India

Visited: February – March 2000

Duration of visit: 40 days

Capital city: Delhi

Population: 1,057 million (2000)

Estimated reading time: 32 minutes

• Tasty food, inexpensive travelling and friendly people in Calcutta.
• Visiting multiple Buddhist temples in Bodh Gaya.
• Navigating Ganges River and observing a daily ritual of bathing in Varanasi.
• McLeod Ganj: in search of Dalai Lama in Buddhist retreat under Himalaya.
• Camel trip in Rajasthan introduces me to remote villages, magic desert and simplicity of daily tasks.
• Friendly reception of Sikh pilgrims at the Golden Temple in Amritsar.
• Shopping in Delhi, before returning home after ending 15-month Big Asian Tour.

India was part of my Big Asian Tour from Australia, through Southeast Asia and China to India. During this 15-months long trip I visited most of the countries in the region and spent almost a month and a half travelling around India, before returning home completely out of money, but rich in experiences.

Before my trip to India, many travelers warned me that Indians could be rather unfriendly, if not aggressive and intrusive. However, during the first week, I experienced the complete opposite. Everyone I’ve met has been incredibly friendly. Majority of people have treated me with great respect, referring to me as Sir and to a woman as Madame or Mam.

The prices have been surprisingly reasonable, and after some tough negotiations, I’ve even managed to get better deals than the locals. The employees at hotels and restaurants are particularly helpful and always ready to assist. Most Indians that I have met, speak excellent English. Nevertheless, the strong accent can sometimes make it a bit tricky to understand or funny to listen.

The situation at Indian railway stations can be very chaotic. If I ask around, the answers are not consistent. Fortunately, there is always someone who rescues me from trouble and directs me to the right path. India can present many challenges for those who are naïve or unprepared, but with some precaution, perseverance, and occasionally even a touch of rudeness, I can turn it into an unforgettable adventure.

Another common issue is the presence of beggars and homeless. I noticed a considerable number of them, particularly in Varanasi and Bodhgaya, but they were less common in other places. In general, we can either ignore or accept them as an integral part of Indian society. Similar attitude also applies to the cows on the streets and the litter found on every corner. It’s not unusual to see men urinating in public areas; next to a wall, in a ditch or behind a tree. It can happen anywhere, in urban as well as in rural environments.

When I boarded the first train from the Bangladesh border to Calcutta, it was almost empty. As we approached the city, it quickly became crowded until, after a short nap, I woke up in a packed carriage. The iron bars on windows were giving the feeling as if I was part of a transport unit for prisoners.

From the railway station to the famous Sudder Street, Calcutta’s local version of Khao San Road, I took a classic yellow & black taxi, just like the ones I had seen on TV. The area around Sudder Street is clean and tourist friendly, with affordable hotels and a great location to explore many attractions in Calcutta.

The first couple of hotels I visited were in a shabby condition and overpriced. A kindly stranger took me to some hotels located in the side streets, and after a quick negotiation, I negotiated the price from 350 to 200 rupees. So, for a little over 5.00 US$, I got a room with a decent bed, cable TV, a private bathroom and chai.

Indian tea or chai is a delightful mix of ginger, cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and black pepper, combined with black tea leaves, hot water and steaming milk. I drunk at least three cups of hot chai per day in all kind of formal or informal settings.

The food was one of the most pleasant surprises when I crossed the border from Bangladesh to India. Small snacks are available everywhere on the streets, while I spotted many restaurants offering a menu with Indian, European, Chinese and Japanese cuisine. Since I am in India, I am excited to taste Indian food, which for me is extremely tasty and cheap. I can enjoy a meal for less than a dollar, including thick yogurt drink, lassi, which can be salty or sweet. I have a low tolerance to spicy food, but the spiciness has been manageable so far.

I didn’t find Calcutta to be particularly remarkable; a typical big city lacking unique attractions. The Victoria Memorial is the most important monument from the colonial period, but I was wondering its true purpose. I had imagined the planetarium to be more engaging, but it ended up being a long film about planetary movements with the facts that I had already learned in primary school.

Calcutta is one of the last cities in the world where human rickshaws are still in use. Operated by barefoot men from the lowest castes, these carriages recall memories of a time when exploitation was common. As human-pulled carts pass the wealthy residences or downtown shopping areas, trying to avoid collision with larger vehicles, honorable passengers with a disdainful view of the runner could not have created a stronger contrast.

