East India

Visited: February 2000

Duration of visit: 22 days

Capital city: Delhi

Population: 1,057 million (2000)

East India travel blog reading time: 13 minutes

• Tasty food, inexpensive travelling and friendly people in Calcutta.
• Visiting multiple Buddhist temples in Bodh Gaya.
• Navigating Ganges River and observing a daily ritual of bathing in Varanasi.
• Holy cows, sadhus and cast system.
• Taj Mahal – the greatest monument to love.

India was the final country on my Asian Big Tour, which began in Australia and took me through Southeast Asia and China. During this 15-months long trip, I visited most of the countries in the region and spent almost a month and a half travelling around India, before returning home completely out of money, but rich in experiences.

In this article I describe my travel to East India:

• Human rickshaws in Calcutta
• Buddha enlightenment at Bodh Gaya
• Varanasi – the ultimate pilgrimage spot for Hindus
• The importance of holy cows and impact of Hinduism
• Taj Mahal – the greatest monument to love

More articles about my trips around India are available here:

Before my trip to India, many travelers warned me that Indians could be rather unfriendly, if not aggressive and intrusive. However, during the first week, I experienced the complete opposite.

Everyone I’ve met has been incredibly friendly. Most people have shown me great respect, often addressing me as Sir.

The prices have been surprisingly reasonable, and after some tough negotiations, I’ve even managed to get better deals than the locals. The employees at hotels and restaurants are particularly helpful and always ready to assist. Most Indians that I have met, speak excellent English. Nevertheless, the strong accent can sometimes make it a bit tricky to understand or funny to listen.

The situation at Indian railway stations can be very chaotic. If I ask around, the answers are not consistent. Fortunately, there is always someone who rescues me from trouble and directs me to the right path.

India can present many challenges for those who are naïve or unprepared, but with some precaution, perseverance, and occasionally even a touch of rudeness, I can turn it into an unforgettable adventure.

Another frequent challenge is the presence of beggars, homeless and wandering cows in public spaces. I noticed a considerable number of marginalized people, particularly in Varanasi and Bodhgaya, but they were less common in other places. In general, we can either ignore or accept them as an integral part of Indian society.

Similar approach also applies to the cows roaming the streets and the litter scattered on nearly every corner. It’s not unusual to see men urinating in public areas; next to a wall, in a ditch or behind a tree. It can happen anywhere, in urban as well as in rural environments.

When I boarded the first train from Bangladesh border to Calcutta, it was almost empty. As we approached the city, it quickly became crowded until, after a short nap, I woke up in a packed carriage. The iron bars on windows were giving the feeling as if I was part of a transport unit for prisoners.

From the railway station to the famous Sudder Street, Calcutta’s local version of Bangkok’s Khao San Road, I took a classic yellow-and-black taxi, just like the ones I’d seen on TV. The area around Sudder Street is clean and tourist-friendly, with affordable hotels and a great location offering plenty of things to do while exploring many attractions in Calcutta.

The first couple of hotels I visited were in a shabby condition and overpriced. A kind stranger took me to some hotels located in the side streets, and after a quick bargaining, I negotiated the price from 350 to 200 rupees. For just a little over $5.00 USD, I got a room with a decent bed, cable TV, a private bathroom, and chai.

Indian tea or chai is a delightful mix of ginger, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, and black pepper, combined with black tea leaves, hot water and steaming milk.

I drunk at least three cups of hot chai per day in all kind of formal or informal settings.

The food was one of the most pleasant surprises when I crossed the border from Bangladesh to India. Small snacks are available everywhere on the streets, while I spotted many restaurants offering a menu with Indian, European, Chinese and Japanese cuisine.

Being in India, I am excited to taste Indian food, which for me is extremely tasty and cheap. I can enjoy a meal for less than a dollar, including thick yogurt drink, lassi, which can be salty or sweet. I have a low tolerance to spicy food, but the spiciness has been manageable so far.

I didn’t find Calcutta to be particularly remarkable; it felt like a typical big city lacking standout places to visit or unique attractions. The Victoria Memorial is the most important colonial landmark, but I found myself wondering about its true purpose. I had imagined Birla Planetarium to be more engaging, but it ended up being a long film about planetary movements with the facts that I had already learned in primary school.

Calcutta is one of the last cities in the world where human-pulled rickshaws are still in use. Operated by barefoot men from the lowest castes, these carriages recall memories of a time when exploitation was widespread.

