Jamaica

My Jamaica travel summary:

Visited: February 2025

Duration of visit: 7 days

Capital city: Kingston

Population: 2.9 million (2025)

Jamaica travel blog reading time: 15 minutes

• Attending a reggae party, admiring street murals and strolling through Coronation Market in Kingston.
• Learning about Bob Marley legacy in Trench Town and Bob Marley Museum.
• Gaining insights into Rastafarianism at the Bobo Hill Rastafari community.
• Visiting multiple beaches on the northwestern shore.
• Swimming in turquoise waters at stunning Negril Seven Mile Beach.
• Navigating through narrow and poorly maintained roads.

Among the 35 countries I traveled to in the Americas, Jamaica was the last one I visited. Although known for reggae, Bob Marley, and famous athletes, the country is not considered a leading tourist destination. Therefore, I didn’t have high expectations.

Though small, Jamaica has made a strong global impact. It is known for white sand beaches, reggae, Rasta culture, warm weather, friendly people, and top athletes. Beyond luxurious hotels and Caribbean charm, the unique attraction is also the burgeoning cannabis scene.

I started my Jamaica travel adventure at Kingston airport with my partner after a short flight from the Bahamas. We took a taxi to New Kingston, the more modern and structured part of the capital.

I made my temporary home in a gated community, where outdated apartments were elegantly positioned in a scenic tropical environment, featuring palm trees, small swimming pool and traditional architectural features.

Since 2008, the month of February has been officially recognized as Reggae Month, featuring many events and concerts.

What better way to start exploring Jamaica than a night at Stone Love reggae club, with DJs playing music late into the night. I enjoyed reggae music, local rum, and lively conversations between people of different ages and backgrounds.

Before arriving in the capital, I heard many people say Kingston is not worth visiting.

“Don’t go there. It is dangerous, people smoking everywhere!”

It is probably not the most beautiful city in the world, but I liked Kingston. The first impression of people in the downtown was very positive. Taxi drivers were honest and helpful, and people on the street were polite and respectful.

During afternoon rush hour, traffic was fairly light and mostly limited to certain streets. New Kingston is more upscale than Trench Town and downtown, with offices, restaurants, and homes.

Usain Bolt is celebrated as Jamaica’s most successful athlete, having achieved a remarkable set of Olympic medals and repeatedly broken world records in the 100m and 200m runs. His unique running style, athletic talent, and famous victory pose made him a global sports star.

While exploring how his legacy is honored in Kingston, I found his monument beside other famous athletes at the National Stadium.

The monuments dedicated to Usain Bolt, Astafa Powell, Veronica Campbell, Marlene Ottey, and other Jamaican sprinters celebrate Jamaica’s achievements in one of the most competitive athletic disciplines, short-distance running.

After his successful sports career, Usain Bolt opened Tracks & Records restaurants serving Jamaican food, including jerk platters, burgers, sides, and cocktails at rather high prices. Even on quiet weekdays, I enjoyed the sports bar atmosphere and athlete images, which made dining very pleasant.

Coronation Market is Jamaica’s largest and most vibrant marketplace, with many goods sold at much lower prices than elsewhere on the island. It is busiest on weekends with crowds of vendors and buyers. I found it pleasant during the week, with well-organized stalls and sections.

For me, the main highlights were a wide selection of fruit juices and advanced pushcarts used to transport goods.

In Jamaica, natural juices are made ahead and sold chilled in half-liter bottles. They use not only fruits but also plants like beetroot, soursop, aloe vera, pumpkin, sorrel, turmeric, and cucumber. Ginger is often added, which improves the taste but can be very strong.

I saw homemade pushcarts all across Jamaica, not only in markets but throughout the country. People use them to transport goods, run small moving food stalls, and even race them in push cart derbies.

Pushcarts have a deceptively simple design, using a rope for steering. However, they are very practical, easy to use, and can carry much more than a wheelbarrow.

I haven’t spotted similar models in any other country around the Caribbean or wider.

The Bob Marley Museum is a major cultural landmark and popular tourist attraction. Bob Marley bought the house in 1975 and lived there until 1981. Six years later, Rita Marley turned it into a museum showcasing Bob Marley’s personal belongings in a 19^th-century-style building.

