Western USA – Big trip

Visited: August 1996

Duration of visit: 90 days

Estimated reading time: 26 minutes

• Talking to an ex-prisoner of Alcatraz Federal Penitentiary in San Francisco.
• Driving a motorbike on the six-lanes highway.
• The glitz and glamour of Los Angeles.
• Touring around national parks of the West Coast.
• Enthusiastic about the evolution of Las Vegas from a small frontier town into a global gambling and entertainment mecca.

The Land of Opportunity, where I started my first Big Tour and kept coming back to explore more and more, is one of the best countries to visit for me, but not to live.

I am separating my exploration of US in three sections, that occurred in different phases, periods and circumstances:

• as a backpacker crossing the US on a car and motorbike (1996),
• working in Grenville, SC, for a Slovenian corporation (2005-06) and
• a couple of short trips to specific areas (Hawaii, Florida) in 2014 and 2017.

In this article I describe the second half of my backpacking experience around US – Western USA, which was part of the American Big Tour in 1996:  Stunning San Francisco, buying a motorbike in Los Angeles, fabulous national parks on the West Coast, Las Vegas – an entertainment mecca.

More articles about the USA adventures are available here:

Following a month of exploring the Eastern and Central USA, I chose to relocate to the West Coast by employing an alternative means of travel – drive away with the final destination in Portland, Oregon. Without GPS, internet or any other electronic help, I navigated perfectly signed road system with a paper map. I delivered the car to the owners, collected my deposit in the agency and I was free to go.

The city of Portland is a modern, representative American city without any mayor attractions according to my criteria. It was more of a stopover to the next destination, San Francisco.

Alcatraz, the Golden Gate Bridge, Pacific Ocean, hippies, homeless and trams are just some of the attractions that have kept me in the area for eleven days. I met quite a few travelers of different nationalities and interests, a former Alcatraz prisoner and talked to homeless people on the streets.

One of the most memorable experiences was the ride in a police car over the famous Golden Gate Bridge. I walked all the way from downtown, crossed the bridge by footpath and stayed on the north side of the bridge for the sunset without realizing that the passenger part of the bridge was closing at 9:00 pm. I had no choice but asking for help to a nearby police officer, who drove me to the other side without any problems.

At a youth hostel, I met an elderly American from Houston, who was making new friends with incredible speed. His recipe for making contact was simple: he came to a stranger and recited simple introductory words:

“Hi, I am Don. I want to be your friend. Let’s talk!”

So typical self-confidence and fearless approach for American culture.

He reached an agreement with his previous employer to retire early, intending to utilize his free time to explore the United States prior to his wife’s retirement in six months. Subsequently, they plan to embark on a five-month journey to India. Americans are full of lovely stories, which confirm that their homeland is a land of opportunities for hard-working, creative and intelligent people.

Invented In San Francisco a century and a half ago, cable cars were once one of the most efficient ways to get around the town. The San Francisco cable car network is the world’s last manually operated cable car system, primarily dedicated to tourists, who have time to wait and travel slowly on one of the three remaining lines.

Riding a tram in San Francisco is a unique experience also because of the impressive views of the bay and Alcatraz on the way to Fisherman’s Wharf.

The Crookedest Street in the World, Lombard Street is a vertically-endowed one-block section of 8 hair-pin turns located in the Russian Hill district. The hill has a natural 27% grade, which was too steep for the automobiles of the day to climb back in 1922 and it could have been dangerous in the downhill direction. The zig-zagging route was a solution to easier the climb, safer for vehicles and pedestrians.

Lombard Street did not achieve its iconic status instantly. It was not until the 1960s, three decades after the introduction of the hairpin turns, that it began to feature on postcards.

One of the places in San Francisco that impressed me most, is the former Alcatraz prison.

If in the past its famous inhabitants were Al Capone, Machine Gun Kelly and Robert Birdman, today a significant number of tourists travel by boat to this secluded island situated in San Francisco Bay.

