Italy

My Italy travel summary:

Visited: continuously since 1985

Duration of visit: 35 days

Capital city: Rome

Population: 59 million (2022)

Italy travel blog reading time: 15 minutes

• My first backpacking trip started in Italy, hitchhiking to Milan.
• Florence and Rome – the highlight of Italian art, design and culture.
• Relaxed Sicily – beautiful sand beaches and extreme heat.
• Investigating the secrecy of the Leaning Tower in Pisa with Italian friends.
• Napoli and Pompeii Archeological Park – when it gets really hot.
• Having a whale of a time driving a Ferrari at the Tazio Nuvolari circuit.
• Savoring the best pizza in the famous ski resorts of Livigno.

Italy, the birthplace of the Renaissance and home to 58 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, pizza and past, offers a wealth of experiences, with countless places to visit and things to do.

The capital city of Rome with its ancient wonders, the canals of Venice, the fashion capital Milan, the Tuscan countryside, and the magnificent beaches of Sicily are just some of the reasons why Italy is one of the most visited countries in the world.

As one of the neighboring countries of my homeland, Slovenia, it is natural that I have visited Italy regularly. First for shopping with my parents in the 1980s, skiing in the 1990s, later as a flight hub, and eventually for concerts and trade shows.

My first backpacking trip around Europe really began as Italy travel adventure during the summer of 1991. Slovenia had just become independent, I had some savings, and Europe felt wide open before me. I planned to hitchhike through major Western European cities with my friend Andrey.

We got off the train after crossing the border in Fernetti, walked to find a good spot on the highway, and started hitchhiking. It didn’t take long before our first ride arrived. An old Alfa Romeo almost passed us, then stopped a hundred meters ahead.

A young hippy was an incarnation of Brazilian formula 1 driver Ayrton Senna. We were overtaking every car, speeding at over 200 kilometers per hour, and I tried to calm the driver down.

His English was very basic, so it wasn’t easy to calm him down and slow the speed. When we tried asking questions to relax him, he started talking nonsense. I decided to take out a map and focus his attention on where he would drop us off.

He placed the map on the steering wheel, but kept pressing the accelerator and overtaking every car on the way. The situation became dangerous, as he was no longer focused on the road. My idea turned out to be a bad one.

When we finally got out of the car, I needed 15 minutes of fresh air to calm down before we started hitchhiking again.

The final destination that day was Milan, and in the following days we rarely waited more than 15 minutes to get a lift. The hardest part was reaching a good hitchhiking spot near a main road where cars could easily stop.

Milan is the most powerful city in northern Italy, country’s financial and fashion capital. We honestly didn’t care much about places to visit or the city’s landmarks. As big football fans, we only wanted to see the San Siro Stadium, home of AC Milan and Inter Milan. One of the largest stadiums in Europe, it is a monument dedicated to Giuseppe Meazza, a two-time World Cup winner.

The second landmark I appreciated in Milan is the Duomo di Milano, one of the most elaborate Gothic cathedrals in Europe. Its size, art, architecture, and materials make it stunning, featuring stained glass windows, 52 pillars, three impressive altars, and famous statues.

You can probably guess which architectural creation impressed me more: the stadium or the cathedral.

In 2004 a traveled to Venice, Florence, Sienna, Pisa and Rome with Vatican. A classical cultural trip, which could easily be the most common route for millions of foreign tourists that visit Italy every year.

Venice is always crowded in the summer time, but beautiful, humid and tricky.

Instead of negotiating with gondola drivers (gondoliers), I took a public boat from car parking down the Grand Canal to the vicinity of Piazza San Marco and walked back to explore the most famous attractions. Maybe my favorite one is getting lost in hidden corners or dark ghettos.

Gondolas used to be the main mode of transportation in Venice. Today, they are mainly used by tourists willing to overpay and tip gondoliers, who row the boats along the canals using long oars.

