Ecuador

Visited: April 1997, 2000-2004, April 2011, June 2019

Duration of travelling: 105 days

Duration of living: 1,195 days

Capital city: Quito

Population: 17.40 million (2019)

• Impressive diversity of the landscape from the coast through the Andes to the jungle.
• My second / third home – I visited Ecuador on many occasions, worked and finally lived in Quito for 4 years.
• Incredible friendly and humble people that formed the best team in my professional career.
• Quito – from the Inca capital, to UNESCO’s 1^st World Cultural Heritage City and my home for almost four years.
• Visiting Galapagos island on a military cargo plane. Cruising around the islands, meeting endemic animals at close range without them being frightened.
• Sweets feast at Corpus Christi in the beautiful colonial city Cuenca, the center of cultural diversity, arts, and sciences.
• Negotiating for a bus ride in Guayaquil.

Ecuador has a unique position in my life. I got in touch with Ecuador for the first time in 1997 as a part of my overland trip Big Tour around Americas in 1996-97, which started in New York and ended in Buenos Aires 15 months later. Only 3 years later I received a job offer to run a company in the capital Quito. Over the period of the next three and a half years I visited every corner of the country; for business and pleasure.

The connection with Latin world strengthened to the extent that today I consider myself half Latino, believing that I understand pretty well the culture, way of thinking, working habits and mindset not only of Ecuadorians, but much wider Latino population.

I started my Ecuador business adventure in the era, when the country was on the knees, practically in bankruptcy. High inflation, political instability, indigenous protest and unsupportive international environment caused hyperinflation, lack of foreign currency, bankruptcy of financial system and high unemployment rate. Still, Quito was one of the safest places to live in Latin America and the kindness of humble people, cooperative coworkers and positive environment positioned Ecuador in my hearth forever.

Two decades later, when I visited Ecuador with my family, the country has changed. Socialism of the 21^st century orchestrated by ex-president Correa converted Ecuador to an insecure territory, where drug cartels compete for prohibitive business, causing atrocities to anybody in their way. I was constantly worried to take precautions, avoid walking at night or circumvent certain areas that were considered safe years ago. Ecuador was on the way to become dangerous for its inhabitants and risky to visit for the tourists.

Despite the fact that Ecuador is the smallest of the Andean countries, it can be compared to medium-sized European countries. At 283,520 square kilometers, Ecuador is one of the most colorful countries in the world, extending from the Amazon basin through Andean mountains to the coast of Pacific Ocean.

The most unique attractions of Ecuador are the Galapagos Islands and the Equator line that also gave name to the country. While the Galapagos Islands are somewhat more exclusive destination, the equator line in the immediate vicinity of Quito is certainly the most visited place in the country. The Galapagos Islands and Quito were the first ever designated UNESCO sites.

Internationally known as the largest exporter of bananas in the world, Ecuador accounts for almost 25% of the world’s total banana exports. Other important crops are flowers, especially roses and cacao. Only 5% of the cacao in the world is the so-called fine aroma quality and Ecuador produces nearly 2/3 of it. However, the main source of income is actually petrol, which accounts for 33% of revenue and 40% of exports.

In general Ecuador is a peaceful country, but it was engaged with a long-running war (dispute) over the border with Peru from the day of their foundation. Finally, in 1998, after 171 years since the first attack, a peace agreement was signed that finally brought a definitive end to the dispute over mostly uninhabited Amazon jungle.

If there are many products that Ecuador is famous for, there is one particular product that originates in Ecuador, but has been named after another country. Panama hats were popularized during the building of the Panama Canal, after President Roosevelt bought one in 1906 and subsequently wore it during his inspection tour of the Panama Canal construction, hence the name.

I entered the territory of Ecuador from Colombia by land in the town of Tulcán. Immigration process was straightforward, since visa was not needed for Slovenian citizens. When the immigration officer was checking the list of countries that required visas only some exotic states were listed (Iraq, Afghanistan and three more).

