Mustang, lowering the roof, and leisurely exploring the island without a specific plan.
During the summer months, these beaches are ideal for swimming and snorkeling; however, in winter, they transform into a hub for surf competitions, featuring waves exceeding six meters. My experiences in Oahu revealed that various types of waves attract distinct activities, each suited to specific forms of wave riding, including standup paddle boarding, longboarding, bodyboarding, shortboarding, windsurfing and kite surfing. Typically, I observed that different surfing styles were not commonly practiced on the same beach.
The food truck culture in Oahu is as lively and varied as the island itself. From the vibrant streets of Honolulu to the serene beaches of the North Shore, food trucks provide a unique and delectable experience of island life. These mobile vendors offer a wide array of options, ranging from freshly caught seafood to beloved local specialties such as poke bowls and shaved ice.
The origins of Oahu’s food truck scene date back to the 1970s when innovative locals began selling plate lunches from roadside vehicles. Today, these food trucks have become a vital component of the island’s culinary landscape, reflecting Hawaii’s rich cultural diversity and showcasing the evolution of local cuisine.
During my visit to several renowned food trucks on the North Shore, I enjoyed large shrimp prepared with various sauces and fresh fish accompanied by a special poke sauce. While the prices were comparable to those of restaurants, the relaxed ambiance and the sense of freedom that I cherished on the island of Oahu were nearly as valuable as the delicious food itself.
In commemoration of the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor in 1941
The attack on Pearl Harbor was an unforeseen military operation carried out by the Imperial Japanese Navy Air Service targeting the American naval base located in Honolulu, occurring just before 8:00am on December 7, 1941.
The operation involved 353 Imperial Japanese aircraft, which were deployed in two waves from six aircraft carriers. Among the eight United States Navy battleships present, all sustained damage, with four ultimately sinking. Additionally, over 180 US aircraft were destroyed during the attack. The tragic toll included 2,393 American fatalities and 1,178 injuries, marking it as the most lethal incident recorded in Hawaii’s history.
Japan aimed to significantly weaken the US fleet through this assault, thereby gaining a strategic advantage in the Pacific and Southeast Asia. This event decisively ended the discourse surrounding American involvement in both the Pacific and European fronts of World War II, leading to Congress’s declaration of war against Imperial Japan the following day.
I had the opportunity to visit the USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor in Honolulu, which serves as the final resting place for 1,102 of the 1,177 sailors and Marines who perished on the USS Arizona during the attack, while also honoring the memory of that fateful day. The memorial is accessible solely by boat and is positioned above the sunken hull of the battleship without making contact.
The Sunshine State – Florida – 2015, 2019
Florida was one of the last states that I visited. The Sunshine State with the longest coastline in the contiguous United States is the homeland of theme parks in Orlando area, paradise for sun-seekers, water sports lovers and Latinos. The Everglades Park with a sprawling subtropical landscape offers rich biodiversity and unique ecosystems. The Latino influence, mild climate and Spanish language have moved Florida away from the typical US reality and made it attractive to immigrants and tourists from all over the world.
I have a deep affection for Miami, and at one time, I contemplated relocating to Orlando with my family. Although I have never resided there permanently, I have visited Miami, Orlando, and Daytona Beach on several occasions.
Orlando – the theme park capital of the world
The city of Orlando is located in one of the world’s most visited tourist regions and attracts tens of millions of visitors from across the globe every year. In addition to having year-round near-perfect weather where even the winters are mild, it boasts some of Florida’s top tourist attractions: Walt Disney World Resort, SeaWorld Orlando, Universal Studios, animal parks, water parks and more. Yes, Orlando is the theme park capital of the world! Enormous tourist infrastructure, which support millions of visitors every year reflects in limitless hotels, motels, and resorts in Orlando and the Kissimmee area, where I was based when in town.
Among its four parks, Magic Kingdom Park stands out as the most iconic, often referred to as the happiest place on earth. The park centers around the enchanting Cinderella Castle, which serves as a focal point for the various areas within.
Curiously, my children did not consider it their favorite destination; instead, they reminisced about the long waits for the thrilling rides and the abundance of shops and fast food outlets situated along Main Street.
