Panama

Visited: April 1997, 2005, 2009-2010, 2013-2020

Duration of travelling: 60 days

Duration of living: 2,040 days

Capital city: Ciudad de Panama

Population: 4.2 million (2020)

• Exploring Bocas del Toro before being developed as a prime tourist destination in Panama.
• Cruising Panama Canal on a sailing boat – one of the most impressive technological invention that changed maritime transport of goods.
• Manhattan of Central America – city of skyscrapers – Ciudad de Panamá.
• Finding love of my life – Panamanian architect – on Bocas del Toro.
• Visiting paradisiac San Blas Islands and getting in touch with Kuna culture.
• Getting in touch with enormous leatherback turtles on playa Armila.
• Panama becomes my second home in 2013.
• Political campaign along Rio Calovebora – a week long expedition to the Caribbean coast.
• Solo trip to Darien Gap for less than 200.00 US$ – complete improvisation to reach remote Embera communities.

I visited Panama on various occasions for pleasure and business. For the first time, Panama was part of my Big Tour around Americas in 1996-97, which started in New York and ended in Buenos Aires 15 months later. I was already an experienced backpacker, able to communicate in Spanish by the time I crossed the border from Costa Rica.

The first association with the word Panama is a connection between Atlantic and Pacific Ocean through Panama Canal. Practically the only wish on my bucket list before visiting this narrow Central American country was to see Panama Canal. During my two weeks trip, I also had a chance to explore the islands of Bocas del Toro and archipelago San Blas, each of them very unique. Backpackers paradise Bocas with its many coral reefs offers excellent snorkeling and diving opportunities, while idyllic San Blas with 365 exotic islands provide home to Kuna indigenous people.

Panama is another Central American country where the history has been written under US supervision. It became independent in 1903, when it separated from Colombia. The United States immediately recognized Panama as an independent state, receiving in return the right to build a canal that would connect Atlantic and Pacific Ocean.

The entire area of ​​the canal was under full US military control until 1977, when its influence began to reduce gradually. America’s last intervention took place in 1989, when the area of ​​Ciudad de Panama from was attacked from the air during the Operation Just Cause. The main goal was to remove the then president (dictator) Manuel Noriega, who was becoming too important in drug trafficking, connecting Colombian cartels to Miami drug dealers, from power.

After two weeks of pressure, loud rock music around the surrounded Apostolic Nunciature (de facto Vatican Embassy in Panama), where Noriega was hiding as a refugee, he finally gave up and surrendered. Ex-dictator was deported to the US, where he was later convicted of involvement in drug smuggling. He served a prison sentence practically to his death in 2017, first in the US, afterwards in France.

Strong American influence appears to have had a very positive effect on the socio-economic situation of the country. Panama is the richest country in Central America, and certain exclusive areas of Panama City are perhaps even more luxurious than you can find in Western European countries.

The main contribution to country’s wealth is the Panama Canal; in addition to large direct earnings from tolls there are also many side effects: strong financial sector with representations of foreign banks, a large number of jobs, the second largest free zone in the world in Colon, luxury hotels, construction boom and off shores companies.

Due to the transit position of Panama, its inhabitants are of very different origins: from whites to Chinese, from Indians to blacks. There is no way to define a typical Panamanian.

I spent a tremendous amount of energy, time and money to obtain visa for Panama. Visa approval at Panamanian consulate in Costa Rica requires authorization from Ciudad de Panama. I submitted an application, photocopies of all previous visas were made and faxed to the ministry of Foreign Affairs in Panama. I was charged 10.00 US$ for this service.

Three days later, the positive answer came with the approval of my visa request. I had to pay an additional 35.00 US$ for my tourist visa and submit a ticket to leave Panama after I finish the visit. I was trying to explain the officials that I would exit Panama on a boat toward Colombia, but this option was not acceptable for the bureaucratic institution. I had no choice, but to buy a bus ticket from the city of David in Panama to San Jose in Costa Rica. I never used it, since I stuck to the original plan continuing my trip to South America by boat.

