Mexico

Visited: September – November 1996, March 2001, January 2004, June 2016

Duration of visit: 100 days

Capital city: Ciudad de Mexico

Population: 123 million (2016)

Estimated reading time: 35 minutes

• Exploring Mexico on a motorbike for almost 3 months gave me a close perspective to places that I could never visit otherwise.
• Mexico DF – ancient Aztecs capital inspired me with a mighty blend of flavors, scents, history, people, and charisma.
• Aztecs, Mayas, Toltecs and other ancient civilizations that left remains in the form of archaeological sites with fascinating history: Teotihuacan, Chichen Itza, Oaxaca, Palenque, Cobá, Tula,
• Yucatan peninsula – a perfect mix of exotic beaches, great infrastructure and historic landmarks.
• Mexican food and drinks; corn, chili and tequila.
• Business meetings at Secretaria de Relaciones Exteriores – SRE, discussing possibilities of business cooperation.

The world’s most populous Spanish-speaking country is known for spicy food, historic ruins, exotic beaches, precolonial cultures, mariachi and one of the biggest cities in the world. At 2,240 meters above sea level, the capital Mexico City is the America’s oldest city, slowly sinking due to the fact that it was built over the ruins of the great Aztec city Tenochtitlan, located on a lake.

Mexico is also home to around 4,800 jaguars and 35 UNESCO World Heritage Sites including archeological ruins, ancient Mayan cities, colonial towns and natural wonders. The largest pyramid in the world is not located in Egypt, but … yes … in Cholula, dedicated to the god Quetzalcoatl.

What about tequila and mezcal? The famous Mexican drinks are produced from blue agave (tequila) and white agave (mescal). Mexican cuisine, based on corn, often spicy, has developed over a thousand years and it is today widespread all around the globe.

No wonder why Mexico is the world’s 7^th most visited country, with 45 million foreign tourists visiting Mexico annually (2023).

Rather than listing the astonishing facts, attractions, and details about this exceptional country, I prefer to state that Mexico is simply a country that must be visited. Without any doubt, I can include it in my top 5 favorite travel destinations.

There was only one country in the world that I really wanted to visit as a university student in the early 1990s. Pre-Columbian civilizations on the territory of Mexico had awakened my interest in discovering overseas territories.

The ancient civilizations of Mexico lasted for around 2,500 years. The Aztecs lived in central Mexico between the 14^th and 16^th centuries, the Mayans were present across the northern part of central America and the south of Mexico since 2,600 BC and had a much more advanced linguistic system than the Aztecs.

Combined with Mexico DF, which was built on the ashes of Tenochtitlan and the famous city of Teotihuacan, this was a source of inspiration to graduate ASAP and star chasing my dreams.

I connected Mexico to other Mesoamerican ruins all the way to Incas territories in Peru in order to create a long overland trip from the USA to Argentina. American Big Tour was officially created.

Two years of hard working and saving money as a student created a budget that would allow me to explore the American continent in 1996.

United States of Mexico is a country of extremes and travelling around it on a motorbike was definitely one of the highlights of my travelling experience, that gave me motivation for further adventures and changed me forever.

Similar to Brazil, Mexico is huge with enormous market potential, but challenging to do business. It doesn’t matter in which field of economy or area of the country. All the competitors are there; most of them are presented by the corporation subsidiaries directly. All companies want a share of this huge market with high growth.

My first business attempt with power tools was quickly ended due to a stubborn domestic partner, who wanted to nag rather than cooperate. The second intent, with security documents, lead me to the highest government institutions in the country, which was an important experience for my personal development in this area, as well as a great starting point for other Central American markets.

Mexico was part of my American Big Tour, which started in New York and finished in Buenos Aires 15 months later. I entered Mexico for the first time at El Paso – Ciudad Juarez border, crossing on a motorbike.

I had to arrange an insurance policy for my motorbike and soon realized that my credit card was considered a debit card in Mexico. Having a credit card, I would have paid 11.00US$ for insurance, I could travel for 3 months around Mexico and exit to Guatemala. Unfortunately, according to custom officials my only options to explore Mexico on a motorbike would be the following:

1. Transit visa for two weeks, which would me allow to continue towards Guatemala and South America, but I would have only 14 days to explore Mexico.
2. Three months permit for Mexico conditioned to exit at the same border crossing back to the USA.

After being stuck at the border for two days, analyzing options and trying to unsuccessfully squeeze through customs at different checkpoints, I realized that the only viable alternative was Option 2.