The special concern was the relatively passive nature of the attractions. Given their boundless energy and desire to move, jump, and play, they found the extended queues tedious, especially since each ride typically lasts less than a minute.
The Animal Kingdom is divided into seven distinct areas, providing visitors with the chance to observe African wildlife in a naturalistic setting, alongside the impressive Tree of Life. This expansive open zoo is home to several endangered species, including black rhinoceroses, hippopotamuses, and gorillas, making it our preferred destination. While the animals do not inhabit their true natural environments, the open zoo concept closely resembles their original habitats.
In the Orlando area, our top choice for an amusement park is Legoland Florida.
Upon our arrival at the venue, I was astonished by the abundance of vacant parking spaces. If on previous days, when visiting Disney attractions, we were obliged to take a long walk before entering the facilities, in Legoland I parked almost in front of the main gate. The kids were actively participating in activities all day, programing robots, drawing, riding a Lego car and of course building Lego bricks. No queuing at thrilling rides gave us a chance to repeat our favorites as many times as we wanted.
The Kennedy Space Center on Cape Canaveral, NASA’s best-known operations center, was on my bucket list for a long time. Since 1968, The Kennedy Space Center has been NASA’s primary launch center of American spaceflight, research, and technology. The exhibition area showcases some of the most remarkable artifacts related to space exploration, including an Apollo capsule, the authentic Lunar Module 9, Apollo spacesuits, the Space Shuttle Atlantis, and the colossal Saturn V rocket, which holds the record as the largest rocket to have ever traveled through space.
Additionally, the tour included a visit to the multi-user spaceport, where I had the opportunity to view the crawler transporter, mobile launching platform, and vehicle assembly building. I was greatly impressed by the sheer size of the rockets and space shuttles, as well as the immense power of their engines and the complexity of engineering.
Miami – The Gateway to Latin America
I visited Miami for the first time in 2004 and since than I have been there various time, mostly for pleasure, but also for business. Even though I don’t consider the city to offer as many landmarks, museums or attractions as New York, Los Angeles or San Francisco, I position it in the top 5 cities to visit in the USA. The essence of Miami lies in its vibrant atmosphere, marked by a relaxed environment, the presence of the sea, and consistently warm weather. This city attracts a diverse population from around the globe, especially from Hispanic backgrounds, while simultaneously preserving the best elements of American culture, resulting in an ideal holiday and living destination.
The modern character of the city has been significantly shaped by the arrival of Cuban refugees since the 1960s. They established a community known as Little Havana, characterized by vibrant salsa music, men engaging in dominoes at local parks, and the rich aroma of café con leche wafting through the air. Today the culinary and artistic landscape of Miami is still heavily influenced by Cuban culture, intermingled with elements from other Caribbean traditions.
Little Havana continues to be a vibrant hub for many Cuban exiles, alongside a diverse population of immigrants from Central and South America. Strolling through the streets, there is a sense of being in any Latin American country, with lively street scenes, an array of restaurants, music, and various cultural activities, all accompanied by the prevalent use of the Spanish language.
One of the nation’s earliest planned developments, Coral Gables, is significantly more upscale; Key Biscayne is renowned for its bustling recreational marinas and stunning beaches, whereas Coconut Grove, Miami’s oldest neighborhood and sailing capital, is characterized by its bohemian atmosphere, Bahamian heritage, and picturesque landscapes.
Fish Bowl cocktail and art deco on Miami Beach
Miami Beach is linked to the mainland of Miami through a series of bridges. The area is renowned for its pristine white sandy beaches, turquoise waters, and a rich cultural scene that integrates some of the finest examples of Art Deco architecture. The Art Deco Historic District in Miami Beach boasts the largest collection of Art Deco structures globally. These architectural designs are often characterized by their representation of technological advancement, resilience, and optimism during the period between the Great Depression and the early 1940s.
After exploring the numerous historic buildings, hotels, restaurants, and shops, we decided it was time to enjoy some food and beverages. It was still early afternoon when we placed an order for fish at one of the renowned establishments along Ocean Drive.
