Eastern and Central USA

Visited: June 1996

Duration of visit: 35 days

Estimated reading time: 12 minutes

• An extraordinary mix of skyscrapers, cultures, poverty and richness in New York City.
• Observing the sunset from World Trade Center.
• Thriving on a limited budget while mingling with people from all over the world.
• The tension upon arriving in Washington DC, fueled by the anxiety of encountering danger at every turn.
• Coast to coast drive from Washington D.C. to Portland, OR by my dream car for pennies.
• Exploring dramatic canyons, alpine rivers, lush forests, hot springs and gushing geysers in Yellowstone National Park.

The Land of Opportunity, where I started my first Big Tour and kept coming back to explore more and more, is one of the best countries to visit for me, but not to live.

I am separating my exploration of US in three sections, that occurred in different phases, periods and circumstances:

• as a backpacker crossing the US on a car and motorbike (1996),
• working in Grenville, SC, for a Slovenian corporation (2005-06) and
• a couple of short trips to specific areas (Hawaii, Florida) in 2014 and 2017.

In this article I describe the first half of my backpacking experience around US – Eastern and Central USA, which was part of the American Big Tour in 1996 – Eastern and Central USA: discovering vibrant New York City, celebrating 4^th of July in Washington DC, coast to coast drive for pennies, exploring the Yellowstone National park.

More articles about the USA adventures are available here:

After many months of preparation, the long-awaited moment for a flight to the other side of the Atlantic finally come, and thus the beginning of my journey around the world. I wanted to travel on a motorbike, but I was aware from day one that this was practically impossible. The main obstacle would be the bureaucratic problems at the borders of the Central and South American countries, as well as impossible road conditions during rainy season. My limited budget presented a significant barrier.

In June 1996, I flew on a one-way ticket aboard an Alitalia flight from Trieste, with a stopover in Rome, to New York’s JFK Airport. New York City did not greet me with glamour, perhaps not even kindly. It was already dusk, raining and the information center, which would provide me the most basic information, was already closed. I was fortunate to encounter a German woman who converted to a New Yorker, and together we traveled on the subway toward the city center.

The youth hostel where I booked the first night in advance, was in a desperate condition, but I was too tired to look for any other options late in the evening. I fell asleep on the dirty sheets from previous guest.

The next morning, I thanked my hosts for hospitality and moved on to the cheapest hostel in Manhattan. I paid merely 12US$ for a bed in a dormitory with number of cockroaches included in the price. I was shocked when finding out how behind all glamour, impressive building, richness and prestige of New York City people could live in such a neglected place with cockroaches, dirty plates, leftovers from previous guests and filthy sheets.

I had never seen anything like that while backpacking around Europe.

In general, the atmosphere was cool; I met many other travelers, including two Slovenians who were targeting Camp America. I got along especially well with a Malaysian guy, Jason. We explored Manhattan together for a few days and at the end, I promised him to visit his homeland in a year, if my plan goes well.

A spent a week wondering around New York City, visiting the most important sights: from the World Trade Center, the New York Stock Exchange, to China Town and the Statue of Liberty.

If I had to describe New York City in a few words, this would be the way:

Crowds of people and cars, moving fast around skyscrapers of unimaginable heights often resulting in neck discomfort for pedestrians.

I walked over 80 blocks per day, ate in cheap restaurants or at street vendors mostly in Chinatown and enjoyed the perfect summer weather in the Central Park, nearby my guesthouse. I quickly learned that New York City is much more than only about museums, galleries, skyscrapers and Broadway shows.

I really appreciated the atmosphere, variety of eccentric people performing, being dressed in an alternative way or gathering together a group of devotees trying to convince them about alternative life options. Especially Sundays in the Central Park are excellent place for people watching. I spotted baseball enthusiasts, many young and old skateboarders, runners, cyclists or young families with babies in strollers.

Statue of Liberty is one of the most iconic and symbolic monuments of New York City, located south of Manhattan, on Liberty Island. Made in Paris by the French sculptor Bartholdi in collaboration with Gustave Eiffel, it was a gift from France on the centenary of American independence, inaugurated in 1886. It was erected at the entrance to New York Harbor to welcome millions of new immigrants to the United States.

Instead of taking expensive tourist boats to the Ellis Island, I jumped on a ferry connecting Manhattan with New Jersey. The ticket price of 0.50 US$ enabled me to take good photos and appreciate lower Manhattan from the best perspective.

I stood on the platform at the junction of Broadway, Seventh Avenue, and 42^nd Street, looking around at the glowing billboards, posters and shiny buildings, thinking about how far I am from my family, friends and homeland. Beautiful, amazing, I’ve always dreamed of it. Nevertheless, the homesickness of the first days was ravaging me inside, and in every difficult situation, I doubted whether I would be able to travel all the way to the south of the continent.

