Panama – Long trip

Visited: April 1997

Duration of visit: 15 days

Capital city: Ciudad de Panama

Population: 4.2 million (2020)

Estimated reading time: 15 minutes

• Exploring Bocas del Toro before being developed as a prime tourist destination in Panama.
• The Panama Canal – one of the most impressive engineering achievements that impacted global transport.
• Manhattan of Central America – city of skyscrapers – Ciudad de Panamá.
• Finding the love of my life – a Panamanian architect in Bocas del Toro.
• Visiting paradisiac San Blas Islands and learning about Kuna culture.

In 1997, Panama was part of my American Big Tour, which started in New York City and ended in Buenos Aires 15 months later. I was already an experienced backpacker, able to communicate in Spanish by the time I crossed the border from Costa Rica.

The singular goal on my bucket list before exploring this narrow Central American country was to experience the Panama Canal and Panama City. During my two weeks trip, I also had the chance to explore the islands of Bocas del Toro and San Blas archipelago, each of them very unique. Backpackers paradise Bocas, with its many coral reefs, offers excellent snorkeling and diving opportunities, while idyllic San Blas, with 365 exotic islands, provides home to the Kuna indigenous people.

In this article I describe the following topics of my trip Panama – Lon trip: Magnificent archipelago Bocas del Toro, Ciudad de Panamá – Manhattan of Central America, Diablo Rojo buses, Panama Canal – the miracle of connecting two oceans, San Blas Islands and Kuna culture.

More articles about my Panama adventures are available here:

I spent a tremendous amount of energy, time and money to obtain visa for Panama. Visa approval at the Panamanian consulate in San Jose required authorization from Ciudad de Panama. I submitted an application, photocopies of all previous visas were made and faxed to the ministry of Foreign Affairs in Panama. I was charged 10.00 US$ for this service.

Three days later, the positive answer came with the approval of my visa application, but I was requested additional 35.00 US$ for my tourist visa and submit a ticket to leave Panama after I finish the visit. I tried to explain the officials that I would exit Panama on a boat towards Colombia, but this option was not acceptable for the bureaucratic institution.

I had no choice, but to purchase a bus ticket from the city of David in Panama to San Jose in Costa Rica. I never used it, since I stuck to the original plan continuing my trip to South America by boat.

I crossed the border from Costa Rica to Panama on the Caribbean Coast and headed straight to the islands of Bocas del Toro. I was quite happy to visit this beautiful archipelago at a time when it had not yet been discovered and promoted for mass tourism. It is only a matter of time when hotels for exclusive guests, expensive restaurants or all-inclusive resorts will grow on these islands with only around 5,000 inhabitants.

The archipelago has nine main islands, 52 cays and hundreds of islets with coral reefs or mangroves. Famous for being visited by Christopher Columbus in 1502, the province of Bocas del Toro has some of the largest rainforest in Central America these days, and is home to two national parks.

I settled down in a guesthouse, where a local family rented me a room with breakfast. There are many options for different activities and most of them depend on your budget. I was only halfway on my trip to South America so being consistent and keeping the expenses low was everyday task. I took a day boat trip to various snorkeling areas and Isla de Bastimentos.

The highlight of this trip was definitely meeting a young Panamanian architect, who was on a business trip.

I couldn’t understand how somebody was able to work during a business trip in the tempting environment of Bocas del Toro. Very difficult for sure! We met at snorkeling trip, when she was taking a day off.

During my stay I explored beaches that are walking distance from Bocas Town on Isla Colon, meeting other backpackers, practicing Spanish with locals and enjoying fresh local food prepared by my hosting family. Many backpackers travelling north offered a bunch of useful advices on South America that I would use during the rest of my trip in the following months.

I will never forget my first encounter with Ciudad the Panama. I was travelling on an overnight bus from David and we arrived to the capital early in the morning, when it was still dark. I didn’t want to go to a hotel at 3:00am, since I would have to pay for an extra night just for a few hours. I waited at the bus terminal until the sun came out and a view to the city opened in front of me. I thought I was still dreaming:

“Where am I? Is this New York? Manhattan?”

A line of skyscrapers illuminated by the first rays of the morning sun appeared in front of me after months of visiting uninspiring cities, towns and villages of Central America.

The Panama City downtown skyscrapers horizon was such an unbelievable view after crossing several Central American countries with completely different architecture, that I couldn’t stop praising it.

I was pleasantly surprised by the modern architecture of the city – the locals call it Panamá. The Manhattan of Central America, characterized by numerous skyscrapers exceeding 40 stories in height and housing representations of all major global banks, stands in stark contrast to other Central American capital cities, which are often marked by insecurity, disorder, and a predominance of lower-rise structures.

Alongside the development of the new section of the city, numerous projects have been implemented aimed at the renovation and restoration of Casco Viejo (The Old Town), which was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997.

Casco Viejo has historically served as a major transit hub connecting the Pacific Ocean to the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. In recent years, it has evolved into a bustling district characterized by its energetic nightlife, luxurious accommodations, and high-end dining options.

