Japan

Visited: September 2007, July 2023

Duration of visit: 25 days

Capital city: Tokyo

Population: 125 million (2023)

Estimated reading time: 33 minutes

• Arriving at the airport and immediately getting in touch with Japanese culture.
• Amazed by Tokyo – the biggest and the most spectacular city in the world: attractions, people, food, music, transport, engineering solutions, cars, etc.
• The mix of tradition and modern in the old capital Kyoto – geishas, temples, ryokan.
• Tasting varieties of Japanese food on markets, restaurants, homemade and small places only known to locals.
• Japanese tradition and technology – kimonos, Shinkansen, karaoke, geishas.
• Commemorating the atomic bombs impact in Hiroshima and Nagasaki.
• Being guest at Tomohito parents’ house near Hashimoto.
• Night out in a tofu specialized restaurant.
• A special gift to my Japanese friend – a helicopter flight over Yokohama.
• Spectacular festival with a race of naked buttocks pushing heavy floats in Fukuoka.

Japan was simply too expensive for my budget, while exploring the Asian continent at the beginning of the century and was not part of the Asian Big Tour from Australia, through Southeast Asia and China to India. Nevertheless, Japan was always very high on my bucket list.

The ideal opportunity to visit the country of Samurais occurred during a three-week break, while I was living and working in London. Residing in one of the most expensive cities in the world and earning a decent salary, made my first travel to Japan much more affordable.

I prepared in advance, announcing my upcoming visit to a Japanese friend Tomohito and my girlfriend’s friend Emiko. Just in case they would have time and would be willing to show around their neighborhoods or accompany us to a traditional restaurant.

I purchased Japan Rail Pass, which allowed me to utilize all trains for two weeks without any restrictions, in advance.

These special passes are available only to foreign visitors, if they are purchased outside of Japan before the trip.

Probably the best deal in a country; being eligible to unlimited travelling at over 200 kilometers per hour on a national network of bullet trains for a few hundred dollars.

We arrived at the Narita International Airport. I found arrival forms to register at the immigration checkpoint and beside them were glasses for farsighted hyperopia. Real luxury and a special experience happened to me during the usage of elaborated airport toilets, where I played with numerous buttons on the electronic bidet.

Hot water, cold water, power of the jet and its inclination are only some basic functions in the advanced technology. Finally, a dryer provides various temperature settings and automatically concludes the process.

The immigration officer greeted us by stating:

“Welcome to Slovenia and Panama!“, as he examined our passports.

“I visited both countries and I hope you will like Japan as much as I did your homelands. Welcome to Tokyo!”, were the welcoming words in broken English.

I was surprised to meet somebody who visited Panama as well as Slovenia as much as with the kindness received by the immigration officer.

Tokyo is the biggest and the most spectacular city in the world, offering such a variety of activities, sights or events that I could stay here for a month or longer to digest it properly. From the busiest intersection for pedestrians in Shinjuku, to the world’s first and only robot-operated hotel, restaurants featuring robotic dining experiences and the highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants renowned for their culinary excellence.

The vending machine capital in the world is one of the safest cities, which inspires with a mix of latest technology, avant-garde displays and unique fashion culture, as well as historical shrines and temples that provide a tranquil sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of urban life.

What about walking around at night around the illuminated streets of Akihabara, a vibrant district that has gained worldwide recognition as a center for manga and anime culture? Or having fun in karaoke bar with your friends or business partners?

I have a deep appreciation for New York, London, and Mexico City. However, there is no question that Tokyo stands as my favorite city in the world.

For several days I drove, walked and explored the Japanese capital, visited some of its main attractions, got to know the way of life, logistics and organization. Exemplary organized public transport is affordable and relatively easy to use despite the incredibly sophisticated information, maps and instructions on ticket vending machines.

Street signs, boards, public transport stations and instructions for purchasing tickets are in most cases also available in English. The Japanese have a limited understanding of the English language and are even less proficient in speaking it.

Shibuya houses two of the busiest railway stations in the world, Shibuya Station and Shinjuku Station. The infinite number of people eventually spills over into the nearby streets, which is most noticeable on the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing, Shibuya Scramble Crossing.