Two weeks for a country that was one of the highlights on my cross American trip were simply not enough. At that stage, my Latin-American overland trip on a motorbike was already falling apart; and I was only crossing the first border on the way to Argentina.

Upon completing a three-hour drive, I arrived in the city of Chihuahua. I quickly realized that highway tolls were exceeding the cost of petrol. I decided, that from now on, I would continue travelling on local roads, despite the fact that they are in much worse condition or could be unexpectedly transited by cattle or wild animals.

Tired of all problems on the border, I stopped in a roadside motel, where I paid only 6.00US$ for a decent private room with a toilet and a garage.  After three months in the United States, where a bed in a youth hostel costs in average 15.00US$, this was a real relief.

I already liked Mexico much more than in the morning, when dealing with the immigration officers.

The first captivating stop in Mexico was the village of Creel, a starting point for the largest canyon on the American continent – Barrancas del Cobre – Copper Canyon.

The town of Creel is a real paradise for budget travelers; I stayed at the most recognized backpackers’ guesthouse, where a bed in a dorm room, breakfast and dinner costed under 3.00US$. The real challenge was to access the center of the village from the main road; crossing a river stream and later 30 centimeters high concrete escarpment while passing over the railway line, forced me to use all the skills that I l had earned with my Suzuki DR 250 motorbike.

Barrancas del Cobre reminds of The Grand Canyon, the biggest difference being green landscape full of trees and bushes, while access is possible only by train or along poorly maintained dirt road. I opted for the second option, which allowed me to meet all sorts of animals, people and use the freedom to stop where I wanted in order to observe the beautiful nature.

Comprising several extensive canyons, Barrancas del Cobre is four times larger than the Grand Canyon in the United States, while being narrower, deeper, and lusher. The canyon system consists of six separate canyons, with Urique Canyon being the most profound at a depth of 1,870 meters.

When I passed walking people on the way, they usually stopped completely to look at me, wave, hitchhike or wish me buen dia. Tarahumara Indians are small, shy natives, famous for their long-distance running ability, so walking for miles is part of their daily life activities.

I met many travelers from all over the world in Creel. They are very different from tourists and backpackers I had been frequenting in the United States, where usually foreigners travel on a very high budget, but limited time to spend.

The most outstanding person was Jenny, a British girl, who had been traveling around the world for 10 years and had already experienced all sorts of things: from kidnapping in Russia to an attack by wild dogs in Bolivia. She had a rather bad opinion of Slovenia, as she did not know exactly what its modern history was. After I briefly explained to her a few things about the land on the sunny side of the Alps, she evaluated me.

“You don’t look like a motorcyclist at all. You seem to be normal. Bikers are usually more interested in their bikes, then what’s going on around them!”, was her interesting compliment.

I believe she was right, since I used a motorbike only as a transport vehicle, which enabled me to explore the most remote parts of Mexico.

The distance from Creel to Mexico City is considerable, spanning nearly 2,000 kilometers along primary roadways. The typical routine over the course of four days involved rising at approximately 8:00 AM, having breakfast, preparing for the day, and then driving until nightfall, with breaks for fuel and meals. By the evening, I often felt so fatigued that I would simply collapse into bed and quickly fall sleep.

Despite the fact that the roads are mostly flat and reasonably well signed, navigating them can be an adventure. Too many potholes kept me alert and, at the same time there is a danger that a horse, mule or cow grazing on the side of the road would jump in front of me at any time. I overtook cyclists, pedestrians or horses on the highways; on various occasions a careless farmer with his mule crossed the road.

Small villages are a special story. Many inhabitants were gathered in front of their residences, along the road, or on the sidewalks, attentively watching the vehicles that went by. As I drove past, they frequently halted their tasks and looked at me in awe.

As soon as I stopped in a local grocery store or restaurant, people gather around me. A relaxed conversation created mutual interest for each other.

My motorcycle also called a lot of attention by young soldiers at random checkpoints. They never checked my luggage or documents; we talked mostly about motorcycles, football, my adventure and Mexican girls.

I soon realized that children in rural areas of Mexico live very different from kids in developed countries. I became aware of this fact in one of the hotels where I stopped overnight. At the age of 13, Miguel managed the reception area, with the assistance of his 7-year-old brother, attending to guests while their parents were at work.