The overnight train from Calcutta to Gaya was pleasant. At night, the general hustle and bustle calmed down, only here and there a shouting chai vendor would attract attention with a resounding voice: “Chai, chai!”. We reached Gaya right on time, at half past six in the morning. I took an auto rickshaw for the final 10 kilometers to Bodh Gaya.

Bodh Gaya is a Buddhist pilgrimage site where apparently Gautama Buddha attained enlightenment under the Bodhi Tree.

For Buddhists, Bodh Gaya is the most important of the four major pilgrimage sites related with the life of Gautama Buddha. Mahabodhi Temple, where the Buddha attained enlightenment, is now the UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Most of the predominantly Buddhist countries have their temples in the city. I walked from one to another and observed particularly interesting architecture. I had the opportunity to explore the temples of several countries: Nepal, Tibet, China, Thailand, Japan and from Bhutan – the most picturesque one, with paintings and three-dimensional sculptures.

I was completely amazed by the city. Just sitting back and observing the passing rickshaws, women in picturesque saris, street vendors and the lively atmosphere was enough to captivate me.

When I ordered food, it took a very long time to be served. I figured this was a good sign as the food was freshly prepared. Although I couldn’t see the kitchens, I suspected they were using wood or charcoal for cooking, which extended the cooking time.

Varanasi has been famous as the ultimate pilgrimage site for Hindus for many centuries, standing out as one of the 7 holy cities in India. Dying in this sacred city allows a believer to gain liberation from the cycle of birth and rebirth.

As I approached Varanasi in the early evening darkness, I quickly noticed that the first hotels I visited were fully booked. A friendly guy approached me and guided me to a small hotel, where I was able to get a clean bed and a private bathroom for only a few dollars. The following morning, prior to sunrise, I hired a boat and navigated the river to the holiest cremation grounds among the sacred riverfronts, called ghats, Manikarnika Ghat.

I could get a sense of the grandeur of Varanasi from river perspective: the ancient architecture, worshippers honoring their deities along the banks, meditating and bathing in the morning sun. I was expecting a larger turnout of pilgrims; however, the morning’s chill appeared to demotivate them. Later during the day, the number of visitors increased. Men, dressed in minimal garments were bathing in the Ganges, reminding me of my own youthful experiences of swimming the river of my native village.

For the first time in India, I noticed bigger groups of tourists, primarily from Japan. Their presence has led to an increase number of Japanese restaurants and the presence of Asian signs in souvenir shops.

In the afternoon, I explored the banks of the Ganges River, where I compared the costs of cremation between different methods: the traditional method, which is using firewood, and a modern crematorium. The ratio of 10:1 favoring the traditional method illustrates the high appreciation that Hindus have for the natural practice.

Being cremated with firewood in a ghat on Ganges river is nearly as important for devout Hindus as life itself.

A walk through the narrow streets of the old quarter of the city offers a series of interesting experiences, with the most captivating being the encounter with holy cows, strangely dressed backpackers, rickshaws and motorbikes, all of which contributed to the general chaos.

The following day, the hotel manager extended me an invitation to visit a silk factory, promising to offer the finest quality items at unbeatable prices. “You are under no obligation to make a purchase!”, was an argument, when I expressed lack of interest. Even though I had no plans to buy silk presents, since I had already spent my budget, I found myself taking a brief look around a tiny workshop filled with weaving equipment. I spotted some high-quality products, especially those adorned by gold and silver colors, crafted from numerous threads.

I took a seat with the owner of the shop. He offered me a cup of chai, while the well-dressed manager’s brother began setting up tablecloths and scarves for display. Since I wasn’t interested in buying anything, the vendor grew increasingly frustrated and eventually proposed me to purchase a small handcrafted tapestry for 300 rupees. Given my trust in the manager and the tapestry’s appeal, I didn’t haggle to much over the price and settled for 250 rupees. The vendor initially showed annoyance, but quickly agreed to my price.

In the evening, I stumbled upon a very similar piece of art in a local store, though with a distinct design, for a mere 80 rupees. I was so shocked that I nearly fainted. I made my way back to the hotel and, in a very angry manner, told the manager about the incident. When I warned him about the possibility of calling the police, he quickly agreed to give me the money back, while I would return him the tapestry. Before leaving Varanasi, I purchased a really quality tapestry together with an amazing pillow for only 250 rupees.

