Costa Rica

Visited: March 1997, June 2015

Duration of visit: 18 days

Capital city: San Jose

Population: 4.9 million (2015)

Estimated reading time: 17 minutes

• Climbing Arenal Volcano until feeling the earth moving under my feet.
• Finishing my young career as a birdwatcher in Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Preserve, realizing that I am not patient, nor old enough for this activity.
• Spotting white-faced monkeys in Manuel Antonio National Park.
• Friendly ticos, who are masters of getting money out of tourists in a charming way. After paying high price for any service you are somehow feeling you owe them a tip.
• Pura vida – living a good life with simple pleasures in a relaxed peace of mind, categorized Costa Rica as one of the happiest countries in the world.

The word Costa Rica in Spanish means wealthy beach. Costa Rica, however, is not only known for its beautiful beaches; the whole country is a kind of green oasis and the most developed country in Central America, bordered by Nicaragua and Panama. Costa Rica represents for Americans something similar to what Spain or Greece mean to Europeans – an inexpensive and safe place for summer vacations.

An official slogan or motto of Costa Rica is “pura vida” which could be directly translated to pure life.

It means living a good life with simple pleasures in a relaxed peace of mind, surrounded by family members and friends, without rush or too much pressure. Connect with nature, eat freshly organic fruits, drink quality coffee, appreciate, respect and protect natural resources!

Costa Rica was part of my American Big Tour around the Americas in 1996-97, which started in New York and ended in Buenos Aires 15 months later. I was already an experienced backpacker, able to communicate in Spanish by the time I crossed the border from Nicaragua.

When I crossed the border from Nicaragua, I felt almost as coming back to Europe again. What surprised me the most, were well-stocked shelves in a regular supermarket at the border, where even Milka chocolate was on sale; toilet paper available in public toilets and luxury full size buses with AC (not always working though) was a luxury that I haven’t received for months. I haven’t used a decent bus through all Central America since Mexico.

Costa Rica is the most expensive country in Central America.

The costs associated with lodging, dining, and transportation are elevated compared to those in neighboring countries; furthermore, entry fees are required for almost all attractions that visitors wish to explore.

When crossing the border, I was afraid of being denied the entry, because I didn’t possess the only required document – an onward ticket to prove that I would really leave the country in the near future. Eventually it wasn’t verified. The only question from the friendly customs officer, who first wished me a pleasant stay in the most Americanized country in Latin America, was, if I had anti-malarial pills.

“Of course, I do, although I am not convinced that I’ll need them in Costa Rica!,” I replied dumfound.

“I also got vaccinated against yellow fever before I started the trip!”

The capital city San Jose reminded me of Western European capitals, at least as far as the strict downtown is concerned. Central Street is quite similar to Oxford Street in London; many nicely decorated shops, cafeterias and fast food restaurants of the American food chains McDonald’s, Burger King and Subway. After more than a month of sleeping in uncomfortable places around Honduras and Nicaragua, the hotel was luxurious again – it also offered hot shower.

Even backpackers in Costa Rica are different than those I was encountering in tough countries south of Mexico. It is much easier travelling, basic standards are higher, safety is at another level. Many foreigners decide to visit only Costa Rica as a holiday destination or combine it with Panama for two to three weeks.

San Jose offers a good combination of parks, hotels, theaters, and historic buildings; however, it tends to be a less frequented destination due to the extensive offer in the surrounding regions: lush jungles, nationals parks, volcanos animal watching and amazing beaches. Located in the heart of a tropical rainforest, it takes only a short drive outside the city limits to find humid forests and wildlife.

One of my most significant unfulfilled desires in Costa Rica, as well as throughout Central America, was to observe an active volcano. What could be more beautiful than experience a sight of underground explosions, rolling of hot lava with large glowing rocks flying into the air, leaving devastation behind?

An active Arenal Volcano, with symmetrical shape, is supposed to qualify as a perfect embodiment of all these requests. A harmless mountain with a source of lava inside was completely dormant until 1968, when burning lava suddenly began to flow and trapped dozens of unsuspecting locals.

