Ukraine

My Ukraine travel summary:

Visited: December 1993, February 2007

Duration of visit: 10 days

Capital city: Kiev

Population: 46 million (2007)

Ukraine travel blog reading time: 5 minutes

• Skiing at the Tysovets ski resort in chaotic and potentially hazardous conditions.
• A brief visit to Lviv left me shocked as I saw empty grocery store shelves.
• Unsuccessful business meetings in Kyiv and walking the main streets at -11°C.

Ukraine, Europe’s second-largest country after Russia, was a key Soviet republic, with many Ukrainians holding top positions. The country suffered heavy destruction during World War II. By 1991, it had become one of the poorest Soviet republics at the time of the Union’s collapse.

The journey toward independence that began in 1991 was marked by significant challenges. Ukraine sought to balance its ties with Russia on one hand and the European Union on the other.

This delicate position was further complicated by the Orange Revolution in 2004, during which the country openly shifted towards the West.

Ukraine is internationally known for the Chernobyl nuclear disaster, its role as a major grain producer, and its reputation for beautiful women. More recently, it has also been defined by the ongoing war with Russia.

As a young boy growing up in Slovenia, I loved skiing and knew all the country’s ski slopes. Ski resorts in Austria, Italy or France were too expensive, so my parents chose Ukraine. There, good skiing conditions came with inexpensive accommodation and food. I was a university student living independently in Ljubljana, but I decided to join my parents for this opportunity.

A long night-bus journey brought us to Ukraine, where heavy snowfall covered the lowland areas. Our final destination was Tysovets ski resort, a winter sports and wellness complex under the Ministry of Defense. This alpine and nordic skiing center was well known and served as a training base for top national athletes.

Real winter conditions awaited us with plenty of snow and low temperatures. The accommodation was simple, and there were only a few ski slopes. I quickly realized that this ski resort couldn’t be compared to the excellent ski facilities in Central Europe.

Dilapidated and outdated ski lifts lost their operating license a long time ago. Additionally, most of snow groomers remained in the valley due to a lack of spare parts. Old, indestructible Russian trucks transported us from the hotel to the ski lifts. They carried passengers in demanding winter conditions without any comfort.

We negotiated all services directly with local operators. Their flexibility and goodwill often depended on payment in local currency or the size of the vodka bottles.

The ski tracks remained in their natural state because no proper snow grooming took place there. Skiing on fresh snow all week ended up being one of the best parts of my Ukraine travel adventure. Besides our group of 50 people, I barely saw any other guests at the resort. My main focus was skiing, as there were no other things to do or places to visit in the area.

Part of our ski package excursion was also a day trip to Lviv, the largest city in western Ukraine. As a city listed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List, it is full of attractions, landmarks, and places to visit, but we simply wandered through its narrow streets on a cold winter day.

Lviv escaped major destruction in World War II. Its position on trade routes between the Black Sea and Central Europe gave it unusually rich architecture for its size. Due to the cold winter weather and dirty streets covered with soot and snow, I couldn’t properly appreciate the city’s charm.

The most disappointing aspect was browsing through grocery stores, as the shelves were predominantly bare and devoid of essential items. We could hardly buy anything, as only locals with special permits were allowed to purchase basic goods.

While working for an American company based in London, I traveled to Kyiv multiple times. I helped set up a sales network for heating and air-purifying products in Eastern Europe.

During the winter season, characterized by limited sunlight and brief daylight hours, outside temperatures frequently dropped below -10°C.

Although walking around was not particularly enjoyable, I persisted in exploring the city during my free hours.

From a business perspective, the majority of the meetings proved to be unproductive; a complete waste of time. Ukrainian retailers acted as extensions of Russian owners or parent companies and didn’t take important decisions locally.

I made a hopeless attempt to meet my boss’s requirements and unrealistic expectations for growing the business in Ukraine. Purchasing power was low, and consumers preferred well-positioned German brands. Local businessmen imported Chinese products under Russian labels and marketed them nationwide through billboards, newspapers, and TV.

With a population of almost 3 million, Kyiv is not only the industrial, scientific, educational, and cultural center of Ukraine, but also one of the main regional hubs. Extensive system of public transport and infrastructure, good restaurants and historical landmarks with plenty of green areas, make it a pleasant tourist destination.

Kyiv, one of the oldest and most important cities in Eastern Europe was founded at the beginning of the 5^th century on flowing hills next to the Dnieper River. It is a city of ancient temples, unusual Soviet architecture, and a rich history reflected in hundreds of monuments, sculptures, and old buildings.

Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Independence Square) is the main square v and one of the city’s highlights, known for its vibrant atmosphere, historic significance, and nearby attractions. The square has long been a gathering place for marches and protests, including the pro-European Union demonstrations in November 2013. The protests turned violent after President Viktor Yanukovych stopped the EU agreement and chose closer ties with Russia instead.

The oldest church in Kyiv, Saint Sophia Cathedral, was built in the 11^th century. It became Ukraine’s first UNESCO site and the city’s most famous landmark.

It was built by Prince Yaroslav the Wise and is decorated with original mosaics. The church is a famous monument from the Kyivan Rus period, a federation of East Slavic and Finnic peoples from the Baltic to the Black Sea.

Also built in 11^th century, St. Michael’s Golden-Domed Monastery, survived the Mongols, who only managed to remove the gilded domes. It fell into disrepair for hundreds of years until it was restored and expanded in 1496.

Unfortunately, my Ukraine travel adventure has so far been limited to two cities and skiing in remote mountains. I still have a long list of interesting places to visit and things to do. Chernobyl is now open to tourists, and the country’s natural wonders are waiting to be explored.

Let us hope Ukraine returns to peace and freedom, so travel becomes possible again and its hidden gems can be explored.