I crossed the border from Costa Rica to Panama on the Caribbean Coast and headed straight to the islands of Bocas del Toro. I was quite happy to visit this beautiful archipelago at a time when it had not yet been discovered and promoted for mass tourism. It is only a matter of time when hotels for exclusive guests, expensive restaurants or all-inclusive resorts will grow on islands with around 5,000 inhabitants.

The archipelago has nine main islands, 52 cays and hundreds of islets with coral reefs or mangroves. Famous for being visited by Christopher Columbus in 1502, possessing some of the largest rainforest in Central America these days, Bocas del Toro is home to two national parks.

I settled down in a guesthouse, where a local family rented me a room with breakfast. There are many options for different activities in Bocas del Toro and most of them depend on your budget. I was only halfway on my trip to South America so being consistent and keeping the expenses low was everyday task. I took a day boat trip to various snorkeling areas and Isla de Bastimentos.

The highlight of this trip was definitely meeting a young Panamanian architect, who was on a business trip in Bocas del Toro. I couldn’t understand how somebody was able to work during a business trip in a tempting environment of Bocas del Toro. Very difficult for sure! We encountered at snorkeling trip, when she was taking a day off.

During my stay I explored beaches that are walking distance from Bocas Town on Isla Colon, meeting other backpackers, practicing Spanish with locals and enjoying fresh local food prepared by hosting family. Many backpackers travelling north offered a bunch of useful advices on South Amerika that I would use during the rest of my trip in the following months.

I will never forget my first encounter with Ciudad the Panama. I was travelling on an overnight bus from David and we arrived to the capital early in the morning, when it was still dark. I didn’t want to go to a hotel at 3:00am, since I would have to pay for an extra night just for a few hours. I waited at the bus terminal until the sun came out and a view to the city opened in front of me. I thought I was still dreaming: “Where am I? Is this New York? Manhattan?” A line of skyscrapers illuminated by the first rays of the morning sun appeared in front of me after months of visiting uninspiring cities, towns and villages of Central America.

The Panama downtown skyscrapers horizon was such an unbelievable view after crossing several Central American countries with completely different architecture, that I couldn’t stop praising it.

I was pleasantly surprised by the modern architecture of the city – the locals call it Panamá. It is a kind of Manhattan of Central America, with many skyscrapers raising over 40 storey high and representations of all worldwide important banks. It is a complete opposite of all Central American capital cities where insecurity, chaos and lower buildings are present. In addition to the new part of the city, many efforts and projects have been undertaken in the overall renovation and restoration of the UNESCO World Heritage site Casco Viejo (the old town).

Casco Viejo has throughout history been a major shipping port and channel for the transportation of goods from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean, or Caribbean Sea, but it has been transformed into the red district because of its smashing nightlife, luxury hotels and fine-dining venues. The historic district of Panama City was completed and settled in 1673, It was built following the near-total destruction of the original Panamá city (Panama Vieja), providing better protection against pirates.

The main sights in the area are the principal catholic church La Catedral Metropolitana, the governmental office and the Residence of the President of Panama (El Palacio de las Garzas) and the National Theatre of Panama. Even though many other historical buildings, plazas and churches are scattered across the area, in 1997 Casco Viejo was still not completely safe to walk around at night.

Public buses in Panama are called Diablo Rojo. They are mostly old US school buses with their seats and doors tailored for children, that were bought, repaired and converted into popular transportation services in Panama by local businessmen. The owners give them a very special character by painting them in bright, colorful designs depicting all sorts of themes: celebrities, politicians, religion icons, sportsman, women, etc.

Their mounted speakers drown out honks with salsa, reggaeton, or anything with a vigorous rhythm. Each bus is as distinctive as the tastes of its owner.

