Croatia

My Croatia travel summary:

Visited: multiple times from 1980

Duration of visit: 120 days

Capital city: Zagreb

Population: 3.9 million (2021)

Croatia travel blog reading time: 9 minutes

• The beautiful Adriatic coast, which I’ve visited countless times.
• Spending summer holidays on Lošinj Island.
• Historic Dubrovnik with its limestone streets, baroque buildings, beautiful walks along the ancient city walls.
• Home of my childhood basketball idols who gave the 1992 American Dream Team a tough match.
• Plitvice lake National park with beautiful waterfalls.

Croatia is famous for the world’s smallest town, the world’s biggest truffle and the Game of Thrones scenery. Ten percent of Croatia’s land is national parks, with 1,244 islands, stunning scenery, Pula’s Roman amphitheater, and more.

Living most of my life in Slovenia, Croatia used to be a part of the same country while I was growing up (Yugoslavia until 1991) and the place where I would go for the summer holidays. Therefore, I evaluate and experience it differently.

I am not as much interested in its history, places to visit, landmarks or typical things to do. I am more curious about football, basketball, beaches, and political impact affecting the quality of life in my homeland.

The most famous Croatian (probably also European) basketball players, Dražen Petrovič and Toni Kukoč, were my idols when growing up and training basketball in my hometown. After Yugoslavia’s breakup, Croatia competed fiercely with Slovenia, and I needed years to get used to cheering against them.

I was very young when my parents used an employer’s holiday house in Veli Lošinj during summer.  It was an old house in downtown that could be used by employees of the Slovenian Institute for Employment, where my mother used to work.

We were always the first family that kicked off in mid-June, before the school year was finished. We would stay in Croatia for three weeks, commuting to the beach in Mali Lošinj on a daily basis. This was the first place I spoke English with German kids. We played, fished, dove, snorkeled, swam, and paddled on an inflatable boat.

We were too poor to eat in restaurants, so my mum had to cook every afternoon. I was regularly fishing on the rocky pier outside the town and once a week we would have fried fishes that were rather small. However, I was extremely proud to add flavor to family dinner.

I met a lot of new friends in nine consecutive summers that I spent there. It was one of the best experiences of my life and I really enjoyed our holidays in Croatia.

As a Yugoslav child in kindergarten or primary school, visiting Kumrovec was a must. It is known as the birthplace of Marshal Josip Broz Tito, Yugoslavia’s lifelong president.

In 1991, I was nineteen and planning my first backpacking trip around Western Europe. I had to go to Zagreb to apply for a French visa, required for Yugoslavian citizens at the time.

Yugoslavia was falling apart at the time. When I crossed the newly established Slovenian-Croatian border in my old Zastava, road barricades blocked the main highway.

My friend in the passenger seat knew all the side roads. We avoided the roadblocks and reached downtown Zagreb, which was almost a ghost town. The employees of the French Embassy were so surprised to receive two young fellows, that issued us tourists visas in the same afternoon.

In 2008, I traveled along the Croatian coast with my partner, seeking to experience the breathtaking islands and the historic towns that Croatia has to offer.

Basic camping gear in the trunk of our car enabled us flexibility and nature-oriented stops along the coast. Along the way, we explored several beautiful places to visit, including Camp Straško at Pag Island, Zadar, Split, Korčula, and finally Dubrovnik.

On the late afternoon ferry to the Island of Pag, the view looked frightening. Bare rock mountains stretched everywhere without a single green spot. The windy weather did not promise the Mediterranean atmosphere of pine forests, sandy beaches, and shady spots found on the island’s western side.

Perfect beaches, modern facilities, and close contact with nature make camping in Croatia an ideal seaside experience.

However, in order to prevent possible accidents and increase income, many campgrounds changed their policies and priorities. I began a BBQ fire late in the afternoon, with all neighbors already out on the beach. I cooked the food and we ate it while the fire was almost out. The security guards came by and warned me that only gas stoves were allowed.

Another big change, besides rising prices, is that mobile homes now take the best spots near the beach. Motorhomes, trailers, and especially tents, are more and more distant from the coast. The view of the sea was replaced by the view of pine trees and inland forest. In some campgrounds, a bicycle is almost mandatory in order to comfortably go from a tent to the beach.