The splendor of St. Mark’s Basilica mixes Byzantine and Gothic architecture styles in a unique way. The tallest structure at almost 100 meters – bell tower of Campanile in the back, Palazzo Ducale combined with hundreds of pigeons and tourists on a sunny day, makes it a typical postcard of Venice.

In the city where cars are banned, water taxis, public water buses and gondolas, navigating along Grand Canal, are the only means of transport. The most famous and iconic of 4 bridges spanning the Grand Canal is the Rialto Bridge, always full of tourists taking photos, positioned in lovely poses.

One of the best times to visit Venice is during Carnival, a famous festival known for its elaborate masks. I visited the Venice carnival as a one-day trip from my hometown.

The tradition dating back to 1162, was revived in 1979, and now attracts millions, along with international designers who award the best masks each year.

The Venice Carnival reinterprets ancient Roman and Greek festivals where masks hid social class differences.

I have never seen anything similar anywhere. While most Latin American carnivals feature picturesque, seductive, and fashionable costumes, those in Venice are true works of art.

Masks are made using gesso and gold leaf, then hand-painted and decorated with feathers and gems. Splendid historical costumes are unique pieces that take months to create. The Carnival is now also a big business, but I enjoyed walking through scenic corners, chasing colorful masks and costumes.

I didn’t encounter frenetic atmosphere or loud music; participants move elegantly and happily pose for photos. I would say the Venice Carnival can be an even better experience than a summer visit to the City of Canals.

Even though I am not a huge art fan or admirer of Roman history, Florence and Rome truly impressed me.

Florence became a major center of medieval European trade and finance, and one of the wealthiest cities of its time. It is considered the birthplace of the Renaissance and later developed into an important artistic, cultural, and economic center.

The medieval stone bridge Ponte Vecchio was once occupied by butchers and tanners, while today its shops are filled with jewelers and souvenir sellers. It is especially beautiful at sunset, when colors are strong and the atmosphere calms down.

Michelangelo’s best-known work, the sculpture of David, appears all over Florence, but the original stands inside the Galleria dell’Accademia.

The most visited attraction and one of the highlights of Florence is Piazza Duomo, located in the historic center. The cathedral complex gathers some of Italy’s greatest artistic treasures into one relatively small area. Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore is covered with green and pink marble panels, while its large brick dome dominates the skyline of Florence.

I don’t need to explain the significance of Rome through the Roman Empire, nor mention Vatican City as one of the reasons for its global importance. I visited Rome twice, enjoying walks between landmarks and discovering many exciting things to do along the way.

These are some of the main landmarks:

Colosseum is a large amphitheater that once held 65,000 spectators watching gladiators fight each other and wild animals in Roman times. I could easily say it is the monument that captivated me most. The legends, ancient engineering, brutal history, and remarkable preservation of the Colosseum left a strong impact on me.

Trevi Fountain, built in the 18^th century, depicts the sea god Neptune on his chariot. It is the largest Baroque fountain in Rome and one of the world’s most famous fountains. Tourists throw over a million euros in coins into the fountain each year, hoping for inspiration and happiness.

A former Roman temple and, since 609, a Catholic church, the Pantheon is one of the best-preserved Ancient Roman buildings. Its continuous use over centuries has helped preserve it remarkably well.

St. Peter’s Basilica, the world’s largest church, stands beside St. Peter’s Square, which is dominated by an ancient Egyptian obelisk. It is a major monument shaped over centuries as a centerpiece of the Catholic Church.

I was not patient enough for long queues to the Vatican Museums, which hold outstanding art treasures of the Catholic Church.

The Sistine Chapel features Michelangelo’s frescoes and is where the pope is elected in conclave.

Named after the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See, Piazza di Spagna is one of the most visited attractions in Rome and a popular selfie spot.

What I will remember as much as the main attractions of my Italy travel adventure is the incredible summer heat, delicious pizza, and parking in Rome.

I am used to good pizza and can easily judge its quality. Still, I kept licking my fingers, impressed by the simple mix of crisp dough and simple toppings.

Two or three carefully prepared ingredients, instead of many toppings, make Italian pizza simple, delicious, and full of flavor.