As human-pulled carts pass the wealthy residences or downtown shopping areas, trying to avoid collision with larger vehicles, honorable passengers with a disdainful view of the runner could not have created a stronger contrast.

The overnight train from Calcutta to Gaya was pleasant. At night, the general hustle and bustle calmed down, only here and there a shouting chai vendor would attract attention with a resounding voice:

“Chai, chai!”

We reached Gaya right on time, at half past six in the morning. I took an auto rickshaw for the final 10 kilometers to Bodh Gaya.

Bodh Gaya is a Buddhist pilgrimage site where apparently Gautama Buddha attained enlightenment under the Bodhi Tree.

For Buddhists, Bodh Gaya is the most important of the four major pilgrimage sites related with the life of Gautama Buddha.

The Mahabodhi Temple, where the Buddha attained enlightenment, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Most of the predominantly Buddhist countries have temples located in Bodh Gaya. I walked from one to another, admiring their particularly interesting architecture. I had the opportunity to explore temples representing Nepal, Tibet, China, Thailand, Japan, and Bhutan – the latter being the most picturesque, adorned with intricate paintings and three-dimensional sculptures.

I was completely amazed by the city. Just sitting back and observing the passing rickshaws, women in picturesque saris, street vendors and the lively atmosphere felt more enjoyable than rushing through typical things to do.

When I ordered food, it took a very long time to be served. I figured this was a good sign as the food was freshly prepared. Although I couldn’t see the kitchens, I suspected they were using wood or charcoal for cooking, which extended the cooking time.

Varanasi has been famous as the ultimate pilgrimage site for Hindus for many centuries, standing out as one of the 7 holy cities in India. Dying in this sacred city allows a believer to gain liberation from the cycle of birth and rebirth.

As I approached Varanasi in the early evening darkness, I quickly noticed that the first hotels I visited were fully booked. A friendly guy approached me and guided me to a small hotel, where I got a clean bed and a private bathroom for only a few dollars.

The following morning, before sunrise, I hired a boat and navigated the river to Manikarnika Ghat – the holiest of the cremation grounds along the sacred riverfronts. A memorable highlight of my visit.

I was able to perceive the magnificence of Varanasi from the river perspective: the ancient architecture, worshippers honoring their deities along the banks, meditating and bathing in the morning sun. I was expecting a larger turnout of pilgrims; however, the morning’s chill appeared to demotivate them. Later during the day, the number of visitors increased. Men, dressed in minimal garments were bathing in the Ganges, reminding me of my own youthful experiences of swimming the river of my native village.

For the first time in India, I noticed bigger groups of tourists, primarily from Japan. Their presence has led to an increase number of Japanese restaurants and the presence of Asian signs in souvenir shops.

In the afternoon, I explored the banks of the Ganges River, where I compared the costs of cremation between different methods: the traditional method, which is using firewood, and a modern crematorium. The ratio of 10:1 favoring the traditional method illustrates the high appreciation that Hindus have for the natural practice.

Being cremated with firewood in a ghat on Ganges river is nearly as important for devout Hindus as life itself.

A walk through the narrow streets of the old quarter of the city offers a series of interesting experiences, with the most captivating being the encounter with holy cows, strangely dressed backpackers, rickshaws and motorbikes, all of which contributed to the general chaos.

The following day, the hotel manager extended me an invitation to visit a silk factory, promising to offer the finest quality items at unbeatable prices.

“You are under no obligation to make a purchase!” …

… was an argument, when I expressed lack of interest.

Although I had no plans to buy silk presents, since I had already spent my budget, I found myself taking a brief look around a tiny workshop filled with weaving equipment. I spotted some high-quality products, especially those adorned by gold and silver colors, crafted from numerous threads.

I took a seat with the owner of the shop. He offered me a cup of chai, while the well-dressed manager’s brother began setting up tablecloths and scarves for display. Since I wasn’t interested in buying anything, the vendor grew increasingly frustrated and eventually proposed me to purchase a small handcrafted tapestry for 300 rupees. Trusting the manager and drawn to the tapestry, I didn’t haggle much and agreed to pay 250 rupees. The vendor was initially annoyed but soon agreed to my price proposal.

In the evening, I stumbled upon a very similar piece of art in a local store, though with a distinct design, for a mere 80 rupees. I was so shocked that I nearly fainted. I made my way back to the hotel and, in a very angry manner, told the manager about the incident.

When I warned him about the possibility of calling the police, he quickly agreed to give me the money back, while I would return him the tapestry. Before leaving Varanasi, I purchased a really quality tapestry together with an amazing pillow for only 250 rupees.