Shinjuku Station, recognized as the busiest railway station globally, holds a place in the Guinness Book of World Records for accommodating the highest volume of passengers.

All railway route meets at this location, creating a crucial stop for commuters who work in Tokyo’s high-rise buildings and commercial areas.

Walking around the station surrounded by so many people, who confidently show that they know what they are doing, might be stressful at the beginning. But I soon realized that the system of human traffic work perfectly and following the signs brings you to the target.  Shinjuku station is not only the point of travelling, but also a small city with shops, restaurants, supermarkets and other services, used by thousands of passing commuters every day.

Shinjuku attracts visitors with its renowned department stores, fashion centers, shops specializing in consumer electronics, cinemas, and performance venues. The district is also celebrated for its vibrant lights and nightlife, particularly in the entertainment area of Kabukicho, although numerous restaurants and pubs can be found elsewhere.

The world’s busiest pedestrian crossing, Shibuya Scramble Crossing was surprisingly quiet during my visit.

With as many as 3,000 people crossing at a time per green light (every 2 minutes) transforms into an estimated 260,000 pedestrians per day on week days, and 100,000 more on non-working days and up to half a million people on the busiest days.

Rather than by the quantity of pedestrians, I was amazed by strange posing, selfies, videos and live reporting from regular people, tourists and local influencers. Three large video displays affixed to adjacent structures, along with static billboards, create a vibrant setting for prominent announcements amidst the bustling crowd.

Additionally, the vicinity is replete with fashion retailers, diverse dining establishments, and an array of colorful boutiques and shops.

Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo is the largest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world, opened in 1935. Approximately 900 wholesale vendors manage small stalls featuring fish, seafood, and fruits in the area accessible to visitors. Auctions and most of the processing of the fish take place in the inner area, which I was not able to visit.

The outer markets feature a combination of wholesale and retail establishments that provide kitchen utensils and supplies, as well as groceries and seafood. Adjacent to the seafood vendors, numerous restaurants, particularly those specializing in sushi, present dishes made with fresh ingredients, a clean ambiance, and affordable prices.

I had the opportunity to sample freshly prepared sushi at a quaint outdoor restaurant. I was fortunate to be seated beside a Singaporean couple who were well-informed about their preferences when it came to ordering fresh sushi.

I enjoyed a selection of some of the most unique sushi, all of which were exquisite in flavor: unagi (eel), uni (sea urchin), maguro (bluefin tuna), among others.

PS: Tsukiji market closed in 2018, with the businesses of the inner market relocated to the new Toyosu Market.

I visited Toyosu Market in July 2023; however, the scale and selection of products were significantly reduced compared to the original market. The ambiance is predominantly tourist-oriented, attracting numerous international visitors.

I explored numerous other landmarks in one of the most densely populated cities globally; as a symbol of the nation’s post-war rebirth, Tokyo Tower, offers spectacular view from observation deck at 150 meters above the ground; the oldest-established temple Sensō-ji; Meiji Shrine, dedicated to the Japanese imperial reformer and his wife, who lived at the turn of the 19^th to the 20^th century.

Luxury brand shops, unique buildings and extravagant show windows in Ginza district. Nightlife with colorful neon lights and of course variety of restaurant with delicious food and innovative drinks were part of my daily highlights.

The Toyota Automobile Museum presents the evolution and cultural importance of automobiles globally, encompassing a wide range of vehicles, from the earliest gasoline-powered cars to modern electric models. For me, the most interesting part was the short drive of Toyota’s futuristic i-unit vehicle, intended for a personal mobility, especially developed for Expo 2005.

The i-unit is a compact, single-passenger four-wheel Toyota prototype. It combines elements of a microcar, a motorcycle, and a vehicular exoskeleton. In theory this futuristic Toyota design offers individual transportation that is suitable for road use and also allows interaction with people walking. The suitability of the prototype for broader application will become evident over time.

