Montenegro

My Montenegro travel summary:

Visited: May 2010

Duration of visit: 5 days

Capital city: Podgorica

Population: 620,000 (2010)

Montenegro travel blog reading time: 5 minutes

• Impressive landscapes surrounding Kotor’s Old Town.
• Podgorica – the capital, known as one of Europe’s sunniest cities.
• Easy-going people, known for being very relaxed and working only as much as needed.
• People smoke on every step – one of the highest tobacco-usage rates in Europe.
• Beautiful beaches and a calm sea with no waves on the horizon.

Montenegro, one of the newest sovereign states in the world, declared independence from Serbia in 2006. Named after Mount Lovčen – Black Mountain, it is a tinny country with just over half a million citizens. Montenegro boasts 52 kilometers of coastline, which represents its main tourist attraction.

Even though Montenegro is not a member of the European Union, euros are used as de-facto currency.

Montenegrins are some of the tallest people in the world, ranking second to the Dutch by only a fraction. They are also known for being a lazy nation, finding any excuse to avoid working or adjust the rhythm to their wishes.

I visited Montenegro in 2010 as part of my Kosovo – Montenegro – Albania trip.

I arrived in mid-May, expecting warm summer temperatures and pleasant swimming conditions before the June tourist season. Instead, cold, cloudy, and rainy weather persisted. A night I had to bundle up under every blanket available in the unheated, rundown guesthouses where I stayed.

I always disliked travelling overnight by bus, but finishing a trip at 4:00am and waiting for the connection is even worse.  The bus driver dropped me near the station in the port of Bar and told me the next connection to Kotor would leave an hour later.

I was waiting in a popular bar, where early birds started gathering. First cigarette and coffee with viljamovka (pear liqueur) are part of local culture, but I didn’t expect it so early in the morning.

A pleasant chat with locals proved that my knowledge of Serbian language is still at a decent level and helped me to forget about tiredness. Our bus arrived at 7:00am and took me to Kotor.

I arrived in a secluded part of the Bay of Kotor early, which turned out to be an advantage. After having burek with natural yogurt and coffee for breakfast, I arranged with the cafeteria owner to store my luggage under the counter. I then began exploring the attractions and landmarks of the town, which is listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Once populated by the Illyrians, Kotor has been fortified since the early Middle Ages. Constant occupation tendencies from various conquerors marked the history of Kotor: Ostrogoths, Bulgarian Empire, Serbian dynasties, Kingdom of Hungary, until it finally became part of Venetian Republic.

I explored the key places to visit s around the Old Town, which is compact and easy to walk. The great part of the architecture is in the Venetian style. The highlight is Kotor Cathedral, consecrated in 1166, damaged a few times and reconstructed.

Above the Old Town, on the steep slope to the east, the path leaded me to Kotor Walls. The fortifications have been expanded and modified by various empires that have controlled the city. The biggest impact was left by Venetians.

As I was climbing higher, the incredible views across the town and the bay were getting better.

After 1,350 steps, I reached Kotor Fortress, 280 meters above the town. A fantastic panoramic view over the Bay of Kotor opened before my eyes.

While portions of walls still stand, the roofs of its structures more or less crumbled during various earthquakes in the region.

If you like sunny weather, Montenegro capital is the place to visit. Podgorica is supposedly one of Europe’s sunniest capitals with 2,480 hours of sunshine a year. It is north of Lake Skadar and close to coastal destinations on the Adriatic Sea, strategically located at the confluence of Ribnica and Morača River.

I can confirm that Podgorica is among Europe’s most uninteresting capitals; the good weather is the highlight.

As I walked around Podgorica, I discovered that the city’s notable places to visit and things to do are limited. However, I found some interesting stops, from socialist-era relics to vibrant street art, the old Clock Tower, the Cathedral, and the Millennium Bridge.

Cetinje, the former royal capital of Montenegro from 1878 to 1946, is a small town in the midst of the scenic Mount Lovčen. A historic and cultural center of Montenegro, with a small population of only 12,000 people, is located at 670 meters above sea level. The attitude makes it very pleasant in the summer heat, still maintaining a great view to the coastline.

I traveled to Cetinje on a day trip to experience its laid-back vibe, and discover its key attractions and landmarks. Considering its size, Cetinje hosts a rather large number of museums and government institutions. I ended the day with a delicious local ice cream.

Beside hosting the official residence of the President of Montenegro, Cetinje is also the seat of the Ministry of Culture and Media, the National Library and the State Archives.

My last stop, before continuing to Albania, was Ulcinj.

I found the southern coastal town, with its predominantly Albanian population, quiet and empty in the pre-season. Still, it was ready for the mainly Albanian visitors who later fill its 10-kilometer soft-sand beach.

Ulcinj felt much cheaper than trendier Budva or historic Kotor. Its gorgeous bay, long beach, calm sea, and water activities probably make it Montenegro’s best seaside destination.

Montenegro is a small country that has grown to a popular tourist destination in the last years.

Wealthy Russians, restricted from entering many European countries, have bought exclusive coastal properties. Various celebrities come here seeking the peace they can’t find in nearby Croatia.

For backpackers, Montenegro is probably one of the least popular destinations in the region.

My Montenegro travel experience didn’t feel particularly exciting to me compared to the far more scenic options in the region. I left with mixed impressions and limited interest in the local culture, history or art.