Prior to the most recent violent eruption, the village of Fortuna was an ordinary remote settlement with simple life and traditions that hadn’t changed for centuries.

Today, it is known to every foreigner even before visiting Costa Rica that it is a must-see destination.

Many travel agency brokers started to pester me even before I managed to pick up my backpack from a bus and set off in search of a guesthouse. As many times before, I chose the two cheapest guesthouses in Lonely Planet guide and started to walk toward the closest one.

When I got to the place where the chosen hotel was supposed to be, it was nowhere to be found. I was slowly starting to regret why I didn’t listen to the scouts, making it easier to find accommodation in Fortuna.

With a sense of disappointment, I asked a taxi driver:

“Hola, que pasa? Where is the Central Guesthouse?”

I guess I didn’t get lost, and the map in the guidebook should probably also be correct, as things don’t change that fast.

“No, it`s not here anymore. It was torn down! Also, other inexpensive guesthouses have been recently either closed or converted into luxury hotels so they can now double or even triple the income!” a friendly mestizo taxi driver explained me.

“The best option for you, amigo, is a cabin at my friend Charlie’s! Go there before the other bus passengers take all available beds! If you need a ride to the volcano, just call me!”

I thanked the taxi driver for an advice and increased the walking speed to the direction of Charlie’s place.

A friendly owner, Charlie’s wife, introduced me to the hotel’s operating system; a kind of dormitory with two or three beds in a room at only 3.00US$ per night, under condition that you are willing to share the room with other guests if they come and are acceptable for you.

In a small hotel, I met other travelers who mostly started their journeys in South America and were heading north, just the opposite of my route. We exchanged experiences about visited countries, where to go and where not, dangers and adrenaline full experiences, what the weather is like, etc.

The severe weather conditions with persistent rain showers, low visibility and high humidity in the days that followed provided ample opportunity for conversation. Arenal Volcano was covered with clouds and fog, visiting the crater proved to be pointless.

I got a new roommate, Douglas from Canada, a true connoisseur of this area. He had just returned from a three-day trek through the surrounding hills, completely soaked, tired and depressed due to the bad weather. After just a few minutes of introductory conversation, we found out that we had a common goal that brought us to the uninspiring village of Fortuna.

Conquering Arenal Volcano!

“Damn the weather, we’re heading towards the crater tomorrow, and we’ll see what can be done! No agencies, no guides, hitching a ride, with a small backpack, only the two of us!” were the mutual expressions on our adventurous minds.

After a filling breakfast, we were already by the roadside, waving our hands to the scarce passing vehicles and asking the locals about the route to the famous Arenal. A run-down pick-up truck stopped; the driver politely invited us to join him in a cabin and, while driving, he gave us some advices on how insidious lava can be.

“You don’t see it at all, but then all of a suddenly explodes and spreads out towards the valley! Be careful, boys, don’t walk higher than it is allowed for visitors!”

As if he was reading the minds and adventure plans of two eager young men.

He dropped us at the park entrance and wished us good luck. That morning, the clouds appeared to have covered the crater on the top. t seemed likely that rain would soon follow, as a brisk, cold wind was blowing.

There are hardly any people around, just the odd lost soul here and there. We walk fast.

According to Douglas mindset, you don’t get tired this way, because you use significantly less energy. Shortly thereafter, we came across a Canadian couple celebrating their honeymoon. The coast was beautiful, the sun hot, sandy beaches and clear water like in paradise, but the volcano is a disappointment.

We walk close to each other the rest of the way to the lookout point. Almost zero visibility. Big black rocks of solidified lava have been here for years, maybe even centuries! Who would know? I take a few shots with my camera! We are both soaked to the skin.

“I hope this is not the end!” I comment to Douglas in despair, when seeing a warning sign of no trespassing.

“No. This sign is for tourists, not for us. Hey Rocky, are we going?” my crazy friend shouts enthusiastically.