From 1934 to 1963 the island served as an Alcatraz Federal Penitentiary, where most of the prisoners were notorious bank robbers, murderers and political terrorists; some of the most renowned criminals in American history. Being too expensive to operate, the prison was closed and abandoned.  The American Indians claimed the island, demanding reparations for the many treaties broken by the US government, until in 1972 the area fell under jurisdiction of the National Park Service.

For a walk between the prison cells, each visitor receives audiphones to listen to statements of former convicts and guards.

Despite the fact that the island of Alcatraz is only 2 kilometers away from the coast, according to official records, none of the prisoners managed to escape from the prison alive. Water currents are oriented towards the island and the low temperature of the sea were too much of an obstacle for everyone who climbed the fence of the pound and evaded all security checkpoints and alarms.

One of the former Alcatraz prisoners was answering questions and selling his book where he narrates stories of his time in the prison.

I bid farewell to San Francisco and boarded the Greyhound bus to Los Angeles.

Nine hours drive on a legendary bus surrounded by people who cannot afford to travel by car or fly, is a unique experience that no adventurer should miss. Mostly Latinos and black passengers were eating all the time, drinking huge amounts of Coca Cola, cursing and yelling at each other throughout the journey. The absence of music or television on the bus would render the journey rather boring and very formal without the passengers show.

Los Angeles is disproportionately larger than San Francisco. The city feels even bigger considering extremely inefficient and poorly organized public transport. Due to pressure and influence by car manufacturers, the construction of the subway was abandoned in the 1960s. Buses run relatively infrequently; the distances between one part of the city and the other are huge. I dedicated a significant amount of time to commuting via public transportation from location A to location B.

For the first few days, I was accommodated in a youth hostel on one of the most famous streets – Hollywood Boulevard, where the stars of film actors, singers or celebrities are inscribed in the sidewalk. It used to be one of the most beautiful areas of Los Angeles, but today, it provides a refugee for many homeless, beggars and weird people.

One of the famous American film directors got her own star on the Walk of Fame, but she was unknown to me. At the short ceremony, I pushed my way to the front to get a close-up look at the guests of honor Sharon Stone and Michael Douglas, who got far more attention than the honored director.

I moved to Venice Beach to properly enjoy the Ocean Front Walk and water activities. The area is vibrant, featuring Hare Krishna parade and the renowned section frequented by bodybuilders, overweighed Americans alongside tourists who are drawn to the sight of scantily dressed women on roller skates and athletic joggers. Street artists more or less successfully entertain passers-by with a sole purpose to collect tips, while the artists draw, perform or play all kinds of instruments.

The most memorable was the smiling man on roller skates, who convinced more with his colorful appearance than through his guitar playing.

Two bizarre situations happened on Venice Beach.

A German girl, sharing dormitory with me, came to Los Angeles to meet her dream actor in order to give him a personal gift. Her only mission during four weeks holidays was to find Richard Dean Anderson, the lead actor in the television series MacGyver that was popular in the eighties.

Yes, more than 10 years ago!

She was hopping to hug him, kiss him or invite him for dinner. She expressed significant disappointment in me due to my lack of knowledge regarding Richard Dean Anderson.

The other funny thing happened when I was sunbathing on a beach next to a topless girl who was roughed up by a policeman on horseback.

“What’s going on with you miss! Don’t you know you’re in Los Angeles? Stop showing off your breasts in a vulgar manner immediately and cover them if you don’t want me to write you the sentence.”

So much about democracy and freedom in America!

My crucial mission in Los Angeles was to purchase a motorbike that would take me through national parks on the West Coast, Mexico, Central America and all the way to Argentina. I was unsuccessfully trying to make a deal in Philadelphia and San Francisco, but somehow LA was the last stop on my itinerary, where I was still able to travel around on a public transport. I wouldn’t be able to visit national parks on public transport.

I was buying magazines with sale adds, visiting second hand bikes stores, talking to people and bikers. Due to my limited budget, the offer was not matching my expectations. The maximum engine power I was able afford didn’t surpass 250cc.

The owner of Marine Suzuky store, Berry, was a skilled negotiator, much like myself. 2,400US$ was much more than I was willing to pay before staring my Transamerica expedition, but still much less than any other motorbikes of similar characteristics.