The dominating religion in India is the Hinduism, which is practiced by almost 80% of the population, or more than 800 million people (in 2000). Outside India, Hinduism is also the dominant religion in Nepal, Bali, Mauritius and Fiji.  In terms of number of believers, Hinduism is the most widespread religion in Asia.

In Hinduism, the universe is the domain of God, with all elements within it representing God’s presence. Every person is essentially divine; the goal of life is to explore, discover and express this inner divinity. Hinduism is non-exclusive religion, naturally welcoming and recognizing all other religions and spiritual practices.

Generally speaking, Hinduism assumes that we are all earthlings on the path of rebirths and reincarnation, at the end of which comes spiritual salvation – moksha – liberation from the cycle of rebirths. With each birth, we can get closer or further away from moksha, depending on our actions, which are expressed in good and bad karma.

The Hindu religion is based on three basic rules: worship, cremation of the dead and the caste system. Hinduism is not a proselytizing religion, which means, that no one can become a Hindu by his own decision. You are born a Hindu, but you can never become one.

A holy cow and a sadhu are also an integral part of Hinduism. I encountered sadhus and cows in all regions of India: however, the concentration of their appearance in Varanasi and Rishikesh was much higher.

The second mother, as a cow is often referred to, has a completely different fate in India in comparison with any other country. If I make a comparison to Western culture, cows are treated more like dogs or cats rather than some other animals, which end up in the kitchen or on the barbeque.

In both, large urban areas and rural settings, cows are allowed to walk around freely, whether in natural surroundings or on the streets. I have often seen them wandering through the narrow streets of Varanasi, Calcutta or Delhi, appearing lost. However, I have been told that every cow has an owner. Amidst the chaotic mix of motorbikes, rickshaws and pedestrians, cows were searching food in the garbage, on the ground or in the drainage system, while street vendors were always ready to deter them with sticks. Their diet often includes items such as paper, cardboard, plastic or even their own urine.

Since cows are sacred in India, their meat is not consumed. When a cow dies near the Ganges river, its corpse is often thrown into the river. If this is not feasible, the carcass may be left for other animals to consume or taken away from the public eye, but the meat is never eaten by humans.

The sacred cow offers two important benefits: its milk, which is mainly used for tea and lassi, and its dung, which in dried form is used as fuel either for cooking or heating.

A sadhu is a person who seeks spiritual purification and enlightenment. Recognizable by their long hair, beards and simple, often orange clothes, these men have normally achieved great success in the material, family and business spheres. In the second part of their lives they decided to pursue the spiritual aspects. Sadhus travel with only bare necessities and obtain food through the generosity of others. They are known to cover great distances between Hindu holy cities. I saw many of them around India, but specially in Varanasi and Rishikesh. Sadhu is also called baba, which in many Indian languages ​​also means father, grandfather or uncle.

The caste system is one of the most controversial features of India, which is practically incomprehensible and unacceptable to me. The caste system divides people into four different classes. Apart from these four classes, there is a fifth group, called DALIT, which includes people that are practically casteless. They are marginalized, without rights and possibilities to achieve anything important in life.

Although the actual segregation in practice often deviates from the formal one on paper, the different position of people is visible in all pores of Indian life. Subalterns worship their higher caste masters as true gods, and the latter treat their servants or subordinates as slaves with no right to a normal life.

It’s fascinating, how affordable hotels and restaurants are in Agra. For the first time in India, eating out at basic eateries or canteens, I ended up with digestive issues, stomach pain and diarrhea. It seemed inevitable and only the question of time, given my travel and eating habits. I successfully addressed the consequences by utilizing effective, inexpensive, locally manufactured diarrhea medication. From then on, I decided to apply greater caution regarding my consumption of dairy products. Lassi was not on my menu anymore.

The primary attraction of Agra is undoubtedly the Taj Mahal, considered the most magnificent monuments of love.

This stunning and unparalleled monument of love is difficult to describe properly. The Taj Mahal is built in memoir to Mumtaz Mahal, the wife of Shah Jahan, who died during the birth of her 14^th child.

Here are some interesting facts about Taj Mahal, which is also one of the Seven Wonders of the World and the India’s most visited tourist attraction.