“Where?” I ask in disbelief.

“What do you mean where? Up, to the crater, of course!” Doug smiles.

“Vamos, amigo! Let’s go! I’m here to see lava! Let’s go up!“ I don’t want to stay behind.

Newlyweds were immediately against it: “Our honeymoon does not include crazy adventures. We’re going back to the valley and if you’re not there by nightfall, we will organize a rescue operation! Good luck!”

Douglas and I start climbing towards the top of the crater of the Arenal Volcano which is covered with clouds and fog, so we can’t even see it. This stratovolcano – a large, symmetrical volcano that’s built upon layers of ash, rock and lava, is not easy to conquer.

As I walk step by step over big black rocks, I speculate about what’s on top and how long it will take to get there. We walk as straight up as possible, trying to memorize the direction for the easiest descent to the visitor center later.

Only one path leads to the valley, elsewhere the surface is covered by a thick, impassable tropical rainforest.

We climb for two hours; big rocks are replaced by black sand; with each step uphill my foot slides ten centimeters down. My shoes are full of dust and volcanic sand, the wind is blowing strong, it starts to rain. Despair strikes me slowly, so I suggest we turn slightly right from the direction where I can hear some noise.

We traverse rapidly over an extremely soft surface, where almost my entire shoe sinks into the volcanic sand. It has been pouring, a storm begins. I hide in the shelter of a small rock, wrap up the camera in a plastic bag and pack it away on the bottom of my backpack.

A bunch of stones begin to fall from the top of volcano; at first there are small pieces of solidified lava, followed by ever-increasing massive rocks. I have to be careful not to get hit by any of them, as it could hurt me or kicking me down the embankment. The floor suddenly shakes.

I feel something burst under my feet first, and then, a few decimeters, maybe a few meters below me, solidified lava remains begin to move.

“Ooouu, this is it!”

I start screaming with excitement, but, at the same time, I am aware that we have the last opportunity to safely descend to a more secure area. Douglas agrees with me, so we quickly run back down the hill, to where we turned off the course.

Visibility is still low; ten, maybe fifteen meters maximum.

Only now I realize that the whole landscape around me looks the same. Monotony of black volcanic sand is randomly interrupted by stone masses, and the first trees are still relatively far.

For a few moments the sky clears up and I spot two lakes in the valley. One of the lakes is the proper one we need to reach, as the path leads past it to the first settlements. The other lake is just a dangerous lure to get lost into an impassable jungle.

“Which one is the real lake, Douglas?” I ask for the opinion my co-adventurer.

Are we going to spend the night in the safe shelter of a hotel room or in the rainforest below the slope of Arenal Volcano, as night falls rapidly over us?

“It’s on the left, 100%!”

“In my opinion we should go to the left!”, I object to the confident Canadian and persuade him until he also agrees with me.

We have to climb up the hill again and descent on the other side of a small forest area, which has not been burned by leave yet. But no big deal, as long as we decide to follow the line for the right lake. Fifteen minutes later we come across a warning sign No trespassing. Dangerous. We ignored it when starting our adventure, but now it represents the official confirmation of our return to the right track.

The other people in the guesthouse were extremely worried when we arrived to the hotel late at night. During long conversation, we explain our adventure and risks that we took, walking further up behind the designated limit. We were the only fools taking risk out on the slope of the volcano that day; all guided tours had been canceled due to bad weather.

Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Preserve is one of the most famous natural reserves in Costa Rica. Its beautiful rainforest, where dozens of different species of birds, insects, plants, mammals and the famous quetzal attract thousands of tourists.

I am not really a big birdwatching fan, but still decided to visit Monteverde mainly to try spotting the quetzals, legendary colorful long tail birds.

Several Mesoamerican civilizations regard quetzals as sacred; they are celebrated as the national bird of Guatemala and are native solely to Central America.

