Latvia

My Latvia travel summary:

Visited: August 2016

Duration of visit: 4 days

Capital city: Riga

Population: 1.9 million (2016)

Latvia travel blog reading time: 7 minutes

• Admiring various architecture styles from Gothic cathedrals to world-class Art Nouveau in Riga.
• Norwegian chain of convenience stores Narvesen on every corner in Riga.
• Rundale Palace Museum – Baltic Versailles, Baroque and Rococo masterpiece, surrounded by perfectly maintained green areas.
• Cēsis Medieval Castle – one of the most mysterious monuments of pre-crusader times, surrounded by beautiful gardens.
• Salaspils Memorial Complex – raised on the spot where an extended prison and labor correctional camp operated during WW2.

Latvia, with its charming capital Riga and several historical palaces and castles, is an easy-going and accessible destination. I visited the country in 2016, together with Lithuania and Estonia. Perhaps the least attractive and known of three Baltic countries, Latvia caught my attention mostly with Riga and Rundale Palace. Exploring Riga became the highlight of my Latvia travel experience, especially its Art Nouveau districts and historic Old Town.

The most memorable moment for the promotion of Latvia in the international media happened on 23^rd August 1989.

One of the most peaceful political demonstrations united around two million Estonians, Latvians, and Lithuanians. Together, they formed a 675-kilometers long human chain (the Baltic Way), demanding independence from the Soviet Union as part of the Singing Revolution.

It is probably the most remarkable congregation of human beings for a common, peaceful cause.

At that time, around eight million people lived in those territories. The fact that two million people peacefully joined hands for 15 minutes at 19:00 makes it an even more remarkable achievement.

Like many European capitals, Riga offers many places to visit, from Gothic cathedrals to lively cafés and bars. Its landmarks include architectural gems such as the House of Blackheads, charming cobblestone streets, and vibrant squares. Museums, diverse restaurants, and a beautiful historic old town complete the experience.

The most outstanding feature of Riga is the largest array of art nouveau architecture in Europe.

Goddesses, small statues, and many decorations adorn more than 750 buildings across the city. The highlight is Alberta iela, an open-air gallery of Art Nouveau buildings designed by Mikhail Eisenstein. Between 1901 and 1906, this famous Russian architect designed many atypical, decorative buildings of Riga that still stand well preserved.

The buildings feature sculptures, balconies, columns, and other elements typical of this style. They also include decorative details of romantic nationalism common in Northern Europe at the time. Detailed ornaments and an asymmetric design take inspiration from nature in making the lines of the facades.

Eight buildings are now recognized as architectural monuments of national significance.

What struck me most about Art Nouveau were the ornaments, especially those inspired by human faces.

Whenever I wanted to buy something in downtown Riga, I walked into one of the Narvesen stores. This Norwegian chain of newsagents and convenience stores is located on almost every corner in the capital city. I had not seen such a concentration of identical brand stores offering the same products since Honolulu or Oslo.

It appears that the strategy of placing stores in such close proximity to one another is primarily focused on reducing competition rather than addressing the actual needs of customers.

I bought a cold can of kvass and ice cream. Kvass is a fermented cereal-based low alcoholic beverage, whose main ingredients are bread, flour, yeast and water. It is popular in Russia, Ukraine, Belarus, Poland, and the Baltic states, where street vendors are common in cities.

In general, Latvian prices are accessible, much lower than in Western Europe, suitable for the local standard of living. Staying in hotels, eating in restaurants and car rental do not affect my budget too much.

My favorite building in Riga’s Old Town was the House of the Black Heads. It features various architectural styles and artistic trends hidden behind the opulent façade. The Latvian capital’s most magnificent building preserves the heritage of the Blackheads Brotherhood and the history of Riga.

The lively Blackheads and young unmarried merchants, organized celebrations and cultural events, turning the building into a key cultural center.

Unveiled in 1935, the 42-meter-tall Freedom Monument of granite and copper has been Riga’s central landmark for decades. A beautiful woman holding three stars symbolizes the unity of Latvia’s regions and the struggle for national independence.

