Peru

Visited: May 1997, December 2022, July 2019

Duration of visit: 2.5 months

Capital city: Lima

Population: 34 million (2022)

• Lima – the capital of contradictions where one third of Peruvians live: from prestige areas of Miraflores, to historical Plaza de Armas and the poorest pueblos jovenes.
• Trekking Inca trail to the hidden city of Machu Picchu: four days, 50 kilometers, above 4.000 meters for a splendid view over the ruins below Huayna Picchu.
• Magic in the air: condors flying over Canyon Colca.
• Navigating to Uros islands made of totora reeds on Lake Titikaka – the highest navigable lake in the World at 3,820 m above sea level.
• Driving a car from Quito to Lima and back, stopping in Huaraz and Chiclayo.
• Exploring the north of Peru on a family trip in 2019: Máncora, Lord of Sipan Museum, Catarata la Chinata.
• Navigating Amazon river from Yurimaguas through Iquitos to Las Tres fronteras.

It is hard to find a traveler who would not find something for his soul in Peru. The third largest country in South America is known in the world primarily as the successor to the magnificent Inca civilization, the natural beauty of Colca Canyon, vast rainforest of Amazon river, the world’s highest navigable Lake Titicaca, Nazca lines, many other natural beauties and some great museums in the capital Lima. Anyone who can’t find something magical in Peru, should probably avoid traveling to other Latin American countries and maybe consider doing something else in his life.

I visited Peru on many occasions for different purposes:

• In 1997 Peru was part of my 15-months Big Tour around Americas, which started in New York City and ended 15 months later in Argentina. I spent over a month from the northern border, through Lima, Islas Ballestas, Nazca, Ica, Arequipa, Canyon Colca, Titicaca lake, Cusco and Machu Picchu.
• Overland trip by my own car from Quito to Lima in 2003, when I lived in the capital of Ecuador was focused on the northern area of Peru: Chiclayo, Trujillo, Huaraz, Cajamarca.
• Business trips between 2000 and 2004 and later in 2012, focused on business meetings with local companies exclusively in Lima. Luxury hotels, delicious food in prestige restaurants were part of the package.
• Family trip to the northern part of Peru in 2019: Máncora, Tarapoto, navigating Amazon river and Iquitos.

When crossing the border from Ecuador to Peru, I experienced the most beautiful reception by custom officials on the entire trip through Latin America. Friendly customs officers helped me filling out the forms, offerd useful advices and wished me a pleasant stay. And so it was! From the first drive with a big, stylish Chevrolet from the 1960s, reminding on rock & roll king Elvis Presley, until the last day when exiting the border towards Chile. Many people scared me before coming to Peru about the danger in the capital Lima, robbery attacks while trekking on Machu Picchu, etc. I have successfully avoided all these. Even more, Peru definitely ranks at the top three of my favorite countries to visit on American continent.

On the other side Peru today is far from being a paradise for majority of Peruvians in 1997. Most people are very unsatisfied with the current situation in their homeland. Extreme poverty, unemployment, racial discrimination, ongoing political scandals and terrorist riots have put Peru on the brink of collapse. Everyone blames President Fujimori for the problems, being a real dictator.

They might be right, as he practically eliminated the role of democratically elected parliament, positioned himself as the army leader, suppressed most of his opponents and successfully controls the rest. But only after open consideration did most of my interlocutors assure me that the real problem is hidden in people themselves. If we consider that all Peruvians of legal age must vote (otherwise they pay a heavy fine), they could have changed the direction of the country long ago, at least indirectly.

From Ecuadorian border I took a bus directly to Lima. During the 20-hour drive, we stopped several times at customs checkpoints, where Peruvian passengers were treated as some kind of smugglers by local authorities. While foreigners where not checked at all, their luggage was taken out of the bus, opened, scanned, investigated and even checked by specially trained dogs. I guess drugs are the main reason for suspicion. In addition, smuggling without payment of import duties and taxes is strictly controlled, but permitted in the case of paying a bribe.

Peruvian coast is a dry desert; no vegetation anywhere. The road is perfect, traffic limited, the view to beautiful sandy beaches along Pacific Ocean are tempting to get off the bus and swim into the sea. Later I realized that waters of Pacific in the north of Peru can be rather cold.