I experienced a much less friendly reception at the police and customs checkpoint. My presence interrupted a group of four young men on duty while playing cards during the afternoon shift. Of course, they did not allow themselves to be bothered while working. Instead two young apprentices, who apparently had not yet earned all the privileges, were called to duty.

At first, they got over my little backpack and searched it through to the last item. Nothing suspicious was found. When they dismantled my big rucksack completely, I curiously asked them what they were looking for. Again, no answer or comment was received. It became clear to me a few seconds later. Of course, I am coming from Colombia, the capital of cocaine. “Well, I guess you won’t scatter all my luggage, so nicely packed in my backpack, because I don’t smoke, let alone carry drugs!“, I got a little braver. “Are you sure you don’t smoke?” a strong custom agent asked me. “Of course, not … never!” I insisted. After a careful examination of fingers on my hands the younger custom officer confirmed that there were no signs of cigarette smoke: “You can go. Welcome to Ecuador!”

“Not the most pleasant welcome!”, I thought, as I boarded a rickety bus that took me to the capital Quito – once upon a time one of the two capitals of the great Inca Empire (Cusco was the second). Located at an altitude of 2,850 meters above sea level, the second highest lying capital in the world (after La Paz), Quito was the first city ever to be declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site back in 1978. Founded in the 16^th century by Spanish conquistadors, the capital of Ecuador boasts the biggest and best-preserved historic center in the Americas. A sprawling metropolis filled with cultural and historical treasures, surrounded by high mountains, wraps around eastern slopes of Pichincha Volcano.

Ecuador is one of the poorest countries in South America, which is also evident in the prices; I was paying only 3.00 US$ per night in hotels, lunch is available for 2.00 US$ and I even negotiated 2.00 a haircut for 2.00 US$. Of course, all this in the old part of Quito where I settled down temporary, since the modern part is significantly more expensive, better organized and planned.

There are so many attractions in the old town, that a few days can be easily spent just wondering around and exploring the history, food and street life. The Plaza de la Independencia dates back to the 1600s, when the area was selected as a central public space and ultimately surrounded by churches, private homes and municipal buildings. The main highlight is the Monumento a la Independencia, dedicated to the heroes of independence on 10^th August 1809, a date remembered as the first call for independence from Spanish conquerors in all Latin America. The surroundings squares are flanked by important buildings: to the west the Palacio de Carondelet – the government palace, to the south by the Metropolitan Cathedral of Quito, to the north by the Archbishop’s Palace of Quito and to the east by the Municipal Palace of Quito.

The Government Palace presides over the Plaza Grande, offering all of the loftiness and grandiosity as the seat of Government and official residence of the president of the Republic of Ecuador. The white palace, which dominates an entire city block, is topped with a flagpole, from where the gigantic Ecuadorian flag waves around proudly. On either side of the grand entrance ceremonial guards stand attentively.

It took 160 years to complete the most ornate church in Ecuador, which is considered one of the finest examples of Spanish Baroque architecture in South America. Inside Iglesia de la Compania glitters under the weight of gold leaf décor that covers the altar, while gilded plaster and wooden carvings decorate the rest. Particular symbols of the Sun were a nod to the Inca civilization, encouraging indigenous population to enter the church and accept new religion.

The Catholic basilica Iglesia de San Francisco is the largest architectural complex within the historic centers of all of America. The vast complex includes 13 cloisters, three churches, a plaza, more than 3,500 works of religious art and a library holding thousands of books and historic documents. The basilica is the first site ever inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1978. It is the oldest and most significant religious site in Ecuador. The building is considered a jewel of continental architecture for its mixture of different styles combined; it took more than 150 years of construction to complete it.

Calle La Ronda is a historic, narrow street that dates back to when the Incas once walked its paths. During the 20^th century it became a home of poets, musicians and politicians who left their mark on Ecuadorian history. Restaurants, bars, workshops and museums fill up the street from where it is possible to see directly to the splendid Panecillo.

