Costa Rica

My Costa Rica travel summary:

Visited: March 1997, June 2015

Duration of visit: 18 days

Capital city: San Jose

Population: 4.9 million (2015)

Costa Rica travel blog reading time: 13 minutes

• Climbing the dangerous Arenal Volcano.
• Finishing my career as a birdwatcher in Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Preserve.
• Spotting white-faced monkeys in Manuel Antonio National Park.
• Friendly ticos, charmingly skilled at getting money from tourists.
• Pura vida – simple, relaxed, good life.

The name Costa Rica means “rich coast.” It is not only known for its beaches but also as a green oasis and the most developed country in Central America. For many, it is a popular, safe, and affordable vacation destination with exciting places to visit and things to do.

Costa Rica’s official motto, pura vida, translates as “pure life”. It means living well through simple pleasures, peace of mind, and time with family and friends without rush or pressure. It also reflects a close connection to nature, fresh food, good coffee, and respect for natural resources.

Costa Rica travel adventure was part of my American Big Tour, which started in New York and finished in Buenos Aires 15 months later. I was already an experienced backpacker and could communicate in Spanish when I crossed the border from Nicaragua.

Crossing the border from Nicaragua felt almost like returning to Europe. I was surprised by well-stocked supermarket shelves at the border and toilet paper in public toilets. I also noticed large air-conditioned buses, a level of comfort I hadn’t experienced for months.

Costa Rica is the most expensive country to visit in Central America.

Lodging, dining, and transportation costs are higher than in neighboring countries. Most attractions and popular places to visit require entry fees.

When crossing the border, I was afraid of being denied entry because I lacked the required onward ticket to prove I would leave soon. In the end, the friendly officer did not check it. He wished me a pleasant stay in the most Americanized country in Latin America, only asked if I had anti-malarial pills.

“Of course, I do, although I am not convinced that I’ll need them in Costa Rica!“, I replied dumfound.

“I also got vaccinated against yellow fever!”

San José reminded me of a Western capital, at least in the city center. Central Street felt similar to Oxford Street in London, with decorated shops, cafés, and American fast-food chains like McDonald’s, Burger King, and Subway. After more than a month in Honduras and Nicaragua, even my hotel felt luxurious again, especially because it had a hot shower.

Even backpackers in Costa Rica are different than those I was encountering in countries south of Mexico. It is much easier travelling, basic standards are higher, safety is at another level.

San José offers a good mix of parks, hotels, theaters, and historic buildings, but it lacks major attractions, exciting places to visit and memorable things to do. Most of the highlights are around the country: tropical forest, national parks, volcanoes, wildlife, and beautiful beaches.

One of my biggest unfulfilled desires in Costa Rica and Central America was to see an active volcano. What could be more impressive than witnessing underground explosions, flowing lava, and glowing rocks erupting into the air?

I chose perfectly symmetrical Arenal Volcano to embody all these expectations and become a highlight of my Costa Rica travel adventure. The volcano had been dormant until 1968, when lava suddenly began to flow and trapped unsuspecting locals.

Before the most recent eruption, La Fortuna was a remote village with a simple lifestyle and traditions that hadn’t changed for centuries.

Today, it is widely known as a must-see destination even before arriving in Costa Rica.

Travel agents approached me immediately after I got off the bus, before I could even pick up my backpack. As usually, I chose the two cheapest guesthouses in Lonely Planet and walked toward the nearest one.

When I got to the place where the chosen hotel was supposed to be, I couldn’t find it. I was slowly starting to regret why I didn’t listen to the scouts, making it easier to find accommodation.

With disappointment, I asked a taxi driver: “Hola, qué pasa? Where is the Central Guesthouse?”

“No, it’s not here anymore. Other budget guesthouses have also closed or become luxury hotels,” the friendly mestizo driver explained.

“Best option is Charlie’s cabin. Go there before other bus passengers take the beds. If you need a ride to the volcano, call me!”

I thanked him and walked toward Charlie’s place.

Charlie’s wife introduced me to the hotel system. A simple dorm-style setup with two or three beds per room for only 3USD per night.