A few kilometers before arriving to Lima our bus broke down. After inspecting the engine for 20 minutes, both drivers and the conductor agreed: “We ran out of petrol. It will be necessary to go to the gas station.” Clever assumption that could be easily prevented. Maybe the reason was that the chief driver was sleeping in the luggage compartment behind the back wheel, on the lower deck of the bus. I couldn’t believe when I saw him waking up and crawling out of his improvised sleeping room.

The first feelings on arrival to Lima suburbs were anything but pleasant, which was probably also due to fatigue after a long drive. In addition to traffic chaos, roads were covered with desert sand that also accumulated on the tin roofs of half-ruined houses in the poorest neighborhood of the capital.

We definitely approached Lima from the wrong side - through the so-called pueblos jovenes, where basic huts are built without planning, permission, nor infrastructure on public areas.  Modest cottages are extremely colorful at least from outside, but they rarely have electricity or running water. When the bus broke down for the second time, I was doubtful that we would arrive to downtown at all on this bus. Flat tire was surprisingly quickly fixed and we managed the last part to the bus terminal.

The third-largest city in South America, after São Paulo and Buenos Aires, the culinary capital, home to almost a third of Peruvians, colonial architecture with beautiful buildings decorated with carved wooden balconies and baroque ornaments. Among travelers, Lima is considered one of the least popular cities in South America due to skillful pickpockets. It gained this bad reputation a few years ago when many locals and travelers got into various problems with bribed police officers and professionally organized pickpockets’ groups, but since then the situation has improved considerably. City authorities began to realize that foreign visitors were a much-needed source of foreign currency for indebted state, so they provided additional security at the most frequented points.

For many locals, white gringos are a real attraction. Seductive Peruvian women are especially enthusiastic about tall Europeans or rich Americans. If a visitor speaks Spanish, he will never be bored, because there is always a local guide or admirer in search of information about the promised land on the other side of the world.

Lima is the city of contrast: rich and poor, cheap and expensive, historical and modern. There are different areas within the same city that don’t have much in common. Different racial structure is also obvious when you switch a zone. I spent most of the time in historical downtown, so I was impressed when visiting prestige Miraflores area. Modernly landscaped seaside neighborhood of Lima reminded me quite a bit of California coastline. Surfers test their skills on big waves of the Pacific Ocean; among the tall glass buildings in expensive restaurants and night bars white people from the upper classes, with a specific dialect, are predominant.

During numerous occasions combined I spent almost a month in the city of Lima. I drove around with my own vehicle, used public transport and different kind of taxis (particulars or shared taxis). I experienced garúa – the fine sea mist that enfolds the city all year round and gives it this melancholic sadness, causing coldness due to high humidity. The temperatures are in general not so low, but there is no other place in the world, where I would experience such a cold as here in Lima. It is true, I was not properly dressed. But how can you expect freezing on a beach.

Some of the most important landmarks according to my own opinion are the following:

Plaza de Armas (also called Plaza Mayor) with La Catedral and Palacio del Gobierno is the hearth of historical Lima. In 1535 the conqueror of Peru, Francisco Pizarro, founded a new capital city for Peru which he called "City of Kings". After the earthquake of 1746, when most of the buildings from the original city were lost, the whole area was reconstructed. On the place where Jose San Martín declared the Independence of Peru on 28^th July, 1821, Palacio del Gobierno, official residence of the president was constructed. During the colonial era, the plaza served as a market, bull fighting ring, and the city gallows. Today a beautiful park on the plaza is a place for photo shooting for many tourists and locals and enjoy the changing of the guard at the Government Palace.

Basílica y Convento de San Francisco de Lima is the greatest and most noble monument that the conquest erected in these wonderful lands of Peru. They consist of three churches: San Francisco, La Soledad and El Milagro, which are made in beautiful baroque architectural style. Inside the churches there are fine works of art of great historical and economic value. However, what is most striking are its extensive underground cloisters, the catacombs. They are a series of vaults built underground used for the burial of members of brotherhoods since colonial times.

