Northern Mexico – part 1

Visited: September 1996

Duration of visit: 50 days

Capital city: Ciudad de Mexico

Population: 123 million (2016)

Estimated reading time: 16 minutes

• Exploring Mexico on a motorbike gave me a close perspective to places that I could never visit otherwise.
• Driving on the edge of Barrancas del Cobre – the largest canyon on the American continent.
• Inspired by a mighty blend of flavors, scents, history, people, and charisma in Mexico DF.
• Aztecs, Mayas, Toltecs and other ancient civilizations that left remains in the form of archaeological sites with fascinating history.
• Sitting on the top of Pyramid of the Sun in Teotihuacan and reflecting on this major Aztec city.

Mexico was part of my American Big Tour, which started in New York and finished in Buenos Aires 15 months later.

In this article I describe the first part of my Mexican adventure in 1996: complicated border crossing, Barrancas del Cobre – The Grand Canyon of Mexico, arriving to Mexico DF on a motorbike without navigation, inspired in the capital city, exploring the city of gods – Teotihuacan.

More articles about my Mexican adventures are available here:

There was only one country in the world that I really wanted to visit as a university student in the early 1990s. Pre-Columbian civilizations on the territory of Mexico had awakened my interest in discovering overseas territories.

The ancient civilizations of Mexico lasted for around 2,500 years. The Aztecs lived in central Mexico between the 14^th and 16^th centuries, the Mayans were present across the northern part of central America and the south of Mexico since 2,600 BC and had a much more advanced linguistic system than the Aztecs.

Combined with Mexico DF, which was built on the ashes of Tenochtitlan and the famous city of Teotihuacan, this was a source of inspiration to graduate ASAP and star chasing my dreams.

I connected Mexico to other Mesoamerican ruins all the way to Incas territories in Peru in order to create a long overland trip from the USA to Argentina. American Big Tour was officially created.

Two years of hard working and saving money as a student created a budget that would allow me to explore the American continent in 1996.

United States of Mexico is a country of extremes and travelling around it on a motorbike was definitely one of the highlights of my travelling experience, that gave me motivation for further adventures and changed me forever.

Mexico was part of my American Big Tour, which started in New York and finished in Buenos Aires 15 months later. I entered Mexico for the first time at El Paso – Ciudad Juarez border, crossing on a motorbike.

I had to arrange an insurance policy for my motorbike and soon realized that my credit card was considered a debit card in Mexico. Having a credit card, I would have paid 11.00US$ for insurance, I could travel for 3 months around Mexico and exit to Guatemala. Unfortunately, according to custom officials my only options to explore Mexico on a motorbike would be the following:

1. Transit visa for two weeks, which would me allow to continue towards Guatemala and South America, but I would have only 14 days to explore Mexico.
2. Three months permit for Mexico conditioned to exit at the same border crossing back to the USA.

After being stuck at the border for two days, analyzing options and trying to unsuccessfully squeeze through customs at different checkpoints, I realized that the only viable alternative was Option 2.

Two weeks for a country that was one of the highlights on my cross American trip were simply not enough. At that stage, my Latin-American overland trip on a motorbike was already falling apart; and I was only crossing the first border on the way to Argentina.

Upon completing a three-hour drive, I arrived in the city of Chihuahua. I quickly realized that highway tolls were exceeding the cost of petrol. I decided, that from now on, I would continue travelling on local roads, despite the fact that they are in much worse condition or could be unexpectedly transited by cattle or wild animals.

Tired of all problems on the border, I stopped in a roadside motel, where I paid only 6.00US$ for a decent private room with a toilet and a garage.  After three months in the United States, where a bed in a youth hostel costs in average 15.00US$, this was a real relief.

I already liked Mexico much more than in the morning, when dealing with the immigration officers.

The first captivating stop in Mexico was the village of Creel, a starting point for the largest canyon on the American continent – Barrancas del Cobre – Copper Canyon.