“I need a luggage carrier, kidney belt, rain clothing and a strong lock for free if I buy Suzuki 250DR at your store!” was my request, after realizing that he wouldn’t drop the price for the bike.

“I don’t understand the world free!” was a nasty answer from Berry.

After five minutes of hard negotiations I started to walk away, when Beery called me:

“Rok, come back. It is OK. The deal is done. Tomorrow the bike will be ready. You bloody communist!”

I didn’t care for the compliment as long as my demand was fulfilled.

The next day we closed the deal, I registered the motorbike, acquired insurance and fixed a plate to the rear fender. My last slices of one-dollar pizza gave me enough energy to drive out to San Diego Highway heading to Los Alamitos.

It was my introductory ride on a real motorbike and the first time on five-lanes highway. I thought that I would be blown away by strong winds. Cars were overtaking me from all sides and from time to time long trucks were pushing me to the edge of the roadway.

I couldn’t believe that faster vehicles are able to cause so strong headwinds. As soon as I increased the speed over 90 kilometers per hour, I started to be tossed left and right.

Preoccupied with safety, I was driving mostly on the extreme right side, consequently ended up in the wrong lane at the wrong moment and missed the right exit.

The initial lessons for beginners proved to be challenging; however, I quickly oriented myself towards the correct path where the acquaintances reside. My plan was to leave part of my luggage before continuing toward north. It was already 4:40pm, so the Bauer couple kindly invited me to spend the night in their luxury house, before continuing the next morning.

Of course, I didn’t mind. After two months in dormitories, tents and rundown guesthouses I was thrilled of luxury that a private, clean room offered me. First, I refreshed myself in the pool and later enjoyed a delicious dinner.

After enjoying a hearty breakfast at a local restaurant, the following morning, I embarked on my journey to Sequoia National Park aboard my Suzuki motorbike, carrying a small travel bag, tent, sleeping bag, and backpack slung over my shoulder.

An almost brand-new adventure awaited me. The vast unpopulated area and the most beautiful national parks replaced urban areas, while freedom on a motorbike gave me flexibility to plan my activities in different time frame.

The first national park I visited was Sequoia National Park.

After all day drive, I reached the camp area in the evening. The cost for a single night was set at 12 US dollars, regardless of the number of individuals, tents, or vehicles. The space was enormous, big enough to accommodate an oversized American cars or motorhome. When asking some other people to share the space, they only looked strange at me, denying my proposal.

Due to the closure of the reception, I was required to simply place cash into an envelope, inscribe my information on it, and deposit it in a specified location. The regular price of 12US$ was high, the only alternatives were for disabled people or war veterans. I filled up the envelope with 6 bucks, opted for war veteran discount and never had problems with that.

I don’t think it is fair that a motorbike and a small tent pays the same fee as a super luxury camp trailers hosting 6 people.

Impressed by the tallest trees in the world I joined two hours walk with a ranger next day. During free session we walked around the forest, engaged to captivating explanations and facts about these marvelous trees.

• Sequoia wood possesses distinct characteristics that set it apart. Primarily, it is quite soft and delicate, rendering it nearly impractical for processing purposes. Additionally, it contains a chemical compound that provides protection against blemishes. No wonder why the widespread destruction of sequoia trees ceased in the 19^th
• The roots are so shallow that sequoias reach only a few meters below the earth’s surface. The primary threat to an aged or towering tree is the potential for it to be uprooted by strong winds or subjected to degradation through erosion.
• Even fire is not a great enemy of sequoia due to the strength of the tree and its low flammability. The ability of a tree to regenerate in such a way that when the top of the tree is broken off the trunk receives enough nutrients to regenerate and grow again. the approach to wildfires shifted from immediate suppression to a more nuanced understanding of their ecological benefits. It became evident that controlled burns could enhance soil quality by providing essential nutrients, thereby promoting faster plant growth. Consequently, park rangers began to intentionally set small, controlled fires within designated areas that they could effectively monitor.

One of the most outstanding landmarks in the area is the General Sherman Tree, the world’s largest tree, measured by volume. It stands 83 meters tall, and it measures over 11 meters in diameter at the base.