A perfect mix of Persian, Islamic and Indian architecture combines the beautiful white marble structure with more than 40 types of precious and semi-precious stones, including pearls, diamonds, emeralds and sapphires. It took around 20 years to complete the Taj Mahal and approximately 20,000 workers and 1,000 elephants were employed during the construction. If we evaluate the value of the Taj Mahal through today’s perspective, its construction would be estimated at about 1 billion US dollars.

Due to the elevated ticket prices, which are set at 505 rupees or 12 US$, I waited until Friday, when the entry was free of charge. The color of the monument keeps changing throughout the day. I made the most out of the beautiful sunny day with clear sky to visit it in the late afternoon, when colors are particularly beautiful. I spotted visitors from various religious backgrounds, including Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims. They were all posing at the end of pool, with the monument in the background and didn’t mind me taking a photo of them as well.

As soon as I realized that India offers the possibility of a desert camel safari, I included the province of Rajasthan in my itinerary. There is a distance of almost 900 kilometers from Agra to Jaisalmer. I undertook the initial leg to the city of Jodhpur aboard an uncomfortable bus, navigating through chaotic and poorly maintained roads, which offered very little comfort.

The second part of the journey I traveled overnight by train, sharing the compartment with a group of soldiers who entertained me with offerings of onions and tomatoes. Despite experiencing stomach discomfort, I couldn’t decline their hospitality.

Rocky cliffs, sand dunes, green oases and isolated villages in the western part of India’s Rajasthan province provide all the necessary ingredients for an unforgettable camel safari.

The city of Jaisalmer, also known as the Golden City, is distinguished by its mighty fortress built in 1154 and its breathtaking sunsets, making it the best place to organize desert adventures. Many tourists, travelers and Indian students are received by eager hotel scouts, who additionally suggest the best, the cheapest and most exciting safaris on earth.

To avoid the scam, I preferred visiting a few tourist agencies in the city by myself and decide on the one that adjusts to my wishes: a proper combination of ancient tombs, sand dunes, well-trained camels and stopping in less touristy villages. My request was to ride camels as much as possible, since this was my first opportunity of this kind.

The first part of my desert expedition is completed by jeep. The first stop reminds me of smaller mosques, but the structures are actually the ancient tombs of Rajasthani kings – maharajas. The guide explains me that until the arrival of English colonists, a ritual for all maharaja’s wives was to be buried alive with him. The monuments not only highlight the maharajas but also feature the profiles of their unfortunate wives. The number of wives varies up to ten, that I notice on one of the tombs.

During my four-day safari, the scenery is dominated by rocky desert, interrupted by sand dunes, sparse vegetation and occasional tall trees visible from far distance. Once or twice per day we spot green oases and villages. When we arrive at the first village on the second day, the camels take the chance to graze, and our guide, Mr. Khan, fills plastic canisters with water available at the water tank. At the end of the dry season, the water reserves are almost finished, while the landscape is completely arid.

Dressed in warm clothing and topped with a turban, I protect myself as the sun prepares to blaze at its peak during midday. I expected that riding a camel for a long time would be boring; however, the environment proves to be quite engaging for the observation. A range of colors, structures, sizes and forms is seldomly interrupted by a flock of sheep, looking for food, while the shepherd, covered by a colorful turban, retreats into the shadows.

The intense heat of the desert doesn’t seem to deter the people of Rajasthan from settling down in this challenging environment with scarce resources. Small clusters of houses are scattered across the region, often several kilometers apart. I am told that in a few months, as the rains arrive, inhabitants will plant wheat and vegetables in the barren soil. The trees will flourish again, water reserves will be restored and people will be busy working on the fields.

While observing my guide during a break, I realize that beside the basic camping skills, it’s important to know various methods for cooking and washing in the dry outdoors. One interesting task is how to clean dishes. When water is scarce, desert sand is a useful substitute. I had left soap at the hotel, as personal washing is only possible before or after the safari.

The food usually includes Indian dishes like chapati, rice, lentils and a variety of vegetables seasoned with curry and sometimes chili. Indian chai, made with powdered milk, is usually the first thing we prepare before any meal.

In the late afternoon, we reach a sand dune where we would spend the night. Sleeping under the stars in the desert is an experience I will never forget. Later, the wind picks up the sand and blows it right into my face, obliging me to seek the safe shelter of my tent.