Parque del Amor (Love Park) is laid out on the cliffs of Chorrillos - Miraflores, creating an illusion of floating over the Pacific Ocean. A small park, entirely dedicated to all lovers and offers a stunning view of the bay of Lima in particularly romantic setting at sunrise and sunset. The surrounding walls are artfully decorated with mosaics. In the center of the park the statue El Beso (The Kiss) features a couple passionately absorbed in the act of kissing. It is a favorite hangout spot for people in love of all ages.

The city's most romantic and bohemian district, being home and working place of many Peruvian leading artists, musicians, designers and photographers is Barranco. Barranco's beaches are among the most popular within the worldwide surfing community; especially in the summer Pacific is warm enough for swimming as well. Mural-splattered buildings, tasty local treats, colorful street art, tucked away bars and coffee shops, vibrant old mansions and summer houses, beautiful museums, delicious food, and plenty of bohemian vibes.

Puente de los Suspiros a dizzying wooden footbridge that straddles a narrow alley hollowed into the cliff. It comes with a legend that states that if you make a wish and hold your breath for the entire time you walk across the 100-foot bridge, then your wish will come true.

I continued the journey to the south, where the most interesting attractions along the coast are located. A short boat ride from Paracas, rocky islands of Islas Ballestas are scattered in the Pacific Ocean. Ideal conditions created by the Humboldt Current enable the animal inhabitants of the Ballestas and the nearby Paracas Peninsula to thrive. The cold current pulls up water from the ocean floor, bringing lower temperatures and nutrients to the surface. These conditions create an ideal feeding zone for fish, consequently drawing larger predators.

I have seen thousands of squawking birds, penguins and roaring sea lions on the islands. In fact, there are so many of them that we couldn’t even step on the islands; we observed them right from the boat. Environmental laws prevent visitors from landing on the islands, so we were cruising their perimeters, arches, and caves for close-up wildlife observation.

For many centuries, seabirds have deposited their guano on the Ballestas Islands and other isles of Peru. And since the time of the Incas, this guano has been used as a fertilizer. Some of the animals that we spotted were:

• Guanays – easy to distinguish from other cormorants because they have red circles around their eyes and white bellies.
• Humboldt penguins only populate the coast of Peru and northern Chile, living up to twenty years, eating anchovies, herring, and other fish.
• Peruvian boobies are year-round residents of the Ballestas Islands and close cousins with blue-footed boobies that inhabit the Galapagos Islands.
• Chocolate-colored South American sea lions are among the most charismatic residents. Huge males can weigh up to 350 kilograms; females are about half the size and weight.
• Gray fur seals and Peruvian pelicans can be found up and down the coast of Peru.

The most interesting moment is when a whole flock of birds make a move from one island to another. A few kilometers long line of flying birds only centimeters above sea level remind on a long rope that never ends.

Who did some of those weird images in the middle of desert in Nazca area? Images of monkeys, trees, birds and hands exceed the size of 400 meters, so you can’t even see them from the land. Were they Martians, Indians, or anyone else? Is it a calendar, maybe even symbols for getting to know extraterrestrial civilizations?

Everyone can interpret them in their own way and everybody is thrilled, when they observe The Nazca Lines during a half-hour flight on a small plane. I wonder how the Indians could have made these lines so accurately if they had never seen them from the air.

Nazca lines represent a group of geoglyphs made in the soil of the Nazca Desert between 500 BC and 500 AD. The lines are typically 10 to 15 cm deep; combined length of all the lines is more than 1,300 kilometers. They were made by removing the top layer of reddish-brown iron oxide-coated pebbles to reveal a yellow-grey subsoil. Because of its isolation and the dry, windless, stable climate of the plateau, the lines have mostly been preserved naturally.

Due to the same dry and windless conditions Chauchilla Cemetery stayed practically intact from 9^th century until 1920s, when discovered. In the middle of the desert nearby Nazca, the cemetery contains pre-Hispanic mummified human remains and archeological artifacts. The bodies are so remarkably preserved due to the dry climate in the Peruvian Desert that they seem much younger. Well, mummification experts prepared death bodies in a special way, clothed them in embroidered cotton, painted with a resin and kept in purpose-built tombs, made from mud bricks.