Later I also visited The General Grant Tree, located in Kings Canyon National Park. It is the second largest giant sequoia tree in the world and is situated just an hour’s drive from the General Sherman Tree. The sequoia reaches a height of 81 meters and has a base width of nearly 9 meters, with an estimated age of around 1,650 years. Walking slowly around the tree with the most exquisite crown and capturing photographs took me a total of 40 minutes.

I continued driving through the Kings Canyon to Yosemite National Park. Due to the official camping site being fully occupied, I resorted to wild camping by the stream on the first night, only to awaken the following morning fully covered in mosquitoes.

The next day I was able to locate a spot among the tents of numerous climbers who engaged in mountaineering during the day and indulged in marijuana smoke in the evening. I resolutely refused all the offered joints, preferring to cook a hearty dinner on my small stove. With a mini tent, motorcycle, cooktop and limited luggage, I called the attention much more than bus-sized motorhomes or monster trucks with extra-large tents.

At a height of more than 739 meters the Yosemite Falls is one of the tallest waterfalls in North America.

Formed by three individual cascades, it can be seen from a range of distances. Another landmark, El Capitan, is a vertical rock formation, iconic granite wall, famous as ultimate challenge for rock climbers’ adventurers. Granite monolith is 914 meters high from base to.

I am not a climber nor fit enough to conquer El Capitan, but my new buddy Rob needed three days to achieve it. Late in the night a group of friends seated around small bonfire and listened to his stories about El Capitan and other mountains.

Rob illustrated his achievements, which culminated in climbing a glacier where he slipped and tumbled down the valley at 30, 50, 80, even 100 miles per hour, until he finally came to a stop in the snow. During the fall all his clothes, half of his buttocks, most of the skin from his legs and many other things were torn off.

When he showed us his bum, it didn’t look like it was half missing, but he mentioned that the doctors did a really good job of putting him back together.

I continued my journey towards Death Valley traversing California’s highest elevation highway pass, Tioga Pass, which stands at over 3,000 meters above sea level. Breathtaking views, pristine lakes and sweeping across enchanting Tuolumne Meadows area is accessible only in the summer months.

In a few hours, I descended from an altitude of 3,000 meters to the sea level. The temperatures were slowly rising until the heat became unbearable. It was almost dark by the time I reached the first and only camping area in Death Valley. There were only three trailers in the camp, no tents at all. According to the employee at the information center, it was too hot to sleep in a tent:

“Nobody would camp in a tent in the summer!”

“Well, I am very happy to do it at 8 US$ per night,” I challenged his theory, brave enough to afford a really warm shower (cold water was not available, of course).

I set up my tent, but never used it to sleep. I laid down on a wooden table only in my underwear, watching the stars on the sky and listening to the cats late into the night before falling asleep.

I woke up the next morning even before the sunrise. I was headed to Las Vegas, making stops at various points of interest in Death Valley.

Badwater is the lowest point in the USA: 86 meters below the sea level, where the air temperature rises up to 62°C during the day. A small spring-fed pool of undrinkable salty water (bad water) next to the road gave this inhospitable area the name.

In the immediate vicinity is the Devil’s golf course, a field of salt, made up of large salt formations that jut out of the barren landscape, extending as far as the eye can perceive. Despite the fact that Americans often exaggerate with the names, everything related to Death Valley is real.

The drive from Badwater area to the park exit was especially terrifying, since there was no petrol station, store, water or house along the road for 100km.

I met only ten vehicles in this section and we all greeted each other.

Las Vegas – the brightest spot on Earth in the middle of the desert, known for gambling, shopping, fine dining, entertainment, nightlife and the tallest observation tower in the USA – the Stratosphere. For me as a backpacker, the most gratifying perk is cheap accommodation and all you can eat restaurants, where for a few dollars you can consume as much as your heart desires and your stomach digests.

Strolling along the main avenue, known as the Strip, is a captivating spectacle. There are countless hotels with casinos, but each one offers something special: Julius Caesar, Sahara, Luxor, MGM and Treasure Island are just some of the most famous establishments. In front of the Treasure Island Hotel I watched The Treasure Island Pirate Show, a real battle between two life-size pirate ships, including theatrics and the show’s pirate pyrotechnics.