El Panecillo at over 3,000 meters above sea level is my favorite spot in Quito. The panoramic view from the hill, named after the Spanish bread, spreads far and wide on all sides of the city, where the old town stretches towards the modern skyscrapers, Parque Carolina and the stadium on one side, to endless simple buildings mixed with sparse greenery to the southern – poorer part of Quito. Large statue of the Virgin Mary with open wings, made of aluminum, adorns the summit. Composed of seven thousand different pieces, this is the largest representation of aluminum in the world. The work, inaugurated in 1975, is a replica of the 30-centimeter sculpture made in the 18^th century by the Quito sculptor Bernardo de Legarda.

35 kilometers north of the Quito’s old town runs the line of 0 degrees latitude – the Equator, marked by a thick red line that separates the earth into the northern and southern hemispheres. A large monument to the Middle of the World with a globe on the top is visited daily by crowds of curious people.

I placed one leg on the left side of the red line and the other on the right side to conquer both hemispheres. How simple! And free! You can take the elevator to the top of the monument and during descend appreciate various thematic exhibitions of indigenous culture, clothing, descriptions of the various ethnic groups in the beautifully presented ethnographic museum on various floors.

On several occasions, during celebrations or festivities traditional dances are performed by dancers dressed in colorful and picturesque national costumes. Restaurants offer a local specialty cuy – guinea pig, prepared by roasting or frying. Cuy is a small domesticated rodent native to South America, high in protein and low in fat, appreciated as a traditional food in the Andean regions.

The weather around the Equator is very variable; they say you can live 4 seasons in a day in Quito: the sunshine can be extremely strong at this attitude; clouds can cover clear sky in any moment. The rain is strong in rainy season, while hail is not very uncommon in the northern part of Quito.

Beside Bolivia, Ecuador is the country with the largest share of the original indigenous population, descendants of the famous Incas. They still represent approximately 7% of current population, while the big majority (70%) of Ecuadorians are Mestizos of mixed indigenous and European heritage.

Indigenas live mainly in the highlands, where they still make a living by farming and animal husbandry. Due to the low temperatures, sheep, alpacas and llamas are the most common animals, mostly used for wool extraction.

The Quechuas are held to be not only the Ecuador’s most populous indigenous ethnic group, but also the largest indigenous group throughout the Americas. They live very simply; mud-made houses are scattered over the fertile hilly landscape; only a few have already been powered by electricity or connected to water supply. Life in the Andes is, in fact, an eternal struggle for survival, as with the traditional way of cultivating the land and raising animals, they cannot earn extra money to buy anything more than the basic necessities of life. It is therefore no wonder that many have preferred to move to medium-sized cities, where they earn miserable salaries with mainly heavy physical work.

The Ecuadorian people’s pride in their indigenous heritage can be seen in their continuance of traditional dress codes, adherence to shamanistic practices, and the celebration of folklore and legends in festivals held yearly throughout the country.

With the shift to modern civilization, most indigenas are abandoning their traditional values ​​and also communication in Quichuan language. The Quechua language continues to be spoken throughout the Andes and is even an official language of Peru. However, in Ecuador, the Quechuan language is Quichuan, a related dialect with historical and political significance. Even though children speak Quichuan at home, when they start attending school, all lessons are conducted exclusively in Spanish.

Once a week all the Indians from small settlements gather together at the central markets of the most important villages in any region where they live. Women in traditional, colorful clothing with children strapped to some sort of felt on the shoulders, usually carry most of the burden. Men are dressed in worn-out clothes from everyday lives. After the job is done, many of them find satisfaction in alcohol, replacing home bed with a sidewalk or roadside ditch.

The most famous indigenous market days in Ecuador are: Tuesday in Saquisili and Saturday in Otavalo. In addition to being the largest and most complete markets, they are also the most commercialized, mainly at the expense of countless foreign visitors, who rummage around for souvenirs.

For my taste, the market in Saquisili was especially interesting, focused more on local products. Inhabitants of surrounding villages sell all their junk, fruits, vegetables or animals, communicate with each other in the quichua and are dressed in traditional clothes.