I gratefully declined organized trips and visited Canyon Colca on my own. In the village of Cabanaconde we stayed in the only guesthouse; without electricity, only with icy-cold water available. The local people maintain their ancestral traditions and continue to cultivate the pre-Inca stepped terraces. In the late afternoon many of them were walking back from the fields, carrying crops and dry corn straws. At an altitude above 3,200 meters temperatures dropped below 0°C at night. Hotel walls were made of dried mud to protect from the cold air outside, since there was no heating in the room.

The next morning it was necessary to get up early, just before six o'clock. I took a bus to the picturesque canyon, where we arrived an hour later. With a depth of about 1,000 to 2,000 m Canyon Colca is one of the deepest canyons in the world.

Around ten o’clock the largest birds in the world – Andean condors - start showing first signs of activities. When Kings of the Andes, one of the largest birds weighting in average 12 kilograms, spread their wings during a flight, they reach a range of over 2.5 meters. Approaching midday, the flights were longer and a kind of exhibition or flying parade over our heads was getting full of splendor, until approximately twenty condors together gloriously flew a few feet above us. Condors take advantage of the different currents of hot air to be able to launch themselves into flight over the canyon walls. They are carrion animals, so on their flight, they are in search of their next objectives, taking full advantage of their extraordinary vision.

I was so excited about the condors that I returned to Colca Canyon the next morning and enjoyed this incredible performance of condors again.

Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable lake at an altitude of 3,820m above the sea level. It is divided between Bolivia and Peru. Peru has more benefits out of it, both in the size and from the tourist income.

Among many islands, the most famous are floating islands made of totora reeds on the Peruvian side, inhabited by the Uros tribe. Out of 2,000 Uros people that remain in Peru, around 1,200 still live on the floating islands of Lake Titicaca, but younger generations tend to move to the mainland. Homes, boats, and the islands themselves are all made of totora reeds. Most of Uros islands were located near the middle of the lake. In 1986, after a major storm devastated their islands, many Uros rebuilt their new homes closer to the shore. If a threat emerged, they could simply move their islands elsewhere in the lake.

Their lifestyle has been greatly modernized in the 20^th century, but some of them still live very simply. There is no electricity; the water comes from the lake, where all the waste ends; food is based on fish, potatoes and particular non-flying birds. Men take care of the restoration of reed ground, which sink constantly. Women try to please tourists demand for souvenirs, photos and food. Most children are well trained to extend their hands and approach gringos asking for money, candy, fruits or other goodies.

The small totora reed island with a diameter of about 50 meters that I visited, was made exclusively for tourist purposes. On the neighboring, less touristy islands, the ground has already solidified fairly: Coca Cola replaced water, solar panels - candles, evening conversations have been substituted by telenovelas.

To make an island, the Uros people create a sturdy but light base tying together layers of totora roots, which are bundled and stacked with many layers of totora reeds. The new island is anchored into the bottom of the lake with rope. The islanders can maintain each island for up to 30 years, constantly adding new layers of reeds once a week during the rainy season and once a month during the dry season.

I saved old Incas capital Cusco with The Lost City of Machu Picchu for the grand finale of a month-long travelling around Peru, before returning to Lima. Who hasn’t heard of the capital of Inca civilization in the middle of the Andean highlands? Once Cusco was connected by road to the most important cities in the area of ​​present-day Peru, Ecuador, and Bolivia. When Spanish conquered Inca empire in 1532, Cusco stood out as one of the most developed cities in the world. The Incas empire stretched from modern-day Argentina to southern Columbia, from the early 15^th century up until its conquest by the Spanish in the 1530s.

The Incas crafted magnificent objects from gold and silver, but perhaps their most striking examples of art were in the form of textiles, made of alpaca or vicuna wool and cotton. Inca stone-working abilities were also formidable. Their craftsmen fitted building stone together perfectly without using any mortar. The most evident example of this technique is visible at Sacsayhuaman, near Cuzco, where huge, heavy stones were joined together witch such precaution, that an object as thin as a razor blade could not be inserted between the stones.