I do not consider myself a gambler and do not have disposable income for this kind of entertainment; still, I had planned to spend 10 US dollars at casinos. I walked around the Strip until choosing two of the most attracting casinos, where I changed cash to slots. Casino slots are made for everyone; it’s possible to play for as little as 5 cents.

I’ve seen people losing over 1,000 US$ in a minute, smiling and having fun. I only wish that I could entertain them instead, charging a couple of thousand dollars to extend my trip to the most southern part of the continent.

Following a three-day stay in the world’s largest city that was created in the 20^th century, I continued driving through Zion National Park to Bryce Canyon. I experienced my first encounter with rain while riding a motorbike, resulting in my arrival at the youth hotel completely soaked and suffering from hypothermia.

Bryce Canyon National Park is one of the most outstanding examples of what mother nature can do over the course of millions of years.

Stone pillars of various shapes and sizes rise vertically, changing colors during the day at different angles of the sun’s rays. Hoodoos – tall, thin spire of rock formed by erosion stand up as red, orange, and white colors stalactites around giant natural amphitheaters.

The most beautiful view is from the Inspiration point, where I also waited for the sunset. At 2,500 meters above sea level it was cold: staying in a youth hostel was a pleasant change to camping out during cold nights.

Capitol Reef National Park is an extensive ridge that stretches for several kilometers, serving as a hidden gem characterized by its cliffs, canyons, domes, and natural bridges. Its distinctive red-brown coloration adds to its uniqueness.

During a short walk, I met an elderly man who lives in a small town in southern Arizona, where the average age of the residents is 73 years. Chuck taught me about these small towns, where senior people move after retirement. Offering infrastructure, services and activities targeted to elder generations they are becoming more and more popular.

In the afternoon, I continued driving to the city of Moab, which would be the starting point for exploring the surrounding parks. The sun was almost completely hidden behind the horizon, when I stopped at the edge of the road to take another picture. I was careless when parking my bike and it fell on the ground. After a long struggle, I managed to put the bike on the stand again, but it wouldn’t kick off. It required more than five minutes of persistent kicking before the engine finally restarted.

I met several travelers in Moab, but the most interesting is the story of Arnoux from France. After about an hour of talking, we realized that we had already met in Los Angeles, where we tried to capture Sharon Stone in the camera lens. Arnoux kept yelling:

“Sharon, Sharon, look at me!” while his colleague held him on his shoulders.

I remember hearing his voice as well, but I had never talked to him before.

The park is home to over 2,000 natural sandstone arches, in addition to a diverse array of distinctive geological resources and formations. The Arches National Park contains the highest density of natural arches in the world.

I experienced one of the most beautiful sunsets admiring the most famous arch in the park, the Delicate Arch.

Over the years, the relentless action of wind and water has eroded the sandstone, leaving behind only a 16-meter-high rock formation in the shape of an arch.

Just prior to sunset, as the arch radiated a stunning red-brown hue, we were all prepared to capture photos. Unexpectedly, two Japanese tourists chose to position themselves directly beneath the Delicate Arch, disrupting the perfect scene. We began to whistle and shout for them to step aside. Eventually, they complied, receiving enthusiastic applause from approximately 50 observers of the sunset.

The Grand Canyon stands as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, offering breathtaking vistas. The persistent power of the Colorado River has shaped the Grand Canyon, which extends more than 446 kilometers in length, reaches a width of 29 kilometers, and plunges to depths exceeding one mile.

Nearly two billion years of Earth’s geological history have been exposed until the Colorado River and its tributaries started to cut their channels through layer after layer of rock 70 million years. Being only the third deepest canyon in the world, I had no plans to descent to the banks of Colorado river, but rather observe it from various view points along the ridge.

Around midday I already had my tent set up in the Grand Canyon camp and then drove to one of the viewpoints.

What a scenery! Everywhere you look – deep abyss; only somewhere far on the other side rises the North Rim, 25 kilometers away.