I was surrounded by a set of large screens and illuminated signs at Times Square, the famous red stairs, prestigious stores and some museums that were too expensive for my pocket.

An icon of New York City between 1973 and 2011, the original World Trade Center was a symbol of globalization and the economic prosperity of the United States. The main towers were the tallest buildings in the world, when they were built up to 110^th floor (415 and 417 meters).

On windy days, each tower could sway up to almost 30 centimeters side to side. There were 198 elevators to attend 430 businesses from 28 different countries. The buildings were finished by 1973, along with four of the other World Trade Center buildings, only 5 years after the construction started.

I devoted the entire afternoon to the WTC.

The super-fast elevator raised me up to the 107^th floor in only 58 seconds. I was allowed to stay on the top floor as long as I wanted. The view of the surrounding parts of Manhattan, Queens, Brooklyn and Harlem was excellent in sunny weather and absolutely worth the 8.00 US$ entrance fee. The sun was slowly hiding behind the horizon, the first lights turned on, the Brooklyn Bridge came alive in all its glory.

I tested my new camera in a night environment, observing relatively rare visitors and spotting famous buildings below me: Statue of Liberty, the Empire State Building, Rockefeller Center, Broadway Street, etc.

Brooklyn bridge was the longest suspension bridge in the world at the time of its opening, with a main span of 486 meters, connecting Manhattan and Brooklyn. I walked the bridge in an hour and a half, stopping on the way to appreciate advance engineering from the 19^th century. Not very impressed exploring the neighborhood of downtown Brooklyn, I very quickly jumped on a bus back to Manhattan.

As a recent graduate of the Faculty of Economics, I had to confirm the theory in practice, so I decided to visit the New York Stock Exchange. The New York Stock Exchange is the largest and most famous stock exchange in the world, but it is also probably the most difficult to photograph. It is surrounded by other, taller buildings. An event took place on the street in front of the building, where volunteers distributed complimentary bagels, much to my delight.

One of the most bizarre events happened in the youth hostel. One evening a Japanese visitor arrived straight from JFK airport to my dormitory room. In an introductory conversation he complained how expensive taxis are in USA:

“I paid 250 US$ for a ride from the airport to this hostel!”.

I couldn’t help to laugh like crazy and explained him that he must have been cheated. The price should be 40 to 50 US$ in a limousine, not a simple cab. He was visiting New York City for 9 days and he can probably afford much more. But still, 250 US$ was my budget for a week of staying in the city with all expenses included. I find it even more incomprehensible, why he was staying in such rundown hostel, for only 12 US$ per night.

My original plan was to purchase a motorbike in New York, starting my overland trip on a proper vehicle. Most people advised me against buying a motorcycle in one of the most expensive cities to live in the US. Furthermore, that the costs of motorcycles greatly surpass my financial limitations and aspirations, thereby I was postponing the youthful wish about motorcycling in the USA.

I proceeded on my journey via Greyhound bus to Washington D.C., the capital city of the United States.

According to official statistics, Washington D.C. ranks second in the number of murders per capita in the country.

I was really scared after getting off the bus at main bus terminal and boarding underground train. Holding my big knife in a small bag that was hanging over my chests, I was ready to be attacked at any time. I spotted suspicious faces at every corner.

I didn’t want to end my round-the-world trip in the capital of the first country I was visiting.

It turned out that unfavorable statistics is actually an official bureaucratic figure, while the real situation is completely different. The central area around the National Mall, home to iconic monuments including the Lincoln Memorial and the Washington Monument, many museums and US Capitol, is one of the safest areas in America. Numerous police officers and security personnel provide a feeling of safety, even during nighttime hours. Since this was predominantly an area of my activities, my panic was exaggerated.

Designed by Pierre-Charles L’Enfant at the request of George Washington, Washington D.C. is located on a piece of land specifically set aside after the Revolutionary War to keep the federal government from being in a single state. The White House, the United States Capitol, the Washington Monument, as well as various museums and memorials, are strategically arranged along the park-like expanse of the National Mall.

I walked up and down on numerous occasions during the day and at night when celebrations around 4^th of July were taking place.

Located on the eastern side of The National Mall, the seat of the House of Representatives and the Senate is recognized around the world as a symbol of the United States. The huge dome of the Capitol, based on the dome of St. Peter’s in Rome, stands out above all other Washington buildings.