The appealing promotion of buy one, get one free drinks persuaded me to select the famous Fish Bowl cocktail. While the price of 35US$ per glass may seem steep, the value is justified when one considers that a fishbowl can hold up to 1.3 liters of beverage, and the second drink is complimentary. However, the effects of consuming over a liter of cocktail soon became evident. We opted for a leisurely afternoon nap in a nearby park shaded by palm trees before making our way to the iconic beach, where the endless stretch of sand attracts a diverse array of visitors, predominantly Latino tourists.
Seeking the most exquisite murals and graffiti art
During my visit to Miami, one of the most memorable experiences was exploring the Wynwood Walls, an extraordinary urban are filled with striking street art that has extended to include murals beyond the neighborhood itself. Founded in 2009, to promote pedestrian engagement, the Wynwood Walls consist of six buildings that have transformed into a canvas for international, renowned artists from around the world.
I took the opportunity to wander through the area, appreciating the graffiti and street art produced by distinguished international artists. The walls are adorned with a variety of artistic styles, from graffiti quotes and expansive pop art murals to abstract creations and remarkable sculptures, showcasing the unique creativity of the space.
Although there are many lists highlighting the most iconic murals, I believe that nearly all of them are of exceptional quality and reflect the individual viewpoints of the artists. I found myself in awe of these artworks, unable to resist the urge to take numerous photographs. Even though the Wynwood Walls have become increasingly popular, resulting in the establishment of various guided tours, I chose to explore the vibrant neighborhood at my own pace, allowing myself to become fully immersed in its artistic charm.
Everglades Airboat Tour
The Everglades represent one of Florida’s most distinctive ecosystems. Comprising tropical wetlands and sawgrass prairies, this region supports more than 350 bird species, including endangered ones such as the West Indian manatee, as well as numerous crocodiles. I booked one of the typical Everglades tours tour which features an airboat excursion, opportunities to observe crocodiles, and a visit to an alligator farm.
The operator navigated us through narrow river channels, accelerating through challenging curves, and ultimately executed a complete 360-degree turn.
On our slow return journey, we observed several crocodiles in the water. This was succeeded by a display of the rangers’ expertise with snakes and alligators on the farm. Even the youngest attendees were given the chance to hold a non-venomous snake or closely examine the alligators.
Adult male alligators can occasionally grow to lengths of 4 meters. These reptiles play a crucial role in the Everglades ecosystem and are recognized as a keystone species within the park. They can endure a moderate level of salinity for brief periods and are sometimes found in brackish waters near mangrove swamps.
Sum up
The United States of America is likely the nation to which I have returned to most consistently. I travelled it on a motorbike, public transport, rented car and by my own car. I explored the US as an independent backpacker, with my family, as a businessman and I also lived there. From national parks and vast deserts to legendary cities, sandy beaches and resorts, it offers some of the most diverse opportunities to the visitors. To me, it symbolizes a magnet to which I am consistently drawn back. It is indisputable that The United States of America ranks among the top three destinations on the continent.
It might seem too self-confident if I write that I know and understand American culture, but I got to comprehend it more closely than most of its inhabitants, let alone visitors. I love the country, but I am not fond of the people. Arrogance or opinion on everything clearly show the fear to say “I don’t understand!” or “I don’t know!”. The extremes of poverty and wealth, well-educated and ignorant people are aligned with the common mentality of black and white answers.
The country could be a paradise, but it is not for many of the minorities that struggle through their lives on a daily basis. I consider the nation brainwashed through educational system, administration of finance, a consumer-driven mentality and alteration of eating patterns. The American Dream encompasses a collection of ideals such as representative democracy, individual rights, liberty, and equality, wherein freedom is understood as the potential for personal prosperity or achievement. In my view, this concept has not been fully realized across society as a whole.
Interpersonal relationships have emerged as a critical issue; neighbors often remain unfamiliar with one another, racial tensions manifest as a black man verbally assaults a white man, who doesn’t tolerate Mexican immigrants, etc. It is important that the boss of the family owns a large vehicle, the mother an expansive refrigerator and a car, children the last iPhone and a car, and the family consistently finds their refrigerator well-stocked, with an additional vehicle available in the garage. This overwhelming focus on materialism and greed is threatening the very essence of humanity.