The Saturday market in Otavalo has existed since the time of the Incas, but today it has lost most of its original charm. Vegetables and fruits have been replaced by tourist souvenirs, farmers in traditional ponchos are overwhelmed by tourists with cameras, shy indigenous vendors by new entrepreneurs wearing the latest model of fake Ray Ban glasses and a gilded kitschy watch. Over the centuries, Otavalo became the best place to buy souvenirs or clothing in South America, while the Indians, for whom the market was originally established, were forced to retreat to the outskirts of the main plaza in central town.

I had to postpone the visit to Galapagos Islands for next occasion as the impact on my limited budget would be too harsh. I opted for a much cheaper alternative, Isla de la Plata. The name – Silver Islands – comes from the legend that Sir Francis Drake hid Spanish treasure somewhere among the rocky cliffs. Recently the islands are also called the Poor Man’s Galapagos – suitable for people with limited resources that cannot afford Galapagos Islands.

Early in the morning we took a boat form the fishing village of Puerto Lopez in Manabí Province. The old wooden boat was provided by the cheapest tour agency in town. It didn’t fill me with the confidence that we would be calmly navigating the open sea for the next two hours. The sea was calm, passengers a mix group of ages and nationalities were hopeful to spot animals in their natural environment.

Suddenly out of the blue a spark plug flied through the air in the middle of the open sea and after a short coughing the engine turned off. Our boat turned into a helpless floating raft, the waves were increasing, we knew we were in troubles.

“Does anybody have a chocolate?”, a young captain asked the passengers after 10 minutes of unsuccessfully repairing the engine. “Sure, here you have and sweeten up your day!”, a young American backpacker offered him a sweet desert. The captain tried to fasten the spark plug to its original position with the help of aluminum foil, originally used to wrap the chocolate, but the engine only sadly nodded a few times. He continued to pull the cord in hopeless attempts to restart the engine. Unfortunately, it didn’t work.

Before the replacement boat arrived an hour later, most passengers experienced the effects of seasickness, panic and mistrust. Those who did not vomit into the sea, while we were tossed by the great waves of the Pacific Ocean, threw up their breakfast later on land. Consequently, hike around the island turned into an eternal marathon for many. Luckily, I wasn’t among them and enjoyed beautiful view of rocky cliffs, steep paths, beautiful lookouts, gracefully rolling hills and azure sea with strong waves hitting the rocks.

Due to this delay, we had less time to explore the island. I didn’t expect to spot any turtles, iguanas or sea lions, so typical of the Galapagos Islands. However, we located quite a few interesting birds, especially large and clumsy ones, which I was able to approach to just a few steps. Blue-footed boobies and frigate birds are the most memorable ones. Snorkeling was fun; colorful fishes and some corals were identified in clear waters with great visibility. On the way back dolphins and flying fishes were following us for quite some time.

Ecuador’s largest city is not the capital city Quito, but Guayaquil on the coastline. In 1997 Guayaquil was not the best place to visit. Insecurity, heat, humidity and shortage of interesting landmarks, comparing to the rest of the country, didn’t make it worthwhile to invest time into touring around it.

Even though I only stopped there for two hours to change buses, Guayaquil bus terminal remained in my memory. After arriving at the bus station my plan was to purchase a bus ticket to Baños. As in most commercial situations in Ecuador, it is also necessary to negotiate the price for bus transportation.

As soon as I got off the bus, I was surrounded by five representatives of various transport companies who were offering me tickets to the next destination. The official price is 25,000 sucres and they offered me a special discount of 2,000 sucres even without me saying anything. The vendors continue competing with each other, who would offer me more competitive price, better seats or more comfortable conditions on their buses. I just watched them with interest until they stopped at 13,000 sucres. It was so entertaining observing them, that I offered 10,000 sucres to see what would happen.