No photos are allowed inside the museum, which can be visited only as a part of organized, guided tour. Our guide was very knowledgeable and explained several details about Bob Marley’s career, the way he wrote and composed songs, his relationship with women and kids. As I moved through the rooms, I admired details of his achievements, interests, and work in politics, sports, and culture.

In 1976, an attempted assassination of Bob Marley happened here. I saw the bullet marks still visible on the wall as the guide narrated the story.

While Bob Marley was preparing for a concert, an unidentified gunman fired shots at him, believing the event was a political protest. He also hit Bob Marley’s wife Rita and manager Don Taylor. Fortunately, all three survived without serious consequences.

My tour ended in a souvenir shop, and the guide mentioned a hidden back area where marijuana is sold. While it is common in Jamaica and linked to Bob Marley, I do not find this cultural practice appealing.

Bob Marley was one of reggae’s pioneers and a Jamaican icon. He deserves a few lines in my blog too.

Bob Marley was known for his unique voice and songwriting, and he also became a Rastafarian icon, bringing spirituality into his music.

The legendary hits like I Shot the Sheriff, One Love, No Woman No Cry, Get Up Stand Up, Could You Be Loved and others, popularized the Jamaican music genres Ska, Rock Steady and Reggae across the whole world.

Robert Nesta Marley was born in 1945 in Nine Miles, where African traditions and stories were preserved. As a teenager, he moved to Trench Town, Kingston, and learned self-defense to survive street violence.

Marley started his music career in 1963 with Teenagers group, later The Wailers, formed with Peter Tosh and Bunny Wailer. In 1965, they released their debut album The Wailing Wailers, featuring One Love, which brought them global recognition and established them in reggae.

The breakthrough came in April 1973 with the album Catch a Fire, followed by tours in the UK and US. The life of Bob Marley was changed forever. He became a global reggae ambassador, also helping spread Rastafarian beliefs worldwide.

Bob Marley spread messages of hope, justice, and unity worldwide through his music, irrespective of race, color or creed. He sold over 75 million records and became the first global superstar from the developing world. His 1984 album Legend became the best-selling reggae album of all time.

On the 11^th of May, 1981, Marley passed away from cancer at the age of only 36. He was diagnosed with melanoma in 1977, but it worsened due to lack of adequate treatment.

In 1981, Jamaican authorities awarded Bob Marley the Order of Merit for his cultural impact. In 1994, he was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame along with Elton John and John Lennon.

While researching Bob Marley’s legacy, I was moved by Bono’s 1994 speech inducting him into the R&R Hall of Fame. He summarized many roles that Marley played during his short life in the following words:

“Bob Marely didn’t choose or walk down the middle. He raced to the edges, embracing all extremes, creating a oneness. His oneness. One love. He wanted everything at the same time. Prophet. Soul rebel. Rastaman. Herbsman. Wildman. A natural-mystic man. Lady’s man. Island man. Family man. Rita’s man. Soccer man. Showman. Shaman. Human. Jamaican!”

I saw Bob Marley’s influence on every corner during my Jamaica travel adventure. Art, murals, souvenirs, and music everywhere show his lasting impact and Jamaica’s global recognition.

Rastafari culture and reggae music have tied cannabis (ganja) consumption to Jamaica’s public image. At any time of the day, I noticed people smoking or preparing a joint, without hiding or considering it outrageous. Cannabis is widely accessible in Jamaica, though it is predominantly consumed among men.

Although still officially illegal, small amounts were decriminalized in 2015. Locals may grow up to five plants for personal use.

Public smoking remains illegal, but ganja tourists are common and rarely targeted by police.

I often wondered, how marijuana became so popular in Jamaica.

The trend started with the Rastafarian community, which used cannabis in spiritual ceremonies, meditation, teas, and herbal products. Marihuana helps them to connect with God and facilitates meditation. Over time, ganja spread across the island, helped by Jamaica’s rich soil and ideal climate for cultivation.

I don’t consume or buy marijuana, but people told me the quality has improved greatly and low prices made it widely accessible. Outside heavily touristed areas like Negril, I rarely noticed dealers or received offers to buy it.

One of Kingston’s top attractions is Trench Town. A knowledgeable taxi driver explained that the neighborhood was built around shared courtyards, kitchens, and toilets used by nearby residents.