The name Diablos Rojos (Red Devils) does not come, because of their pretty or evil looks, but because of their bad reputation, as they are potentially and inherently dangerous. Drivers are aggressive, unruly and egregious, ignoring traffic regulations and not considering human lives as the sacred value. I experienced aggressiveness in many occasions. Whenever as a driver I spot a Diablo Rojo coming from behind or overtaking other vehicles, I keep the distance.

Legendary American school buses converted to inherently dangerous and beautifully decorated means of transport overtaking all vehicles on Avenida Balboa and calling attention with loud reggaeton playing from strong speakers, are one of the main attractions of Ciudad de Panama.

One of the most recognizable features of the Red Devils are the decorative paintings of the exterior and interior, which give each one a unique character to attract attention and attract more passengers. The other important feature is loud music – reggaeton, which also originated in Panama in the 1980’s.

Reggaeton evolved from dancehall and has been influenced by American hip hop, Latin American and Caribbean music. It offers danceable rhythms and a mixture of singing and rapping. The lyrics can be vulgar.

In 2013, most of Diablos Rojos were dismantled and phased out to pave the way for a newer and safer transportation for the population called Metro-bus system. The former operators of Diablos Rojos were compensated by the government with 25,000.00 US$ per bus for the removal of their vehicles. Additionally, drivers with fewer traffic violations were allowed to take training to drive Metro buses.

By far Panama’s biggest landmark is the Panama Canal, which connects the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. One of the biggest technological achievements of humanity, that changed not only the country of Panama, but also global logistic, deserves a special paragraph to explain it into details.

French were the first who attempted to connect the two oceans. Construction began in 1880 under the leadership of recognized architect Ferdinand de Lesseps. Even before the end of the century, it was concluded that the construction of this canal was significantly more demanding than the Suez Canal, which had been built earlier under the direction of the same architect. The main reasons for the collapse of the project were yellow fever, malaria and the geographical characteristics of the soil. Excavating a trench on the surface of the ocean was a technically insurmountable challenge.

In 1903, Panama separated from Colombia and declared itself an independent state. The United States government immediately recognized a new independent country and was given the right to build the canal as a reward. It took more than 75,000 workers 10 years and an additional 400 million US$ before the struggle with nature was over and two oceans were connected through waters of artificial lake Gatun. One of the most important roles in the construction of the Panama Canal was played by William Crawford Gorgas, who successfully combated malaria and yellow fever with medication. Inventing drugs for yellow fever was probably the most positive immediate side effect of building the Canal.

The first ship sailed through the canal on August 15, 1914. Since then, more than 1 million vessels have crossed the canal (up to 2020). Until 1979, the channel was under full US control. At that time, Torrijos–Carter Treaties were signed according to which the canal would gradually pass under the control of Panama, until the year 2000, when it will be 100% owned by Panamanians.

Neutrality Treaty guarantees the US the permanent right to defend the canal from any threat that might interfere with its continued neutral service to ships of all nations of the world.

The length of the Panama Canal from deep water in the Atlantic Ocean to deep water in the Pacific Ocean is 80 km. Ships need an average of 8 to 10 hours to cross it and combined with waiting time 24 hours.

The height of both oceans is basically at the same level, but the ships rise by 26 meters when crossing the channel on either side. At this altitude they navigate 38 kilometers on lake Gatun, before being lowered by the same altitude on the other side.

The locks were one of the greatest engineering works ever to be undertaken, when they opened in 1914. The water is moved by gravity from Lake Gatun to the lower chambers to lift the vessels from sea level 26 meters higher. The procedure is vice versa, when the vessels are descending to the sea level. Ships enter in some kind of huge pools 305 meters long and 33 meters wide. The largest ocean-going ships are made exactly to the dimensions of these pools (only 50 cm smaller on each side). By emptying or filling the locks, ships are raised or lowered by 8 meters in each pool.  Every minute the depth of the water is changed by 1 meter. After 8 minutes the gates open and the vessel moves into another pool, where the procedure is repeated two more times.

