Hawaii Islands hopping

Visited: November 2014

Duration of visit: 10 days

Estimated reading time: 9 minutes

• From amazing surfing culture to picturesque volcanic landscape.
• Mauna Kea – a dormant shield volcano, representing the highest point on Hawaii.
• Standing in the quietest place on the planet in Haleakala Volcano crater.
• Venturing onto a stand-up paddleboard on Waikiki Beach.
• Shopping a chain of convenience stores headquartered in Honolulu – ABC Store.
• Commemorating Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor at USS Arizona Memorial.

The Land of Opportunity, where I started my first Big Tour and kept coming back to explore more and more, is one of the best countries to visit for me, but not to live.

I am separating my exploration of US in three sections, that occurred in different phases, periods and circumstances:

• as a backpacker crossing the US on a car and motorbike (1996),
• working in Grenville, SC, for a Slovenian corporation (2005-06) and
• a couple of short trips to specific areas (Hawaii, Florida) in 2014 and 2017.

In this article I describe my experience of visiting Hawaii Islands in 2014: picturesque volcanic landscape, amazing surfing culture, food trucks scene and The Pearl Harbor. More articles about the USA adventures are available here:

The trip to Hawaii in 2014 stands out as one of the most extraordinary experiences I have encountered in the United States. So far from the mainland, so unique, so different and special, offering a mixture of amazing surfing culture, picturesque volcanic landscape and Japanese influence, which have created an easy-going society, coexisting with the nature and enjoying simple things on a daily basis.

I selected three islands to explore the diverse offerings of Hawaii and to visit some of its most notable landmarks: The Big Island, Maui, and Oahu. I organized all activities and aerial transportation between the island beforehand, utilizing a rented car to traverse the islands. I was travelling with my Panamanian partner.

My first stop was the Big Island. The largest among the eight Hawaiian Islands is renowned for its extraordinary natural beauty. Along the Kohala Coast, I discovered both black and white sand beaches, as well as the renowned 4-mile Onomea scenic drive, which is celebrated as the most picturesque route on the island.

A visit to the breathtaking Hawaii Volcanoes National Park was one of the highlights.

• The park features two active volcanoes: Kilauea, where visitors may occasionally witness flowing lava, and
• Mauna Loa, recognized as the largest active volcano in the world.

Other notable attractions include the petrified lava fields and the Thurston Lava Tube.

While the lava fields may initially seem unvaried, I found the landscape to be utterly captivating. The diverse shades of gray and black, along with the intriguing formations and the delicate, lightweight structure of the petrified lava, were particularly fascinating. I spent several hours traversing various lava fields, occasionally interrupted by the presence of bushes, trees, or small groves that are gradually taking root on the surface.

Halemaumau crater is famously known as the dwelling place of Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of volcanoes. Situated at the summit of Kīlauea, Halemaumau is renowned for its lake of molten lava, which appears and vanishes like an illusion, captivating both onlookers and scientists for over two centuries.

Prior to 1924, Halemaumau hosted an active lava lake for much of the time and experienced several eruptions throughout the 20^th century. Since 2008, the crater has once again contained an active lava lake, with its level typically fluctuating between 20 and 150 meters below the crater floor, although at times it has risen sufficiently to overflow onto the crater floor.

The crater is conveniently accessible from the Kīlauea Visitor Center. However, the weather posed a significant challenge during our visit, as we encountered persistent rain, low clouds, fog, and strong winds, which discouraged extensive exploration around the crater. Even during bad weather I made the effort to walk around the crater to observe a large amount of smoke and gases rising above the large open area.

Mauna Kea is classified as a dormant shield volcano, with its summit rising to an elevation of 4,207 meters above sea level, making it the tallest point in Hawaii.

This elevation is less than that of Mount Everest, which stands at 8,848 meters above sea level; however, some experts consider Mauna Kea to be the tallest mountain in the world when measured from its base on the ocean floor.

In Hawaiian culture, the peaks of the island of Hawaiʻi hold significant spiritual importance. Historically, an ancient law permitted only members of the high-ranking nobility to ascend these mountaintops.

Currently, the summit is accessible to the public, but it requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle to navigate the gravel road. Since we had rented a sedan and were not inclined to pay the high fees for organized tours, we opted to hitchhike from the point where the paved road ended at the base of the volcano.

It was not long before an American couple, traveling in a compact jeep, offered us a ride to the summit. Upon reaching the peak, we observed the observatory facilities and encountered several visitors who were battling strong winds and cold temperatures. The summit of Mauna Kea is regarded as one of the premier locations globally for astronomical observation, owing to its advantageous observing conditions.

As I exited the vehicle and made my way uphill, I experienced the effects of the high altitude, accompanied by a slight sense of dizziness. The wind was forceful, making it challenging to maintain walking to the right direction. Just before sunset, the breathtaking view of the barren landscape and the expansive vista of the island was truly remarkable.

Maui Island is a favorite destination for honeymooners, featuring a dormant volcano crater characterized by its arid landscape, sacred sites, and a tropical oasis adorned with waterfalls along the coastline.

The renowned scenic drive along the Road to Hana, which encompasses approximately 600 curves, over 50 bridges, and 60 cascading waterfalls within a span of less than 80 kilometers, is the most highlighted attraction. However, my most vivid memory is of a remarkable location atop the volcano.

