Jamaica

Visited: February 2025

Duration of visit: 7 days

Capital city: Kingston

Population: 2.9 million (2025)

Estimated reading time: 19 minutes

• Attending a reggae party, admiring street murals and strolling through Coronation Market in Kingston.
• Learning about Bob Marley legacy in Trench Town and Bob Marley Museum.
• Gaining insights into Rastafarianism at the Bobo Hill Rastafari community.
• Visiting multiple beaches on the northwestern shore.
• Swimming in turquoise waters at stunning Negril Seven Mile Beach.
• Navigating through narrow and poorly maintained roads.

Among the 35 countries I traveled to in the Americas, Jamaica was the last one I visited. Taking into account that the country of reggae, Bob Marley and famous athletes is not recognized as a leading tourist destination, I approached my trip in 2025 with rather low expectations.

Although Jamaica is relatively small in size compared to some of the most powerful states around the globe, this island nation has made a significant mark on the global stage. Regardless of the location, many people are familiar with some of the highlights that the island has to offer: white sand beaches, Rasta, sunny weather, friendly people, reggae music and top athletes. Beside luxurious hotels and Caribbean charm, the unique attraction is also the burgeoning cannabis scene.

I landed at Kingston airport with my partner after a short flight from disappointing Bahamas and took a taxi to New Kingston, the contemporary and better structured section of the Jamaican capital. I made my temporary home in a gated community, where outdated apartments were elegantly positioned in a scenic tropical environment, featuring palm trees, small swimming pool and traditional architectural features.

Since 2008, the month of February has been officially recognized as Reggae Month, featuring a variety of events and concerts primarily held in and around Kingston.

What a better start of Jamaican exploration than a night out in a famous reggae club Stone Love, where various deejays were rolling music late into the night. I immersed into the gentle tempo of reggae music, the pleasure of consuming local rum, and observed the vibrant discussions that occur among friends from various age groups and cultural backgrounds.

Before arrival to the capital city I heard many stories that Kingston is not worth the visit.

“Don’t go there. It is dangerous, people smoking everywhere!”

It is probably not the most beautiful city in the world, but I liked Kingston. The first impression of people was very positive. Taxi drivers were honest and helpful source of information, random passersby were polite and respectful.

During the afternoon rush hour, the traffic jam appeared to be relatively mild, localized to specific streets or districts. The New Kingston area is considerably more upscale than the areas of Trench Town or downtown, housing many government offices, excellent restaurants secluded residential areas and well-managed traffic. I walked around leisurely.

Usain Bolt is celebrated as Jamaica’s most successful athlete, having achieved a remarkable set of Olympic medals and repeatedly broken world records in the 100m and 200m runs. His distinctive running style and remarkable athletic talent, highlighted by his signature victory celebration pose, made him a prominent figure in the global sports arena.

When investigating how his enduring legacy is honored in Kingston, I found out a monument located alongside those of other esteemed athletes at the National Stadium.

The monuments dedicated to Usain Bolt, Astafa Powell, Marlene Ottey, Veronica Campbell, and other Jamaican short-distance runners underscore the significant accomplishments of Jamaicans in one of the most competitive athletic disciplines.

After his successful sport career, Usain Bolt started his business career by launching a chain of Tracks & Records restaurants, offering authentic Jamaican cuisine, including the Jerk Platters, burgers, an assortment of side dishes and a wide range of cocktails at rather high prices. Despite the restaurant’s relatively quiet attendance during the week, the sports bar environment, enhanced by captivating images of famous athletes, turned out to be a pleasant dining experience.

Coronation Market is the largest and most vibrant marketplace in Jamaica, where a diverse range of products sell at much lower prices than anywhere else on the island. A typical busy atmosphere of vendors and buyers is apparently at its peak on the weekends. I found it very pleasant during the week. Most of the formal stands are well presented and organized in products sections.

The main highlights for me were a wide selection of fruits juices and the advanced pushcarts to transport the goods.

Natural juices in Jamaica are prepared in advance and sold in half-liter plastic bottles, properly chilled. These are not made only of traditional fruits, but also of alternative plants, which I rarely enjoy in this form: beetroot, soursop, plum, aloe vera, black sapote, pumpkin, sorrel, turmeric, cucumber, beetroot and more. In many recipes, ginger is added, which only enhances the taste, but can also be very strong.