As clouds started to gather in the sky, I preferred to head to the local store. After I collected a basket full of canned food, I remembered that I had no cooking utensils any more. I put everything back in its place and gathered some vegetables, fruit, cheese and bread.

Late in the afternoon the sky finally cleared up. I drove for an hour to the viewpoint, from where I watched the sunset with many romantic couples. Admittedly, it wasn’t as nice as in Arches Park, but the visibility was brilliant. Driving back to the campground was not pleasant at all. Due to the considerable altitude and afternoon rain, the temperature dropped well below 20°C and caught me off guard. I was chilled to the bone by the time I set foot on the campground.

The next morning, I woke up around 7:00am to reach the central viewpoint before the crowds of tourists arrived. The Grand Canyon is one of the most visited natural parks in the USA, easily accessible in only 4 hours driving from Las Vegas.

It wasn’t until I ended up at the museum in visitor center that I realized how big this national park really is. The Colorado River, rolling at the bottom of the canyon, looks like a small stream from the top, but in reality, it takes a lot of courage and knowledge to navigate down its rapids on a rafting boat.

There is roughly 2 kilometers height difference from the top of the precipice to the river’s bank, which means a full day’s walk of 20 kilometers.

I also had the opportunity to explore Canyonlands National Park, a remarkable area shaped by the Colorado River, which has carved out a stunning landscape characterized by canyons, mesas, and buttes that define the rugged beauty of southern Utah’s desert. Each distinct section of the park is marked its own unique features.

A particularly noteworthy location for witnessing the sunset is Mesa Arch, regarded as one of nature’s extraordinary creations. It is a breathtaking site that seems almost surreal until illuminated by the soft glow of the early morning sun.

During two days stopover in San Diego I visited one of the most famous zoos in the world, housing 4,000 animals of more than 650 species in the concept of open-air, cageless exhibits that recreate natural animal habitats.

I decided to cross the Mexican border at El Paso, Texas, as it is considerably nearer to Mexico City than Tijuana. This decision allowed me to avoid the costly tolls associated with the Mexican highways.

While traversing Arizona, I stopped at the Biosphere 2 research facility, which was initially designed to showcase the feasibility of closed ecological systems for sustaining human life in outer space as an alternative to Earth’s biosphere.

I reached Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument precisely at noon. The temperature was undoubtedly approaching 45 degrees Celsius, possibly even 50; understandably, I was the sole visitor in the area.

Even park rangers avoided the heat at the entry gate, retreating to the air-conditioned central building. Cacti were visible in every direction, varying in size and shape – some large, others small; some plump, while others were slender; some stood tall, and others appeared withered, showcasing a spectrum of green and dry hues.

I never imagined that a cactus could reach such enormous heights. According to my estimates, the largest giant was about 8 meters tall.

The Indians knew how to use cacti primarily for medicinal purposes, for various potions and ointments. Today, their importance in the United States is negligible. Fortunately, the Mexicans are the leaders of this industry, skillfully transforming cactus juice into the renowned beverages of tequila and mezcal. The leaves of a certain type of cactus are an integral part of various rituals or sessions that allow a glimpse into the beyond.

Tucson, alongside Phoenix, ranks among the fastest growing cities in the United States. In my view, it represents yet another contemporary American metropolis, characterized by meticulous planning and flawless execution. An urban area in the middle of desert, without high skyscrapers nor people on the streets.

Modern Americans don’t even think of walking around anymore. Why bother when there is a car that can take you to the post office 300 meters away? Even though sidewalks are in perfect conditions I hardly ever see pedestrians walking outside of downtown area. Recreational parks are arranged for this purpose.

I checked into a youth hotel situated in the central area of Tucson. It was surprisingly inexpensive for the standards that the room on the first floor was offering. I was tired after driving, walking and sightseeing, exposed to summer heat all day.

At 10:00pm I realized why my luxury was so cheap. There was a night club on the ground floor and speakers were installed right under my bed.

The whole room started to shake slightly and I had no choice but to accept that the night would be sleepless.

After four months I ended my trip around USA and set off to Mexico with great expectations for new adventures.