Paraguay

Visited: August 1997

Length: 14 days

Capital city: Asunción

Population: 4.8 million (1997)

Estimated reading time: 18 minutes

• Visiting ancient ruins of Jesuits Missions from 17^th and 18^th
• Driving on a bus around Asunción where bus drivers compete as racing in Formula 1 competition.
• Back in time on a boat from Asunción to Concepcion.
• Getting in touch with Mennonites communities in Chaco region.
• Traversing the Chaco region across the desert while riding in the back of a truck.

In many ways, one of South America’s most mysterious countries – Paraguay, was the last country on my 15-months American Big Tour which started in New York City. The trouble of conquering this last destination on my trans-American trip began long before I crossed the border from Brazil.

Usually, if the situation can turn complicated, it will definitely get embroiled with a tourist visa. At the Paraguayan consulates in La Paz and Santa Cruz in Bolivia, I was politely turned down after I was unable to deliver an Interpol Clearance Certificate.

In response to my inquiry regarding the procurement of such a document in the heart of Bolivia, situated thousands of kilometers away from my homeland of Slovenia, the Paraguayan consul merely shrugged and offered a smile. He recommended that I initially travel to Brazil and seek a visa at one of the consulates located near the Paraguayan border, which are reportedly less encumbered by bureaucracy and more generous in their visa policy.

Never mind! As often before during my journey, I changed the plans, this time due to force majeure.

At the Paraguayan consulate in Foz do Iguazu, a month later, a receptionist was not much more pleasant. Due to the annual meeting of all South American presidents in the capital Asunción, the consulate was not allowed to issue visas at that moment.

“Come back next week and bring all the possible documents, recommendations and certificates. We’ll see what can be done!” said one of the officials, testing my patience.

A new surprise awaited me next Monday. I was required to engage in a direct conversation with his excellency, the consul.

The consul couldn’t believe that I was willing to visit Paraguay as a backpacker:

“Why would somebody wanted to pay a visit to the country, get to know the way of life and drive through the legendary Chaco region to Bolivia?”

In a half-hour conversation, I managed to convince her of my good intentions, my non-criminal background, lack of connections with any terrorist organization and my origins from a perfectly normal, developed European country.

I also attached a photocopy of my diploma, some certificates of completion of foreign language courses, and hinted to her that I was particularly interested in the Indians in the Chaco area. She may not have fully comprehended all the letters in Slovene; however, I believe they contributed to get my visa. My efforts were finally recognized, and as a result, they granted my visa without any fees.

Given all problems during the process of visa application, I expected to face a number of bureaucratic inconveniences, military controls and similar checkpoints in Paraguay, but the exact opposite happened. An incredibly friendly country, enviably economically developed, considering its turbulent history. People are, like elsewhere in Latin America, friendly to random foreign visitors.

Ciudad del Este was the first city I visited in Paraguay. Directly on the border with Brazil, separated only by the river Paraná and the bridge of friendship El puente de la Amistad from Foz de Iguazu. It is a kind of shopping paradise for Brazilians and Argentines who can freely buy all gods without high taxes on black market and then smuggle them back home for small bribes to custom officials.

I struggled to get through the street stalls on both sides of the main avenue; a young boy offered me watches, sellers were calling me to buy in shops full of state-of-the-art radios, miniature CD players, and other electrical items. Bargaining is mandatory, prices are not exhibited anywhere.

The most well-known prank is a fragrant perfume or cologne with a tempting smell and suspicious origin, which later turns out to be just colored water. By the time you figure this out, it’s usually too late.

Business is mainly in the hands of Asian immigrants. Lately, they have connected well with the local mafia and these days they have been holding all the threads in their hands. The average citizens are increasingly concerned about their influence and the violent actions that stir the spirits of a peaceful city.

Ciudad del Este, on the other hand, has become Paraguay’s most developed city precisely because of illegal trade with neighboring countries.

New exclusive apartment buildings and beautiful luxury hotels with casinos are attracting more and more foreign guests, while locals are being pushed to the outskirts of the city.

Since I still had quite a bit of travel ahead of me, I couldn’t afford to load my backpack with cheap electronics. The only thing I actually wanted was an ATM or bank, where I could withdraw cash with a credit card.

