Finland

Visited: May 2008

Duration of visit: 3 days

Capital city: Helsinki

Population: 5.5 million (2008)

Finland travel blog reading time: 5 minutes

• Arriving by ferry from Stockholm – a duty-free paradise for high-tax alcohol.
• Finland is the world’s happiest country for various times in a row.
• Helsinki – where the neoclassical meets the Art Nouveau.
• Alvar Aalto legacy – a symbol of northern influences and ideas.

I visited the capital city of Helsinki as a part of Scandinavian capitals trip in 2008, which also included Stockholm, the capital of Sweden. In the early May the temperatures were still quite low. Even so, it was obvious that locals were eager to spend as much time as possible outdoors. They were relaxing in parks, mingling in bars, and wrapping themselves in warm blankets.

My trip was focused only on the capital Helsinki, since there was not enough time to explore the rest of the country. Helsinki is a pleasant city with a fascinating history, shaped by influences from Sweden, the Baltics, and the Russian Empire. It offers plenty of interesting places to visit and things to do.

I found two of the most engrossing facts about Finland:

Finns are the biggest coffee consumers in the World, typically drinking about 5 to 8 cups of coffee a day.

There are more than 2 million saunas for the population of 5.5 million people in Finland. Saunas are the perfect place to relax, clear your mind, and enjoy the moment. They’re also great for meeting new people. Saunas are installed in hotels, leisure centers, office buildings and even in one of the executive boxes at the city’s Hartwall Arena.

Helsinki is a city where the neoclassical meets the Art Nouveau. After a great fire destroyed a third of the town in 1808, the city was rebuilt in a neoclassical style. The new center features wide, elegant streets and boulevards surrounded by plentiful parks. The sights are enhanced by the harbor in the heart of Helsinki. From there, many of the city’s top tourist attractions are within easy walking distance.

The Market Square (Kauppatori) is the main planned and paved square in central Helsinki, where also one of the best-known outdoor markets in northern Europe is located. Vendors sell Finnish food, flowers and tourist souvenirs. Often, fishing boats line up in the water, selling fresh seafood directly from the boat.

The famous Nordic design, recognized as a trend in the 1950s, is not as emphasized as in Stockholm. However, one of the least densely populated urban areas in Europe, provides a harmonious balance between urban amenities and expansive green spaces.

Many of the biggest names in Nordic design, such as Alvar and Aino Aalto, Harri Koskinen, and the Marimekko brand, are rooted in Helsinki.

I visited some of their architectural gems, as well as stores with fabulously designed artefacts and more commercial products.

One of the more unique landmarks in Helsinki is an extensive network of underground bunkers serving to ensure the safety of its residents. Approximately 500 reinforced underground shelters were strategically built to protect the population during times of war or nuclear disaster.

Of all the religious sites I explored, Helsinki Cathedral and Uspenski Cathedral impressed me the most.

Two main religious buildings, Helsinki Cathedral and Uspenski Cathedral, were erected simultaneously between 1830 and 1852. They pay homage to the Grand Duke of Finland, Tsar Nicholas I of Russia. Helsinki Cathedral showcases neoclassical architecture with its impressive white façade and grand staircase. It stands as a powerful symbol of the city’s historical and cultural significance.

In contrast, Uspenski Cathedral, with onion-shaped domes and intricate ornamentation, exemplifies traditional Russian Orthodox architecture. It represents Helsinki’s rich cultural diversity and religious heritage.

Uspenski Cathedral stands out with its brick construction, multiple towers, and 13 golden cupolas. Inside, its altars, icons, and gold-accented arches are just as striking.

The highlights of my religious sightseeing were Helsinki and Uspenski Cathedrals.

The record of memorable architects in my personal list is not very long. I remember buildings, museums, churches or landmarks better than the names of their creators. But Alvar Aalto, representative of Finnish Modernism, a symbol of northern influences and ideas, is definitely on my list. His invention of bent plywood furniture and many other works have reflected practical and bright lines in interior design and décor.

I visited his house, where he lived and worked for almost 20 years. Together with his wife Aino, he designed and built his own house in almost completely untouched surroundings. The architect created the real landmark to serve as a family home and a working studio.

The building represents a unique combination of Alvar Aalto’s personal life and his professional work. It stands today as a testament to his innovative design philosophy.

Flat roof, a large terrace opening up to the south. The slender office wing is in white-painted, lightly rendered brickwork. The positioning of the windows still shows clear hints of functionalism. The residential part is clad with slender, dark-stained timber battens.

Alvar and his wife were well known for open air baths, when they walked around the courtyard naked even when services were held at the nearby church.

Many visitors from abroad tried to climb over the fence to appreciate the house, when it was inhabited and closed to the public. It must have been a bizarre situation encountering the idol, the famous designer relaxing without clothes.

In a land renowned for its internationally recognized architects, it’s ironic that Museum of Contemporary Art was designed by the American architect Steven Holl.

For me, the iconic, curvilinear building was even more interesting to explore than the exhibition itself. The collection focuses on Finnish art since the 1960s, including paintings, sculptures, prints, photos, textiles and media art.

Chiasma (Khiasma) museum indicates the intertwining of two chromosomes. It offers a curvy exterior that continues inside, creating exhibit spaces uniquely suited for contemporary art. The highlight is how seamlessly the flowing architecture enhances the experience of the artworks on display.

Three days in Helsinki gave me a small insight into the life of Finish people, their habits and the main sights of the capital. A lot of research and exploration is missing in order to get to know this interesting country better.

Nevertheless, it is obvious that the quality of life is more important than luxury and competition with neighbors to compare, who owns a bigger house, more powerful car or luxurious goods.

One of the biggest surprises about Finnish people is the result of World Happiness Report, according to which Finland has been officially named the world’s happiest place for various times in a row.

I wonder: “Why Finnish would be the happiest nation in a survey, where people from 149 countries were asked to rate their happiness?”

These might be some reasons: clean, unspoiled nature, one of the best welfare systems in the world, high-quality education and free healthcare, beside high living standards. It is also true, that Finns definitely don’t show their happiness with smiling, openness to the foreigners or friendly greeting.

Finns live by the unique concept of Sisu, a unique conviction that dates back hundreds of years, manifesting perseverance, strength or determination.

“Don’t give up, keep pushing until you complete the task! What must be done – regardless of the cost – will be done! Once you take a certain decision, you should stick to it!”