The historic district of Panama City was completed and settled in 1673. It was built following the near-total destruction of the original Panamá city (Panama Vieja), providing better protection against pirates. Among the key landmarks are the main catholic church La Catedral Metropolitana, the governmental office and the Residence of the President of Panama (El Palacio de las Garzas) and the National Theatre of Panama.

Even though many other historical buildings, plazas and churches are scattered across the area, in 1997 Casco Viejo was still not completely safe to walk around at night.

Public buses in Panama are called Diablos Rojos. They are mostly old US school buses with their seats and doors tailored for children, that were bought, repaired and converted into popular transportation services in Panama by local businessmen. The owners give them a very special character by painting them in bright, colorful designs depicting all sorts of themes: celebrities, politicians, religion icons, sportsman, women, etc.

The name Diablos Rojos (Red Devils) does not originate from their pretty or evil appearance, but rather of their bad reputation, as they are potentially and inherently dangerous. Drivers are aggressive, unruly and egregious, ignoring traffic regulations and not considering human lives as the sacred value.

I experienced aggressiveness in many occasions. Whenever as a driver I spot a Diablo Rojo coming from behind or overtaking other vehicles, I keep the distance.

One of the most recognizable features of the Red Devils are the decorative paintings of the exterior and interior, which give each one a unique character, capturing attention and drawing in more passengers.

The other important feature is loud music – reggaeton, which also originated in Panama and Puerto Rico in the 1980’s. Reggaeton features danceable rhythms and a mixture of singing and rapping. The lyrics may frequently contain vulgar expressions.

In 2013, most of Diablos Rojos were dismantled and phased out to pave the way for a newer and safer transportation for the population called Metro-bus system. The former operators of Diablos Rojos were compensated by the government with 25,000.00 US$ per bus for the removal of their vehicles. Additionally, drivers with fewer traffic violations were allowed to take training to drive Metro buses.

By far Panama’s biggest landmark is the Panama Canal, which connects the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. Being and engineering marvel that changed not only the country of Panama, but also global logistic, it deserves a special paragraph to explain it into details.

The French first attempted to connect the two oceans. Construction began in 1880 under the leadership of recognized architect Ferdinand de Lesseps, who also built the Suez Canal. But even before the end of the century, the project failed and the company went bankrupt. The main reasons for the collapse of the project were yellow fever, malaria and the geographical characteristics of the land. Excavating a trench at the ocean level was a technically insurmountable challenge.

In 1903, Panama separated from Colombia and declared itself an independent state. The USA played an indirect role in facilitating the process and, as a result, secured the privilege to construct the canal. It took more than 75,000 workers 10 years and an additional 400 million US$ before the struggle with nature was over and two oceans were connected through waters of artificial Gatun Lake.

One of the most important roles in the construction of the Panama Canal was played by William Crawford Gorgas, who successfully combated malaria and yellow fever with medication. Successfully treating yellow fever was probably the most positive immediate side effect of building the Canal.

The first ship sailed through the canal on August 15, 1914. Since then, more than 1 million vessels have crossed the canal (up to 2020).

Until 1977, the channel was under full US control. At that time, the Torrijos–Carter Treaties were signed according to which the canal would gradually pass under the control of Panama, until the year 2000, when it would be 100% owned by Panamanians. The Neutrality Treaty guarantees the USA the permanent right to defend the canal from any threat that might interfere with its continued neutral service to ships of all nations of the world.

The length of the Panama Canal from deep water in the Atlantic Ocean to deep water in the Pacific Ocean is 80 km. Ships need an average of 8 to 10 hours to cross it. The waiting time could be 24 hours or more.

The height of both oceans is basically at the same level, but the ships rise by 26 meters when entering the Canal on either side. At this altitude they navigate 38 kilometers on Gatun Lake, before being lowered down again on the other side.

The locks represented one of the most significant engineering achievements ever accomplished, having been inaugurated in 1914. The water is moved by gravity from Gatun Lake to the lower chambers to lift the vessels from sea level to reach the level of the lake, to then be gradually discharged into the ocean when lowering the vessel down on the other side.

Ships enter in some kind of huge pools 305 meters long and 33 meters wide. The Panamax (maximum ship size that can fits in the Canal locks) are made exactly to the dimensions of these pools (only 50 cm smaller on each side). By emptying or filling the locks, ships are raised or lowered by 8 meters in each pool.  Every minute the depth of the water is changed by 1 meter. After 8 minutes the gates open and the vessel moves into another pool, where the procedure is repeated two more times.

There are three sets of locks: Gatun on the Atlantic side, Pedro Miguel and Miraflores on the Pacific side.

I visited Miraflores locks where a small observation deck was located to admire this marvelous engineering accomplishment done almost 100 years ago. I was surprised by how little control was enforced at checkpoint for visitors, considering the Panama Canal being so important for international trade and therefore an easy target for attacks by terrorist or rebellion groups.