There are three sets of locks: Gatun on the Atlantic side, Pedro Miguel and Miraflores on the Pacific side. I visited Miraflores locks where a small observation deck is located to admire this marvelous engineering accomplishment done almost 100 years ago. I was surprised how little control was enforced at checkpoint for visitors, considering Panama Canal being so important for international trade and therefore an easy target for attacks by terrorist or rebellion groups. There was a guide explaining details about amazing numbers and statistics of vessels, locks, history and achievements of Panama Canal. I observed passing by vessels at viewing platform until they kicked me out due to late hour and stayed overwhelmed long after with superlative achievement that put Panama on the World map.

Later I passed through the whole length of Panama Canal from Pacific to Atlantic Ocean twice. The first time it was by a touristic boat and a guide, who explained all details about construction, history and movement along the Canal. An instructive experience that enabled me to get to know this futuristic construction project from a different perspective.

The second time it was even more excited, when I was invited on a sailing boat. We needed the whole day from Colon to Balboa, first elevating and later descending through all the locks. I cooked food for the whole crew and two Canal employees, who were giving instructions and guiding us in the exclusive area. At the end of the day, when the last locks at Miraflores opened, the boat engine caught fire and stopped working. We were lucky enough to be towed by a friendly sailor to Balboa Yacht Club, where we laughed and analyzed the unbelievable experience of crossing the Panama Canal and almost put it on fire.

The islands of San Blas are one of the most unique regions in the world. 365 islands, most of them inhabited, some occupied by locals and a few dozen dedicated to tourism, are paradise on earth and home to Kuna Indians. Those that are dedicated to visitors are idyllic, small or medium size islands with plenty of coconut trees, perfect sandy beaches, turquoise bays and walkable barefoot.

Kuna are the only indigenous inhabitants of the American continent who were never conquered by European conquistadors. They have preserved traditional way of life, their culture, language, customs and independence. Despite the fact that the territory of Comarca Guna Yala is part of Panama, the Panamanian government recognizes their full autonomy. Kuna have their own laws and government, the area where they live is protected, subject to a special regime regarding construction and environmental protection.

In 1997 visiting San Blas was a luxury experience: the only option to access was landing by plane at one of nearby airstrips, continuing by boat to the islands. The sole alternative – direct access by sea, is very time consuming by cargo ship from the city of Colon, and takes 3 to 5 days.

I flew to Puerto Obaldia, the last settlement on the Panamanian coast, next to Colombian border. From there on dense rainforest provide no man’s land, that shelters dangerous tracks commuted by illegal emigrants and drug cartels. When I landed in Puerto Obaldia, my only realistic option to continue toward Colombia was by sea. I didn’t have any plan, I just knew I had to be patient and wait for the right opportunity at decent price. I bought a cold Coke and waited at the immigration office to see what would happen.

The officers were extremely nice and helpful with the information, but boats coming and going to Colombia were very unpredictable and unreliable. They suggested me to talk to any captain that may pass by on that day or the day after, or two days after. All boats must register to exit or enter Panama, so I am at strategically the best location to find a lift to Colombia.

After 4 hours of patience and unsuccessful negotiations with local fisherman who wanted a fortune to take me to Colombia, I noticed a group of Colombian tourists with a guide. After explaining my needs to the guide, he offered me a lift to Colombian settlement of Acandí under two conditions: 1. All members of the group should approve me to join their group. 2. We will make a stop in San Blas Islands, visit Kuna family, swim on a sandy beach and have lunch there before heading to Acandí.

I didn’t need a lot of time to convince other group members, that I was a graduated student with limited budget, travelling around Latin America and would highly appreciate to join them for the rest of the day.

We visited small Kuna village, observed a short cultural program, local leader explained us about their traditions, lifestyle and activities to earn money. The whole village lives in a kind of community; they help each other, talk a lot, solve problems together and they seem very calm and easy going. There is no electricity yet on the island, but I noticed some battery-powered radios. They make a living mainly from selling coconuts and fishing. Tourism has also been an important source of income in recent years.