The dominating religion in India is the Hinduism, which is practiced by almost 80% of the population, or more than 800 million people (in 2000). Outside India, Hinduism is also the dominant religion in Nepal, Bali, Mauritius and Fiji. In terms of number of believers, Hinduism is the most widespread religion in Asia.

The Hindu religion is based on three basic rules: worship, cremation of the dead and the caste system. Hinduism is not a proselytizing religion, which means, that no one can become a Hindu by his own decision.

You are born a Hindu, but you can never become one.

The cow, often referred to as the second mother, holds a uniquely revered status in India, unlike in any other country. If I make a comparison to Western culture, cows are treated more like dogs or cats rather than some other animals, which end up in the kitchen or on the barbeque. Both, in large urban areas and rural settings, cows roam freely, whether in natural surroundings or wandering the streets.

I have often seen them wandering through the narrow streets of Varanasi, Calcutta, and Rishikesh, sometimes seeming lost. However, I was told that every cow actually has an owner. Amidst the chaotic mix of motorbikes, rickshaws and pedestrians, cows were searching food in the garbage, on the ground or in the drainage system, while street vendors were always ready to deter them with sticks. Their diet often includes items such as paper, cardboard, plastic or even their own urine.

Since cows are sacred in India, their meat is not consumed. When a cow dies near the Ganges river, its corpse is often thrown into the river.

The sacred cow offers two important benefits: its milk, which is mainly used for tea and lassi, and its dung, which in dried form is used as fuel either for cooking or heating.

A sadhu is a person who seeks spiritual purification and enlightenment. Sadhus are religious ascetic, mendicant, or holy people who have abandoned the material aspects of life. I noticed they are easily recognizable by their long hair, beards, and simple, often orange robes.

What surprised me most is that many of these men had previously achieved great success in family, business, or material pursuits. In the second part of their lives they focus entirely on their spiritual journey.

Sadhus travel with only bare necessities and obtain food through the generosity of others. They are known to cover great distances between Hindu holy cities. I saw many of them around India, but specially in Varanasi and Rishikesh. Sadhu is also called baba, which in many Indian languages ​​also means father, grandfather or uncle.

The caste system in India is one of the most controversial and difficult aspects for me to understand or accept. It divides people into four main classes, but beyond these, there’s a fifth group called the Dalits – people who are practically casteless and face severe marginalization. I’ve seen how they live without basic rights or opportunities to improve their lives.

I was struck by how those in the lower castes often look up to their higher-caste masters almost like gods, while those in the upper castes frequently treat their subordinates as if they have no right to a decent life. It’s a harsh and painful reality that left a deep impression on me.

For the first time in India, eating out at basic eateries or canteens, I ended up with digestive issues, stomach pain and diarrhea. It seemed inevitable and only the question of time, given my travel and eating habits. I successfully addressed the consequences by utilizing effective, inexpensive, locally manufactured diarrhea medication. From then on, I decided to apply greater caution regarding my consumption of dairy products. Lassi was not on my menu anymore.

The primary attraction of Agra is undoubtedly the Taj Mahal, considered the most magnificent monuments of love and a must-visit place for anyone traveling to India.

This stunning and unparalleled monument of love is difficult to describe properly. The Taj Mahal is built in memoir of Mumtaz Mahal, the wife of Shah Jahan, who died during the birth of her 14^th child.

Here are some interesting facts about the Taj Mahal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and India’s most visited tourist attraction:

A perfect mix of Persian, Islamic and Indian architecture combines the beautiful white marble structure with more than 40 types of precious and semi-precious stones, including pearls, diamonds, emeralds and sapphires.

It took around 20 years to complete the Taj Mahal and approximately 20,000 workers and 1,000 elephants were employed during the construction. If we evaluate the value of the Taj Mahal through today’s perspective, its construction would be estimated at about 1 billion US dollars.

Due to the elevated ticket prices, which are set at 500 rupees or 12 US$, I waited until Friday, when the entry was free of charge.

The appearance of this remarkable landmark changes throughout the day. I chose to visit the Taj Mahal in the late afternoon, when it looks especially stunning under the soft light.

I took advantage of the beautiful sunny weather and clear skies to visit Taj Mahal in the late afternoon, when the colors are especially striking.

I spotted visitors from various religious backgrounds, including Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims. They were all posing at the edge of the pool with the monument in the background, and they didn’t seem to mind at all when I snapped a photo of them.