When checking in, I politely asked, where the boss was. He proudly answered: “I am the boss.” After completing the formalities regarding the accommodation, he told me that his idol was Michael Jordan.

Throughout a serious conversation he was unable to find any positive remarks about current Mexican president, Ernesto Zedillo.

If a teenage boy concludes that politics in Mexico sucks, there must be some reason in it.

I arrived to the capital Ciudad de Mexico (Mexico DF) during the heaviest afternoon traffic jam. No navigation, no maps, only a short list of five hostels, as options to stay in downtown. Extremely small road signs and the challenging one-way street configuration in the city center proved to be far more complex than I had anticipated.

I had hard time finding any of the hotels on the list, but I was lucky to drive just next to Zocalo – the central square. The temperature within my bike jacket was becoming increasingly uncomfortable; however, I was fortunate enough to discover a nondescript motel that offered a secure garage, conveniently located just a short walk from Zocalo.

I parked my motorbike in the garage and used the wide network of public transport to move around the city and the outskirts during my whole stay in the capital.

Mexico City government is especially proud of a wide network of subway system (el Metro). It was built in the late 1960s and today carries almost 4 million passengers a day. Besides being efficient and accessible from any part of this huge city, it offers (according to billboards) the cheapest ride in the world (1 peso per ride, which equals to less than 0.10US$).

I spent the next week wandering around, exploring and trying to understand the most populated city in the world.

According to unofficial data, in 1996, Mexico City reached a population of over 25 million inhabitants, with an estimated 2,000 people migrating to the city every day.

Over the next decade, the city will connect with the surrounding suburbs into a single metropolis with 35 million inhabitants.

As many as a quarter of people in the megacity are traders, so the most captivating situations happen on the streets. Snack bars with food and drinks are on every corner, street vendors sell all sorts of goods; meanwhile, cars, buses and taxis continuously sound their horns.

I was particularly impressed by traffic police officers calmly standing in the middle of intersections, whistling and flapping their arms as if they were elegantly conducting an orchestra and not directing thousands of vehicles in chaotic traffic. Their rhythm was calm; under control … despite traffic lights working normally.

The Zocalo, as the central square, has been a prominent site for gatherings since the Aztec times. It has witnessed human sacrifices at its ceremonial center, military parades, Independence Day celebrations, religious festivities, and has served as a venue for important events venue important national events and meetings. This is the place where the present and past of Mexico intertwine.

In ancient times the Aztecs founded the city of Tenochtitlan, which was uniquely positioned in the middle of a lake and connected to the mainland by five bridges. In the 16^th century, the Spaniards arrived, killed most of the indigenous population, demolished Tenochtitlan to the ground and from its remains built the largest church on this continent – the Metropolitan Cathedral.

On the opposite side of the square is the Government Palace, where important decisions about the future of Mexico are taken. Zocalo is just one block southwest of the Templo Mayor, which was considered the center of the universe according to Aztec mythology.

Among the numerous sellers of souvenirs, food, and beverages, the indigenous people particularly caught my attention.

Dressed in their traditional clothing, with feathers adorning their heads and rattles on their feet, they presented captivating traditional dances that highlight their rich cultural heritage.

Their position in a circle around a vase from which incense wafted into the air, symbolize planets circulating around the sun. They performed different movements through dance choreography that illustrates various elements, which played an important role in their lives: water, fire, sun, etc.

During my stay in Mexico DF the nation celebrated its Independence Day, recognized as the most significant national holiday, on September 15^th. In the evening, the main fiesta took place at Zocalo. Crowds of people gathered at the main plaza and the surrounding streets, partying, tasting traditional food, singing and enjoying the blasts of small paper pieces and flour-like dust.

At exactly 11:00pm President Zedillo shouted a few words from the government palace, terminating in “Viva Mexico!”. The enthusiastic crowd loudly cheered. After the bell from the Catedral Metropolitana rang, a spectacular 15-minutes fireworks display followed and the party continued late into the night.

A friend from Slovenia joined me in Mexico DF. After three months, I received fresh information about what was happening in my homeland and I could speak Slovenian language again. Life became easier, I no longer had to worry about luggage and the motorbike only by myself. She would stay with me for a month.

The primary objective of my journey to Mexico was to explore the remnants of the ancient Aztec and Mayan civilizations.

After spending two weeks navigating the northern regions and exploring Mexico City, I was set to visit Teotihuacan, which is recognized as one of the most well-preserved Aztec cities.