In this small guesthouse I met travelers mostly heading north from South America, while I was going south. We exchanged stories, advice, adventures and warnings about countries. Heavy rain, poor visibility, and humidity kept us inside, while Arenal Volcano stayed hidden in clouds.

I got a new roommate, Douglas from Canada, a real connoisseur of the area. He had just returned from a three-day trek in the surrounding hills, soaked, and depressed by the bad weather. After a short conversation, we realized we shared the same goal that brought us to the village of La Fortuna.

“Damn the weather—we’re going tomorrow anyway,” we decided.

We will ignore agencies and guides. We were determined to take our small backpacks and conquer Arenal Volcano.

After a filling breakfast, we were already by the roadside, waving at passing vehicles and asking locals for directions to Arenal. A rundown pickup truck stopped, and the driver kindly invited us into the cabin. During the short ride he advised us about how dangerous lava can be.

“You don’t see it at all, and then it suddenly erupts and spreads into the valley! Be careful, boys! Don’t go higher than the visitor limits!”

As if he was reading the minds and adventure plans of two eager young men.

He dropped us at the park entrance and wished us good luck. That morning, clouds had covered the crater, and it seemed likely rain would follow as a cold wind blew.

There were hardly any people around, just the occasional lost soul here and there. We walked fast.

Shortly after, we met a Canadian couple on their honeymoon. The coast was beautiful, with hot sun, sandy beaches, and clear water, but the volcano was a disappointment for them.

We walked close together the rest of the way to the lookout point. Visibility was almost zero. Huge black rocks of solidified lava had been there for years, maybe even centuries. I took a few photos. We were soaked to the skin.

“I hope this isn’t the end!” I said to Douglas in despair when we saw a no-trespassing sign.

“No, that’s for tourists, not for us. Hey Rocky, are we going?” my friend shouted.

“Where?” I asked in disbelief.

“Up, to the crater, of course!” Doug smiled.

“Vamos, amigo! Let’s go—I’m here to see lava!” I didn’t want to stay behind.

The newlyweds didn’t want to join us: “Our honeymoon doesn’t include crazy adventures. We’re going back to the valley. If you’re not back by nightfall, we’ll organize a rescue!”

We began climbing toward the crater of Arenal Volcano, hidden in clouds and fog so we couldn’t even see it. We soon realized that this stratovolcano would not be easy to conquer.

Step by step over the black rocks, I wondered what waited at the top and how long it would take to reach it. We moved as directly upward as possible, memorizing the route for an easier descent back to the visitor center.

Only one path leads down to the valley; elsewhere, dense jungle makes it impossible to pass.

We climbed for two hours; big rocks turned into black sand, and each step slid me back slightly. My shoes filled with volcanic dust and sand, and strong wind brought rain.

Feeling desperate, I suggested to Doug that we turn slightly right where I could hear some noise. We moved across soft ground where our feet sank deeply into the volcanic sand as the storm intensified. I sheltered behind a rock, wrapped my camera in a plastic bag, and packed it at the bottom of my backpack.

A bunch of stones began falling from the top of the volcano – first small fragments of solidified lava, then increasingly larger rocks. I had to be careful not to be hit or knocked down the slope. The ground suddenly shook.

I feel something burst under my feet first. A few decimeters, maybe a few meters below me, the solidified lava layers began to move.

“Ooouu, this is it!”

I started screaming with excitement, but at the same time I knew we had our last chance to descend safely. Douglas agreed, and we quickly ran back down the slope to where we had left the main path.

Visibility was still low; only 10 to 15 meters at most.

Only then I realized the landscape around me looked the same. The monotony of black volcanic sand was broken only by scattered rock formations, while the first trees were still far away.

For a few moments, the sky cleared and I spotted two lakes in the valley. One was the correct one we needed to reach, as the path led past it toward the first settlements. The other was a misleading lure into an impassable jungle.

“Which one is the real lake, Douglas?” I asked my co-adventurer.

Were we going to spend the night in the safety of a hotel room or in the rainforest below the slopes of Arenal Volcano? I was already getting dark?