They tried to convince me that my offer was ridiculously low and completely unacceptable, but I stayed firm in my decision. “We are three passengers, my sister and myself are students and my mom came to visit me. We have limited resources and your buses are empty.”, was my reasoning behind the offer. Slowly everyone but an elderly lady left: “OK gringo, come with me.”, she agreed to my offer.

Persistence in bargaining pays off in Latin America. Nevertheless, in case you manage to negotiate lower price, it is very important to keep your promise and buy the product or service under conditions you agreed on.

The town’s location itself is something special, let alone pleasantly soothing water in a natural spa. In recent years, Baños has developed into a destination that no foreign visitors can’t afford to miss. Somehow, in 1997 I was not that much impressed with the transformation of a small village to a tourist destination at the foot of the Tungurahua volcano.

Very little authentic Ecuador is left here; most restaurants offer burgers, pizzas or Chinese delicacies instead of traditional local cuisine. The central market is rather poorly stocked for Ecuadorian standards and availability of locally manufactured products is limited. There are varieties of crafts from balsa and tagua made in surrounding areas and resold at higher prices.

At an altitude of 1,820 meters above sea level, the so-called El Pedacito de Cielo – The Little Piece of Heaven, is located at the entrance to the Amazon jungle; a starting point for trips to the rainforest. I didn’t decide to visit the rainforest in this area, but rather in Bolivia later during the trip, where it is more picturesque and less expensive.

At the time of my first visit in 1997 Baños was just starting to develop a portfolio of activities.  The Basilica of the Virgin of the Rosary of Agua Santa, visit to different waterfalls and relaxation in thermal waters, were pretty much the only activities available.

Through the years the offer increased dramatically and during my return in 2003, Baños transformed into a mayor tourist hub, with capacity to host and entertain thousands of tourists on a weekly basis. I participated in a unique canyoning and rafting experience, as well as in a three days horse trekking around neighboring villages with spectacular views over Tungurahua volcano and mountains.

One of the most memorizing experience was a visit to a sauna, where my body was capsuled in a wooden box, while my head was free to permit me breathing of fresh surrounding air. A unique experience, that differs from regular sauna where the whole body, including head is exposed to high temperatures and breathing is not so pleasant.

I was sat on a bench, the wooden box around my body was closed, leaving only my head outside. A handle that allowed me to regulate the flow of hot, humid air into my private sauna, was within reach of my right hand. After some time, the owner opened the wooden box, called me out of the pleasant hot cage, opened the tap with cold water and splashed me all over the body. Undaunted, I returned to the warm shelter of my sauna and once again indulged in the hot steam. The procedure was repeated for some times more.

During the interview at a Slovenian power tools company in the autumn of 2000, I noticed that the head of HR in my CV, which was exposed in front of him, had a text highlighted: Level of knowledge of Spanish language – perfect. After a few minutes he asked me the decisive question: “So, you can speak Spanish and you are familiar with Ecuador?” I firmly confirmed that in addition to fluent communication in the Spanish language, I am familiar with the local culture, customs and way of thinking, as I have been traveling throughout Latin America for a year.

“Are you interested in moving to Quito for the next four years and run our subsidiary that needs a complete transformation to become a profitable business unit?”

Without hesitation I confirmed my interest and disposal to return to one of my favorite countries on the continent, where I could also start my real professional career, since my only working experience until that time was a year of apprentice after the university graduation.

I started my Ecuador business adventure in the era, when the country was a complete disaster: hyperinflation, political instability, indigenous protest and unsupportive international environment, lack of foreign currency, bankruptcy of financial system and high unemployment rate. Still, Quito was one of the safest places to live in Latin America and from my travelling experience I knew that kindness and humble people in the Andes can be converted to cooperative coexistence that would help me to transform the subsidiary on the verge of bankruptcy to a successful unit in the corporation Hidria, which was my employer.

Approximately a hundred workers received me with distrust, as I was only 28 years old and far less experienced than my renowned predecessor. But they soon realized that I could make up for my lack of experience by using common sense, meticulousness, hard work and respect for employees.

