Slovenia

Visited: my home country

Duration of visit: all my life, less 18 years that I spent abroad

Capital city: Ljubljana

Population: 2 million (2024)

Estimated reading time: 14 minutes

• The charming Old Town of the capital and economical center of Slovenia – Ljubljana – where I studied at university and lived for various years.
• Logar Valley – admiring pristine green nature, cycling and hiking up to the Rinka waterfalls.
• Postojna Cave – a magical underground world, where stalactites and stalagmites have created a wonderland.
• Coastal area with historical Piran and opulent Portorož.
• Swimming to the island on Lake Bled and admiring Bled Castle perched on a cliff above the lake.
• Enjoying outdoor sports activity: cycling, skiing, rafting, canyoning and mountaineering.

Slovenia is the only country in the world that contains the word LOVE. This would be the easiest description of the feeling for my home country, where I was born, I grew up, studied and lived, when not travelling or living abroad.

Slovenia serves as my sanctuary, providing a tranquil escape where I can cherish moments with family and friends, participate in cultural and sporting activities, climb mountains, swim in its waters, indulge in exquisite cuisine, and discover the prominent landmarks that increasingly draw tourists to this country on the Sunny side of the Alps, as promoted in the media.

Being such a tiny country, spreading on only 20,271 km², surrounded by some of the most popular tourist destinations in Europe, such as Austria, Italy, Hungary or Croatia, Slovenia found its way to distinguish itself by offering a unique mix of unspoiled nature, green approach, unique culture and food.

Historically divided among the tentacles of old Yugoslavia and Western liberalism, it struggled until 1991, when it finally became an independent country.

Since then, the similarity in name with Slovakia and lack of international attention due to its peaceful transformation and smooth transition have not put it on the worldwide map. However, the country receives more than six million tourists each year, indicating a significant progression in its appeal as a travel destination.

According to the charismatic major of Ljubljana, it is the most beautiful city in the world. If true, the small capital of Slovenia, with 350.000 inhabitants would have been a hot spot. The charming Old Town situated along the Ljubljanica River, marked with works of architect Joze Plečnik and overlooked by the Ljubljana Castle, serves as an appealing destination, particularly for independent travelers.

It is big enough to provide all necessities, yet compact enough for traversing by bicycle or on foot, and interesting enough to explore it for a couple of days.

Ljubljana Castle has been standing on a hill overlooking the city for approximately 900 years. Throughout its long history, the castle has played significant roles and has become an emblem of the city.

The Outlook Tower and the surrounding ramparts provide stunning vistas of the capital city, while the castle also features a museum exhibition dedicated to Slovenian history. This exhibition transports visitors back roughly 200,000 years, showcasing the earliest evidence of human habitation in what is now Slovenia.

Every summer, the Old Town is flocked by foreign visitors, who enjoy strolling around, navigating the river or drinking in local bars. A significant number of local residents choose to change the urban environment for the beach, whereas university students from other parts of the country return to their hometowns during the holiday season.

The Prešernov trg, a square situated at the center of historic Ljubljana, has evolved from a medieval junction that served as the former entrance to the fortified city. This square feature three of Ljubljana’s most iconic landmarks: the pink façade of the Franciscan Church, the monument dedicated to the poet France Prešeren, and the Triple Bridge designed by Jože Plečnik.

Upon crossing the Triple Bridge, one soon arrives at the Central Market, also a creation of Plečnik. Adjacent to the market stands the famous Dragon Bridge, which symbolizes Ljubljana with its iconic dragon.

Since the 12^th century, Mestni trg has been a focal point of the medieval city. Over time, the original medieval structures were supplanted by Baroque palaces, including the Town Hall, which is accompanied by the famous Fountain. The impressive National and University Library (NUK) is regarded as Plečnik’s finest work.

Kongresni trg serves as the central square of Ljubljana, where significant historical events, such as the Congress of the Holy Alliance in 1821, took place. The modern Trg republike represents the symbolic heart of Slovenia’s statehood, surrounded by the Slovenian parliament building and the Cankarjev Dom congress and concert hall located behind it.

When living in Ljubljana in various stages of my life I mostly walked or used a bicycle to move in the downtown. Public transport is a useful form of transport in the metropolitan area, as vehicles have more constrained access to the downtown.

In Slovenia, gastronomy plays a vital role, and each year, more fine dining restaurants adopt the slow food movement. These restaurants not only utilize rare ingredients and alternative cooking techniques but also prioritize the local, seasonal, organic and aesthetic appeal of their dishes.

Overall, the standard of food and hygiene in most restaurants is high. Additionally, prices are more affordable compared to those in Western Europe.

A particularly advantageous option is the set lunch meal, which typically offers a variety of choices, including at least one vegetarian option.

Some of the most esteemed local specialties, which I recommend to taste while in Slovenia, are:

• Štruklji – rolled dumplings, can be sweet or salty, served as side dish or delicious desert.
• Žganci – spoonbread prepared with buckwheat flour and optionally dressed with cracklings.
• Kranj sausage – made of pork and served with sauerkraut.
• Idrijski žlikrofi – stuffed dumplings from the town Idrija, filled with potatoes, onions, spices and sometimes meat.
• Jota – a stew made of potatoes, sauerkraut, whole beans an optionally dry pork pieces are added.