On the following day, the weather changes. Clouds cover the sky, and a strong wind stirs up desert dust. We halt in the largest settlement that we would encounter on this trip. The houses, constructed from mud, sand and cement, are simply decorated in shades of white and orange. Unlike many Indian cities that show signs of colonial British influence, the homes here are either newly built or have been beautifully renovated. Women and children rush into the yard to greet us with “come stai,” reflecting the influence of Italian tourists in this area.

Women wear colorful saris, adorned with inexpensive jewelry that stands out against the dull landscape. Their kindness may not be their most notable quality, which is understandable considering the tough living conditions in the Rajasthan desert.

After the final shouts of the most persistent children disappear behind me, I pay attention to the bell affixed to my camel’s neck. Step by step in a steady rhythm, the camel leads me through the bushes on a network of invisible paths towards the precisely chosen destination, as if these paths are marked by some mysterious signs understood only by the industrious animals. During each longer pause, the guide ties their legs to keep them close. They feed on the rare green clusters of thorny trees that they constantly chew as we move forward.

The center of the activities in Bikaner is the street next to the railway station, where cheap lodgings are also located.

I enjoy a cheap all-you-can eat thali for lunch. In a simple restaurant – canteen, thali is actually the only food served. I sit down on one of the long wooden benches. First, I get a large banana leaf and a bowl to wash my hands. Two waiters walk around with buckets containing food and distribute it to the guests with large ladles. Their task could be defined as a mission to ensure that nobody has empty banana leaf in front of him until the moment, when we clearly announce that we finish eating. For half a dollar, I eat unlimited portions of rice, chapatis, several types of vegetables with curry. I hesitate to order a lassi, because I’m worried it might upset my digestion.

Among the many temples I visit in India, the one that will especially remain in my memory is Karni Mata Temple, located 30 kilometers south of Bikaner. A prominent Hindu temple is an important pilgrimage site for pilgrims and is also a popular destination for tourists, since it is renowned as the Temple of Rats due to the numerous rodents, which are considered holy and treated with utmost care by devotees.

Before the entrance, it is necessary to take off shoes, which further complicates the situation for people with a fear of these unfriendly animals. Rats literally walk between my legs. People offer them food and worship them.

Of the thousands of kābā rats in the temple, there are a few white kābā, which are considered to be especially holy.

They are believed to be the manifestations of Karni Mata herself and her nephews. Seeing them is considered a special blessing. I observe extensive efforts to bring the white rats forth, offering prasad, a sweet holy food. A man next to me uses a banana as bait, which lures one white rat to show itself for a few seconds. It is my lucky day!

My next stop is the capital of Punjab province – Amritsar, also the capital of Sikh religion, in the northern part of India. The night ride on super express train should have been more appropriate called super local train. Despite the fact that I sleep most of the night, I am extremely tired when we arrive at the final stop. The constant screaming of chai, chai, chaaaaaai (tea), boarding, getting off the train of multi-member Indian families, turning on and off the lights, loudly searching for proper seat numbers and murmuring of bags are some of the reasons why I am forced to rest for a few hours in a real hotel bed of upon arrival to Amritsar.

There are 18 million members of Sikh religious group, which are well-known by long beards and turbans of various colors and shapes wrapped around their heads. They are easily recognizable by their appearance due to their symbols called Five Ks:

• Kesh (uncut hair – symbol of sainthood),
• Kangha (a wooden comb for the hair – symbol of purity),
• Kara (an iron bracelet – symbol of determination),
• Kachera (a 100% cotton elastic undergarment – symbol of liveliness),
• Kirpan (an iron dagger form defense).

Sikhism originated in 1469 when Guru Nanak tried to unite the best of Hinduism and Islam. Sikh basic doctrine is quite similar to Hindu, but they do not acknowledge the existence of a caste system, while pilgrimages are not directed to sacred rivers.

I take a rickshaw to the holiest Sikh temple called Harmandir Sahib, or simply the Golden Temple, due to its brilliant appearance. The temple is a personalization of glory, harmony and equality. Similar to entering Buddhist, Hindu or Muslim temples, it is necessary to take off my shoes and leave them in dedicated lockers before the entrance. I am one of seldom visitors who don’t wear a turban. We are obliged to covered our hair with a hat or scarf.  After washing my feet, guards armed with spears give me permission to enter into the holy area.

The view on gilded central temple in the late afternoon sun impresses me so much, that I immediately position the Golden Temple alongside most important religious temples in India.

