Saint Vincent and the Grenadines

My Saint Vincent and the Grenadines travel summary:

Visited: November 2017

Duration of visit: 4 days

Capital city: Kingstown

Population: 112.000 (2017)

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines travel blog reading time: 5 minutes

• Exploring Kingstown with Swedish backpackers facing constant harassment.
• Some of the top beaches in the Caribbean.
• Snorkeling with turtles and sailing in Tobago Cays.
• Bequia – where perfect sandy beaches and off shore banking walk hand in hand with whale hunting tradition.

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines was part of my Caribbean Islands Trip in 2017.

Idyllic, white sand beaches, uncluttered by tourist exploitation, sky blue turquoise water and plenty opportunities for water sports: diving, snorkeling, sailing and wind surfing. No wonder that Pirates of the Caribbean movies were filmed here.

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines (SVG) are probably the most fantastic examples of what we imagine, when we envision the Caribbean islands.

Before landing at Argyle International Airport, I organized a transfer to my Airbnb accommodation located on the outskirts of Kingstown. This proved to be a wise choice, as taxi availability was scarce and the fares were exorbitantly high.

Although I believe the Caribbean offers limited attractions beyond the ocean and sea-related activities, I always take time to explore the capital cities. They frequently reveal a lifestyle that is entirely distinct from the idyllic beaches.

A short stroll around the capital, Kingstown, which feels more like a banana town, revealed the misery and the wealth of this tropical paradise. I didn’t notice any real landmarks or must-see places to visit. Watching daily life unfold on the streets turned out to be far more interesting.

Lazy locals were hiding in shadows waiting for anything to happen, playing domino or cards to kill the time. It was late in the afternoon when I strolled through the streets with my new friends, Johan and Anna. I had met them only a few hours earlier at the airport.

The blond-haired Scandinavian girl instantly became the main attraction for the local drunkards. They kept yelling and whistling at her as we walked by.

The next day, I travelled by ferry to Bequia Island, known for gorgeous white-sand beaches. Just the right size waves on a beautiful beach called my attention and entertained me for some time. I didn’t have any intention to explore the island further of Port Elizabeth, where the ship docked.

After a nice swim, I sat down on the deck of a perfectly located bar with the view over the sandy beach in the bay and ordered a cocktail. I found this place perfect. Hidden in the middle of nowhere, it felt beautiful, tranquil, and far away from daily life.

A bank in the vicinity immediately caught my attention.

The Bank of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines is likely one of the institutions where offshore companies open accounts. Many wealthy citizens from developed countries deposit their savings there to avoid paying high taxes at home.

Another important feature of Bequia is whale hunting. The whalers of Bequia carry out their historical and cultural activity of whale hunting with quota of four whales per year since 2013. They reached this quota only twice, using traditional hunting methods and basic tools. Harpoons, lances, bombs and guns have remained unchanged for more than 140 years.

Union Island was my base to explore Tobago Cays and catch a boat to Grenada. Tobago Cays are part of a national park and offer some of the Caribbean’s best diving and snorkeling. I booked a trip with an old wooden sailing boat. The captain picked me up at the airport when I arrived early in the morning on a short flight from Kingstown.

I was the last passenger of the crew to board the vessel that day. Besides me, there was only an American family. The seven of us had a tremendous historic wooden sailboat all to ourselves for the entire day.

We stopped at beautiful sandy beaches to swim. The clear water with its incredible visibility was warm and calm. Snorkeling with turtles, colorful fish, and vibrant corals was absolutely fantastic.

The bay filled up with private sailboats for most of the day, but I still found it enjoyable.

We were laughing to the father of American family, when he was sharing his stories with strong Texan accent. The family come to Barbados on holidays every year. They rented an airplane for a day trip to Tobago Cays and enjoyed the experience of sailing and snorkeling. In the late afternoon, they flew back to Barbados.

The primary way to travel between Caribbean islands is by plane. The only real exceptions are the ferries in the French Antilles and the connection between the Grenadines’ Union Island and Carriacou in Grenada.

I connected with a boatman in the southern part of Union island to agree on details about the sea crossing to Grenada. Troy treated me well and even arranged a place for me to sleep before I caught a boat early the next morning.

I stayed in a non-touristic part of Union Island. There was no luxury, no hotels, and no restaurants—just the simple daily routine of villagers working to survive. They didn’t bother with me at all. I ate a decent dinner in a small local restaurant and chatted briefly with a few guys who were already deep into their rum. Once their conversation became impossible to understand, I knew it was time to head to bed.

The next day, I walked to the pier at 7:00am, as agreed with Troy. Nobody else was around. Since his boat was moored for buoy, the only bad scenario could be that he would not be navigating to Grenada that day.

Soon enough, other passengers and assistants started to show up and my doubts were cleared up. By 9:00am, the boat was fully loaded, the passengers were comfortably sited, the sky was clear and the water calm.

I continued my Saint Vincent and Grenadines travel adventure by boat to Grenada. The two-hour ride on Troy’s boat with locals and some cargo wasn’t the most enjoyable, but it was fair enough for the price.

Saint Vincent and the Grenadines are among the most popular Caribbean islands, offering real paradise beaches, superior snorkeling, diving and sailing. I met sailors, who were anchored in waters around Bequia island for months, without doing anything in particular. Just enjoying the tranquility, clean water, peace and easy-going atmosphere.

The main island with the capital of Kingstown is not particularly pleasant, with the exception of St. Vincent’s highest peak, La Soufrière volcano.

I hope the flow of tourists to Saint Vincent and the Grenadines remains under control so the islands can maintain their untouched, paradisiac atmosphere. The peaceful beaches, relaxed rhythm, and natural beauty should stay preserved for future travelers and locals.