Although beer is the most commonly consumed beverage, the region’s high-quality wines and diverse selection of fruit-based spirits deserve to be savored.

I have a particular fondness for certain traditional desserts whenever the chance presents. My favorites are:

• Potica, a rolled pastry made of leavened paper-thin dough usually filled with walnut filling.
• Gibanica, a cake with layers of poppy seeds, apple filling, cottage cheese filling, walnut filling, and an optional topping such as sour cream.

A visit to Lake Bled is not complete without experiencing the delightful Bled Cream Cake. This exquisite dessert features a golden, crispy crust created from butter dough, filled with a delectable vanilla custard. It is topped with whipped cream, an additional layer of crispy butter dough, and a fine coating of icing sugar.

The Karst region has established an optimal setting for the underground world. Over the course of millions of years, rivers have sculpted numerous caves by eroding porous rocks and limestone, leading to the creation of a unique landscape filled with stalagmites, stalactites, and towers, particularly exemplified in Postojna Cave.

A passenger train inside the cave offers visitors an impressive five-minute journey through the expansive halls, tunnels, and narrow corridors of these ancient caves, which are approximately two million years old.

From there, a walking tour, guided in multiple languages, allows participants to explore various cave structures and their vibrant colors along a well-defined path, revealing the extraordinary stalactites, stalagmites, and other geological formations that make up the 21-kilometer-long cave system.

Highlights of the cave are formations as the so-called Brilliant stalagmite, the spaghettis and the curtains. Also, the olm, a lizard endemic to the Karst cave system, which has elongated body, semi translucent skin and no eyes.

I have had the opportunity to visit Postojna Cave multiple times: during my primary school years, alongside international guests, and with my family and I always enjoy it, finding new points of interests inside the cave.

While Slovenia boasts several notable landmarks, I believe that Postojna Cave stands out as the most distinctive feature and must-see attraction in the country.

Although there are other caves that visitors can explore, including Škocjanske jame, Jama Vilenica, Križna Jama, and Snežna jama, none are as renowned or visually appealing as Postojna Cave.

Covering an area of 1.45 square kilometers and reaching depths of up to 30 meters, Lake Bled is home to 19 distinct fish species. Its beauty is particularly enchanting during autumn, when the foliage transforms into a palette of yellows and browns, complemented by a blanket of white snow in the surrounding landscape.

Set against the imposing backdrop of the Karawanks mountains, the image of Alpine Lake Bled serves as the most iconic representation of Slovenia.

At the heart of the lake lies the Church of Mary the Queen, situated on a small island. According to legend, those who ring the church bell while making a wish will see their desires fulfilled, with the stipulation that only one wish may be made.

The most popular way to transport tourists around the lake is the Pletna boat, a flat-bottomed vessel inspired by the Venetian gondola. It features a pointed bow and a widened stern for easy passenger access. Measuring 7 meters in length, it accommodates up to 18 individuals and is navigated using a unique technique, where the oarsman stands and rows with two oars.

Motorboats are prohibited on the lake, which contributes to a delightful swimming experience. In the summer, I enjoyed swimming multiple times along the lake’s shore and ventured several times to the island that hosts the church. The warm, clear water, the lack of motorized vessels, and the tranquil surface consistently captivate me. While there are group pletna boats that travel to the island, I generally rent an individual boat.

Slightly less popular, colder and bigger, but probably more pristine is Lake Bohinj, spanning an area of 318 hectares. The lake is situated within a basin formed by glacial activity and is recognized as the largest permanent lake in Slovenia. During the warmer months, the surface temperature of the lake can reach up to 24°C, while it frequently freezes during the winter season.

In the summer, Lake Bohinj offers excellent opportunities for swimming, and it remains suitable for various water activities throughout the colder months, including boating, surfing, kayaking, canoeing, and fishing.

Lake Bohinj region is renowned for its home-made, genuine Slovenian cuisine, expansive cow pastures, and exquisite dairy offerings. During the winter months, it also functions as a gateway for skiing in the nearby mountains.

The village of Studor, not far from Lake Bohinj, is renowned for Slovenian kozolec, which are wooden, freestanding vertical drying racks with side openings, traditionally utilized for drying grain and grass.

Kozolec represents one of the most distinctive features of Slovenia’s cultural heritage, found in rural and suburban settings. Approximately 80% of all hayracks globally are located in Slovenia, with the remainder situated in Italy, Austria and Croatia.

Historically, the kozolec was a vital component of farm life, typically positioned near the home or between meadows and fields. There are both, single and double variations of these hayracks.

The coastline of Slovenia stretches only 47 kilometers over Adriatic connecting with Italy and Croatia. Although it does not compare to the picturesque coastlines of its neighboring nations, every kilometer is purposefully utilized, exploiting its full potential.