It doesn’t matter where I bought it, as long as it was away from tourist areas.

Rome is best explored with a small car, ideal for narrow cobbled streets, heavy traffic, and tight parking. Small vehicles fill every available space outside old apartment buildings, while I haven’t seen large SUVs or luxury sedans in the city center.

Finding accommodation with a car in Rome can be expensive, so camping was a practical alternative. The campsite was far from the city center but well equipped, with plenty of space and few tents.

The shared facilities were mostly empty. I used the train to reach downtown and avoided traffic and parking problems, as well as the risk of pickpockets targeting foreign-registered cars.

In general, camping in major Italian cities is comfortable. Campgrounds are often outside the center, but public transport is efficient and inexpensive.

My Italy travel adventure in 2008 was dedicated to the southern part of Italy: Ragusa, Catania, Palermo, Volcano Etna, Napoli and Pompeii.

The southern part of Italy differs greatly from the north. Northern Italians are often considered work-focused, organized with well-planned and developed cities.

Southern Italians are welcoming and more relaxed. Everyday life is informal, and summer heat often slows down daily activities.

In Ragusa, we stayed with an Italian friend and her family, giving me a chance to meet Sicilians and explore local cuisine. It is definitely more than just pizza and pasta, as many visitors might think.

Breakfast is usually light and sweet, often a small cake or cookie with cappuccino. Pizza is not eaten for lunch, and many pizzerias stay closed until late afternoon.

I tried two local delicacies: arancini, a creamy risotto rice ball that is breaded and deep-fried, and brioche con gelato.

Brioche con gelato combines warm bread with ice cream. It sounds unusual, but in the afternoon heat and hunger it is a delicious combination.

Our host prepared a delicious dinner with so many different plates that I couldn’t even try all of them. Pasta, vegetables, meat, cheese, fish, and more kept coming to the table. I could not tell what the last dish would be or when it would be served.

The long dinner lasted over two hours and felt like a real event, prepared for the family rather than visitors.

Mount Etna is the highest volcano in Europe and one of the most active in the world, standing 3,327 meters above sea level. A UNESCO World Heritage Site overlooking Catania was erupting lava during my visit. I decided to ascend at night to observe the lava flow from a distance.

I went up at night to watch the lava flow from a distance, but it was too far to see clearly with the naked eye. Only with binoculars, I could see the slow movement of the lava.

The most rewarding part of the trip was walking through lava tunnels and tubes created by flowing magma. These underground tunnels form during eruptions when lava cools on the surface, creating a crust while molten lava continues flowing underneath. When the eruption ends, the tunnel gradually empties.

On August 24, 79 AD, a huge eruption from Mount Vesuvius buried the city of Pompeii under ash and pumice.

Buildings were destroyed, the population was crushed or asphyxiated, and the city was buried under ash and pumice. It remained abandoned until the 18^th century, when the ruins were unearthed and revealed a remarkably preserved Greco-Roman city frozen in time.

Visiting Pompeii in summer was a special experience. The extreme heat was almost unbearable, and only an umbrella helped protect from the sun. I took my shirt off, walked slowly, drank liters of water, and sometimes joined English-speaking tour groups to learn more about this historic site.

In general, Italy offers much to see year-round, though August is the worst month to visit due to Ferragosto holidays.

I saw desperate drivers stuck in long highway toll queues heading south, while I was lucky to be driving north from Naples, watching them struggle for hours.

In 2022, for my 50^th birthday, I drove a Ferrari 812 Superfast at Tazio Nuvolari Circuit near Milan.

The most respected car brand, Ferrari, has always been my favorite. Its speed, sound, design, and iconic red color create a unique elegance that always captures my attention.

The event started at 8:00am, when about 50 candidates gathered for an initial briefing. I was the only non-Italian and struggled to understand instructions given in Italian.

While the cars were being prepared, we were driven around the track in a minivan to learn braking points, curves, and gears. The driver sped through corners, the tires whining under pressure.