After delicious dinner in a traditional restaurant shabu-shabu – Japanese hot pot, featuring paper-thin slices of tender meat and fresh vegetables cooked together in a large open pot, it was time for karaoke. Another Japanese invention that has spread around the world.

A building resembling a hotel provided all kinds of rooms that would suite a variety of groups which can rent a particular space for a certain period of time. We hired a small space, since we were only three people.

A soundproof room was equipped with microphones, loudspeakers and a television screen, projecting video and lyrics. It was simple to choose a favored song from an extensive selection of tracks in the most significant languages. In a relaxing and private setting, time seemed to pass quickly, facing with the fact that we needed to repeatedly extend the initial 30 minutes to nearly two hours.

It is always nice to have a friend in a country that you visit, but having an opportunity to stay with locals in Japan is even more exciting experience. Tomohito, our host, resides in the city of Hashimoto, located about an hour to the west of Tokyo. His family welcomed me and my girlfriend as new family members.

Tomohito, his parents and grandmother devoted their time to us and explained many local customs. The home kitchen provided us with delightful culinary offerings. Since the Japanese do not speak English well, direct communication was difficult, but with Tomohito’s translation we managed that too.

The highlights of staying with a Japanese family were dressing my girlfriend in Tomohito’s mother’s wedding kimono and an invitation to a special restaurant on the last day of our stay in their home.

It required over an hour to properly dress Nivia in a kimono, as well as to style her hair and adorn her with accessories. Even the grandmother, who had been engaged in the process throughout, was notably impressed with the final outcome.

During the final evening of our visit with the family, we received an invitation to a unique restaurant that specialized in dishes centered around tofu.

The adults occupied one table, whereas Tomohito and the two of us were seated at a separate table. I didn’t know what to expect, but each dish that was served was more delicious than the previous one. Each plate was accompanied by a different type of sake.

Tofu in broth, baked, devoid of contents, accompanied by various additives, …. all offered remarkable flavors. They concluded the meal with exceptionally fresh, tender, and warm tofu, which stood out as the highlight of the evening.

The incredibly tasty experience with tofu dishes lasted for several hours and it was definitely one of the highlights of culinary experiences in Japan.

Experiencing the cuisine in Japan and the everyday dining culture represented one of the most significant contrasts compared to other parts of the world.

Each visit to a restaurant, food market, or street stall was a unique and memorable occasion: extraordinary variety of dishes, flavors, methods of preparation, serving or ordering.

Shopping in grocery stores, choosing delicious and perfectly packed or served desserts is exceptional.

The extraordinarily high prices associated with attractively presented giant sized fruits that exhibit flawless shapes or tantalizing flavors are a fundamental aspect of Japanese cuisine as well. Regrettably, my constrained budget prevented me from purchasing certain luxury fruits, such as melons.

Ordering food in most of Japanese restaurants is very easy these days, since photos of dishes, English translations or pads are available. Additionally, eye-catching artificial food items have been displayed in stores and eateries nationwide, serving as representations of the menu items offered in the restaurants.

The so called Shokuhin Sampuru – plastic food, is a type of food replica made of plastic. Plastic food has a long-standing history in Japan, dating back several centuries, but its popularity surged in the early 20^th century. The practice originated when Japan was a significant importer of food, and plastic replicas enabled restaurants to visually present the imported dishes to customers.

Initially, paraffin was the material of choice for creating these replicas until the mid-1980s, when it was replaced by new material, which more durable and effectively replicates the appearance, texture, and shape of actual food.

Using Japan Rail Pass, I was able to travel long distances in a question of hours at no extra cost. Extended bullet trains network in Japan covers all mayor cities and I preferred to be based in Tokyo or Kyoto, making long day trips, instead of changing the accommodation various time.

The Shinkansen was established to link remote areas of Japan with Tokyo, the nation’s capital, in order to promote economic growth and development.

Operating at maximum speeds ranging from 260 to 320 km/h, Shinkansen has become one of the most heavily utilized high-speed rail systems globally since its inception over fifty years ago.