Portorož stands out as a resort town, boasting beaches, bars, restaurants, luxury accommodations, and casinos. The central beach, features a broad promenade with wooden piers, where visitors can rent chairs and umbrellas at elevated prices. One can relax at wellness centers by the sea, soak in positive energy, savor the acclaimed culinary delights available, and finish the day by witnessing the serene sunset from one of the numerous piers.

The historic harbor town of Piran, situated on a narrow peninsula, is distinguished by its extensive pier and notable Venetian architecture. The legacy of nearly five centuries of Venetian governance has profoundly shaped the town, fostering a lasting connection with Italy that persists today.

The town is the birthplace of Giuseppe Tartini, a celebrated composer and violinist, whose influence is evident throughout his hometown. Tartini Square is bordered by the Gothic red Venetian House and the beautifully frescoed Tartini House. His statue can be found in the main square, near the location of his birth.

The primary activities in Piran include exploring picturesque alleyways, strolling through vibrant plazas, unwinding in wine bars, savoring the local seafood dishes, and tasting delicious ice cream.

A significant aspect of the Slovenian coast is its proximity to the capital, coupled with the notable difference in weather conditions compared to Ljubljana. While the mainland may experience cold winters or foggy, rainy days, the coastal region can enjoy temperatures that are up to 7 degrees higher, often accompanied by sunshine. Consequently, a day trip to the coast is highly recommended for those enduring lengthy winters in the capital.

Logar Valley (Logarska dolina) is among my preferred destinations in Slovenia, recognized as one of the most exquisite alpine glacial valleys across Europe, extending into the Kamnik-Savinja Alps from the north. The valley is surrounded by a stunning array of peaks that rise over 2,000 meters.

The influence of farming throughout the centuries has contributed to the cultural landscape of the region. Spanning 7 kilometers, this valley is protected as a landscape park, home to numerous natural attractions, including the Rinka Waterfall, which is among the highest and most beautiful waterfalls in Slovenia.

I have frequently visited the Logar Valley by bicycle, undertaking a 65-kilometer journey from my home along the Savinja River to the point where the river is born, situated above the Rinka Waterfall.

The route features a gentle incline, passing through charming villages and a picturesque forest landscape, steadily ascending. With each passing kilometer, the number of vehicles diminishes and the road narrows. Upon entering the landscape park, I am rewarded with a stunning vista of the valley.

The remainder of the ride is a joy, delightful experience, observing the majestic mountains that rise over 2,000 meters above sea level. A brief walk to the Rinka Waterfall, where water plunges 78 meters down a vertical face, allows me to stretch my legs, before cycling back.

Prior to returning back home, I consistently savor a selection of traditional Slovenian delicacies, including mushroom soup with buckwheat groats, and for dessert, I enjoy either potica or blueberry strudel.

The reputation of Slovenians as hard-working, modest and honest people is complemented by their passion for sports. Many Slovenians are drawn to the mountains, where the popularity of hiking and mountaineering is supported by an impressive network of over 10,000 kilometers of well-maintained trails.

The breathtaking scenery and the friendly ambiance enhance the experience. Furthermore, the accessibility of these trails from urban areas, the well-established network of mountain lodges and guesthouses, along with the presence of traditional homemade food in even the most secluded mountains, play a crucial role in the widespread enjoyment of mountaineering.

Many other sports are popular to train, practice as recreation or follow on television: basketball, cycling, volleyball, handball, skiing, football and more.

I often wonder what are the reasons behind the impressive number of top athletes from Slovenia, who excel in competitions and earn medals, particularly when considering the size of the population.

Slovenian sportsmen have attained global recognition in individual, team, and extreme sports at major sporting events. I attribute this phenomenon to the foundational role of sports education in schools, which is further enhanced by the extensive range of sports activities available for practice and training across the country.

Regardless of where one resides, there are ample opportunities to engage in nearly any sport. School gyms are used by kids in the morning, while serving as public venues for training and recreational activities during the afternoons and on weekends.

One of the primary advantages of living in Slovenia is the decentralization that characterizes the country at all levels. Children are afforded a quality education, and numerous government services and employment opportunities are accessible throughout the country. Consequently, it is feasible to reside in rural areas while enjoying a high quality of life.

The beneficial social elements inherited from the socialist system, particularly in public health and education, continue to operate quite effectively. A broad network of public schools ensures a comparable standard of education nationwide, while the healthcare system is largely free for Slovenian citizens.

Despite the increasing calls for privatization and the recent rise in waiting times, there is hope that the social principles, which are well-established in Scandinavian nations, will continue to prevail also in Slovenia.

Slovenia has transformed from the most developed republic of ex-Yugoslavia to a prosperous Central European country, offering a good quality of life and comfort as a result of fast growth, inclusion in European Union and NATO. On the crossroads of main transport routes between East and West it still has to use all of its potential to avoid being a transit country for thousands of trucks loaded with goods travelling east or west through Europe, illegal migrants aiming to Western countries, or tourists crossing to the Croatian coast or Italian Venice.

Rather unknown due to lack of big problems, it is being recognized as the land of successful sportsmen. On the transition from socialist to capitalist system some benefits have still been accessible to all the population: good public education, health service and social help.

Slovenia will stay my home forever, even if I keep travelling or temporarily living abroad.