The town of Creel is a real paradise for budget travelers; I stayed at the most recognized backpackers’ guesthouse, where a bed in a dorm room, breakfast and dinner costed under 3.00US$. The real challenge was to access the center of the village from the main road; crossing a river stream and later 30 centimeters high concrete escarpment while passing over the railway line, forced me to use all the skills that I l had earned with my Suzuki DR 250 motorbike.

Barrancas del Cobre reminds of The Grand Canyon, the biggest difference being green landscape full of trees and bushes, while access is possible only by train or along poorly maintained dirt road. I opted for the second option, which allowed me to meet all sorts of animals, people and use the freedom to stop where I wanted in order to observe the beautiful nature.

Comprising several extensive canyons, Barrancas del Cobre is four times larger than the Grand Canyon in the United States, while being narrower, deeper, and lusher. The canyon system consists of six separate canyons, with Urique Canyon being the most profound at a depth of 1,870 meters.

When I passed walking people on the way, they usually stopped completely to look at me, wave, hitchhike or wish me buen dia. Tarahumara Indians are small, shy natives, famous for their long-distance running ability, so walking for miles is part of their daily life activities.

I met many travelers from all over the world in Creel. They are very different from tourists and backpackers I had been frequenting in the United States, where usually foreigners travel on a very high budget, but limited time to spend.

The most outstanding person was Jenny, a British girl, who had been traveling around the world for 10 years and had already experienced all sorts of things: from kidnapping in Russia to an attack by wild dogs in Bolivia. She had a rather bad opinion of Slovenia, as she did not know exactly what its modern history was. After I briefly explained to her a few things about the land on the sunny side of the Alps, she evaluated me.

“You don’t look like a motorcyclist at all. You seem to be normal. Bikers are usually more interested in their bikes, then what’s going on around them!” was her interesting compliment.

I believe she was right, since I used a motorbike only as a transport vehicle, which enabled me to explore the most remote parts of Mexico.

The distance from Creel to Mexico City is considerable, spanning nearly 2,000 kilometers along primary roadways. The typical routine over the course of four days involved rising at approximately 8:00 AM, having breakfast, preparing for the day, and then driving until nightfall, with breaks for fuel and meals. By the evening, I often felt so fatigued that I would simply collapse into bed and quickly fall sleep.

Despite the fact that the roads are mostly flat and reasonably well signed, navigating them can be an adventure. Too many potholes kept me alert and, at the same time there is a danger that a horse, mule or cow grazing on the side of the road would jump in front of me at any time. I overtook cyclists, pedestrians or horses on the highways; on various occasions a careless farmer with his mule crossed the road.

Small villages are a special story. Many inhabitants were gathered in front of their residences, along the road, or on the sidewalks, attentively watching the vehicles that went by. As I drove past, they frequently halted their tasks and looked at me in awe.

As soon as I stopped in a local grocery store or restaurant, people gather around me. A relaxed conversation created mutual interest for each other.

My motorcycle also called a lot of attention by young soldiers at random checkpoints. They never checked my luggage or documents; we talked mostly about motorcycles, football, my adventure and Mexican girls.

I soon realized that children in rural areas of Mexico live very different from kids in developed countries. I became aware of this fact in one of the hotels where I stopped overnight. At the age of 13, Miguel managed the reception area, with the assistance of his 7-year-old brother, attending to guests while their parents were at work.

When checking in, I politely asked, where the boss was. He proudly answered:

“I am the boss!”

After completing the formalities regarding the accommodation, he told me that his idol was Michael Jordan.

Throughout a serious conversation he was unable to find any positive remarks about current Mexican president, Ernesto Zedillo.

If a teenage boy concludes that politics in Mexico sucks, there must be some reason in it.

I arrived to the capital Ciudad de Mexico (Mexico DF) during the heaviest afternoon traffic jam. No navigation, no maps, only a short list of five hostels, as options to stay in downtown. Extremely small road signs and the challenging one-way street configuration in the city center proved to be far more complex than I had anticipated.