The fate of the entire Inca Empire was sealed, when Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizzaro assassinated the last influential Inca ruler, Atahualpa, and began a conquest march throughout the empire. He destroyed everything that came to his hands and to make the humiliation even greater converted the most sacred Incas temples to churches or left them in ruins.

Fortunately, he never managed to discover Machu Picchu, hidden among the Andean peaks only approximately 100 kilometers from Cusco. Today Machu Picchu has become a sort of pilgrimage destination of South America for visitors from all over the world. Everyone comes here to see the ruins of the lost city, but they do it in different ways. The starting point is Cusco, from where, depending on budget, physical condition and time available you choose the mode of travel. Reach and wealthy arrive by helicopter in 25 minutes; tourists usually board a train (3 hours); adventurists and backpackers with a little less money, more time available and adventurous spirit opt for two to four-day trekking.

I decided for the last option, which I consider the most interesting though also exhausting. I joined a group of international travelers, who spent the next few days panting along the remnant paths among Andean mountains. We walked approximately 50 kilometers, climbed to an altitude of 4,200 meters on the second day and spent almost ten hours daily on Inca trail. All the effort was rewarded on the fourth day of our hike.

At the sunrise a beautiful view opened up in front of me; the mysterious Machu Picchu, illuminated with the first morning sunbeams. It really is something special and worth all the effort! A 15^th century Inca citadel of the Lost City of the Incas is the most familiar icon of Inca civilization with a small mountain Huayna Picchu in the background. A local guide conducted us through Temple of the Sun, the Room of the Three Windows and other temples of the upper town, clearly outstanding via the architecture adapted to the mountain’s slopes. Personally, I appreciated location and magical surrounding as much as the archeological remains of great Incas civilization.  All of this before tourist groups arrived by train and turned the place into a chaotic photo shooting scene.

Peruvian cuisine has been developing for millennia across three distinct regions, reflecting local practices and ingredients including influences mainly from the indigenous population and cuisines brought by immigrants from Europe and especially Asia (predominantly Japanese). Recently Peruvian traditional staples (corn, potatoes, quinoa, beans and lupins) have increased in international popularity. Traditional seafood, meat and vegetables mix fusion with Japanese flavor and dishes have evolved into the most respected culinary delights on American continent.

My favorite Peruvian dishes are:

• Papas a la Huancaina (Potatoes in Spicy Cheese Sauce) - a yellow sauce over yellow potatoes topped with yellow-yoked hard-boiled eggs. The sauce is the ingredient that makes a difference: purée of fresh cheese, aji amarillo, garlic, evaporated milk, lime juice and saltine crackers.
• Causa (Potato Casserole) - yellow Peruvian potatoes blended with lime, oil and spicy aji amarillo On top shredded tuna, salmon, or chicken are mixed with mayo, followed by layers of avocado, hardboiled eggs, and olives.
• Chicharrón de mariscos o pescado – mixed fried seafood or fish.
• Tiradito de pescado (sashimi) - thinly sliced raw fish covered with a special sauce using yellow chilis, garlic and cilantro.

Since I don’t eat meat, my list can be biased, so I will add some other dishes that are on top of the list, but I haven’t appreciated them: lomo saltado (chopped steak), aji de gallina (spicy chicken), anticuchos (beef heart kebabs) and cuy chactado (fried guinea pig).

A special position goes to cebiche. Cebiche (in English ceviche) is considered the most representative dish of Peru. Its history dates back to pre-Columbian times. There is a great diversity of cebiches between the different coastal regions of Peru. The basic ingredients of any classic Peruvian cebiche are pieces of fish, onion and lemon juice, which must be exclusively Piuran lemon, from the Chira Valley. Other ingredients such as julienned red onion, cilantro, corn and celery can also be added. To prepare it, the fish is mixed with the other ingredients, leaving it to marinate according to taste. There are different types of ceviche, as well as dishes derived from it, which have achieved great popularity. The most popular are: fish ceviche, mixed ceviche, black shell ceviche, shrimp ceviche and octopus ceviche.