Haleakala National Park encompasses the Haleakala Volcano, which reaches a summit of 3,048 meters above sea level, presenting a magical vantage point. Within the crater at the summit of this dormant volcano lies a realm of such tranquility that the ambient sounds are nearly at the threshold of human perception. The crater’s depth effectively shields it from the wind, and the barren terrain is largely free from the sounds of rustling plants or vocal wildlife.

I found myself alone amidst the stark desert stone landscape, with no signs of human or animal life in motion. As I surveyed my surroundings, I was captivated by the enchanting scenery and experienced an unusual sensation of profound silence enveloping my breath.

It is challenging to articulate the experience, but it felt as though I could hear my own body: the rhythm of my heartbeat, the cadence of my breathing, and the faintest movements.

Later, I sought additional information about the Haleakala Volcano crater and learned that it has been officially recognized as the quietest place on the planet through scientific measurement.

Oahu island ranks as the third largest of the Hawaiian Islands and is renowned as one of the most popular travel destinations. It presents a haven for active travelers, showcasing stunning natural landscapes, delightful culinary experiences, the lively capital of Honolulu, and, most importantly, the essence of the Aloha Spirit.

While tourists may perceive Aloha merely as a greeting, its true significance for the people of Hawaii extends far deeper. Aloha embodies love, energy, a vital life force, and a profound respect for the earth and all its inhabitants, encompassing expressions of gratitude, compassion, and humility.

My initial destination was the capital city. In Honolulu, I chose not to visit the well-known cultural, historical or architectural landmarks; instead, I immersed myself in the city’s atmosphere, which is more intimately connected to the ocean and the beach than in any other major urban area I have visited so far.

Waikiki Beach ranks among the most popular beaches globally, attracting over four million visitors annually.

It is considered one of the premier locations in Hawaii for learning to surf or paddle a canoe, thanks to its manageable yet persistent wave break.

The beach is characterized by its vibrant atmosphere, filled with numerous activities and individuals eager to engage with the ocean at any hour of the day.

We too succumbed to this tempting environment and ventured onto a stand-up paddleboard in our new swimwear, attempting paddle boarding for the first time. Initially, I struggled even with the smaller waves, tumbling into the warm water before quickly regaining my balance. Soon, as I observed the more experienced surfers, I found my rhythm and confidently navigated across the bay.

In Honolulu, I noticed the significant Japanese and broader Asian influences evident in culture, cuisine, and the physical characteristics of its residents.

Another particular point of interest was the prevalence of the ABC Store, a chain of convenience stores headquartered in Honolulu. This chain operates 73 locations, with 58 situated within Hawaii. The Waikiki area alone boasts 37 stores within a one-mile radius, with a particularly striking example of saturation found at a sole intersection, where four ABC Stores are located at that very crossing.

While I do not intend to suggest that the ABC Store lacks merit, it is remarkable how they have established a near-monopoly in downtown Honolulu, effectively diminishing all competition.

The North Shore of Oahu Island, extending approximately 40 kilometers, is a paradise characterized by its numerous beaches, informal restaurants and relaxed ambience. There is no better experience than renting a convertible Mustang, lowering the roof, and leisurely exploring the island without a specific plan.

During the summer months, these beaches are ideal for swimming and snorkeling; however, in winter, they transform into a hub for surf competitions, featuring waves exceeding six meters.

My experiences in Oahu revealed that various types of waves attract distinct activities, each suited to specific forms of wave riding, including standup paddle boarding, longboarding, bodyboarding, shortboarding, windsurfing and kite surfing. Typically, I observed that different surfing styles were not commonly practiced on the same beach.

The food truck culture in Oahu is as lively and varied as the island itself.

From the vibrant streets of Honolulu to the serene beaches of the North Shore, food trucks provide a unique and delectable experience of island life.

These mobile vendors offer a wide array of options, ranging from freshly caught seafood to beloved local specialties such as poke bowls and shaved ice.

The origins of Oahu’s food truck scene date back to the 1970s, when innovative locals began selling plate lunches from roadside vehicles. Today, these food trucks have become a vital component of the island’s culinary landscape, reflecting Hawaii’s rich cultural diversity and showcasing the evolution of local cuisine.

During my visit to several renowned food trucks on the North Shore, I enjoyed large shrimp prepared with various sauces and fresh fish accompanied by a special poke sauce. While the prices were comparable to those of restaurants, the relaxed ambiance and the sense of freedom that I cherished on the island of Oahu were nearly as valuable as the delicious food itself.

The attack on Pearl Harbor was an unforeseen military operation carried out by the Imperial Japanese Navy Air Service targeting the American naval base located in Honolulu, occurring just before 8:00am on December 7, 1941.

The operation involved 353 Imperial Japanese aircraft, which were deployed in two waves from six aircraft carriers. Among the eight United States Navy battleships present, all sustained damage, with four ultimately sinking. Additionally, over 180 US aircraft were destroyed during the attack. The tragic toll included 2,393 American fatalities and 1,178 injuries, marking it as the most lethal incident recorded in Hawaii’s history.

Japan aimed to significantly weaken the US fleet through this assault, thereby gaining a strategic advantage in the Pacific and Southeast Asia.

This event decisively ended the discourse surrounding American involvement in both the Pacific and European fronts of World War II, leading to Congress’s declaration of war against Imperial Japan the following day.

I had the opportunity to visit the USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor in Honolulu, which serves as the final resting place for 1,102 of the 1,177 sailors and Marines who perished on the USS Arizona during the attack, while also honoring the memory of that fateful day. The memorial is accessible solely by boat and is positioned above the sunken hull of the battleship without making contact.