My first experience with Shinkansen was truly unforgettable. I was in the restroom of a smaller train station when the entire building shook for a brief moment before settling down. It was not an earthquake. I hurried out of the restrooms and saw my girlfriend doing the same. We exchanged glances and simultaneously exclaimed:

“This was a Shinkansen!”

The Shinkansen passed the station at full speed in a question of seconds.

The journey by Japanese bullet-train is characterized by efficiency, speed, precision, and simplicity. The seating is quite comfortable, the acceleration is perceptible, and the ride is exceptionally smooth. Usually the trains were not busy; only once I couldn’t find the seat due to the late evening ride on a public holiday.

The trains are impeccably clean, consistently punctual, and provide a high level of comfort. The stations are clearly marked in both English and Japanese, featuring platform indicators that allow passengers to position themselves correctly in preparation for boarding the appropriate section of the train.

If my hotel in Tokyo was a modern, perfectly calculated, organized and dimensioned, in Kyoto I preferred staying in a traditional Japanese inn which typically features tatami-matted rooms, communal bathrooms, poorly isolated walls and lacks of modern facilities.

Ryokans have existed since the 8^th century, serving as some of the earliest hotels in the world. Since ryokans are usually bigger, located in houses rather than tall buildings, and more expensive than regular hotel rooms, they are difficult to find in Tokyo and other large cities.

Kyoto served as an ideal location for a stay in a ryokan, which was a small establishment featuring only three rooms. The landlady explained us the house rules and prepared breakfast every morning.

I immediately fell in love with minimalistic furniture, simplicity and basics, rather than technology. I took off the shoes before opening a sliding door and stepping onto the tatami floor.

Shoji sliding doors or walls are made of tough, translucent paper manufactured of wood fibers. Being old or new, they offer a unique charm in modern interior architecture.

Tatami refers to a specific type of flooring material commonly utilized in traditional Japanese rooms. These mats are manufactured in standardized dimensions, typically measuring approximately 0.9 meters in width and 1.8 meters in length, with the length being twice that of the width.

Historically, tatami mats played a crucial role in defining the dimensions of a room, as they are designed to be arranged without any cutting.

Throughout history, Kyoto has been ravaged by numerous conflicts and blazes, yet its unparalleled historical significance spared the city from being targeted by atomic bombs and it managed to avoid destruction throughout the World War II.

Today, the old capital of Kyoto, which served as Japan’s capital and the emperor’s residence from 794 until 1868, is home to numerous temples, shrines, and other historically invaluable buildings.

Kyoto presents is a unique mix of tradition and modernity in architecture, lifestyle, customs and various forms of transport.

I stayed in Kyoto for four days to explore the old town, enjoyed hot springs, tasted delicious food and paid a visit to some of the most important landmarks in the city and its surroundings.

The list of attractions and activities in Kyoto is long and varied. From temple walks, bamboo plantation tours and feeding wild monkeys in Arashiyama’s bamboo forest to discovering samurai armor, weapon suits and ninja outfits in Samurai & Ninja Museum.

Tasting food at Nishiki Market, visiting pagodas or strolling through gardens during a day and bathing in a hot spring (onsen) or public bath (sento) in the evening are excellent.

Kyoto Imperial Palace with serene Japanese garden was the former palace of the Emperor of Japan for six centuries until the the political revolution in 1868 moved the capital to Tokyo.

Apart from tasting food at the market and various restaurants in the old town, my most memorable moments in Kyoto were walking through the Thousand Gate at Fushimi Inari Shrine and trying to catch a look at geisha at Hanami-koji-dori in Gion.

Dedicated to Inari, the deity of good harvest and success in business, Fushimi Inari Taisha is the head of all Japanese Inari shrines. Situated at the base of Mount Inari, which rises to an elevation of 233 meters, the shrine features trails that lead to several smaller shrines. The route ascending Mount Inari is adorned with numerous stone altars (otsuka) and is characterized by around 10,000 torii gates.

Each of the tori has been donated by companies and individuals from around Japan since the 17^th century, for their divine properties for business and personal prosperity. About 800 are lined up to form the Senbon Torii, creating the impression of a tunnel.