When the business was handed over by my predecessors, I quickly realized that he had spent the last few years in Quito more vacationing and devoting most of his time to learning the Spanish language rather than seriously engaging for the success of the company. The best evidence was the IT manager’s explanation that, due to non-usage, the desktop computer had been removed from under predecessor’s desk leaving him only with a monitor. He didn’t notice that he was without the computer, since he was not using it at all!

Local currency sucre was replaced by US dollar as an official currency, the inflation stabilized, banks started operating normally, the economy got a big push, construction projects were reactivated and the confidence of foreign investors was restored.

I visited the biggest hardware shops in all mayor Ecuadorian cities: Guayaquil, Cuenca, Riobamba, Loja, Ambato and Santo Domingo. Flying and driving I got a chance to see the country from different perspectives, appreciate contrasts between poverty and wealth, lowlands and highlands.

Local hardware stores, where humble owners offered me a wooden box to sit and highly appreciate my visit versus powerful trade chains, where overbearing purchase managers kept me waited before pushing for more discounts or better payment conditions.

I flew to Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Peru, Colombia, Venezuela and Mexico to restart the presence for our Swiss branded power tools on international markets. Weekend trips to save time, full dedication, long hours working time, open talks with employees and better support from mother company brought me respect by my coworkers and other employees. On the international level I closed down Mexican branch soon, even though working with Mexico would be a huge privilege as my favorite country in Latin America, that offers countless opportunity.

In only two years we turned around the profitability of the company, opened a subsidiary in Colombia and positioned the brand as number 1 in Ecuador. I started to travel to Cali in Colombia on a monthly bases, worked there for a week and also paid a visit to other areas of Colombia.

The speaking skills of Colombians, their compelling communication and the gift of efficiently persuading customers is at a significantly higher level than in Ecuador. However, I soon realized that collective dishonesty in business causes more harm than good, so we valued paying more attention to the honesty of the employees than to their sales skills. It is sad, but true.

Seven months before the end of my mandate I established a branch office in the capital of Peru, as we managed to list our power tools in the largest retail chains in the country. The business operation has become so successful that finally owners from Slovenia decided to pay a visit to Ecuador. Unfortunately, I was gone by then, since I voluntarily interrupted my four years mandate six month before it was officially ending in 2004 due to constant headaches at high altitude in Quito. Well, the resignation offered me an escape for the next long trip to Africa, since my bank account was loaded with savings as never before and priorities were still to explore the world, rather than create wealth for already reach bosses and owners of the company.

One of the most peculiar parts of my working experience in Quito was a cooperation with Ecuadorian Army. A business division of Ecuadorian Army is responsible to invest money in prospects, where they could receive above average returns, strategically important businesses or arms related companies.

They were a minor shareholder in our company since the foundation in the 1970s, but had never received dividends. They were desperate to sell out their share. Their presence on yearly board of directors meeting was legendary. Usually two to three high ranking active officers were accompanying the highest authority, who was a retired general. When arriving they were always saluting to each other, some of them dressed in uniforms: “Salud, mi general! Salud mi general!”.

My secretary prepared bowls of chocolate candies, sweets and small snacks, which were quickly emptied during the sessions. Their lack of economic knowledge was replaced by determination and arrogance, that they as retired soldiers are capable of doing anything.

Especially interesting was negotiation for buyout of their stocks to the majority shareholder from Slovenia. Since the company evaluation was much lower than their expectations, they were not willing to drop the price to expectations that the other shareholder had. Their pride, logics and position were only changed during unformal negotiations with their financial advisor, who was a civilian. They suggested to move to more informal environment into one of the luxury hotels, where they relaxed without bodyguards and lower ranking officials next to them. Both sides soon found the compromise that was cheered with large amounts of exclusive wine.

The only privilege I got from being closely connected with the top generals in Ecuador army was an inexpensive ticket on a cargo plane from Quito to Galapagos islands. The cargo flight was reserved for transport of goods to a military base on the island, not fitted for transferring passengers. We sat on the side benches, holding for the hooks of the plastic net, while the unbearable noise filled our ears during takeoff and landing. A memorable experience to reach the unique tourist attraction.