It was only 3:00 PM, yet all the banks had already shut their doors. Such a paradise for spending money, but with closed banks and no ATMs in the early afternoon! Luckily, I found at least a small exchange office where I managed to exchange my last bill of 20.00 US$, which should be enough to reach Asunción.

The next day, I visited the small town of Trinidad, a half hour drive in legendary Blue Bird bus from Encarnacion. La Santísima Trinidad del Paraná was once one of the most important Jesuit cities in South America.

In the 18^th century, European missionaries created a state within the country, teaching the Guarani Indians Spanish language, imparting religious beliefs, and providing agricultural skills and trading knowledge. They also developed a monopoly over various activities, ultimately to oversee Spanish economic interests in the region.

Within 150 years, 30 missions grew into small cities protecting the indigenous tribes from the exploitation of negative European influences. At its peak, in the first quarter of the 18^th century, Trinidad was home to 4,000 people, who were really taking care of this beautiful city around a central church for massive events.

In 1767, the Spanish government banned Jesuit missions, missionaries moved elsewhere, and all Jesuit cities, including Trinidad, collapsed. For a long time, the ruins were abandoned, new villages were raised around them and only recently some of the archeological places were rebuilt and beautifully restored for random visitors.

While other Latin American countries may be known for their ancient pre-Columbian ruins, Jesuit Missions of the Guaranís are one of Paraguay’s biggest tourist attractions, also listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

Remarkably, I was the only individual present during that particularly warm afternoon. The entrance fee was 2,000 guarani. I possessed no change, nor did the security guard clad in full military attire.

Ultimately, we reached an agreement whereby I would provide him with all the change I had, which amounted to approximately one thousand guarani. Of course, he wasn’t too upset, as the entrance fee ended up in his pocket anyway; an unofficial supplement to the basic state salary is invariably appreciated.

Paraguay surprised me with its population structure and economic development. Despite the fact that, according to official data, the majority of the population are mestizos, a significant presence of white descendants of European immigrants can be observed in major urban areas. During the initial decades of the 20^th century, their parents departed from their native lands for either political or economic reasons, embarking steamboats into the unknown territories of the American continent.

They initially settled down in Argentina, but when borders started to close or there were less job opportunities, Paraguay opened its doors. In addition to Europeans, many immigrants from Asian countries and members of the defeated German army, who were persecuted elsewhere in the world, found their new homeland here.

Thus, a picturesque mixture of people, languages ​​and cultures was created. In the meantime, the number of original inhabitants, Guarani and Guaycuru Indians, has been reduced to a minimum.

The consequence of all these immigrants, eager to prove themselves in their new homeland, has certainly helped Paraguay to progress into one of the more developed countries in Latin America. Paved roads, modern cars, nicer houses and higher prices than in Peru or Bolivia are a proof of economic development.

In contrast to Argentina and Chile, Paraguay remains relatively underdeveloped; however, the current circumstances may soon change for the better. The conclusion of General Stroessner‘s thirty-five-year dictatorship in 1989 ushered in a wave of freedom, political democracy, and new prospects, significantly altering the landscape of international trade and foreign investment in the country.

The most renowned landmark in Paraguay, aside from the lengthy dictatorship of General Stroessner lasting over thirty years, is the Itaipu Dam, which is recognized as the largest hydroelectric power station in the world. This facility is situated on the Itaipu River, along the border with Brazil. The megalomaniac project almost brought both countries to bankruptcy, as 20 billion US$ investment was much more than their public finances could deal with.

In addition, they had to build an artificial accumulation lake, which completely changed the entire ecosystem of the surrounding rainforest. The largest hydroelectric plant in the world, opened in 1984, is really enormous. In a well-organized information center, I first looked at how it was built, using the most modern building methods, setting many world records and showing the world that Latinos can also do big things.

The benefits of construction were mutual:

Paraguay provided employment to 32,000 workers throughout the construction phase, on the other hand, while Brazil meets a significant portion of its energy requirements (25%) through electricity generated by the power plant.

During our visit to the power plant, we passed by enormous turbines measuring 10 meters in diameter, through which water from the reservoir flows. The Itaipu Dam ranks among the largest in the world, extending 8 kilometers in length and standing just below 200 meters in height.

The capital of Paraguay, Asunción, located on the river of the same name, awaited me with an unbearable heat of 35°C. One of the most ancient cities in South America is situated at an average altitude of merely 43 meters above sea level.