I stopped many times along the way to observe the incredible sight of the vibrant orange gates topped with black roof, inscribed with messages and prayers. Along the walking trail, there are Japanese restaurants and souvenir shops selling drinks, food and tsujiura senbei, a type of fortune cookie believed to date back to the 19^th century.

Although many visitors approach the Romon Gate at the shrine’s entrance, they seem to abandon the climb up the mountain early stages. As I ascended and ventured further, the number of visitors diminished, allowing me to fully appreciate the tranquility and the bond of this exceptional sanctuary with the surrounding natural environment.

Highly trained performers known as geishas are hired to bring a unique flair to formal meals, private events, and special celebrations. Contrary to numerous baseless rumors and misrepresentations found in certain literature and films, they do not engage in prostitution. Rather, these women have dedicated years to perfecting their traditional Japanese arts to become exceptional entertainers.

Young women, typically aged 15 to 20, undergo a five-year training to become a geiko. Throughout this period, they go by the name of maiko. Approximately 100 geiko and 100 maiko are believed to be in Kyoto.

They usually don’t live far from the venue, where they work, so in theory they walk from home to work. I was trying to catch a glimpse of geishas during both visits of Kyoto, frequently walking or sitting around Hanami-koji-dori in Gion area.

Although I was unable to see any geishas in 2007, my second visit in 2023 proved more fruitful, as I spotted a young woman adorned in a simple white kimono with long sleeves, her face painted in traditional white makeup and her hair styled in a classic manner. She moved with short, brisk steps while wearing a contemporary version of the traditional wooden elevated sandals known as geta.

Based in Kyoto I made day trips to relatively remote places, which were conveniently accessible by Shinkansen as a day trip. These excursions allowed me to explore various aspects of Japan’s heritage, including a castle and a traditional village, both renowned for their distinctive architectural styles and innovative engineering techniques.

Himeji Castle is recognized as the most exemplary surviving instance of traditional Japanese castle architecture from the early 17th century. It features a complex of 83 rooms equipped with sophisticated defensive mechanisms and protective devices that date back to the beginning of the Shogun era.

This structure is a remarkable artistic achievement in timber, harmoniously combining functionality with aesthetic appeal, as demonstrated by its elegant appearance characterized by white-washed earthen walls and the intricate relationship between the various architectural forms and roof levels.

Shirakawa is a village situated in Gifu Prefecture, renowned for being home to Shirakawa-gō, a small, traditional village that exemplifies the gasshō-zukuri architectural style. Alongside Gokayama, it has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Gassho-style residence is regarded as one of the most important and rare types of farmhouse architecture in Japan.

It is distinguished by its sharply sloped thatched roof, resembling two hands joined in prayer.

The construction is exceptionally sturdy, and the unique properties of the thatching enable it to withstand and manage the heavy snowfall typical of the region during winter. These homes are expansive, typically comprising three to four levels beneath the low eaves, and were historically crafted to house large families while offering sufficient space for diverse trades.

Hiroshima is one of the two Japanese cities, which were largely destroyed by atomic bombing during the World War II. On 6^th and 9^th August 1945, the US army dropped two atomic bombs over Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

The atomic bombs, which are still the only instance of nuclear weapons being used in an armed war, killed between 150,000 and 246,000 people, the majority of whom were civilians.

Although Japan surrendered to the Allies on 15^th August 1945 and the Japanese government signed the instrument of surrender on 2^nd September, effectively ending the war, the atomic bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki left an indelible mark on human history. The short-term and long-term consequences of bombing are so terrible that they clearly showed how easy it would be to destroy human life on earth in the case of a nuclear war or more extensive nuclear conflicts.

The bomb’s destructive capacity was immense, annihilating nearly everything within a two-kilometer radius. The Hiroshima Peace Memorial, also designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, commemorates the bombing. Prior to the attack, the location that is currently known as the Peace Park served as the political and commercial hub of the city. On the fourth anniversary of the bombing, a decision was made to preserve the site, opting not to redevelop it but to convert it into facilities dedicated to peace memorialization.