Dubrovnik, historically known as Ragusa, has become Croatia’s hottest destination and a highlight among its premier vacation spots. It attracts regular tourists, as well as celebrities and some of the world’s wealthiest and most extravagant visitors.

During my visit in 2008, Dubrovnik was still manageable, prices inflated, but reasonable and options for budget travelling available. I found a decent campground very close to the beach, with great infrastructure, but cold sea.

Strolling along the stone walls surrounding the old town gives amazing views of the Adriatic Sea and nearby islands. One of the most perfectly preserved medieval cities, was rivaling Venice as a trading port during the 15^th and 16^th centuries. From the 14^th century to 1808, Dubrovnik was a free state allied with Ancona, resisting Venetian control of the Adriatic.

The economic wealth of the Republic was mostly the result seafaring trade; merchants travelled lands freely and the city had a huge fleet of merchant ships. In order to survive throughout centuries as a Republic, Dubrovnikans developed their diplomatic skills to the highest level.

The world’s first commercial pharmacy opened in Dubrovnik in 1317. The first orphanage opened its doors to take in children in 1432. It was also the first country (Republic) to banish slavery in 1416.

Probably the Pearl of the Adriatic became even more famous after the bombing and siege by Yugoslav Army during the Croatian War of Independence.

Following the 1667 earthquake and 1990s war, Dubrovnik’s restoration led to UNESCO recognition for its historical value.

Vibrant narrow streets, palaces, museums, bars, cafés, markets, and street entertainment offer many things to do. These attractions keep Dubrovnik shining as the star of the Adriatic. However, due to rising prices, it is likely to become increasingly oriented toward exclusive visitors with deep pockets.

In August 2009, with a group of friends, I attended the concert of Irish rock band U2, which was part of one of the most successful tours – 360° Tour. They visited stadiums from 2009 through 2011, introducing innovative circular stage, allowing the audience to surround them on all sides. A massive, claw-shaped stage, which permitted fans to view the concert from every angle, was presented for the first time.

Beside a spectacular music, show of lights, special effects and great atmosphere on the Maksimir Stadium in Zagreb, there is another peculiar detail from that night. I was supposed to be accompanied by my partner. Unfortunately, she couldn’t make it, due to the delay in the birth of our first child. Years later we were able to attend another concert from U2 in Los Angeles, which was spectacular as well, but not as special as 360° Tour.

In 2020, I took my kids back to the island of Lošinj. We were camping in a caravan for a week. A typical holiday that so many Slovenians enjoy every year.

Camping remains one of the best ways to enjoy Croatia travel – close to nature, relaxing, and simple. These days, however, Croatia’s camping industry has become more commercialized, with mobile homes and luxury camping becoming the norm. It is all about business these days.

The main idea is to stay close to nature, spending most of the time outdoors in shorts or swimming suits, grilling, or cycling to nearby beaches. There are not many things to do, but that’s exactly what makes the place so relaxing.

Plitvice Lakes National Park is known for a chain of 16 terraced lakes, joined by waterfalls, that extend into a limestone canyon. I was lucky enough to visit the lakes in early July 2021, when the whole Europe was still under Covid-19 pandemic pressure and the park was almost visitors-free. Walking on hiking trails around the lakes, waterfalls and beautiful nature was worthwhile.

An electric boat took us quietly across the lake to the other side. The 78-meter-high Veliki Slap, a famous landmark, was less impressive than I expected.

Nevertheless, walking along the scenic trails, taking a boat ride, and visiting the stunning waterfall were highlights of my Croatia travel experience.

Croatia has been converting to one of the top tourist destinations in the last years. Becoming a member of the European Union, particularly by joining the Schengen Area and adopting the Euro as the official currency, will boost popularity among Western visitors, consequently increase the prices and limit attractiveness among backpackers or low-budget visitors.

The summer months are overcrowded, and most capacities on the Adriatic coast are fully booked due to the high demand for its popular attractions and numerous places to visit.

It is not fun to be surrounded by so many tour groups in the most touristic coastal towns, when exploring the old towns anymore.

I have recently replaced Croatia as a summer destination with Greece. But still, Croatia is a top destination for holidays outside of the main tourist season.