This archaeological site includes some of the most prominent Mesoamerican pyramids built in the pre-Columbian Americas, specifically the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon.

It was my first bus ride in Latin America and I didn’t know what to expect. 60 kilometers in one hour was exciting; our bus was in very poor condition. Most of the windows were broken, engine noise was at such high level, that it was impossible to chat with other passengers, but I didn’t care. I was going to the place I had dreamed of for the last three years.

The City of the Gods was one of the most important Aztec cities with over 125,000 inhabitants in the first half of the first millennium, the largest settlement in Mesoamerica.

Teotihuacan is considered as the first advanced civilization in North America.

One of smaller pyramids is dedicated to the highest Aztec deity, Quetzalcoatl, while the principal buildings are devoted to the Sun and the Moon.

With a height of 63 meters, the Pyramid of the Sun exhibits a circumference that is quite similar to that of the Great Pyramid of Giza, yet it is only half as tall. One of the highest buildings in Mesoamerica, stands along the Avenue of the Dead. The paint and plaster which were covering the pyramids in the past are no longer there. As I climbed to the top on steep stairs, I easily immersed myself in the role of emperor, overlooking the entire city and its surroundings.

While walking around the pyramids and temples of the archeological zone, we flirted with various sellers of souvenirs and jewelry. The most persistent was an older man with a bag full of obsidian statues. Obsidian – a naturally occurring volcanic glass formed when lava extruded from a volcano cools rapidly with minimal crystal growth – was one of the most commonly used materials for making tools and jewelry in Aztec times.

First, the vendor offered me a large statue with the image of Quetzalcoatl for 400 pesos (30.00US$). I explained to him that I was a student with little money and just couldn’t afford such an expensive souvenir. “No problem; what about this one?“, offering me a little smaller statue in more aggressive way. This one was also too expensive for me; actually, I didn’t even have any intention of buying souvenirs at this stage of my journey.

The process continued with a few smaller versions, until the smallest one came up:

“65 pesos, only for you amigo!”

To get rid of him, I offered 15 pesos and headed on. The man was still yelling after me:

“60, 50, 40, 30, 20” and finally “OK amigo, 15”.

I had no choice, but to accept his offer, which was extremely favorable. I was probably his first customer that day. This is the usual scenario for bargaining in Mexico, and I have frequently encountered instances where I purchased items I had not initially intended to buy, albeit at a reasonable price.

My stay in Mexico City extended beyond a month, during which I thoroughly explored numerous landmarks, sightseeing venues, and fascinating features of this sprawling urban center. Below is a list of attractions that simply couldn’t be missed:

• Anthropological Museum (Museo Nacional de Antropología) is one of my Top 5 museums in the world. It presents the history of all Pre-Columbian civilizations in the territory of Mexico and contains the world’s largest collection of ancient Mexican art. Ethnographic exhibits about Mexico’s present-day indigenous groups is also on display.
• Xochimilco – Mexican version of Venice or Amsterdam is a network of canals, left from what was an extensive lake and canal system that connected different Aztec settlements in the Valley of Mexico before the arrival of Spaniards. A group of friends or family usually rent a boat with a music group playing mariachi music. Food, drinks, sweets and any other ingredients for a nice excursion, party or mariachi music are offered by sellers on passing canoes.
• Tula was the capital of the Toltec Empire between the fall of Teotihuacan and the raise of Tenochtitlan. The central attraction features four towering Toltec warriors, each armed with a spear thrower, located at the apex of the Pyramid of Quetzalcoatl. These impressive basalt sculptures, measuring four meters in height, provide a commanding view of the surrounding valley.
• Street food can be found on almost every corner in Mexico City. Tacos, corn dishes, enchiladas, pozole, chicken soup, sandwiches (tortas) or rice with a fried egg can be find on many formal or informal places. Nevertheless, the true essence of the city’s renowned food culture is best experienced in its approximately 400 public markets. Among these, Mercado de la Merced is one of the largest and oldest markets, Mercado Medellin offers wider Latino experience, while Sullivan Market over the weekend provides delicious snacks tacos and quesadillas.

The last day before leaving Mexico DF towards the Yucatan Peninsula was intentionally planned as a rest day. In fact, I wasn’t capable of doing anything else at all; headache, abdominal pain, malaise and lack of appetite reduced my daily routine to swap between dormitory and toilet. Probably the cause was a mix of circumstances: spicy diet from local markets, air pollution and high altitude at 2,240 meters above sea level; or the powerful energy gathered by the Aztec gods in archeological sites.