Pushcarts are homemade carts that can be seen not only on the markets, but all across all Jamaica. They are used to transport merchandise, as a moving restaurant for selling food, or as a racing cart in Push cart derbies held across the island.

The design of pushcarts is deceptively simple, relying on a rope for directional control. Nevertheless, they are exceptionally practical, user-friendly, and can carry a much larger load than conventional wheelbarrows.

I haven’t spotted similar models in any other country around the Caribbean or wider.

The Bob Marley Museum occupies the former residence of the iconic musician, which he acquired in 1975 and lived in until his death in 1981. Six years later, in 1987, his wife, Rita Marley, initiated its transformation into a museum. The museum, characterized by its 19^th-century architectural style, showcases the personal artifacts of Marley.

No photos are allowed inside the museum, which can be visited only as a part of organized, guided tour. Our guide was very knowledgeable and explained several details about Bob Marley’s career, the way he wrote and composed songs, his relationship with women and kids. As I traversed different rooms, I admired many details of his achievements, interests and dedication to important causes, including those related to politics, sports, and culture.

In 1976, an unsuccessful assassination attempt was made on Bob Marley at this location. I observed the bullet marks, which remain visible on the wall, as the guide narrated the story.

While Bob was preparing for a concert, an unidentified gunman, viewing the event as a political protest, fired shots at the singer from the rear of the residence. Bob sustained a gunshot, only wounding his arm, while his wife Rita and his manager Don Taylor were also hit. Fortunately, all three survived without serious consequences.

The tour ended in a souvenir shop, but the guide informed us about a semi-hidden place in the backside, where quality marihuana was on sale as well. While marihuana is part of everyday life of many Jamaicans, highly appraised by Bob Marley as well, I do not find this cultural practice particularly appealing.

Bob Marley was one of the pioneers of reggae, an icon of Jamaica. Therefore, he deserves a few lines in my blog as well.

Bob Marley was renowned for his distinctive vocal and songwriting style, but at the same time he also became recognized as a Rastafarian icon, infusing his music with a sense of spirituality.

The legendary hits like I Shot the Sheriff, One Love, No Woman No Cry, Get Up Stand Up, Could You Be Loved and others, popularized the Jamaican music genres Ska, Rock Steady and Reggae across the whole world.

Robert Nesta Marley was born in 1945 in a rural community of Nine Miles, where many past traditions and storytelling from their African ancestry were still preserved. As a young teenager he moved to Trench Town (Kingston), where he quickly learned the skills of self-defense to protect against the violence on the streets.

Marley began his music career in 1963, after forming the group Teenagers with Peter Tosh and Bunny Wailer, which later became The Wailers. In 1965, they released their debut studio album, The Wailing Wailers, which included the single One Love. The song gained worldwide popularity and established the group as a rising star of reggae. The Wailers released 11 more studio albums, and later changed their name to Bob Marley and the Wailers.

The real breakthrough happened in April 1973, after releasing the Catch A Fire album, which was followed by the international tours of United Kingdom and the US. The life of Bob Marley was changed forever. He was celebrated as a global reggae ambassador who had internationally popularized Rastafarian beliefs.

Bob Marley’s creativity became the foundation of inspiration that spread messages of hope, justice, and understanding around the world, irrespective of race, color or creed. As a world ambassador for reggae music he sold more than 75 million records throughout his career, making him the first international superstar to emerge from the so-called Third World. The greatest hits album Legend was released in 1984 and became the best-selling reggae album of all time.

On the 11^th of May, 1981, Marley passed away from cancer at the age of only 36. He had been diagnosed with melanoma in 1977, but the lack of adequate treatment allowed the illness to worsen significantly.

Bob Marley was recognized by Jamaican authorities in 1981 for his outstanding contribution to Jamaican culture, receiving Jamaica’s Order of Merit – a high honor awarded to Jamaican citizens who have achieved notable international success. In 1994, Bob Marley was posthumously inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame along with Elton John, John Lennon and Rod Stewart.