The water in the pool around the island where the temple is located has a similar meaning as the river Ganges for Hindus. I am surprised with various swimmers, despite the fact that walking on white and extremely clean marble tiles brings cold into my feet.

The Sikhs believe that spiritual possessions can be gained by taking a dip in the holy water of the sacred pool. Even while bathing, men don’t separate from two indispensable parts of their equipment: the turban remains wrapped around the head, while personal knife or real sword is stuck behind the edge of their turbans.

While walking slowly on marble path around the pool, I shyly ask some of the most picturesque pilgrims a permission to take a photo of them. Their grim faces brighten in an instant and let me know that I don’t bother them with this action. There are hardly and non-Sikhs inside the temple. A real relief from the crowd of Europeans and especially Japanese tourists, who have been always around me since I crossed Bangladeshi- Indian border over a month ago.

The Golden Temple is located below the ground level, signifying that visitors must be humble and descend to reach the temple of God. The gilded dome, designed in a mixture of Muslim and Hindu style, is covered by 162 kilograms of gold layers. Its form represents a lotus flower turned upside down, symbolizing the Sikh’s concern for the worldwide problems.

There are four entrances, indicating openness to all devotees irrespective of caste or creed. Many throw money and flowers into a dedicated area or donate pastries, bow down and quickly shout unrecognizable words. I just silently observe many pilgrims, details of magnificent architecture, warm hospitality and captivating peace.

The sacred Guru Granth Sahib (collection of nearly 6,000 hymns) is brought under a pink tablecloth from the Sikh Parliament every morning and returned to the same place late in the evening. When I am leaving the temple, I receive a cake of suspicious brown appearance, but excellent taste (prasad).

One of the pilgrims invites me for a short chat in the common dining room. During our chai time, he explains me about other services available in the temple. Sikhs are very receptive and friendly, so a common kitchen, dining room and library have been built in the temple complex. For those pilgrims and casual visitors who want to stay overnight, free accommodation is also provided.

Kitchen in Golden Temple is the largest free kitchen in the world. It serves more than fifty thousand meals on a daily basis. Younger people help the elders, the rich help the poor, so all the services within the temple are free.

“The color of the turban and its shape play no special role“, explains my interlocutor, who is proud of his yearly pilgrimage from Delhi to Amritsar that lasts several weeks. In addition, there is a casual version of turban, which is used for sports activities or sleeping. This form is reminiscent of a sock that is tied into a ball and placed on the head. “The turban is worn by all men in order to cover their long hair, which they would never cut.”

I was curious about the implications of cutting a Sikh’s hair. The response I received was unequivocal: “You can cut off a Sikh’s head, but never his hair!” The debate about hair was over. Later I read in a brochure that hair is considered a source of vital energy, especially vitamin D, which is essential for the development and integrity of all tissues and organs within the body. Longer hair can absorb more vitamin D from sunlight.

In Indian history, the Sikhs have a special significance as they are renowned as extremely diligent workers, above average educated and with an instinctive ability for trade or negotiations. With their authoritative posture, they form an important part of Indian army or personal security guards of the most influential Indians. Most notable is the former personal guard of the deceased Indira Gandhi, who assassinated her in 1984, because she hadn’t reacted adequately on riots in Punjab area.

In the early 1980s, a faction of Sikh extremists took control of the Golden Temple, calling for the creation of an independent state, Khalistan. The Indian Army’s attack on the Sikh holy city sparked riots, disputes and protests in Punjab and ultimately led to the assassination of Indira Gandhi.

After the Cultural Revolution in China and the expulsion from Tibet, the Dalai Lama found refuge in the hilly area of ​​the village of McLeod Ganj, in the northern part of India. This small settlement just below the stunning Himalayas, offers breathtaking views and creates a very distinct atmosphere from anything I had seen in India before.

While the narrow streets and limited space present some challenges for traffic, I moved around on foot easily. I recognize many Tibetans and their descendants by their distinctive facial features. Many of them participate in daily rituals of praying, pilgrimage, meditation and spinning of the sacred wheels.

The local food, souvenirs, language and music create an image of Tibet as I imagine it from books or travelers’ stories.

Since I continue eating food from the street restaurants, unfortunately the diarrhea regains its strength, sending fear into my ass, which explodes every few minutes in the early hours of the morning. My stomach’s complaints force me to stick to bland food; rice and bread are the sole ingredients of my diet for the next two days, until my digestion normalizes again.