The next day, I rearranged some of my belongings on the motorcycle and left the rest at the hotel.

While arriving in the largest city on the American continent was a formidable task, navigating a motorcycle on the way out presented an even greater challenge.

Three or four lanes, traffic lights every few kilometers, aggressive trucks overtaking me, potholes, honking … and an extra person in the back seat.

Our trip to the suburbs lasted two hours, and we had only just started to face the challenging road conditions. As the afternoon drew to a close, rain began to fall, which hindered our progress and required me to make an early stop.

El Tajin was a city dedicated to the worship of the rain and thunder god, serving as the cultural and religious metropolis for the Totonac people, while also being influenced by other pre-Columbian tribes.

The Pyramid of the Niches exemplifies the distinctive architectural features present in the expansive complex of temples, ball game courts, and plazas.

This beautifully restored building, which showcases a delightful interplay between horizontal and vertical elements, features 365 niches spread over seven stories. This design choice reflects the number of days in the solar calendar, emphasizing the building’s astronomical and symbolic significance.

Another important structures in the archeological site are ball courts, which were used for Mesoamerican ball game, called pok-ta-pok.

Players, dressed in special costumes, tried to hit a rubber ball through two stone rings, located high on the side walls. The whole torso and hips were allowed to be used, but without arms, legs and head. The ball was allowed to be passed between players in each team by propulsion, but it was not permitted to touch the ground. Sometimes the game was continuously played for 5 hours and the result was still scoreless draw.

The game had not only a sport purpose, but also an important role in a ceremonial process.

It is not exactly known which team was awarded the main prize, but it is proven that the reward was incomprehensible to the present day: the entire team was sacrificed to the gods.

Certainly, the practice of offering sacrifices to the gods was considered a distinguished privilege in those times.

In addition to the archeological zone, I also had a chance to observe Danza de los Voladores – Dance of the Flyers. Four voladores – male Indian performers, are tied with a rope around their legs and hang from a 30 meters high pillar. Four dancers launch themselves tied with ropes around the ankles. They slowly rotate with open arms around the support column and slowly descend towards the ground. A fifth person remains on top of the pole, dancing and playing a flute and a drum.

The ritual is performed only in remote villages these days, but according to the myth it was created to request the gods to end a severe drought. I consider the greatest hero to be a flute player who, elevated on a pillar, engaged in a mesmerizing performance of dance and music, without any form of safety or restraint.

A stop at Gulf of Mexico in the beginning of October, was perfect to enjoy high waves in the warm sea, that transformed me into a playful child for a few moments. A modest, unnamed village serves as a significant weekend retreat for local tourists while also being a robust agricultural community.

While swimming, a tractor with tillage tools drove by on an isolated sandy beach. It was obvious that the closest way from fields to farmers homes was via the beach. In the meantime, the workers were also jumping into the sea, refreshing after hard work and looking for conversation with a gringo in town.

A short drive to the nearby city of Xalapa was dedicated to appreciate the enormous Olmec colossal heads exhibited in the Museo de Antropología de Xalapa. Measuring from 1.5 to 3.4 meters and weighting between 6 and 50 tons. They represent human heads of mature individuals with fleshy cheeks, flat nose and slightly-crossed eyes.

The heads were sculpted from basalt boulders during Olmec civilization, dating from 900 BC. They probably symbolize powerful male leaders and were transported around for ritual purposes. Considering the technology available at that time, it must have been a very demanding activity for which the strongest men showed their abilities.

When it was time to continue the trip, it started to rain. Although operating a motorbike in the rain is generally neither easy nor enjoyable, it did not affect us in any way. 800 kilometers in two days was a tough challenge. The journey extended significantly beyond the initial schedule due to adverse weather conditions, including rain, as well as the presence of cracks, potholes, dangerous sections, and frequent detours. This led to fatigue and discomfort in the buttocks as notable side effects.

I eagerly anticipated the moment in the evening when I could remove the damp rags from my body, take a refreshing shower, and rest in a simple bed at roadside motels.

Even the most adventurous journeys can become tiring. During challenging moments, I often recalled the majestic pyramids on the Yucatan Peninsula, the sandy beaches, and the exotic landscapes that awaited me in the days to come.

The next morning, a particularly disturbing event happened.