When I was doing research about Bob Marley legacy, I was touched by the close up of Bono speech in 1994 to induct Bob Marley into The Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. He summarized many roles that Marley played during his short life in the following words:

“Bob Marely didn’t choose or walk down the middle. He raced to the edges, embracing all extremes, creating a oneness. His oneness. One love. He wanted everything at the same time. Prophet. Soul rebel. Rastaman. Herbsman. Wildman. A natural-mystic man. Lady’s man. Island man. Family man. Rita’s man. Soccer man. Showman. Shaman. Human. Jamaican!”

The significance of Bob Marley is clearly visible throughout Jamaica. Countless artworks, murals, souvenirs, inscriptions, and his music can be found on nearly every corner, reflecting his unique charisma and originality that have positioned Jamaica as a prominent nation on the global stage.

Cannabis consumption, locally known as ganja, plays a prominent role in the Jamaican public image, being tied to cultural touchstones such as Rastafari and reggae music. At any time of the day, I noticed people smoking or preparing a joint, without hiding or considering it outrageous. It appears that cannabis is accessible to individuals of all ages and economic backgrounds, though it is predominantly utilized by men.

In the past, marijuana was not only criminalized but also demonized, until the introduction of personal use regulations in 2015. Currently, cannabis is officially illegal in Jamaica. However, possessing small amounts is not considered an offense. Furthermore, locals are allowed to cultivate up to five cannabis plants for personal use.

While the public consumption of marijuana remains illegal, ganja tourists have been welcomed in the 21^st century and are not pursued by law enforcement.

I asked myself many times, how marihuana became so popular in Jamaica?

It appears that the trend was set, when Rastafarian community began to cultivate a deep appreciation for this herb, incorporating it into their spiritual ceremonies and daily lives. Apparently, marihuana helps them to connect with God and facilitates meditation. When they started to smoke and use it for teas and converted it into ointments, ganja quickly spread around the whole island. Rich soils and ideal climate guarantee perfect conditions for the successful cultivation.

I don’t consume, neither buy marihuana, but I was told that the quality of ganja has improved a lot and the low price made it accessible to almost everyone. In locations outside of the heavily touristed areas, such as Nabil, I have not noticed dealers, nor I was offered the product.

One of the top attractions in Kingston that receives significant promotion is Trench Town. A very knowledgably taxi driver shared information regarding the neighborhood, built on a plan of communal courtyards with toilets and kitchens to be shared between neighbors.

“Trench Town is a very poor neighborhood, where a lot of shit happens. Especially at night. You should be careful, but at the same time aware, that no one will hurt a tourist.”

“So, I can walk around and explore the area by myself?” was my question.

“People may harass you, offer you guidance, products or services, but they know that if making problems to a foreign visitor they would be in huge troubles.”

His instructions helped me to feel slightly more relaxed when touring this southern ghetto, which began life as a much-prized housing project erected by the British in the 1930s. The area of Trench Town is widely credited as the birthplace of ska, rocksteady and reggae, as well as sports, religious and political personalities.

Despite the fame and glory, it doesn’t impress with adequate standard for comfortable lifestyle. Simple houses and basic infrastructure might be inspiring for rebellion, cultural ideas, sport or art creativity, but it is not the environment, where I would spend more time than necessary.

The most famous resident, Bob Marley, lived in Trench Town for most of his early music career, where he co-wrote immortal songs No Woman No Cry.

I was impressed by huge and beautiful colorful murals, facades covered with messages of peace and love. Some of the colorful paintings cover the whole houses or walls and seem to be regularly renovated.

Well-established studios and Trench Town role in the fight for civil and social rights, made the areas famous and historically important.

Certain Rastafari communities located on the western coast of Jamaica welcome tourists interested in engaging in costly guided tours that showcase the lifestyle, activities, and beliefs of Rastafarians. Nevertheless, I was looking for something different. Pristine, noncommercial, real community, where I could be introduced into this popular Jamaican religion.

Just thirty minutes east of the capital, we made a stop in the rather unappealing town of Bull Bay, where we faced challenges in finding an acceptable lunch option.

Predominantly pork, chicken and goat meet open grills are strategically positioned every few kilometers along the main roads or streets all around the country. The so-called jerks, are highlighted in large letters to advertise the grill restaurants, each of which features refurbished old iron barrels that have been ingeniously adapted for use as BBQs.