There was a guide explaining details about amazing numbers and statistics of vessels, locks, history and achievements of Panama Canal. I remained at the observation platform, watching the passage of the vessels until I was asked to leave because of the late hour. My state of amazement reminded me for long after seeing this superlative achievement that put Panama on the world map.

The archipelago of San Blas is one of the most unique regions in the world.

365 islands, most of them inhabited, some occupied by locals and a few dozen dedicated to tourism, are paradise on earth and home to Kuna indigenous people.

Those that are dedicated to visitors are idyllic, small or medium size islands with plenty of coconut trees, perfect sandy beaches, turquoise bays and walkable barefoot.

Kuna are the only indigenous inhabitants of the American continent who were never conquered by European conquistadors. They have preserved traditional way of life, their culture, language, customs and independence. Despite the fact that the territory of Comarca Guna Yala is part of Panama, the Panamanian government gives Kuna a great degree of autonomy.

Kuna have their own local laws and government, the area where they live is protected, subject to a special regime regarding land treatment, construction and environmental protection.

Visiting San Blas in 1997 was a luxury experience: the only option to access was landing by plane at one of few local airstrips and continuing by boat to the islands. The only other option, which is direct sea access, is quite time-consuming when utilizing a cargo ship from the city of Colon. This journey typically requires between three to five days and can be further complicated by the turbulent waters of the Caribbean Sea.

I flew to Puerto Obaldia, the last settlement on the Panamanian Atlantic coast, next to the Colombian border. From there on, the dense rainforest was a no man’s land that shelters dangerous tracks transited by illegal emigrants and drug cartels. When I landed in Puerto Obaldia, my only realistic option to continue toward Colombia was by sea. I didn’t have any plan, I just knew I had to be patient and wait for the right opportunity at a decent price. I bought a cold Coke and waited at the immigration office to see what would happen.

The officers were extremely nice and helpful with the information, but boats coming and going to Colombia were very unpredictable and unreliable. They suggested me to talk to any captain that may pass by on that day or the day after, or two days after. All boats must register to exit or enter Panama, so I was at the most strategic location to find a lift to Colombia.

Following 4 hours of enduring patience and unsuccessful negotiations with a local, I observed a group of tourists accompanied by a guide. I explained my situation to the guide, who then offered to take me to the Colombian settlement of Acandí, but only under two conditions:

1. All members of the group should approve me to join their group.
2. We will make a stop in San Blas Islands, visit Kuna family, swim on a sandy beach and have lunch there before heading to Acandí.

I didn’t need a lot of time to convince the other group members, that I was a graduated student with limited budget, travelling around Latin America who would highly appreciate to join them for the rest of the day.

Our visit to a small Kuna village included a brief cultural presentation, during which the local leader provided insights into their traditions, lifestyle, and ways to earn a living. The whole village lives in a kind of community; they help each other, talk a lot, solve problems together, reflecting a tranquil and laid-back attitude. Although the island is still without electricity, I did see some battery-operated radios in use.

They make a living mainly from selling coconuts and fishing, with tourism also playing an increasingly important role in their economy in recent years. To visit the village, it is necessary to pay a few dollars to the village chief, who then spends money for the benefit of the whole community.

Women meticulously hand-sew special types of tapestries with characteristic Kuna motifs called mola.

Molas are stitched colorful panels, created by layering 2 to 7 pieces of cotton fabric together and then cutting back portions of fabric to create a design and reveal the underlying colors.

The quality of mola is determined by the number of layers of fabric that is used and the fineness of the stitching. It is usually used in the traditional dress to cover the front and back of women torso.

We were allowed to take pictures of houses, molas and the area, but not of people.

The appreciation of children among the Kuna Indians is peculiar. Parents want to have as many daughters as possible. When marriage occurs, the man always moves to the woman’s house (to her parents), and he has to bring a large dowry with him. A family with many sons thus loses a lot of property and labor force.

A picnic lunch at idyllic uninhabited island was the last stop before crossing over to Colombia. A pristine sandy beach, located on a tiny island, can be traversed in a mere five minutes. The sea is perfectly warm and serene, adorned with coconut palm trees and delicious food, marking a splendid finale to my Central American adventure.

Panama in general surprised me in a positive way. In terms of development, it doesn’t really belong in Central America at all. When taking into account the level of comfort, the prices are relatively reasonable. Hotels and guesthouses are priced reasonably, lunch is available for just under two dollars, metropolitan public transport in the capital is almost free. The only issue is actually getting a visa, which as a holder of Slovenian passport I got used to, while traveling in Central America.

In general, Panamanian lifestyle is very much influenced by the USA, which is no surprise due to connection between these two countries in the last century: American food, educational system, wide avenues, Hollywood blockbuster movies, capitalist economic model, etc.

The yearly average annual temperature in Panama is over 30°C. Extreme heat with high humidity throughout the year impacted on my general opinion that hot weather is always better than cold. In Panama I’ve got a feeling for the first time that the heat can be unbearable as well. It is practically impossible and also unhealthy to expose to the sun between 10:00am and 4:00pm.