My favorite deserts are mazamorra morada (purple corn jam) and arroz con leche (rice pudding) combined in one dish and churros. Even though churros origin is Spain, they have been perfectionated to masterpiece in Lima. Churros rellenos are made by frying a doughnut-shaped pastry in oil and then filling it with a sweet filling such as chocolate or dulce de leche. The enticing smell coming from the transparent glass boxes, where they are displayed on the pavements of the old part of the city, is unforgettable. Placed under a hot bulb to stay warm and dusted with powdered sugar to make them just right sweet.

What about drinks?

Pisco sour, an alcoholic cocktail prepared from pisco, freshly squeezed lemon juice, simple syrup, ice, egg white, and Angostura bitters is the most famous Peruvian cocktail. The main ingredient pisco is a colorless or yellowish-to-amber colored brandy, made by distilling fermented grape juice into a high-proof spirit. It was developed by Spanish settlers in the 16^th century.

Chicha morada is a non-alcoholic beverage produced of purple corn, which is abundantly grown and harvested along the Andes Mountains. Traditionally is prepared by boiling purple corn in water along with pineapple peels and pieces of quince, adding a pinch of cinnamon and a few cloves, sweetened by sugar.

In 2019 I visited the last mayor region in Peru – the Amazon rainforest. This region comprises 60% of the country, it is covered with tropical forest and mostly navigable only on rivers. I combined Amazon with the northern area, crossing the border from Ecuador in Tumbes and making stops in Máncora, Chiclayo, Kuelap, Catarata la Chinata, Tarapoto, Yurimaguas and Iquitos, before reaching Las Tres fronteras.

I passed by Máncora on my previous trips, believing that as a surf town there wouldn’t be much to do for a non- surfer. The area is known for its turquoise beaches and good waves, making it a surfing destination. It is true that the beach town mostly attracts a younger crowd with its fun ambiance, but I highly appreciated the atmosphere of a relaxed town. The Pan-American Highway serves as Máncora's main street; bars, restaurants, shops and street vendors compete in a non-aggressive way for customers, why many surf schools and rental shops have their own clientele. Colorful tuk-tuks, driftwood bars, smoothie shacks, beginner waves, opportunities for more advanced surfers, pleasant beach for swimming and absolutely fantastic sunsets, makes Máncora a nice stop in the north of Peru.

The area is well known for turtles. I was able to spot them when swimming, but the place to float above green sea turtles is in Ñuro, a short ride from Máncora. The small area you are allowed to swim in is restricted, and marked off by floats and ropes. The turtles, however, are free to come and go as they please.

Swimming with the turtles is certainly a unique experience, but it is not without controversy. The endangered green sea turtles, which can live up to 80 years, are protected from exploitation in most countries. It is also illegal to collect or harm them. There are people who would prefer to have the waters around Ñuro untouched. However, proponents of turtle-human interaction in El Ñuro argue that the practice causes people to feel a closer connection to the turtles, which results in increased concern for their conservation. Swimming with the turtles brings additional tourism revenue into the area, which helps raise the standard of living in the local communities, and helps sustain a conservation-minded population.

The Royal Tombs of Sipán Museum in Lambayeque is one of my favorite museums – worldwide. I visited this place 15 years ago for the first time and during this trip I wanted to show it to my kids. Basically, the whole museum is about a royal tomb of the Lord of Sipán, discovered in 1987. The Lord of Sipán was an ancient Mochica ruler from the 3^rd century, whose discovery proved far-reaching for world archeology as his tomb was the first royal burial site found intact in South America, belonging to a Peruvian civilization prior to the Inca Empire.

The exhibition shows the tomb in the original status as it was found after centuries. The work of archeologists and restaurateurs, who cleaned, polished, reorganized and combined the pieces back together into their original shape is exhibited in an attractive way. Around 600 objects of great historical and monetary value were recovered in the tomb of the Lord of Sipán: ceramics, carved wooden, pieces of gold, silver and precious stones, gold and turquoise earmuff.

Eight other bodies were excavated in the same vault, where the sarcophagi of monarch was found. Mochica ruler was 1.65 meters tall, approximately 30 years old and probably died in the 3^rd century. The tombs of The Priest and the Old Lord of Sipán were also found near the tomb of the Lord of Sipán.