I found out that at night someone flipped over my motorbike, which was parked in the hotel parking lot. The right turn signal was broken. Half asleep, I literally erupted and in the next half an hour all Mexicans around me had an opportunity to learn Slovenian curses and test the saying: Don’t approach a lion while he sleeps.

The hotel manager had no chances in negotiating with me. She had to pay me 20.00US$ and apologize for all inconveniences. Later I managed to glue the turn signal together and the bulb worked flawlessly until I sold the motorbike.

While in Campeche, we found ourselves in the most poorly maintained hotel of the expedition, which included a decaying ceiling, a bed that creaked incessantly, a bathroom with glass doors, a toilet base that was not securely fixed, and a washbasin that harked back to the Mayan era. I was too tired to search for other options; my travelling buddy comforted herself with inexpensive shoes and blouses on a street market.

In the following days, a number of archeological sites were finally appearing on the horizon, the main reason of travelling thousand kilometers from the US border across northern and central Mexico. The Mesoamerican cities of Edzna, Kabah, Uxmal and Tulum are a paradise for every Mayan civilization lover, while Chichen Itza is the marvel of Mayans culture, extremely well preserved up to these days and recently also massively visited.

Chichen Itza is one of the most important and best-preserved Mayan sites in Mesoamerica.

The first inhabitants settled in the area around 2,000 BC. By the year 700 AD they had built various temples, pyramids, an observatory, the largest pok-ta-pok playground, acquired knowledge about star movement, constructed a specialized well for donations to their divine figures, and elevated their mathematics and architectural practices to a commendable level, all without the knowledge of the wheel.

The principal building in the city, and perhaps the most famous Pre-Columbian structure of Central America, is the central pyramid, which today bears the Spanish name El Castillo.

The pyramid is an excellent proof of Mayan obsession with a precise calculation of time and astronomy.

91 steps lead to the top on each side of the pyramid which, together with the upper platform, represents 365 days of the year (4 stairs x 91 steps + 1 platform). The 52 flat panels on each side represent the number of years in one cycle of the Mayan calendar; there are 18 terraces on each side (9 levels divided into two sections by stairs), the number of months in the Mayan year.

Twice a year, around the Spring and Autumn equinoxes, in the late afternoon, for five minutes the sun’s rays fall on the main pyramid at such angle that the shadow reflects in a perfect zigzag body form of a snake which connects with the stone head at the bottom of the pyramid.

The northwest corner of the pyramid casts a series of triangular shadows against the western balustrade on the north side that evokes the appearance of a serpent wriggling down the staircase: representation of the feathered-serpent deity, Kukulcán.

According to recent researches, this is more of a legend, since the period of this specific shadow occurs during the longer period of time.

Beside the magical relationship with Mayan calendar, perfectly restored pyramid and many other structures around, I didn’t enjoy it as much as Teotihuacan. There were so many tourists around Chichen Itza, that it was not easy to find a quiet space to enjoy the special energy of the place.

I also climbed the inner stairs inside the pyramid under the platform to a small room, where the statues of red jaguar and green Chacmool were exhibited in a tiny chamber. Humid hot and mysterious.

Just imagine how this place was when a ceremony was taking place at the top of the pyramid, pok-ta-pok game played at 160-meters long central ball court and astronomers were observing the space at modern observatory.

What happened to the skulls that are represented as Tzampantli or how the lake was when people and gold were thrown into it to satisfy the desires of the insatiable gods?

My next stop was not Cancun even though it is only an hour drive away from Chichen Itza. I skipped this skinny shaped barrier island offering beaches, numerous resorts and nightlife, mainly aimed at all-inclusive tourists, families on vacation or couples on their honeymoon. I am not attracted by artificially built cities with lack of local pristine charm.

My preferred destination was Tulum.

Tulum is a picturesque town distinguished by its turquoise ocean, fine white sandy beaches, and Mayan heritage along the shore.

I perceive it as a real paradise for a quick vacation after exploring Mexico by motorcycle, commencing in El Paso and concluding at the extreme eastern boundary of the Yucatan Peninsula.

We arrived to Tulum at night, without a plan of where to sleep. Driving around on a motorbike to find a proper accommodation was a nightmare. Either too expensive, dirty, remote, small or full. It was getting late, I was hungry, my friend was not in good mood.

Finally, we found a small cabaña, not far from the beach, that offered a small room with tiny bed, solid ground and a funny decorated bathroom with two mirrors. The location a few steps from the beach was a bonus that I highly appreciated the next morning.