The optimal time for observing birds is during the early morning, which is why I arrived at the park by 7:00am. I walked the beautifully landscaped winding paths with an old American couple, fully prepared with binoculars, wide angle camera and a lot of patience.

I was impatient soon, but Peter constantly comforted me that birds will show up in no time:

“You just have to be patient, walk quietly, slowly and when you least expect it, a marvelous, colorful creature will appear in front of you; maybe even a quetzal.”

I followed his instructions until noon, when I got really tired, disappointed and kind of angry. I sat down on a bench on the way out of the park. I hiked at least 8 kilometers and spotted only two small yellow-black colored birds. There was absolutely no sign of quetzal, monkeys or sloths during the whole morning.

I made a serious decision that would greatly influence my future activities related to birds. Birdwatching is not for me! I believe I am too young for this activity!

First of all, you need to have the right equipment – binoculars, a camera with telephoto lenses and a great deal of patience. Therefore, this activity is especially suitable for retired tourists with plenty of money and time. I am happy to give up further steps on my birdwatching career and remain faithful to my travel-adventure orientation.

Active Poas Volcano at 2,708 meters above sea level, is much easier to access than Arenal Volcano. It is only a two-hour drive from San Jose, so it is no wonder that it is one of the most touristic spots in Costa Rica. The volcano has erupted 40 times since 1828, but during my trip it is calm and open for direct access to the crater.

An almost empty bus, with only six passengers took us right to the top of volcano from where it is only a five-minute walk to a view point overviewing the crater. The green lagoon, filled with one of the world’s most acidic lakes, opened in front of me.

We arrived just in time to take a few photos before rain started to pour half an hour later and reduced visibility to a few meters. It sounds familiar to Arenal Volcano!

Only rocks remain around the lake; all plants died due to toxic substances in the water and animals prefer to avoid the high temperature of the lake and stench of sulfur that I smelled strongly when the wind started to blow.

Acid gases create acid rain and acid fog, causing damage to surrounding ecosystems and often irritation of eyes and lungs. A geyser-like eruption can be caused by water seeping into the pockets of the volcanic rock and heating up until it becomes explosive steam.

Manuel Antonio National Park, on the Pacific coast, is the smallest national park in Costa Rica, but also one of the most popular. Everyone had recommended me to visit it, if I wanted to spot monkeys.

Around noon, they were supposedly always descending to the beach and entertain visitors with their hanky-panky. As announced, while lying on the beach, I suddenly heard the noise up in the branches of the trees. A dozen of white-faced monkeys started to jump from one tree to another until they came right down to the beach, looking for food or interesting objects they could play with.

I grabbed all my belongings and put them away in my bag, took a few nice photos and enjoyed the presence of capuchin monkeys from very close, but safe distance. Beautiful!

Monkeys should not be considered pets, as they are not inherently friendly creatures; in certain situations, they can be considerable aggressive and pose a danger. They are very confident, moving fast and reacting quick if not feeling comfortable.

Howler monkeys are not as confident as white-faced monkeys, but their sound is much more remarkable. I spotted them walking through the forest, higher up on the trees. They are larger and darker, without any signs of other than black or dark brown colors. Too far and too fast to take a decent photo.

Upon departing for Panama after two weeks of exploring this Central American country, I found myself lacking enthusiasm for Costa Rica. Too touristy, too expensive, high entrance fees to national parks, lots of spoiled American tourists. In fact, the country is too Americanized for my personal taste: fast food chains, many prices quoted in US$, mixed English words in Spanish, etc.

With excellent marketing campaign, innovative approaches and advance usage of natural resources, Costa Rica managed to position itself as a top destination in the region.

It seems that pura vida lifestyle or slogan will continue to place Costa Rica as a prime tourist destination in the region.

No matter what, ticos are really friendly and know how to get money out of a tourist’s pocket. Tourism is in their vein and there is no doubt that they will keep attracting more visitors in the future. However, I prefer more pristine, culturally more diverse Central American countries with a rich pre-Columbian legacy and less foreign visitors.