In McLeod Ganj, I also visit a temple dedicated to the Dalai Lama; a simple blue building adorned with sculptures of Buddha, various deities and ancient texts. In the main room, a dozen of the most devoted followers gathers to listen to a monk’s teachings.

The driver navigates the road like a madman all night, pausing for thirty minutes every few hours. As a result, we waste all the time he saves through wild and hazardous driving. Although I manage to sleep for a few hours, I finish the trip exhausted, hungry and in the bad mood. Upon our arrival in Rishikesh, after 17-hour bus journey, my fatigue reaches its peak.

Rishikesh, located at the foothills of the Himalayas, is known as the Gateway to the Garhwal Himalayas and the Yoga Capital of the World. The city promotes a vegetarian lifestyle and has a ban on alcohol.

I didn’t come to Rishikesh for sightseeing, but to disconnect from usual hustle and bustle of everyday life in India, to explore meditation, yoga and life in an ashram – a spiritual monastery. Ashrams are a kind of centers of temporal retreats for spiritual inspiration, teachings and practice. Many of them can be located in very remote areas, but this is not always the case.

At first, I intend to stay in one of the ashrams. However, my favorite one is full and the second too neglected. I decide to spend the first night in a hotel. The next day I settle into an ashram that offers meditation, yoga classes and delicious vegetarian cuisine. The front desk personnel appeared to be bored, spending most of their time engrossed in cricket matches. It seems that meditation and yoga inspire more visitors than locals.

I participate in multiple sessions of yoga, which is beneficial for calming down and relaxing. At the same time, I feel that my body is increasing the flexibility after twisting for two hours, following teacher’s instructions. The rest of the day I rest to recover from the strain on my joints. I feel a little dizzy, the persistent diarrhea reemerged, as it has frequently done during my stay in India. It is part of the experience.

My journey in India finish in the capital, Delhi. I am already an experienced backpacker for Indian standards. In the early morning, I take a moment to enjoy chai before taking a taxi from the central train station to the area of hotels. Beside loving Indian chai, this break was arranged on purpose to wait until most of the crowd had departed and most of the informal assistants had ceased their activities.

I find the capital city to be underwhelming. Maybe this evaluation is unfair, since my main task is to find an inexpensive flight back to Europe. Throughout my day at the Aeroflot office, where I am arranging my return ticket, I perceive Delhi as a disordered and chaotic metropolis, similar to the rest of India. The streets are filled with numerous small shops, old buildings, even in New Delhi, and aggressive vendors offering various services and goods.

Since this is the final stop of my 15-months long travels, I want to purchase a number of goods and souvenirs before my return home. The Paharganj area is well-known for concentration of unexpansive hotels, casual dining options and a wide range of shops orientated towards budget-conscious buyers. This is my paradise for two days, where after hard negotiations and searching for bargains, I make some good deals.

Unfortunately, I don’t have sufficient time for an in-depth exploration of Delhi’s attractions, but I am looking forward to concluding my extensive Big Asian Tour and returning home after over a year.

India is special, unique and extreme. You love it or you hate it. There is nothing between.

The impact of poverty, disease, dirtiness, hassle or chaos can be so strong that the distinctive blend of colors, smells, religions, people and landmarks can diminish the moments of joy. There were situations, when I had enough of everything and during diarrhea issues, I found unbearable to tolerate the presence of so many people around me. It happens to everyone in certain occasions.

Nevertheless, I really enjoyed India. From the first train ride to Calcutta surrounded by hordes of people to the final check-in at the airport counter, when followed by a holy cow, the bizarre situations impressed me. I never tried to interpret them from Western standpoint, because it would be impossible to find the explanation. If the impact of various religions, sacred cities and spicy food is an integral part of Indian culture, it is also characterized by struggle for survival, the inequalities of the caste system, a large population and the presence of extremely poor or disabled people.

During my 40-day journey across India, I was only able to explore the northern region of the country. I am confident that I will return in the future to uncover the unique and captivating aspects of the South India as well.

Having cultivated a deep appreciation for Indian culture, I regard India highly among the nations of Asia. My earlier experience in Bangladesh, which fell short of my expectations regarding cuisine, accommodations, and attractions, has likely influenced my favorable perspective.