During the Soviet occupation, any gathering at the Freedom Monument was strictly forbidden. After independence in the 1990s, people started to gather here to honor statehood, the War of Independence, occupation, and repression.

Maybe the most controversial memorial in Riga is the Latvian Riflemen Monument. Originally, the red granite monument honored a battalion that defended the Baltic territories against German forces during World War I. Some of the riflemen later became Lenin’s personal bodyguards.

Many view the monument as a symbol of the old communist system, while others believe it’s a tribute to the Latvians who fought in the early years of WWI.

I think it is a wonderful piece of art that honor the locals who fought in the WWI. From my perspective the minimalist display of three severe soldiers, expressed in simple lines, is photogenic and attractive. The monument is one of my favorite attractions in Riga.

Built in the 18^th century for the Dukes of Courland, Rundāle Palace is a Baroque and Rococo masterpiece. It is surrounded by elegant French Garden, Rose Garden and green amphitheater. The palace was designed and built by Italian architect Franchesco Bartolomeo Rastrelli, the best architect of the Russian Empire at that time.

Several impressive rooms showcase an array of 18^th century furniture, interior accessories, and artistic works.

In the beginning of the 20^th century the palace was adapted and used as a school until 1978. Under the supervision of the Ministry of Education, the luxury dining room was transformed into the school’s gymnasium.

Following three decades of restoration, Rundāle Palace reopened to visitors in spring 2015. It also hosts notable guests, including foreign leaders during official visits.

After exploring the interiors, I found the large rosarium with its authentic garden layout and quiet pathways. With its beautiful Baroque-style park, the palace complex kept me entertained for nearly two hours. Visiting Rundāle Palace marked a quieter, more reflective moment of my Latvia travel adventure.

I find it impressive that the palace regained its original splendor after nearly a century of misuse, alterations, and neglect. Today, it stands as an outstanding place to visit for anyone exploring Latvia’s cultural heritage.

Every time I visit monuments commemorating atrocities of the Second World War, I get a terrible affection. Even more so in the case of concentration camps, where thousands of innocent adults and children experienced torture, forced labor, humiliation and ultimately death for the most banal reasons – race or religion.

The Salaspils Memorial Ensemble, surrounded by beautiful nature, stands on the location where an extended police prison and Nazi labor correctional camp were located from 1941 to 1945. Latvian, Lithuanian and Estonian civilians, as well as military personal, were imprisoned here.

The camp has had a lasting legacy in Latvian and Russian culture due to the severity of the treatment, especially with regards to children.

Over 20,000 prisoners went through the camp during its existence, about 2,000 died due to illness, executions and hard-working conditions.

There were no gas chambers or gassing trucks, but still half of the children at the camp were hit fatally by typhoid fever, measles and other diseases.

I didn’t spot any other visitors around during my visit. Therefore, I could walk in peace around one of Europe’s largest monument complexes commemorating victims of Nazism, opened in 1967.

The memorial creates a symbol of the border between life and death with a 100-metre-long concrete wall and giant Soviet-style statues: Mother, The Unbroken, The Infamous, Protest, Red Front and Solidarity. A separate monument, bearing the Star of David and an inscription in Hebrew, Latvian and German commemorates the Jews who died there.

I wish there would be no need to erect these kinds of monuments anymore.

Even though one third of Latvian population lives in Riga, it is not very busy in the summer, when local residents head for their summer residences in the countryside. With over 800 years of history and UNESCO World Heritage status, Old Riga (Vecrīga) was the heart and soul of Latvia’s capital and a highlight of my Latvia travel adventure.

Half of Latvia territory is covered by forest. It might be an ideal environment to pick mushrooms and berries, but not necessary for visitors, who are not properly equipped or knowledgeable about the countryside.

Perhaps due to dull weather or more charismatic neighboring countries, Latvia did not leave a strong impression on my memory. Despite having a similar population and being three times larger than my homeland Slovenia, Latvia felt less engaging. I didn’t find many exciting things to do, missing striking nature, outdoor activities, cultural curiosities, and rich gastronomy.