I soon found one of the cheapest guesthouses in town for 6.00 US$. Despite the fact that Spanish did not cause me any problems, I had a hard time talking to the Korean hotel owner. The absence of luxury in the guesthouse was offset by a magnificent view of the Presidential Palace, located merely 100 meters away on one side, while the other side overlooked the slums, an integral aspect of large Latin American cities.

Palacio de Gobierno was once one of the most guarded buildings in America; perhaps even in the world. Any walking or movement in the immediate vicinity was prohibited.

Security guards were instructed to shot on the spot anyone who watched, photographed or anyhow lingered around it.

The waves of democracy have recently turned the situation upside down. On the sidewalk in front of the beautifully restored White Palace numerous vendors sell cheap oranges and mandarins, while young lovers embrace in the park nearby.

I would describe Asunción as a rather peculiar city. Many travelers warned me about some unreasonable situations that I soon discovered myself as well. In the city center you could count less restaurants than fingers of one hand, while there is an infinite number of small grocery stores and optic shops. I listed more than fifty optic shops within a few blocks. As if all Paraguayans were short-sighted.

Around seven o’clock in the evening, the streets are completely empty, shops are closed, buses almost stop operating. Only old prostitutes, dressed in provocative miniskirts, keep the company to homeless and infrequent pedestrians.

I stayed in Asunción for only four days, before traveling north to the city of Concepción via a cargo ship along the Paraguay River. Asunción is also known as Madre de Ciudades – mother of cities. The reason for this is that Asunción was the starting point of many expeditions and city formations in the 16^th and 17^th centuries.

My 30-hour boat expedition took me back to the 19^th century. We traveled slowly up the stream and stop every half hour to pick-up or disembark farmers from the small wooden huts without electricity on the shore. Our ferry actually never stopped. It just slowed down when passengers with goods were approaching on motorized canoes that tied on the side of our ferry for a few minutes.

12-year-old Jorge approached me and we started an interesting conversation. He was travelling to his uncle’s hacienda, where he would help working on the field, taking care of horses and cows. About half of the entire population in Paraguay makes living of farming and agriculture. He had already earned a cow and a horse with his previous work, so he does not have too much time to attend school.

He will probably grow-up, as many Latin Americans, without proper education and limited chances to get a decent job or opportunities to form part of non-existing medium class.

The food was tasteless and the menu extremely limited: rice, meat and fruits. I climbed to the roof to admire the gorgeous sunset, jumped into my sleeping bag and late into the night observed stars on the clear sky.

When I woke up the next morning, a view to a red sky with stunning sunrise opened in front of my eyes. I asked the captain about our arrival and found out that we would reach Concepcion six hours later than the original plan; at 4:30pm. I had some jam left, my Danish buddy added bread and we survived until lunch, which was much more inspired then the day before: pasta, potato, yucca and salad.

The majority of passengers was disembarking in small villages, where people survive on cattle breeding without much luxury. I talked to Juan, father of 8 kids. They will be navigating for another 4 days with different boats to reach their home. One of his kids explained me that none of his parents work. They own a cow, while one of the sons, who lives in Asunción helps them with money to survive the month.

Most of Paraguay population has settled down in a small area within 150 kilometers around Asunción. It is also the most fertile landscape suitable for agriculture, while the remaining 60% of land is represented by the Chaco desert landscape, where only 4% of total population lives.

The mysterious landscape of western Paraguay, called Chaco, was almost completely uninhabited until the beginning of this century. The only inhabitants were smaller Indian tribes who were cruelly fighting against harsh nature. In the 1920s, the Paraguayan government allocated a portion of this land to Mennonite community for a minimal amount of money.

Mennonites originate from Germany, and their most intriguing guidelines, besides religious are: living in a closed circle (marriage is only allowed between themselves) and speaking of Low German language (Plattdeutsch) independent of their location.

They are also known for their diligence, good education and ability to survive in the most extreme environments. Despite living in a less fertile area, they manage to produce enough food to survive and focus on cattle farming by efficient irrigation system. They have preserved their traditional customs to these days, so in the middle of Spanish-speaking Paraguay we can find many settlements with German names, such as Fernheim, Neuland, Neu-Halbstadt, etc.