On the western end stands the Lincoln Memorial, separated from the Washington Monument by the reflecting pool. At its center is almost 6 meters tall marble statue of President Abraham Lincoln in seating and pensive position, surrounded by 36 columns, one for each of the states that existed at the time of Lincoln’s death.

Since its completion in 1922, the Lincoln Memorial has been the scene of a number of historic events. The most memorable speech from the memorial steps was delivered by Martin Luther King Jr. in 1963, with his famous: “I have a dream…“.

The official residence of the President of the United States – The White House, was originally built in 1792, and after being burned down by British forces in 1814, it was rebuilt in 1818. A group of protesters who practically live in front of the White House, called more of my attention than the enclosed mansion, off the limits to normal people. They protest against usage and manufacturing of weapons, collecting signatures and gossip to the visitors. Some representatives of non-governmental organizations adopted the protests as their way of life, spending decades fighting for the cause.

The 170 meters high white shaft of the Washington Monument is especially beautiful when mirrored in the long reflecting pool at its foot. The construction of the monument experienced several interruptions, resulting in distinct phases that are evident through three variations in the color of the facing stones.

My favorite museum in the area is the National Air and Space Museum, with a collection of history-making air and spacecraft that includes the original 1903 Wright Brothers Flyer, the first plane to fly solo across the Atlantic Ocean and Apollo 11 command module, part of the first manned lunar landing mission.

In general museums in USA are the best in the world and usually free of charge.

Due to my inability to locate a suitable motorcycle in Washington D.C., I opted to relocate to the West Coast using an alternative mode of transportation. The best choice turned out to be the so called Driveaway service, which works according to the following principle:

Driveaway companies facilitate the transportation of vehicles for car owners who pay to have their vehicles moved from one location to another, often across considerable distances. An assigned driver picks up a car in the agency and deliver it to the designated destination within a specified timeframe and mileage limit.

The driver only covers the cost of petrol and possible penalties in case of speeding, mileage or any other form of traffic offence.

I selected a compact Honda Civic destined for Portland, Oregon with time limit of 10 days and a maximum allowed mileage of 5,300 kilometers – 800 kilometers more than a direct trip would require. It meant a lot of driving, but the journey took me past some of the most stunning national parks.

The initial two days were entirely devoted to driving, during which I successfully covered a total distance of 2,000 kilometers. Most highways in America are free, straight and wide. Speed ​​limits are incomprehensibly low, usually only 100 kilometers per hour. The big majority of drivers diligently respect the rules, set the cruiser to the speed limit and use the particular line.

The first real stop was Badlands National Park in South Dakota. After two days of driving through deserted countryside, mountain range of all possible red tones appeared like a miracle in front of me; distinct, multicolored rock layers forming dramatic landscapes span from steep canyons to towering spires. The sunset was especially beautiful and camping in my tent a much more pleasant experience than sharing stinky dormitory in New York City.

Yellowstone National Park was one of the highlights of during my time in the United States. There is no coincidence that Yellowstone was the first national park in the country and it is also widely held to be the first national park in the world.

I spent 5 days exploring dramatic canyons, alpine rivers, lush forests, hot springs and gushing geysers; including its most famous, the Old Faithful.

The park is also home to hundreds of animal species, including bears, wolves, bison, elk and antelope. It was remarkable to meet some of these animals in the natural environment. Yellowstone is the only place in the United States where bison have lived continuously since prehistoric times. I found them extremely peaceful while walking among convoy of cars that stopped in order create a passage for them.

Some of the most important and influential animals in the park are elks. Their presence has played a crucial role in shaping the park’s ecosystem, influencing vegetation growth and determining the materials utilized for dam construction. Yellowstone is also home to two species of bears: grizzly bears and black bears. I spotted a black bear just of the main road, walking lazily as if it was used to many passers-by driving.

Nights were getting chilly, camping was not so much fun anymore. My sleeping bag wasn’t resistant to low temperatures. Even putting on all available clothes, I was still cold, desperately expecting for the sunrise every morning.

Craters of the Moon National Monument, located in close proximity to Yellowstone National Park, remains significantly less frequented by visitors. A prominent aspect of this geological marvel is the Great Rift, which showcases an exceptionally well-preserved volcanic terrain.

The landscape is characterized by exposed fissures, expansive lava fields, intricate lava tubes, craters, and cinder cones, collectively creating a uniquely captivating volcanic expanse on the Snake River Plain in central Idaho.

In a completely different environment, I was feeling as walking on another planet; everything is black, remnants of lava and rocks reminiscent of the surface of the Moon. The meticulous park founders also made the rest of the surrounding buildings in the same style to match the black stones. There are practically no animals and plants are also rare.

Read more about the continuation of The Big Trip – Western USA.