Since the flight was scheduled only every two weeks, I stayed on Galapagos island for much more time than common visitors, exploring the mainland for a week and cruising around on the sea for a week.

This archipelago of volcanic islands in the Eastern Pacific, located around 1,500 kilometers west of the Ecuadorian mainland is famous for large number of endemic species, which were studied by Charles Darwin in the 1830s and inspired his theory of evolution by means of natural selection.

There are basically four groups of activities:

• Numerous contemporaneous volcanoes, volcanic structures and even eruptions: Sierra Negra, Wolf, Fernandina, Cerro Azul, La Cumbre, … Walking on volcanic rocks, observing craters and exploring colorful structures connected me to this kind of landscape for the first time in my life and completely fascinated me.
• Underwater world of fish, corals and other creatures accessible through diving and snorkeling. The water was a little bit too cold for comfortable swimming, but snorkeling was superb. Sharks, colorful corals, sea lions approaching and playing around me, turtles and various species of fish.

• Animals that move around the island as if there were no people around. This is probably the most unique feature for me in Galapagos. I saw many animals in variety of environments around the world, but only in Galapagos I was obliged to walk around a lazy sea lion in order to avoid stepping on it. Lizards seem to not be afraid at all, while I have never approached birds so closely, before they would fly away or actually just move a few steps to let me know that I should keep the distance. I actually got an impression that animals here don’t know, how cruel the humans can be.

• Galapagos giant tortoise – the largest living species of tortoise, weighing over 400 kilograms with lifespans in the wild of over 150 years. Tortoise numbers declined from over 250,000 in the 16^th century to a low of around 15,000 in the 1970s, growing again to an estimated 19,000 at the beginning of the 21^st There are 13 living species of Galapagos tortoises that migrated from South America to the archipelago some two to three million years ago. Standing next to these old giants, listening to their breaths or perceiving chewing process, inspired me with tranquility and serenity.

PS. My camera broke down during the trip around Galapagos islands, therefore I have no photos from that trip.

In 2019 I visited Ecuador with my Panamanian partner, 2 kids and my mum. Travelling through a familiar region of Colombia, Ecuador and Peru was an intriguing experience. At that time, we had already lived in Panama for many years, so the Latino atmosphere, language and culture were part of our everyday life.

It was thought-provoking to observe the changes that had taken place in the last fifteen years since I left Ecuador. A lot of new buildings and infrastructure in Quito, a significant increase in the vehicle fleet and some innovations in the tourist offer (cable car up the east side of Pichincha Volcano) were the main changes.

Through conversations with Quiteños and my local friends, I noticed a lot of fear and restlessness because of the current security situation. “It’s not safe to walk around at night. Be careful with your phone on the street, as a motorist can drive by and take it from you. Extortion threats in broad daylight are a daily occurrence.“, were some of the most common warnings.

We settled down in a beautiful apartment next to Parque La Carolina in the financial and business heart of the city. One of the principal recreational areas of the metropolitan area has quickly become the most popular spot for my kids. In the park they could play, run, relax, paddle across the lagoon with a boat, taste local food and watch the crowds of people over the weekend.

Ascending by cable car up to 3,497 meters above sea level to Cruz Loma gave us an opportunity to observe the difference in vegetation due to the height change and enjoy the spectacular view of the capital from bird perspective. Almost flying on a large swing, walking through unspoiled nature at such a height and enjoying the views is spectacular. Finally, we rented horses at a very reasonable price, to ascend even higher under Volcano Pichincha. From a tourist perspective, the cable car is certainly the city’s biggest acquisition for Quito in recent decades.