Back in the pits, I received a cap, gloves, and helmet, then finally took my seat in the Ferrari. My co-driver adjusted my position and gave final instructions before I was ready to go.

Ferrari F812 Superfast possess 788 horsepower, speeds up to 100km/h in 3 seconds and race with maximum speed at 340km/h.

I enjoyed every second of the ride, improving each lap and overtaking slower cars. The instructor guided me with signals for braking and acceleration.

Although I used only part of the Ferrari’s potential, reaching about 225 km/h on the straight, the acceleration, pressure on the curves, and strong braking were unforgettable.

My Ferrari trip continued into Switzerland and back to Italy through the Eastern Alps and the Dolomites. High mountain passes and beautiful valleys lead to villages popular for winter sports and cycling.

After driving through the Munt la Schera tunnel from Switzerland, I crossed back into Italy and noticed an immediate change. Cappuccino prices dropped from 5 to 1.5 euros, and pasta, pizza, and sweets replaced simpler Swiss meals.

My first stop was the ski resort town of Livigno, recommended as a top place to visit by my friend.

Livigno is a specially administered area in northern Italy, a skiing and cycling paradise and a tax haven.

Apparently, the town was so remote that even tax inspectors avoided crossing the high passes. The tax exemption introduced by the Austrian Empire around 1840 still applies today as a duty-free area.

The biggest benefit is fuel prices. Instead of about 2.00 euros per liter in nearby Switzerland, I filled up in Livigno at 1.10 euros per liter.

Skiing and snowboarding heaven in the winter converts to cycling, mountain biking and trekking destination in the summer. Groups of professional cyclists were passing by every few minutes. The town center with pedestrian area is a wonderful combination of restaurants, bars, wooden houses and stores.

It was time for lunch. I usually look for a restaurant off the main street, expecting lower prices, fresher food, and a quieter atmosphere. The daily menu was surprisingly cheap, with most dishes under 10 euros.

I chose a simple pizza with cherry tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, and basil. What a delight! I couldn’t stop praising the perfect mix of simplicity, fresh ingredients, and crunchy dough.

Whether from a small stand in a quiet street of Rome or in a restaurant in touristy Livigno, Italians really know how to make pizza.

My Italy travel adventure with a 20-year-old Audi A4 continued on some of the highest paved roads in the Alps. When driving up the narrow road to Gavia Pass, my car started struggling about 400 meters before the summit.

The road was in good condition ascending to Santa Caterina, but the descent toward Bormio had many narrow sections where meeting other cars was nearly impossible. The descent was so frightening I promised never to return.

As a warm-up for the Dolomites, I worried about a red warning light in my 20-year-old car. It turned off in the lowlands, so I continued toward Bolzano. When it reappeared on the first climb, I knew I was in troubles. I needed a mechanic to check the engine and give a diagnosis. I didn’t want to risk getting stuck on a 2,000-meter mountain pass with my old car.

It was not easy to find a mechanic on Saturday, but at a local transport workshop, two young technicians immediately opened the hood of my Audi A4. After a few minutes, the diagnosis was as expected:

“It’s the alternator. No quick or cheap fix here, but you can drive home and sort it out later.”

I wasn’t happy with the explanation.

“My home is 600 kilometers away in Slovenia. Do you really think I could drive so far?”

Their heads stacked together and in broken English one of them gave me the answer I wanted:

“No problem, you can drive home. Everything will be OK.”

I realized that the Dolomites will need to wait for another opportunity. I set my home address into the navigation and fortunately reached my residence without any technical issues.

Delicious cuisine, the culture of coffee, passion for design and fast cars are some of the highlights of Italy. Historical sites enriched with Roman ruins, ski slopes, football culture, and the relaxed southern lifestyle are additional the reasons I love Italy travel experience.

Despite all political turmoil and economic decline, Italians enjoy life. They find answers, or trust that solutions will come by themselves.

I will continue to explore the hidden corners of my neighboring country, Italy, and finish my unconcluded adventure in the Dolomites. I also hope to embrace their easy-going southern lifestyle in the future.