“Trench Town is very poor, and many bad things happen there, especially at night. You should be careful, but nobody wants trouble with tourists,” he told me.

“So, I can walk around by myself?” I asked.

“People may harass you, offer guidance, products, or services, but they know causing problems for visitors would bring serious consequences.”

His instructions helped me to feel slightly more relaxed when touring this southern ghetto, which began life as a much-prized housing project erected by the British in the 1930s. The area of Trench Town is widely credited as the birthplace of ska, rocksteady and reggae, as well as sports, religious and political personalities. Famous studios and Trench Town’s role in civil and social rights struggles made the area historically important.

Despite its fame and cultural importance, Trench Town does not offer a comfortable standard of living. The simple houses and basic infrastructure may inspire rebellion, music, sports, and creativity, but it is not a place where I would stay longer than necessary.

Trench Town’s most famous resident, Bob Marley, lived here during his early music career and co-wrote the immortal song “No Woman, No Cry”.

I admired the huge, colorful murals and facades filled with messages of peace and love. Artists regularly renew paintings that cover entire houses and walls. Even without specific places to visit or things to do, I really enjoyed the area.

Some Rastafari communities on Jamaica’s west coast welcome tourists on expensive guided tours that show their lifestyle, activities, and beliefs. I was looking for something different – pristine, noncommercial, a real community where I could learn about this popular Jamaican religion.

Thirty minutes east of the capital, I stopped in Bull Bay, a rather unappealing town, and struggled to find a decent lunch option.

Mainly pork, chicken, and goat are grilled at open roadside stalls every few kilometers across the country. These jerk spots are clearly signposted and often use old iron barrels creatively turned into BBQ grills.

I didn’t have a lot of expectations to find non-meat options, when finally opted to eat in one of these simple restaurants. The mix of conch, okra, vegetables, and jerk sauce with crackers was delicious, but the restaurant itself was not particularly inviting.

I asked the chef about visiting nearby Bobo Hill, home to a Rastafari community.

“No problem. You can visit them. You turn to the right after the bridge and continue up-hill!”

“Is it safe?” I wondered after reading about recent security issues, police raids, and reports that criminals may hide there.

“No problem, you can go,” he said. “The man who was here a few minutes ago lives in the community. You’ll see him walking uphill.”

As soon as I spotted a man with characteristic dreadlocks, I offered to drive him to Bobo Hill. He happily accepted and explained a few things about Rastafari culture over the next few minutes. Due to strong accent, I had troubles understanding him.

My unannounced visit surprised the community, but one of the Rastafarians living there welcomed us. The spokesman said Friday is Shabbat and they were too busy to guide us. However, following a brief communal prayer, he welcomed us to the reception area and shared some information with us.

Rastafari is a religious and political movement that originated in Jamaica during the 1930s, merging elements of Protestant Christianity, mysticism, and a pan-African political awareness.

They believe that they are being tested by Jah (God) through slavery and the existence of economic injustice and racial oppression. Rastas read the Bible selectively. They live a balanced lifestyle, which includes wearing dreadlocks, following a vegetarian diet, practicing religious rituals, and smoking ganja to achieve better results in meditation.

I saw photos of important figures and a sign for the Ethiopian Embassy in Jamaica on a tree at the entrance. Key images included Haile Selassie, seen as the Black Messiah, and Marcus Garvey, a political leader and prophet.

Our host explained that Ethiopia is considered the true home of all Africans and the seat of Jah, so repatriation is the goal. Rastafarians believe Emperor Haile Selassie I, crowned in 1930, is the messiah and the Second Coming of Christ who came to redeem Black people.

During the conversation, the spokesman kindly called us empresses and kingsman, which confused us so much that it took a while to realize he meant us.

He wrote our names in the guest books, asked for donations and offered simple souvenirs.

“5 USD, empress!” was a fix offer.

“I don’t buy souvenirs, but the empress will take one,” I said before we continued our Jamaica travel adventure to northeast.

While the best beaches are in western Jamaica, there are also several nice ones near Port Antonio.

One of the most famous, Frenchman’s Cove, disappointed me with its $16 entrance fee, which I considered too expensive.

Instead, I drove a few kilometers to the Blue Lagoon surrounded by rainforest. I swam in the lagoon, where warm and cold water mix in a strange way. A simple platform made a good spot to jump into the sea.