To visit the village, it is necessary to pay a few dollars to the village chief, who then spends money for the benefit of the whole community. Women sew special types of tapestries with characteristic Kuna motifs called mola.

Molas are stitched colorful panels, created by layering between two and seven pieces of fabric together and then cutting back portions of fabric to create a design and reveal the underlying colors. The quality of mola is determined by the number of layers of cotton that is used and the fineness of the stitching. We were allowed to take pictures of houses, molas and the area, but not of people.

The appreciation of children among the Kuna Indians is very interesting. Parents want to have as many daughters as possible. When marriage occurs, the man always moves to the woman’s house (to her parents), and he has to bring a large dowry with him. A family with many sons thus loses a lot of property and labor force.

Picnic lunch at idyllic uninhabited island was the last stop before crossing over to Colombia. Perfect sandy beach on a tiny island that can be walked around in 5 minutes. Perfectly warm, calm sea, coconut palm trees and excellent food was a fantastic end of my Central American experience.

I never thought that Panama would become my second home, when visiting it for the first time in 1997. It turned out that meeting a young architect on a business trip to Bocas del Toro was the turning point in my relationship with this country. The young architect turned to my lifetime partner, Panama the country where I spend most time outside of my homeland Slovenia.

I soon realized that it is one thing travelling around the country, the other thing visiting it for business and completely contrasting living there.

When we moved to Panama City on a permanent basis in 2013, I was convinced that I knew everything about Latin-American and Panama. As experienced backpacker, businessman and also living in Ecuador for five years, I had numerous opportunities to get in touch, live and experiment Latino culture. How wrong I was! Panama challenged me so many times, changed my perspective on weather, communication, sincerity, but also gave me plenty of new experiences, access to high society and opportunities to grow my assets.

Panama is a great country to live, if you have money. In order to educate kids, receive a proper medical care, live in a safe community with European standards or mingle with educated people, you need much more money than in Europe.

A capitalist system creates natural selection that no written rule can match. It all starts with education. Public school system is not good; every parent’s dream is to send their kids to a private school. The more exclusive schools open doors to access more prestigious schoolmates, make better connections, usually enable better education and provide opportunities to enroll in top universities in Panama or abroad. Better final education leads to better jobs, more income and the circle is closed. Of course, there are exceptions, but the substantial part of your destiny is marked by your birth in a rich or poor family.

My working habits are very professional, I am punctual, offer great support to my customers and respect to suppliers I need to work with. I used to work in South America for many years, before settling down in Panama, where the creativity for excuses, unethical behavior, taking advantage and lack of professionalism reached the historical heights.

Juegavivo is a magic word that defines many Panamanians – take advantage of the situation, even if it is unethical. Combined with high rates of corruption, it is amazing how prosperous the country is. Well, at least it looks from outside. Panama is still a good opportunity to make money, but only for certain activities where bigger investments are needed. I was lucky and clever enough to use this opportunity.

One of my favorite spots, when living in Panama was San Blas. When paved road connected Panama City and the port of Cartí, San Blas islands became accessible in 3 hours drive + 30 minutes boat ride. That gave me the chance to explore San Blas in various occasions, from Isla Perro Chico to Los Cayos Holandeses. With easy access the number of visitors has increased drastically, but during the week it is still a paradise on earth.

One day, when based in Ciudad de Panama, I decided to leave the chaos of the capital and explore the jungle of Darien. I packed a couple of t-shirts, underwears, shorts and swimming suit, put 200.00 US$ in my wallet and took Diablo Rojo bus to Meteti in Darien region, where I quickly connected by mini bus to Puerto Quimba. It was already late in the afternoon, but still on time to catch the last boat that brought us to the town of La Palma, only accessible by sea.