I had hard time finding any of the hotels on the list, but I was lucky to drive just next to Zocalo – the central square. The temperature within my bike jacket was becoming increasingly uncomfortable; however, I was fortunate enough to discover a nondescript motel that offered a secure garage, conveniently located just a short walk from Zocalo.

I parked my motorbike in the garage and used the wide network of public transport to move around the city and the outskirts during my whole stay in the capital.

Mexico City government is especially proud of a wide network of subway system (el Metro). It was built in the late 1960s and today carries almost 4 million passengers a day. Besides being efficient and accessible from any part of this huge city, it offers (according to billboards) the cheapest ride in the world (1 peso per ride, which equals to less than 0.10US$).

I spent the next week wandering around, exploring and trying to understand the most populated city in the world.

According to unofficial data, in 1996, Mexico City reached a population of over 25 million inhabitants, with an estimated 2,000 people migrating to the city every day.

Over the next decade, the city will connect with the surrounding suburbs into a single metropolis with 35 million inhabitants.

As many as a quarter of people in the megacity are traders, so the most captivating situations happen on the streets. Snack bars with food and drinks are on every corner, street vendors sell all sorts of goods; meanwhile, cars, buses and taxis continuously sound their horns.

I was particularly impressed by traffic police officers calmly standing in the middle of intersections, whistling and flapping their arms as if they were elegantly conducting an orchestra and not directing thousands of vehicles in chaotic traffic. Their rhythm was calm; under control … despite traffic lights working normally.

The Zocalo, as the central square, has been a prominent site for gatherings since the Aztec times. It has witnessed human sacrifices at its ceremonial center, military parades, Independence Day celebrations, religious festivities, and has served as a venue for important events venue important national events and meetings. This is the place where the present and past of Mexico intertwine.

In ancient times the Aztecs founded the city of Tenochtitlan, which was uniquely positioned in the middle of a lake and connected to the mainland by five bridges. In the 16^th century, the Spaniards arrived, killed most of the indigenous population, demolished Tenochtitlan to the ground and from its remains built the largest church on this continent – the Metropolitan Cathedral.

On the opposite side of the square is the Government Palace, where important decisions about the future of Mexico are taken. Zocalo is just one block southwest of the Templo Mayor, which was considered the center of the universe according to Aztec mythology.

Among the numerous sellers of souvenirs, food, and beverages, the indigenous people particularly caught my attention.

Dressed in their traditional clothing, with feathers adorning their heads and rattles on their feet, they presented captivating traditional dances that highlight their rich cultural heritage.

Their position in a circle around a vase from which incense wafted into the air, symbolize planets circulating around the sun. They performed different movements through dance choreography that illustrates various elements, which played an important role in their lives: water, fire, sun, etc.

During my stay in Mexico DF the nation celebrated its Independence Day, recognized as the most significant national holiday, on September 15^th. In the evening, the main fiesta took place at Zocalo. Crowds of people gathered at the main plaza and the surrounding streets, partying, tasting traditional food, singing and enjoying the blasts of small paper pieces and flour-like dust.

At exactly 11:00pm President Zedillo shouted a few words from the government palace, terminating in “Viva Mexico!”. The enthusiastic crowd loudly cheered. After the bell from the Catedral Metropolitana rang, a spectacular 15-minutes fireworks display followed and the party continued late into the night.

A friend from Slovenia joined me in Mexico DF. After three months, I received fresh information about what was happening in my homeland and I could speak Slovenian language again. Life became easier, I no longer had to worry about luggage and the motorbike only by myself. She would stay with me for a month.

The primary objective of my journey to Mexico was to explore the remnants of the ancient Aztec and Mayan civilizations.

After spending two weeks navigating the northern regions and exploring Mexico City, I was set to visit Teotihuacan, which is recognized as one of the most well-preserved Aztec cities.

This archaeological site includes some of the most prominent Mesoamerican pyramids built in the pre-Columbian Americas, specifically the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon.