Winnifred Beach has white sand and clear blue water, though rocky areas can make swimming difficult. The sea was not very warm, but the sandy spots were perfect for a quiet morning on one of the few free beaches in the area.

Unfortunately, I arrived too early to enjoy the bars and restaurants, which later serve drinks and local food in a reggae-style setting with Bob Marley decorations.

Boston Beach is one of the few beaches in Jamaica that attracts surfers. Its waves are ideal for surfing, but there are also calmer waters for swimming. Nearby, I walked to the famous Boston Jerk Center, where restaurants serve pork and chicken with jerk seasoning. Boston Jerk Center is considered the birthplace of spicy jerk seasoning.

Jerk is a Jamaican cooking style where meat is dry-rubbed or marinated with a hot spice mix – jerk spice.

The ingredients of jerk seasoning are a mystery, but it includes allspice and Scotch bonnet peppers, along with other spices.

The smoky taste of jerk meat comes from different cooking methods, including wood-fired ovens. I chose jerk fish instead of chicken or pork. It was cooked in foil over an open fire, then topped with sauce and served with plantains. Delicious.

The western part of Jamaica attracts more tourists than the east, especially around Montego Bay, Ocho Rios, and Negril. A change in my plans stopped me from visiting the area, but I didn’t feel I missed much. I prefer to avoid artificial places to visit and fake things to do made only for tourists.

I drove from Kingston to Negril in a rental car. First on a good toll highway, which later turned into a narrow, winding, and sometimes poorly maintained road. I often slowed down due to heavy traffic and careless drivers, while the road often felt more like a dirt track than a main highway.

Negril, the westernmost town on the island, is a paradise for beach lovers, known for its sunsets, 7-miles white sand beach, and clear blue water. It is often ranked among the world’s best beaches.

As I walked along the beach, I noticed a very different approach to tourism compared to the quieter eastern part of the island. Luxury hotels, resorts, international restaurants, and many services. The most frequent offers I received were for marijuana, massages, and water sports.

Seven Mile Beach is phenomenal, with white sand, turquoise water, and a shallow, calm sea that feels like a fairy tale. Prices are high, as expected in such a location.

Despite the wide culinary offer in the beach restaurants, I decided to have lunch at a local place on Norman Manley Boulevard, recommended by a local masseuse. Sweet Spot Restaurant gave me the chance to try the authentic Jamaican dish ackee and salt cod fish. The originality of the dish comes from the way these contrasting ingredients blend together into a delicious meal.

On the way to Treasure Beach, I stopped at Rick’s Café, where tourists come in large numbers for food, drinks, cliff jumping, and sunsets. In the early afternoon, the place was already crowded. I wondered why a huge American-style bar and restaurant is considered a top attraction.

Why would someone come to Jamaica just to watch tourists jumping into the water?

Locals seem more focused on tips than on performance.

My final destination, Treasure Beach, was almost empty and quiet, with only a few visitors and not many things to do. The idyllic sunset and the sound of Caribbean waves led me to stop at the Lion Rock beach bar.

“Stiggy, the owner, is not here, but let’s have a drink and chat!” my new friend Daniel said, inviting me into the simple beachside restaurant-bar.

“There used to be more visitors here before, but Treasure Beach hasn’t recovered since the Covid-19 pandemic!”.

I was pleased with the peaceful atmosphere of Treasure Beach, good conversation, cold beer, and a superb sunset. It was a great place to finish my Jamaica travel adventure.

Jamaica turned out to be a pleasant surprise as a travel destination, boasting remarkable landmarks, a variety of highlights, and plenty of things to do. Although many warned me to skip Kingston, I consider it a must-visit to truly understand the country.

From start to finish of my Jamaica travel adventure, I met easygoing, honest people who provided me reliable information.

Despite millions of tourists visiting Jamaica each year, I did not see a significant positive impact on the economy or quality of life. Jamaica remains poor and far from a paradise for a majority of locals. Many rarely enjoy the Caribbean Sea, as they either cannot swim or cannot afford access to the best beaches.

The creative spirit of Bob Marley, tranquil rhythms of reggae, the success of Usain Bolt and the mesmerizing marijuana fumes portray Jamaica as a paradise destination.