I didn’t have a lot of expectations to find non-meat options, when finally opted to eat in one of these simple restaurants. The unique combination of conches, okra, vegetables, and jerk sauce accompanied by crackers was delightful, yet the restaurant comfort was not particularly inviting.

I approached the chef to inquire about a visit to the nearby Bobo Hill, which is home to a Rastafari community.

“No problem. You can visit them. You turn to the right after the bridge and continue up-hill!”

“Is it safe?” were my doubts, after reading about recent security issues, police raids and the provision of refuge to criminals from Kingston.

“No problem. You can go. The guy who was here some minutes ago, lives in the community. You will see him walking uphill.”

As soon as I noticed the man with characteristic dreadlocks, I proposed to drive him to Bobo Hill. He happily accepted it, and explained us a few things about Rasta culture during the next minutes. Due to strong accent, I had troubles understanding him.

My unannounced visit surprised the community, but we were welcomed by one of the Rastafarians living there. The spokesman clarified that Friday is Shabbat, indicating that they were too busy to show us around. However, following a brief communal prayer, he graciously welcomed us to the reception area and shared some information with me and my partner.

Rastafari is a religious and political movement that originated in Jamaica during the 1930s, merging elements of Protestant Christianity, mysticism, and a pan-African political awareness.

They believe that they are being tested by Jah (God) through slavery and the existence of economic injustice and racial oppression. Rastas read the Bible selectively. They live according to the principle of balanced lifestyle, which includes the wearing of dreadlocks, following vegetarian diet, practice religious rituals and smoking ganja to achieve better results in meditation.

I spotted the photos of some important personalities on two boards at the reception office and a sign of Ethiopian Embassy in Jamaica on a tree at the entrance. The most important are images of Emperor Haile Selassie of Ethiopia – the black messiah and rebirth of Christ, and Marcus Garvey – a black political leader and the prophet.

“Ethiopia is the ultimate home of all Africans and the seat of Jah, therefore, the repatriation is our goal. Rastas believe that the Ethiopian emperor Haile Selassie I, crowned in 1930, is the messiah and Second Coming of Christ who returned to redeem all Black people!” could our host’s explanation.

During the conversation, the spokesman kindly named us empresses and kingsman, which was so confusing that we needed quite some time to realize that he was actually referring to us.

He wrote our names in the guest books, asked for donations and offered simple souvenirs.

“Five American dollars each, empress!” was a fix offer.

“I don’t buy souvenir, but the empress will take one,” was my final decision, before we continued our trip to the northeastern part of Jamaica.

While the most stunning beaches are found in the western region of Jamaica, there are several noteworthy options to discover near Port Antonio.

One of the most renowned, Frenchman’s Cove, put me off with its steep entrance fee of 16 US$, which I cosidered to be excessive.

Instead, I drove only a few kilometers further to stop at the Blue Lagoon surrounded by rainforest. I didn’t soak in a shallow pool with natural spring water, but preferred to swim in the lagoon itself, where the water feels very peculiar, mixing warm and cold. A rather unattractive platform served me as an excellent spot to jump into the warm sea.

Winnifred Beach was located only 5 minutes ride from my Airbnb apartment, downhill through the tropical rainforest. A breath-taking beach with fine, white sands and mesmerizing blue waters is interrupted with rocky areas, which are not the most appropriate for swimming. Although the sea was not really warm, the patches of sand with crystal clear water were perfect to enjoy the quiet morning on one of the few free beaches in the area.

Unfortunately, I was there too early to fully enjoy the bars and restaurants, which are beautifully adorned in a reggae theme featuring Bob Marley motifs, serving refreshing beverages and local dishes in the afternoon.

Boston Beach is one of the few beaches in Jamaica, that attracts surfers. A small bay is known for constant waves that breaks in a perfect form for surfing, but still allowed me swimming in more calm waters closer to the beach. Due to the location close to the village, I walked to the famous Boston Jerk Center, where several restaurants offer pork and chicken dishes, seasoned with famous jerk seasoning.

Boston Jerk Center is considered the birthplace of the spicy jerk seasoning. Jerk is a style of cooking native to Jamaica, in which meat is dry-rubbed or wet-marinated with a hot spice mixture called Jamaican jerk spice.

The ingredients of jerk seasoning are a mystery, but it principally consists of allspice and scotch bonnet peppers, while many others are added.