Upon their arrival, they were isolated from the rest of the population, but indigenous people soon realized that they could coexist and benefit from each other. They started to work for Mennonites and thus escaped from previous misery. In addition to Spanish, the Indians learned to speak German and the Mennonites learned Spanish.

The major disparities between them, naturally, continue to exist. Most white Mennonites are quite wealthy, well-groomed and educated, while Indians live more rudimentary in slums without running water, sewage system or electricity, usually with many children. I was repeatedly captivated by the relatively harmonious coexistence of two distinctly different cultural and ethnic groups.

It was amusing, when I walked into a store or restaurant. As a white man, of course, everyone considered me a Mennonite and addressed me in German, a kind of semi-official language in Chaco province. My German is in general not that bad, but Plattdeutsch was very difficult to understand.

Indians of the Chaco region are one of the poorest ethnic groups in Paraguay, existing on the periphery of the nation’s economic framework. While observing their lifestyle and values, I came to the conclusion that one of the most important material objects in their lifestyle was a large radio cassette player.

They carry these huge and heavy electronic devices all the time on their shoulders and never separate from them. Sometimes, it appears that they are engaged in a competition to determine who can carry a larger radio or play it at a higher volume.

Talking about portable radios, I was even more surprised when one of the local poor guys sat down next to me and pulled out of his pocket exactly the same radio as I was transporting in my backpack.

The incredible coincidence is that I had bought my portable radio in Slovenia 14 months before and he probably got in a local store in Chaco.

We both listened to the same radio station, since there are only two available in Chaco region.

Loma Plata is the last accessible place on paved road in Chaco region. From there on, travelling is only for the real adventurers. At first, the road is as solid as a regular dirt road, but it later turns into desert sand path. In the dry season, travelling is still possible, while in the rainy season, there is so much mud that even trucks can be stuck for days.

Despite the fact that buses have also started to cover the distance between Asunción and Santa Cruz in Bolivia in recent years, it is much more adventurous to travel this part in a truck. I had to wait quite a few days before I got a lift in one that was directed to Bolivia. Three drivers took turns behind the wheel, so we didn’t waste much time stopping, nor sleeping.

I settled comfortably in the back of the trailer, where I made myself some sort of improvised bed among cargo. In fact, the ride was rather comfortable, which was also due to the special care of friendly and funny Bolivian drivers.

The temperature reached 40°C during the day, causing desert sand to irritate my eyes and transforming my white t-shirt to chocolate color. We had everything we needed to survive with us, as there are no settlements in the western expanses of Chaco region.

The only exceptions are two military checkpoints; one on the Paraguayan side and the other one in Bolivia. If we passed quickly through the Paraguayan checkpoint, I experienced a typical Latin American reception with the officials on the Bolivian side. I had to pay special fees to register in the official diary – an old school notebook, where no name had been written for weeks, maybe even months.

After two days of driving we reached the first settlement in Bolivia – the town of Villamontes. Throughout the extended journey, which included pauses for meals and restroom breaks, we covered a distance of merely 250 kilometers.

“This ride ended quite well!”, I thought quietly, as the drivers told me how their truck had broken down once, and they had to wait three days before the first vehicle passed by. They had already stayed without food and water by then. They survived drinking water from the truck’s coolant system. They learned a lesson from survival experience to prepare properly and stock up with enough supplies for a week whenever crossing the desert from Paraguay to Bolivia.

Romantic escapades are also a vital component of these business trips. Two of the drivers had quite a few permanent mistresses and illegitimate children along the way. When I asked them what their wives in Bolivia were saying about this family situation, they answered in a typical macho style, so common in South America:

“Women need to be at home, take care of children, cook, do the dishes and above all be quiet when the man is at home. If they don’t like something, they can leave my house anytime!”

Incredibly difficult to enter due to strict visa requirements, at the end, Paraguay turned out to be a pleasant, easy going country with a unique countryside and specific ethnic groups. A rather unknown, but fast developing nation with a rich history, the world’s largest hydroelectric power plant, ruins of Jesuit monasteries and shopping city of Ciudad del Este, impressed me most with desolate Chaco region.

Turning away from authoritarian rule that lasted for over three decades and converting to a young democracy, Paraguay has a better future in front of it.

However, as a tourist destination the competition in the region is fierce and the country will not be on the bucket list of many travelers.