Almost 700 meters long, the Pimentel Pier is recognized as the longest in Peru. Its construction was carried out in 1911 to facilitate the transport and trade of products. But this is not the cause why I would stop in this rather unattractive town.

There are two reasons why I visited fishing village Pimentel on the Pacific Ocean.

• The name of the village is also the last name of my girlfriend.
• Caballitos de totora - typical boats invented more than three thousand years ago with reed stems and leaves. These small and light boats fulfilled multiple functions that evolved over time, but have been mainly used as a tool for artisanal fishing, as well as a survival tool.

Considered as Cultural Patrimony of the Nation, caballitos de totora measure 3 to 4 meters in length and in width of up to one meter. When they are dry, they can weigh between 40 and 50 kg and are capable of supporting up to 200 kilos of payload. They are designed to carry one person, a fisherman who stands on board and paddles through waves out to the ocean, transport their nets and collect fish in their inner cavity.

There is a very simple rule, who can manipulate the boats. According to tradition, the fisherman who cannot load his raft should not go into the sea, since he would not be able to control it. There are more interesting facts about caballitos de totora. They are made from the same reed, the totora, used by the Uros people on Lake Titicaca. The name caballitos de totora is not the original name, as horses (caballitos) were not introduced to South America until after the Spanish conquest of the Inca Empire.

When I visited Machu Picchu in 1997, my journey through the remains of magnificent pre-Columbian civilizations in Central and South America was completed. Of course, new discoveries materialize again and again, but they are smaller and more difficult to access. Kuelap might be an exception.

The city of Kuelap was constructed between 6^th and 10^th century by Chichapoya people. The Incas added a few buildings after they conquered the territory in the 1470s. Kuelap laid forgotten by the outside world, until its re-discovery in 1843 by a local judge.

This is the largest and most important Chachapoya site, beautifully located at about 3,000 meters above sea level, on a craggy mountain-top overlooking the Utcubamba River valley, giving superb views to the surrounding mountains and valleys. A cable car was installed to take visitors to the top of the mountain, where a fortified city, one of the most impressive and significant pre-Columbian ruins in all of South America is located. Kuelap is ready to become next Machu Picchu in a tourist sense, but I believe the splendor of it cannot reach the uniqueness of The Lost City of Incas.

Kuelap is an imposing stone structure protected by an outer wall up to 20 meters high, built of large limestone blocks, situated at the top of a mountain amid a rugged landscape. The main structure is an awe-inspiring, walled stronghold, almost 600 meters long and 120 meters wide. The scene, when this urban citadel was inhabited by the estimated 3,000 inhabitants, must have been fascinating.  Inside, over 400 round buildings were found, which would have been covered with steep, conical thatched roofs.

La Chinata Waterfall is a wonderful source of water that emerges from a height of 580 meters, whose name means spring that falls from the sky. The unique geographical environment is characterized by the diversity in its flora, especially orchids, ferns and mosses. The waterfall cascades over three (some sources say five) tiers and then disappears into the jungle.

The starting point of the hike to La Chinata waterfall is the town of San Carlos. I was not very convinced that the kids would be motivated to walk 2 hours without too much complaining, but it turned out that we were soon accompanied by a street dog, who accompanied us during the whole walk entertaining the kids. The scenic route took us approximately 2 hours (one way) at a slow pace and resting at seldom points. A warm and rainy climate most of the year can completely cover the waterfalls with mist and clouds, but it was our lucky day. Mostly sunny weather enabled us to observe la Chinata from many stops on the route.

The capital of the Peruvian Amazon - Iquitos - is the largest city in the world that cannot be reached by road that isn't on an island; it is accessible only by river and air, with the exception of a road to Nauta, a small town roughly 100 km south. This fact of inaccessibility was probably the main reason why I wanted to visit Iquitos.

There were not too many options to navigate the Amazon river from Yurimaguas, the last accessible town by road. The only slow boat ready to leave down the Amazon River within the next three days had just left and I could only watch it slowly cruising in the distance of tropical forest. I missed it for 15 minutes. What remained, was the night ride with a smaller speedboat and an early start to Iquitos on a bigger, more comfortable and more expensive speedboat.