Drastically losing the population due to emigration to main cities, La Palma is still the principal trading center for the large sparsely populated region that surrounds it. I walked along the unimpressive main street, lined with small stores, hotels, restaurants, and bars to find the only guesthouse. My room was simple, fish for dinner was good. As one of few gringos that occasionally pass through the town, I was in the center of attention.

“Why are you here gringo? What is your plan?” An elderly man was wondering what brought me to the mouth of Tuira River. “I have no fix plan. Visit the area, observe life around and stop in some smaller villages around.”

I knew that La Palma is a jumping off point for visits to the Punta Patiño Nature Reserve and Emberá villages along the river Río Sambú, but there is no consistent public transport in the area. “I can help you my friend. There is a pickup truck leaving tomorrow morning to Sambú.”, was the offer of my new friend that I couldn’t resist. “Sure, I am in.”

It was a tough ride on an unpredictable jungle road. I was holding strongly to the bars of metal case at the back of the truck with a mix group of locals and Panamanians from the capital, who were on the way to visit their families. From Puerto Indio I continued upstream Sambú river in a motorized canoe. I didn’t have any idea where I was going, but people were telling me that I should arrive to Embera community, where they offer accommodation and food to visitors.

The last part we walked through the jungle for about 30 minutes. Not many foreigners arrived to this small Embera village; the kids were after me immediately. I was offered a small bungalow, food and warm welcome. The kids invited me for a swim in a nearby river, where I spent the rest of the day.

The Embera community settled in the Darien Province in the 17^thcentury. Their life is strongly depended on a river; they practice shamanism, survive with fishing and agriculture, live in wooden houses that are elevated from the ground floor on sticks to avoid floods in the rainy season.

I was guided to other remote villages more upstream, painted temporary tattoo or relaxing in a hammock of chief’s house for three days. Jagua tattoo is a temporary form of skin decoration resulting from the application of an extract of the fruit called jagua – Genipa Americana. This fruit has been used for body ornamentation and medicinal purposes in many areas of South America for centuries. The pigment of dark blue or black remains embedded in the skin until the external layer is naturally exfoliated, generally lasting between 10 to 12 days.

After a week of exploring Darien, I flew back to Panama City from overgrown Sambú airport by Air Panama. Incredible trip, full of unexpected treasures, friendly people and amazing nature. I still had some coins in my pocket, when landed at Albrook airport in the Manhattan of Central America.

Santa Fe is a small town in Veraguas province, where a paved road from the Pan-American Highway ends. I visited it once as a daily trip from Panama City and found out that the only way to continue travelling further to the Caribbean coast was on a dirt track through rainforest or navigating the river Calovebora. I exchanged contact number with Manuel, a farmer in local community, who assured me, that he would call me, when the next expedition to the Caribbean coast would be ready.

I received a call by Manuel two months later: “Hi Rok. In three days, a delegation from Santa Fe will be travelling to Playa Calovebora. You can join if you want. You only need to pay for transport. Bring water and some cookies!” After some thoughts, still surprised, I confirmed my participation: “I am ready. I will be there.”

The mayor of Santa Fe, Señor Gustavo, economist Juan from Ministry of Hacienda, accompanied by supportive team of 6 people and myself were ready for the trip that could take 4 to 5 days. It was the end of rainy season in 2010, but when I saw a pick-up truck with highly profiled tires of huge dimensions, I knew that the road was not in good conditions.

We needed two hours to get through the first half of 40 kilometers road, which would bring us to the navigable part of Rio Calovebora. After a short break the driver took out tire chains and fixed them around wheels on the rear drive axle. “From here on, the road is really bad!” Ups! I thought that the road so far had been bad.

He was right. We needed five hours for the last 20 kilometers. On various parts the passengers were recommended to walk on the side of the path, because it was too dangerous in the trunk of our pick-up truck. Steep slopes were filled with water, the soft mud sank up to a meter deep. I believe, this part is completely unpassable in the rainy season.

