Finland

Visited: May 2008

Duration of visit: 3 days

Capital city: Helsinki

Population: 5.5 million (2008)

Estimated reading time: 7 minutes

• Arriving by international ferry from Stockholm – a duty free paradise for heavily taxed alcoholic beverages.
• Finland is the world’s happiest country for various times in a row.
• Helsinki – where the neoclassical meets the Art Nouveau.
• Alvar Aalto legacy – a symbol of northern influences and ideas.

I visited the capital city of Helsinki as a part of Scandinavian capitals trip in 2008, which also included Stockholm, the capital of Sweden. It was in early May, when the temperatures are still rather low, but it was obvious that locals are eager to spend as much time as possible outdoors, in parks, mingling in bars, wrapped in warm blankets.

My trip was focused only on the capital Helsinki, since there was not enough time to explore the rest of the country. A pleasant city with a truly fascinating history, acquiring strong influences from Sweden, the Baltics and the Russian Empire.

I found two of the most engrossing facts about Finland:

Finns are the biggest coffee consumers in the World, typically drinking about 5 to 8 cups of coffee a day. They are well ahead of the pursuers Norway, Denmark and Iceland.

There are more than 2 million saunas for the population of 5.5 million people in Finland. A perfect place to cleanse bodies and mind, relax and enjoy the present moment, but also to meet new people and socialize. Saunas are installed in hotels, leisure centers, office buildings and even in one of the executive boxes at the city’s Hartwall Arena, so friends can take a sauna while watching an ice hockey game.

Helsinki is a city where the neoclassical meets the Art Nouveau. After a great fire destroyed a third of the town in 1808, the rebuilt is reflected in a neoclassical city center, laid out in wide, handsome streets and boulevards with plentiful parks. The sights are enhanced by the harbor, right in the heart of Helsinki, from where a number of the top tourist attractions are within walking distance.

The Market Square (Kauppatori) is the main planned and paved square in central Helsinki, where also one of the best-known outdoor markets in northern Europe is located; stands selling Finnish food, flowers and tourist souvenirs are the most popular. There are often even fishing boats lined up in the water, selling fresh seafood directly from the boat.

The famous Nordic design, recognized as a trend in the 1950s, is not as emphasized as in Stockholm. However, one of the least densely populated urban areas in Europe, provides a harmonious balance between urban amenities and expansive green spaces.

Many of the biggest names in Nordic design, such as Alvar and Aino Aalto, Harri Koskinen, and the Marimekko brand, founded by Armi Ratia, are rooted in Helsinki.

I visited some of their architectural gems, as well as stores with fabulously designed artefacts and more commercial products.

One of the more unique landmarks in Helsinki is an extensive network of underground bunkers serving to ensure the safety of its residents. Approximately 500 reinforced underground shelters were strategically built to protect the population during times of war or nuclear disaster.

Two main religious buildings, Helsinki Cathedral and Uspenski Cathedral, were erected simultaneously between 1830 and 1852 to pay homage to the Grand Duke of Finland, Tsar Nicholas I of Russia. Helsinki Cathedral showcases neoclassical architecture with its impressive white facade and grand staircase, serving as a symbol of the city’s historical and cultural significance.

In contrast, Uspenski Cathedral, with onion-shaped domes and intricate ornamentation, exemplifies traditional Russian Orthodox architecture, representing Helsinki’s rich cultural diversity and religious heritage.

The stunning method of building with bricks is notable for its multiple towers and spires topped by 13 gold cupolas that expose Uspenski Cathedral to great visibility. The interior is equally impressive, filled with altars, icons, and crosses, the intricate patterns on its arches set against block marble and a preponderance of gold embellishments.

The record of memorable architects in my personal list is not very long. I remember buildings, museums, churches or landmarks better than the names of their creators. But Alvar Aalto can be easily added to this list. A representative of Finnish Modernism, a symbol of northern influences and ideas. His invention of bent plywood furniture and many other works have reflected practical and bright lines in interior design and décor.

I visited his house, where he lived and worked for almost 20 years. Together with his wife Aino, he designed and built his own house in almost completely untouched surroundings. The house was designed to be both, a home for the family and the studio of an architect, later transformed to a museum.

The building represents a unique combination of Alvar Aalto’s personal life and his professional work and is a testament to his innovative design philosophy. Flat roof, a large terrace opening up to the south. The slender office wing is in white-painted, lightly rendered brickwork. The positioning of the windows still shows clear hints of functionalism. The residential part is clad with slender, dark-stained timber battens.

Alvar and his wife were well known for open air baths, when they walked around the courtyard naked even when services were held at the nearby church.

Many visitors from abroad tried to climb over the fence to appreciate the house, when it was inhabited and closed to the public. It must have been a bizarre situation encountering the idol, the famous designer relaxing without clothes.

In a land renowned for its internationally recognized architects, it’s ironic that the building considered as one of Finland’s landmarks of modern architecture – Museum of Contemporary Art – was designed by the American architect Steven Holl.

An architectural design competition to design a building for the contemporary arts museum in 1992 was open to architects from the Nordic and Baltic countries, and additionally four architects or studios from elsewhere were invited to participate. How curious, that and American architect received an honor out of so many creative local proposals.

For me an iconic, curvilinear building itself is even more interesting to explore than the exhibition, primarily dedicated to Finnish art since 1960s, including paintings, sculptures, drawings, prints, photos, installations, textiles and media art. Chiasma (Khiasma) museum – indicates the intertwining of two chromosomes. It offers curvy exterior that continues inside, creating exhibit spaces uniquely fitting for displaying contemporary works of art.

Three days in Helsinki gave me a small insight into the life of Finish people, their habits and the main sights of the capital. A lot of research and exploration is missing in order to get to know this interesting country better. Nevertheless, it is obvious that the quality of life is more important than luxury and competition with neighbors to compare, who owns a bigger house, more powerful car or luxurious goods.

One of the biggest surprises about Finnish people is the result of World Happiness Report, according to which Finland has been officially named the world’s happiest place for various times in a row.

I wonder: “Why Finnish would be the happiest nation in a survey, where people from 149 countries were asked to rate their happiness?”

These might be some reasons: clean, unspoiled nature, one of the best welfare systems in the world, high-quality education and free healthcare, beside high living standards. It is also true, that Finns definitely don’t show their happiness with smiling, openness to the foreigners or friendly greeting.

Finns live by the unique concept of Sisu, a unique conviction that dates back hundreds of years, manifesting perseverance, strength or determination. “Don’t give up, keep pushing until you complete the task! What must be done – regardless of the cost – will be done! Once you take a certain decision, you should stick to it!”

A slightly different concept that Swedish Lagom Lifestyle – Not too little. Not too much. Just right.

Despite the popular reputation for large amounts of alcohol consumed, statistics do not confirm this fact in Finland. Admittedly, the amount of alcohol consumed in Finland has increased over the past fifty years, but it remains only slightly above the European average.

The price of alcoholic beverages in bars and restaurants is so unreasonably high, that many use the opportunity to travel on duty free ships to Estonia or Sweden, where the savings on drinking or purchased alcoholic beverages outweighs the price of the ticket.