“Cuenca is different. Cuencanos are friendly, educated, connected, happy to receive guests. They take time for visitors and honestly express their opinion.”, where the word of my working colleagues before my first business visit of this colonial gem that lays sprawled out amidst the Andes mountains that surround the city. Ecuador’s third-largest city, once inhabited by the Incas, is also called Athens of Ecuador due to its cultural diversity, contribution to Ecuadorian arts, sciences, literature, and for being the birthplace of many illustrious figures of Ecuadorian society. Cuenca is designated as one of only three of Ecuador’s cultural UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

If meeting business partners, negotiating deals or enjoying delicious food was a norm in the past, in 2019 we were very unlucky with weather conditions that impacted on enjoying Cuenca properly. Constant rain had knocked the temperature down not only outside, but also inside our apartment. Without proper heating we were struggling to warm up, using all available blankets.

Cathedral de la Inmaculada is one of the largest churches in South America with gold leaf-covered altar, the local market is fully stocked with fruits and vegetables. A spiritual cleansing process (called limpia) to help rid anything terrible from within that has been passed down through generations, is still popular.

The highlight of our visit in Cuenca was a religious festival called Corpus Christi. During a week every June, the city is adorned with delicious displays of every candy that you can imagine. We mixed with families, who mingle around the city center, where bakers and pâtissiers cover stalls with colorful sweets. Buying, savoring sweet treats and celebrating at the same time attracts local crowds as well as people from all around the country. Religious processions, town bands and the explosive fireworks close each day of celebrations during Corpus Christi, but the weather slightly spoiled the joy this time.

Saraguro is situated in the southern Andes range, nestled between the urban areas of Cuenca and Loja. Historically, the Saraguro community, belonging to the Kichwa nation, spoke exclusively Runashimi or Kichwa. However, in the present day, they are proficient in speaking Spanish in addition to their native languages. They have managed to keep a significant portion of their territory, traditions, and traditional attire, all while honoring their Inca roots.

The Saraguros stand out as the sole indigenous community in the region to have successfully withstood the Spanish invasion. They have preserved their cultural practices and lifestyle, making them one of the most intact indigenous groups in Ecuador.

Through the central tourist office in Saraguro town, I was directed to one of the homestays, where we spent the next two days, working, eating and exploring the culture with Saraguro family. They are particularly recognized for their unique style of clothing. Men wear ponchos, pants that reach the knees, and wide-brimmed white hats made of sheep’s wool with a spotted pattern. Women wear long black skirts, black wraps, necklaces, bracelets and collars with multi-stranded glass beads, along with black/white hats. Although hats are used almost exclusively for special occasions. Their beautiful black hair grows long and are braided into a single long braid.

Together, we licked the corn, helped with small tasks in the garden, prepared bread dough, ate dinner and talked about how they can continue to cultivate their traditional culture and resist the pressure of modernity. The hosts (husband and wife) are also excellent musicians. In a small studio, they played some songs on traditional instruments and sang in the Kichwa language.

This was one of the most unique experiences with indigenes groups in South America, where I was able to appreciate their culture, live and help maintaining it in a very proactive way.

Ecuador is a special country. Not only due to my personal connection through years of visiting, travelling, living and working in this South American state, but mainly because of historical importance from Pre-Columbian civilizations, being one of the most colorful countries in the world, location on the Equator line, volcanos, biodiversity and unique Galapagos islands.

Visiting Ecuador during various occasions as a backpacker on a long transcontinental trip, as an expat running a company in demanding economic environment and as a father with two kids, I had a chance to live, understand and savor Ecuador from various perspectives. The country has changed from being an adventurous, inexpensive destination for backpackers in 1990s to a rather dangerous area where drug trafficking, robberies, blackmailing and kidnaping have marked not only the coastal zone, but also always peaceful Andean region in 2020s.

The socialism of 20^th century, which was supposed to bring more progress to poor and middle class, has transformed lives of average Ecuadorians to the wrong direction. Ecuador remains a banana country that has used petrol-based incomes to increase official statistics of development, but the quality of life for individuals has not improved according to the expectations.

I sincerely hope that the politicians and army will find the path of returning Ecuador to the tracks of peace, honesty and security.