Because I didn’t want to stay in uninspiring Yurimaguas for days, the next morning at 6:00am we boarded a fast motorboat with other 40, predominantly local passengers. There was not a lot of comfort on plastic chairs, but powered by two robust engines we glided fast down the Amazon river. In between, lunch was cooked and served. We made a few stops in smaller villages along the river. In the late afternoon, we arrived in the town of Nauta, where we switched onto buses and proceeded the rest of the way by road to Iquitos.

Iquitos was established in 1757 as a Spanish Jesuit reduction on the banks of the Nanay River. In the late 19^th century, during the Amazon rubber boom, the city became the center of export of rubber production from the Amazon Basin. The plantations owners, rubber barons, were rich and built luxurious houses for themselves, which gave the city an inimitable style.

The historic center around Plaza de Armas is surrounded by European-influenced buildings dating to the beginning of 20^th century boom in rubber production. Today my most memorable remembrance of Iquitos are motorized tricycles, whizzing manically through the streets and making noise. I quickly found out that due to rainy season and lack of tourists, jungle tours were going to be too expensive and too dangers due to swarms of mosquitoes, which would be biting us all day long. Therefore, I postponed jungle excursion to Leticia in Colombia.  Iquitos itself has no real sighting opportunities, beside always colorful open-air street market Mercado de Belén and rustic stilt houses lining the Itaya River.

What can be found on Belen market? Aside from the usual stalls of everyday goods, it’s an ample display of traditional Amazon medicine, exotic food, jungle fruits, roots, herbs, and animal extracts that are said to cure all sorts of diseases. Here are my highlights:

• Suri worms are larvae of the palm weevil, a white grub that lives in trunks of the same tree that produces aguaje. Usually they are skewered, grilled, roasted and layered onto sticks, but in Iquitos they can be also boiled. Very inexpensive; three pieces for one Peruvian sol. The rubbery - crunchy, bitter, compared in taste to everything from hazelnut to butter. Suris taste as a snack that’s crispy on the outside, yet creamy on the inside. Delicious and a good source of protein.
• Aguaje is an oval-shaped fruit with curved edges, similar in shape to an egg, virtually unknown outside of the Amazon. It grows on moriche palm tree, native to the region. When purple scales are removed, they reveal a bright yellow-orange flesh that surrounds a large seed. The pulp is used most often in juices, jams, sorbets, and various desserts, besides being extremely rich in essential fatty acids and has a high vitamin A and C content. They are exhibited in very attractive – photogenic form. I tried it plain, but the taste is unknown to me; not pleasant.
• Another product sold in the Mercado de Belén that called my attention were caiman tails. While indigenous communities have permission to hunt and eat wild game, the sale of it is not allowed. Selling caimans on the market is primarily illegal, but nevertheless the business seems to be running without too much opposition.

The last Peruvian stop of this trip was the area of Tres fronteras - the border of Colombia, Brazil and Peru - tree cities from different countries border each other along the Amazon river: Tabatinga (in Brazil), Leticia (in Colombia), and Santa Rosa de Yavari (in Peru) on an island in the Amazon River. Later, I continued Amazon River navigation with a showboat to Manaus in Brazil.

Peru in combination with Bolivia is beside Mexico my number one destination in Latin America. From Amazon forest to the Ands, from backpacker’s heaven to the top hotels in luxury Miraflores. The legacy of the most advanced pre-Columbian nation in South America in the area of Cusco amazed me with the architectural wonders, famous Peruvian cuisine recognized worldwide and archeological sites such as Machu Picchu, Sacsayhuaman or Chan Chan.

One of my favorites museums in general is dedicated to the tomb of extremely powerful men in ancient Peru. Royal Tombs of Sipán Museum represents one of many fantastic archaeological discoveries in Peruvian history.

What about Peruvian cuisine? From corn to potato, pisco sour to Inca Cola, seafood or fruits. Flavors and combinations of Peruvian food have conquest the world.

There are too many reasons to return to Peru again and explore new places, flavors and people.