It was my first bus ride in Latin America and I didn’t know what to expect. 60 kilometers in one hour was exciting; our bus was in very poor condition. Most of the windows were broken, engine noise was at such high level, that it was impossible to chat with other passengers, but I didn’t care. I was going to the place I had dreamed of for the last three years.

The City of the Gods was one of the most important Aztec cities with over 125,000 inhabitants in the first half of the first millennium, the largest settlement in Mesoamerica.

Teotihuacan is considered as the first advanced civilization in North America.

One of smaller pyramids is dedicated to the highest Aztec deity, Quetzalcoatl, while the principal buildings are devoted to the Sun and the Moon.

With a height of 63 meters, the Pyramid of the Sun exhibits a circumference that is quite similar to that of the Great Pyramid of Giza, yet it is only half as tall. One of the highest buildings in Mesoamerica, stands along the Avenue of the Dead. The paint and plaster which were covering the pyramids in the past are no longer there. As I climbed to the top on steep stairs, I easily immersed myself in the role of emperor, overlooking the entire city and its surroundings.

While walking around the pyramids and temples of the archeological zone, we flirted with various sellers of souvenirs and jewelry. The most persistent was an older man with a bag full of obsidian statues. Obsidian – a naturally occurring volcanic glass formed when lava extruded from a volcano cools rapidly with minimal crystal growth – was one of the most commonly used materials for making tools and jewelry in Aztec times.

First, the vendor offered me a large statue with the image of Quetzalcoatl for 400 pesos (30.00US$). I explained to him that I was a student with little money and just couldn’t afford such an expensive souvenir.

“No problem; what about this one?” offering me a little smaller statue in more aggressive way.

This one was also too expensive for me; actually, I didn’t even have any intention of buying souvenirs at this stage of my journey.

The process continued with a few smaller versions, until the smallest one came up:

“65 pesos, only for you amigo!”

To get rid of him, I offered 15 pesos and headed on. The man was still yelling after me:

“60, 50, 40, 30, 20!” and finally “OK amigo, 15.”

I had no choice, but to accept his offer, which was extremely favorable. I was probably his first customer that day. This is the usual scenario for bargaining in Mexico, and I have frequently encountered instances where I purchased items I had not initially intended to buy, albeit at a reasonable price.

My stay in Mexico City extended beyond a month, during which I thoroughly explored numerous landmarks, sightseeing venues, and fascinating features of this sprawling urban center. Below is a list of attractions that simply couldn’t be missed:

• Anthropological Museum (Museo Nacional de Antropología) is one of my Top 5 museums in the world. It presents the history of all Pre-Columbian civilizations in the territory of Mexico and contains the world’s largest collection of ancient Mexican art. Ethnographic exhibits about Mexico’s present-day indigenous groups is also on display.
• Xochimilco – Mexican version of Venice or Amsterdam is a network of canals, left from what was an extensive lake and canal system that connected different Aztec settlements in the Valley of Mexico before the arrival of Spaniards. A group of friends or family usually rent a boat with a music group playing mariachi music. Food, drinks, sweets and any other ingredients for a nice excursion, party or mariachi music are offered by sellers on passing canoes.
• Tula was the capital of the Toltec Empire between the fall of Teotihuacan and the raise of Tenochtitlan. The central attraction features four towering Toltec warriors, each armed with a spear thrower, located at the apex of the Pyramid of Quetzalcoatl. These impressive basalt sculptures, measuring four meters in height, provide a commanding view of the surrounding valley.
• Street food can be found on almost every corner in Mexico City. Tacos, corn dishes, enchiladas, pozole, chicken soup, sandwiches (tortas) or rice with a fried egg can be find on many formal or informal places. Nevertheless, the true essence of the city’s renowned food culture is best experienced in its approximately 400 public markets. Among these, Mercado de la Merced is one of the largest and oldest markets, Mercado Medellin offers wider Latino experience, while Sullivan Market over the weekend provides delicious snacks tacos and quesadillas.