Tulum ruins are marginal comparing to Chichen Itza, Uxmal, Palenque or other important Mayan sites in Yucatan peninsula.

What is unique, is the combination of ruins, beach and the Caribbean Sea.

The most prominent among the remaining structures – el Castillo, which is perched on the edge of a 12-metre limestone cliff, overlooks the perfectly turquoise blue Caribbean Sea that boast bellow.

Palm trees are scattered on the magnificent pearly white sand on one of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean. A perfect excuse to stay, relax, enjoy and do nothing. Simple food, laying in a hammock, swimming, chatting with locals and bar-hooping at night were the main activities.

No complains.

The next stop on my cultural trip of Mesoamerican cultural sights was Palenque, one of the most important archeological centers in Mexico.

Palenque was a grand Mayan stronghold between 226 BC and 799 AD. It was smaller than Tikal, Chichen Itza, or Copán, but it still contains some of the finest architecture, sculpture, roof comb and bas-relief carvings that the Mayas produced.

The first view of the largest pyramid and the neighboring buildings with a real virgin forest in the background is fantastic. The stairs leading to the top of a structure called The Palace, are very steep, so I wonder how the little Mayans climbed them. The Palace was used by the Mayan aristocracy for bureaucratic functions, entertainment, and ritualistic ceremonies.

Its most unusual and recognizable feature is the four-story tower known as The Observation Tower. There is an aqueduct on the eastern side of the walls, which would have supplied water to baths and saunas inside.

The most famous ruler of Palenque was Pakal the Great, whose tomb has been found and excavated in the Temple of the Inscriptions, the central pyramid.

Pakal the Great‘s tomb is recognized as the first burial chamber uncovered at the foot of a pyramid in the region of Central America.

This refuted the theory that the pyramids were used only for ceremonial purposes. From the tomb at the bottom, to the top of the pyramid, a serpent carved into the wall leads to the ruler’s contact with the present.

The tomb itself is remarkable for its large carved sarcophagus, the rich ornaments accompanying Pakal, and for the stucco sculpture decorating the walls. The second longest glyphic text known from the Maya world (after Hieroglyphic Stairway at Copan) records approximately 180 years of the city’s history.

Most of the 620 hieroglyphs are perfectly preserved, and their meanings have been successfully deciphered.

Very few direct descendants of the Mayans are still alive today. Modern Lacandon Indians live in small, remote farming communities in jungles of Chiapas province.

Their main weapon is a bow with different types of arrows that are used to hunt animals. They live a relatively simple life, use one-piece canoes to transport on the rivers. They dress in completely white clothes, are very small and practice non-Christian polytheistic religion, honor a variety of their own gods and goddesses, similar to the practices of the Mayas.

I bought bows, arrows and arrowheads made from flint, exhibited along the road. I couldn’t communicate with them in Spanish. They are one of the most isolated and culturally conservative of Mexico’s native peoples, with limited contact to the outside world. The Lacandon Indians believe that the Maya sites are places where their gods once dwelled before moving to new domains they constructed in the sky and below the earth.

We left Palenque at dawn, making our way to Oaxaca, the last stop before heading back to Mexico City. The rain resumed, it started to rain again, the road was curvy. I had to stop early in the afternoon to spend the night at the only hotel in a small village. The room was full of flying insects, and the largest of them frightened my friend. I was too tired to be bothered.

The subsequent morning, we continued our journey toward Oaxaca.

The deteriorating road conditions restricted my speed to a maximum of 35 kilometers per hour.

At the police checkpoint, a tall and corpulent official approached me. After completing the required formalities, I took the opportunity to ask her about the road conditions that awaited us.

“The next 400 km is as bad as it has been so far.“, she answered cold-blooded.

I was desperate, hoping that she was wrong, because there was no way that I would continue at turtle speed for another two days, damaging the motorbike and hurting the passengers. I proceeded for several more kilometers before abruptly halting by the roadside, frustrated by a surge of anger.

“I cannot drive the whole day on such a shitty road!”

My friend Teja looked at me in amazement and laughed, as I knocked down a roadside sign and got upset:

“It is enough my friend! Forget about Oaxaca, let’s go straight to Mexico DF!”

I turned the motorbike around and continued driving for about half an hour, until I spotted people mowing the grass with machetes along the road. I wanted to take a photo of them, so I stopped at the side of the road.

What a mistake!