The smoky taste of jerked meat is achieved by using various cooking methods, including modern wood-burning ovens. Since I don’t consume chicken or pork, I choose a jerk fish. The fish is wrapped in aluminum foil and after being cooked on an open fire, it is additionally seasoned with sauce. Combined with plantains, it was delicious.

The western region of Jamaica attracts significantly more tourists compared to the eastern part, particularly in the areas surrounding Montego Bay, Ocho Rios and Negril. An unexpected change in my travel plans prevented me from visiting Montego Bay and Ocho Rios; however, but I feel that I did not miss significant experiences.

I traveled from Kingston in a rental car, initially along a well-maintained toll highway. The road soon transformed into a winding, narrow route that was in certain areas dangerous and sometimes inadequately maintained. If on the highway I was stopping at toll booths, I frequently paused in small towns and villages, because I was forced to reduce speed when encountering audacious drivers. In some parts, the road resembles a dirt road more than the main highway which crosses the third biggest island in the Caribbean.

The westernmost town on the island, Negril, is a haven for beach lovers, famous for its beautiful sunsets, 7-mile stretch of bright white sand beach and picturesque cliffs overlooking clear blue water. No wonder, why the Negril Beach has been rated as one of the ten best beaches in the world.

Just a walk along the beach suggests a completely different approach to tourism than on the relatively unpopulated eastern part of the island: luxury hotels, resorts, restaurants with international cuisine and a whole pallet of services, which were offered to me during the walk. The most persistent and frequent are providers of marijuana, massage and water sports activities.

The Seven Mile Beach is truly phenomenal. White sand, turquoise, warm and shallow calm sea are like from a fairy tale. The prices are high as befits such a location.

Everyone was friendly and unobtrusive during the midday hours, as they probably noticed from afar that I'm not one of those Americans who take advantage of every possible option for overpriced excursions on vacation, but rather deliberately avoid kitschy tours and services.

Despite the wide culinary offer in the restaurants along the beach, I decided to have lunch in a restaurant along the famous Norman Manley Boulevard, which was recommended to me by a local masseuse. Sweet Spot Restaurant offered me a great opportunity to try the authentic Jamaican dish: ackee and salt cod fish. The originality of this dish come from the remarkable way these two contrasting ingredients blend together to create a delicious meal.

On the way to Treasure Beach I stopped at the famous Rick's Café, where tourists are driven in hundreds, to combine drinking and eating at overpriced bar-restaurant, cliff-jumping and sunset-watching.

Although I was there in the early afternoon, the crowd was already big enough. The café with all extensive infrastructure made me wonder, how such a place could be described as one of the top attractions. I can't imagine coming to Jamaica with the intention of watching overweight and sunburned American tourists, jumping into the water or loudly exhibiting half naked bodies, while the local divers are more interested in who will offer them a bigger tip than in the artistic execution of their jumps.

My final destination, Treasure Beach, was almost empty and quiet. The idyllic sunset, accompanied by the sounds of the Caribbean Sea encouraged me to stop at the beach bar Lion Rock.

“Stiggy, the owner, is not here, but let’s have a drink and chat!” my new friend Daniel invited me to the simple restaurant-bar, located right on the beach.

“There used to be more visitors here before, but Treasure Beach hasn’t recovered since the Covid-19 pandemic!”.

I was pleased with peaceful atmosphere of Treasure Beach, interesting conversation, cold beer and superb sunset. A great place to finish my Jamaican adventure.

Jamaica turned out to be a pleasant surprise as a travel destination. Although many had warned me that I should rather skip the capital city due to unattractive and unpleasant vibe, I consider Kingston a must to visit for anyone, who wants to understand the country properly.

From the first to the last moment I was interacting with easy going and honest people, who were providing me reliable, correct and straightforward information.

Although millions of tourists visit Jamaica every year, I haven’t seen a considerable positive impact on Jamaican economy or quality of life in the areas I visited. Jamaica is poor and far away from being a paradise for Jamaicans. They hardly explore the beautiful Caribbean Sea, since majority of them don’t know how to swim or are not willing (or able) to pay the entrance fees to access the most beautiful beaches.

The creative spirit of Bob Marley, tranquil rhythms of reggae, the success of Usain Bolt and the mesmerizing marijuana fumes portray Jamaica as a paradise destination.