The other guests at the guesthouse were really worried when we returned late at night. We explained our journey and the risks we had taken beyond the limits. We were the only ones foolish enough to be on the volcano slopes that day, as all guided tours had been canceled due to bad weather.

Climbing the dangerous zones of Arenal Volcano was the highlight of my Costa Rica travel adventure.

The Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Preserve is one of Costa Rica’s most famous natural reserves. Its rainforest is rich in birds, insects, plants, and mammals, including the quetzal that attracts thousands of tourists.

Although I am not a big birdwatching fan, I decided to visit Monteverde mainly to try spotting the long-tailed quetzals.

Several Mesoamerican civilizations regarded quetzals as sacred. They are the national bird of Guatemala and are native only to Central America.

The optimal time for observing birds is early morning, so I arrived at the park by 7:00am. I walked the winding paths with an elderly American couple. They carried binoculars, a wide-angle camera, and patience.

I quickly became impatient, while Peter kept assuring me that birds would appear if I stayed quiet and slow. I followed his advice until noon, but I only saw two small yellow-black birds and no quetzals, monkeys, or sloths.

Tired and disappointed, I sat on a bench and decided birdwatching was not for me.

Birdwatching requires binoculars, a telephoto camera, and a lot of patience, making it especially suited to retired tourists with time and money. I was happy to give it up and stick to my more adventurous travel style.

The active Poás Volcano, at 2,708 meters above sea level, is much easier to visit than Arenal. Only two hours from San José and surrounded by beautiful highlands, it has become one of Costa Rica’s most popular attractions. Although it has erupted dozens of times since 1828, it was calm and open to visitors during my Costa Rica travel adventure.

An almost empty bus with only six passengers took us to the summit, from where it was just a five-minute walk to the viewpoint. Before me lay a green lagoon, one of the most acidic lakes in the world.

We arrived just in time to take a few photos before heavy rain started half an hour later, reducing visibility to only a few meters.

It sounded very familiar – just like my experience at Arenal Volcano.

Only rocks surround the lake. Toxic substances in the water had killed all plant life, and animals avoid the heat and strong sulfur smell.

Acid gases create acid rain and fog that damage ecosystems and can irritate the eyes and lungs. I learned that geyser eruptions occur when water seeps into volcanic rock, heats up, and turns into explosive steam.

Manuel Antonio National Park, on the Pacific coast, is the smallest national park in Costa Rica, but also one of the most popular places to visit in the whole country. Everyone had recommended that I go there if I wanted to spot monkeys.

Around noon, they were supposedly always descending to the beach and entertain visitors with their hanky-panky. As announced, while lying on the beach, I suddenly heard the noise up in the branches of the trees. A dozen of white-faced monkeys started to jump from one tree to another until they came right down to the beach, looking for food or interesting objects they could play with.

I grabbed all my belongings and put them away in my bag, took a few nice photos and enjoyed the presence of capuchin monkeys from very close, but safe distance. Beautiful!

Monkeys should not be considered pets, as they are not inherently friendly creatures; in certain situations, they can be considerable aggressive and pose a danger. They are very confident, moving fast and reacting quick if not feeling comfortable.

Howler monkeys are not as confident as white-faced monkeys, but their sound is much more remarkable. I spotted them walking through the forest, higher up on the trees. They are larger and darker, without any signs of other than black or dark brown colors. Too far and too fast to take a decent photo.

After two weeks of my Costa Rica travel adventure, I left for Panama feeling underwhelmed. It felt too touristy and expensive, with high national park fees and too many American visitors. The country also seemed heavily Americanized to me, with fast food chains, US dollar prices, and English mixed into Spanish.

With strong marketing of eco-friendly strategy, and sustainable use of natural resources, Costa Rica has successfully positioned itself as a top tourist destination in the region.

It seems that the pura vida lifestyle and wide range of activities will continue to keep Costa Rica a top tourist destination in the region.

Ticos are friendly and skilled at getting money from tourists. There are many exciting places to visit and interesting things to do in Costa Rica. However, I prefer more pristine, culturally diverse Central American countries with a richer pre-Columbian heritage and fewer foreign visitors.