We arrived exhausted and hungry to the first settlements in the evening. A small indigenous community was happy to host us in the local church, where mattresses were waiting for us. The shower was cold, but refreshing. Already in the dark, a filling dinner was served, plan for the next day made. We were making fun about our first day of adventure late in the night.

From here on we navigated on the Calovebora river. We separated in two motorboat canoes. In the beginning the river was predominantly calm and easy to navigate, later the rapids on the river were getting stronger and stronger. When we hit the wildest area, we were forced to leave the boat and walk through the jungle, while boatmen passed through the most dangers part without passengers. We stopped in villages for lunch, dinner and accommodation. Somehow, the communities were aware of our arrival, always welcoming us with open hands. Political discussions, promises, negotiations and future investments in local infrastructure were the main topics of conversation with locals.

On Day 4 we arrived to the community of Playa Calovebora, where the river meets the sea. We were invited to a dinner of the local baron, who poses huge areas of land, animals and also serves as the mayor of the village. A cow was slaughtered, tables and chairs prepared on the terrace, vine, cold beer and soft drinks served. I was informed out that the sea had been extremely rough recently and boats could not leave for the open sea. It was too risky and too far to the first town that is connected by road to the rest of Panama, Vista Hermosa.

I didn’t want to return back on the same route by the river, neither could I continue by boat due to the rough sea. I stayed for another day in the village, enjoying the view from the estuary. The main activity was swimming with the local kids, switching between warm river and rough sea. I was one of the very few foreigners that had ever visited the area.

On Day 7, the boatman knocked on the door of my simple room very early and announced that we would departure soon. The sea was not ideal, but the village was staying out of supplies, so he was decided to leave for Vista Hermosa with some passengers and bring goods on the way back.

It was a long journey on the rough sea. Long waves were attacking our boat from all sides. Sunshine and rain were changing my mood.  I was uncomfortable, but happy to get a lift on my way back home. After 6 hours we arrived safely to Vista Hermosa.

A return to the civilization was marked by cars, canteens, paved road and loud music. It didn’t take long before a Diablo Rojo bus picked me up and drove me to Colon. With loud reggaeton playing from the speakers, the wind blowing through the open windows, I picked up my phone to let my family know that I was OK and back in modern world.

A week without mobile phone and internet coverage, no vegetables, hardly any fruits. A lot of fun and adventure though. I was happy to live this experience in Panama.

Panama in 1997. Panama in general surprised me in a positive way. In terms of development, it doesn't really belong in Central America at all. Considering the level of comfort, it’s not even that expensive. Hotels and guesthouses are priced reasonably, lunch is available for just under two dollars, metropolitan public transport in the capital is almost free. The only issue is actually getting a visa, which as a holder of Slovenian passport I got used to, while traveling in Central America.

In general, lifestyle Panama is very much orientated towards the US, which is at no surprise due to connection between these two countries in the last century: American food, educational system, wide avenues, Hollywood blockbuster movies, capitalist economic model, etc.

The yearly average annual temperature in Panama is over 30C. Extreme heat with high humidity throughout the year impacted on my general opinion that hot weather is always better than cold. In Panama I’ve got a feeling for the first time that the heat can be unbearable as well. It is practically impossible and also unhealthy to expose to the sun between 10:00am and 4:00pm.

Panama in 2022. Since my first visit of Panama in 1997, the country has changed a lot. Constant economical growth, investment in public infrastructure that was finianced predominantly by toll revenue, generated by the Panama Canal, increased the country's wealth, but at the same time decreased the quality of life of their inhabitants.

Tremendous traffic jams are extending commuting time to work, schools or activities. High prices of real estates, lack of accessible apartments in the city and expensive + inefficient services, have positioned Panama as the most expensive country in the region. If the first two decades of 21^st century were about economical growth, Panama will face tough years when Panama Canal will stop producing golden eggs due to climate changes. And this will happen sooner than Panamanian expect.