I lost the ground under my feet.

We rolled over in the grass and the motorbike fell next to us. We quickly picked up the heavy bike and placed it on the kickstand support.

The roadside workers looked at us as if we were aliens or circus entertainment for them. They didn’t have a clue what we were doing. Teja started laughing like a child once more.

Nevertheless, her happiness was short-lived, as the engine refused to start. After 10 minutes, I managed to turn the engine on, but only to ride a few hundred meters, before the motorbike stayed out of breath. Somehow, I pushed it to the first village and stopped at a very basic mechanical workshop.

The local mechanic, didn’t seem to be an expert. It took him an eternity to unscrew the spark plug, clean and return it to its original position; but the engine did not start.

“I cannot help you. I am not an expert for motorbikes, but I can take you to one.”

He tied me up to an ancient jeep and there we were. The main attraction in town; I was pulled to the only motorbike mechanic in town.

When I saw Daniel, the motorbike expert, I immediately lost the last piece of hope that my motorbike would be in running condition again in the near future. He had probably ever seen such an engine in his life, let alone to repair it.

Communication wasn’t easy and it was getting dark. Finally, the bike was parked into his workshop, which was actually a living room of his house, equipped with a handful of Allen keys, screwdrivers, hand tools and a pump.

I wouldn’t bet a dollar that night on Daniel’s ability to repair the bike. Much less until the next morning, as he promised. After checking into a hotel, I decided we would continue our trip to Mexico DF the next day by bus and I would eventually come back for the motorbike later.

The next morning, I melancholically walked towards Daniel’s mechanical workshop. From the top of the hill I heard a familiar engine noise. The closer I got, the more convinced I was that the noise was coming out of my Suzuki.

Truly, I couldn’t believe my eyes: the engine was running again.

I happily paid 10.00US$ in Mexican pesos and added three bucks to weld the baggage holder. I returned to the hotel, woke up my friend and announced the happy news. In less than an hour we were back on the road: destination Mexico DF.

650 kilometers didn’t seem to be far anymore.

The next few days after my buddy went home, were lonely, but I met some interesting Mexicans with whom time passed quickly. For another fourteen days, I stayed in the capital Mexico DF, arranged some bureaucratic formalities and decided to return to Los Angeles, California, where I would sell the motorbike and continue travelling by bus.

There were several reasons for this decision: financial restrictions, it would be almost impossible to cross some Central American countries on a motorbike, engine issues, etc.

The four-day drive from Mexico DF to Los Angeles was a special experience. In a simple world: a torture for both; the motorbike and me.

I was sitting on the bike all day, pushing the throttle to its limits and hoping nothing would go wrong. 3,400 kilometers in total or 850 kilometers a day was a big bite.

I stopped only to sleep, eat, drink, visit the toilet, pay the toll, and show documents at checkpoints.

On the third day, the chain started to fell from the gear, because it was stretched out. I was scared at the beginning, but then I realized I can manually return it to the original position. Literally, one kilometer before arriving to my final destination in Los Angeles, the chain fell off the gear for the last time and it got stuck. I happily pushed the motorbike towards the house of old acquaintances and just couldn’t believe how lucky I was.

I keep asking myself to theses days of what might have happened had I been involved in such an incident during rush hour on the highway or in a desolate region of Mexico.

After months of exploring Mexico during my American Big Tour, I later visited Mexico on various occasions as a backpacker or businessman (only Mexico DF). The region of Chiapas and the popular vacation destination Cancun were added to the list of new places; I finally explored Oaxaca as well.

These trips were short holidays compared to my first experience, focused mainly on sightseeing. My budget was higher, the time shorter, my Spanish fluent. The adventure was limited, local forms of transport replaced the freedom of the motorbike. Still great, but not the same.

Participating in business ventures in Mexico, exploring the country on a motorcycle over thousands of kilometers, climbing the remarkable pyramids erected by pre-Columbian civilizations, temporarily residing in Mexico City, or swimming in the stunning turquoise waters of the Yucatan Peninsula are all reasons why …

Mexico is among my favorite countries worldwide.

I dreamed, read and learn about Mayas, Aztecs and Toltecs for years before travelling and still remember the amazing moments, when I explored them on the ground.

Mexico is a country of extremes, that can be dangerous, spicy, unpredictable, polluted or hectic. I had tough moments, but somewhere inside, the Aztec spirit always pushed me to new adventures.

Viva Mexico!