The Peace Memorial Museum documents the history of Hiroshima and the development of the nuclear bomb, focusing particularly on the events of August 6th, when the bomb was dropped and its catastrophic effects on human life were felt. The personal accounts shared are deeply unsettling, acting as a powerful reminder of the importance of valuing peace. The personal details presented are profoundly distressing, acting as a powerful reminder that we should not take peace for granted.

The A-Bomb Dome is the remnant of the former Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, which was used to promote Hiroshima’s industries. When the bomb exploded, it was one of the few structures that survived, and it continues to stand today.

Walking through the area marked by the unfortunate event filled me with a special sense of anxiety, fear and wonder at how far civilization has come in its desire for revenge, victory or supremacy.

Despite the fact that 60 years have passed since the traumatic scenes, which are recorded in photographs, narratives, videos and material remains, my emotions were still deeply affected.

On the other hand, it is perhaps even more unbelievable how humbly the Japanese people accepted such a cruel punishment, commemorated it appropriately, and have been conscientiously ensuring that such events would never happen again.

Finding a suitable gift for our Japanese host, Tomohito, proved to be quite a challenge. We sought something distinctive, unique, and truly memorable. Ultimately, we chose to offer a different perspective: a breathtaking view of the sunset over Yokohama, which was nothing short of spectacular.

Witnessing the city from above, we were all struck by how even a perfect city could appear more magnificent from the air.

I opted to present Tomohito with an evening helicopter ride over Yokohama.

This brief 15-minute journey elevated us above the bustling metropolis just as the final rays of sunlight illuminated the downtown area, adorned with its opulent skyscrapers. The roar of the engine, the swift pace, and the tilting motions during sharp turns added to the exhilarating experience, making it truly unforgettable.

A surprise journey to Japan was arranged as a reward for my children, complementing our travels to Australia and South Korea during the summer of 2023. The kids didn’t know that we were visiting Japan at all, until during the boarding at Seoul airport the airline representative asked:

“How much time are you going to stay in Japan?”

The kids were completely surprised and filled with excitement at the prospect of visiting their dream destination.

Since me and my partner had already visited Japan before, the planning of activities, attractions, food and destinations were almost completely in kids’ hands. Instead of classical sights, we were focused more on modern contemporary attractions.

Fukuoka was an entry point to Japan for a simple reason of being easily accessible from South Korea. It also served as a base to reach Nagasaki and later continue north towards Tokyo.

The sixth-largest and the fastest growing city in Japan is built along the shores of Hakata Bay. A center of international commerce since ancient times features a diverse array of restaurants, food stalls interesting walking opportunities around the canal and in July also one of the most interesting festivals in Japan.

Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival features a spectacular time trial race in the early morning hours every 15^th of July, when seven one-ton floats from different neighborhoods race around the streets.

Hundreds of male competitors push beautifully decorated festival floats along a five-kilometer-long course through the city, drawing thousands of spectators.

The most interesting part of traditional white dresses are special thongs, which reveal complete more or less elegant buttocks.

Pouring water on the ground in front of the procession helps to move the heavy kazariyama floats through the streets, reducing friction between the float and the road surface. While thousands of spectators cheer the teams, five meters tall and one-ton heavy floats are dragged through the streets. Men of all generations follow precisely defined instructions, screamed by a leader seated on the float, to achieve strength, precision and coordination between them.

Pushing and carrying a heavy load is extremely tiring work, expressing in fatigue on their faces. Team members take turns, cheer and compete for real. Everyone has their own position and tasks, for which they prepare throughout the year. It takes approximately 30 minutes of intense effort to complete the five-kilometer-long course, which includes several tight turns and long stretches along narrow lanes and broad streets.

An amazing experience that appeared in my schedule without any plans. I realized about the event only a day before, when exploring Fukuoka and finding some of the larger kazariyama floats spread out across the city. They stand over ten meters tall and weigh over two tons. They were used for racing in the past, but today they serve as decorative floats until 14^th of July.

Since I had already visited Hiroshima in 2007, I decided to learn more about the second and the last use of a nuclear weapon in a combat, that occurred in Nagasaki. On 9^th August 1945, 53 seconds after its release, the bomb exploded at 11:02 am, at an approximate altitude of 550 meters above the city.

The Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum offers some information about the event and consequences of bombing that hit 40 percent greater than the Hiroshima bomb, even though the damage at Nagasaki was not as great as it had been at Hiroshima.

Out of the 52,000 homes in Nagasaki, 14,000 were destroyed and 5,400 more seriously damaged. It is estimated that 40,000 people died initially, with 60,000 more injured.

The situation could have been significantly more severe had the attack been executed with greater precision or if the weather conditions had been more favorable. The hills, geographic layout and the bomb’s detonation over an industrial area, helped shield portions of the city from the weapon’s blast, heat, and radiation effects.

The day after the attack on Nagasaki, the emperor of Japan overruled the military leaders of Japan and forced them to offer to surrender and terminate the World War II.

The most important task is to ensure that the memories of the disaster remain vivid, preventing its recurrence.

Strolling through the museum, Nagasaki Peace Park and some parts of the city that quickly recovered evokes feelings of trauma and concern. In addition to remembering the horrible event one cannot help but reflect on the astonishing destructive capability of human-engineered weapons.

After thoroughly exploring Kyoto during my previous trip, we only stopped briefly in Kyoto in 2023. Luckily, our visit coincided with one of the biggest annual festivals in the whole country, Gion Matsuri.

We arrived early for the processions of traditional parade floats, but on time to participate in the memorable processions known as Yoiyama street festivals. Kyotoites dress in yukata, mingle on the streets and gather to promenade in colorful yukata robes. Yukata is a summer kimono, original worn as bathrobes, but later extended to a casual use in the summer.

Observing groups of young girls adorned in vibrant kimonos as they sought the ideal angles for a perfect selfie was truly remarkable. Additionally, witnessing young couples strolling confidently along bustling streets, where artists, musicians, and street vendors captivated the interest of onlookers, added to the lively atmosphere.

Returning to Tokyo 16 years later was not lees exciting than the first-time visit. We arrived at Tokyo Station this time, rather than landing at the airport. A major railway station in Chiyoda is actually a small town always full of people, who walk around in a rush to catch a train, metro, a snack, coffee or go home.

Our prior experience enabled us to easily locate the metro connection that would lead us to a pleasant apartment in the Edogawa area. An interesting mix of grocery stores, shops, restaurants, office buildings and residential edifices offered a comfortable place to stay not far from the center of Tokyo.

There are many options to taste one of the most famous Japanese dishes – sushi. After savoring some of the most exclusive pieces with fresh seafood and fish on the old Tsukiji fish market during the first visit of Japan, this time I opted for a more affordable, fun and popular choice that will surely impress the whole family.

Over 500 Sushiro restaurants constitute the largest conveyor belt sushi chain in Japan.

Locating the subsidiary at Shibuya Station Square proved to be a challenge; however, our early arrival allowed us to secure a table in what is typically a bustling restaurant. We were quickly captivated by the ambiance, particularly the conveyor belt that continuously delivered sushi and various other dishes presented on plates of different colors.

Sushiro’s primary advantage lies in its ability to offer premium sushi at affordable prices. The menu features a diverse selection that includes not only sushi but also complete meals, desserts, and beverages. Upon reviewing the menu, I decided to grant the children the autonomy to choose their own orders freely.

After nearly two hours of sampling, ordering, laughing and savoring delightful dishes, we departed from the dining area feeling content and satisfied.

The total bill, which was under 50.00 US$, served as an additional motivation to cherish this memorable experience.

Karaoke ten years later in the company of the kids was a special experience. The system of karaoke in Japan itself remains more or less the same, the upgrade is mainly in the digitization of the equipment or accessories and higher prices. If in the previous occasion the price was very affordable and determined by the size of the room, this time I paid much more, based on the amount of people.

Our passion was quickly unleashed, vocal cords strained, the light show added to the great atmosphere and the party could begin. The repertoire of English-Spanish songs was wide, the sound was excellent.

The most memorable museum in Tokyo is teamLab Planets, combining digital art and the beauty of nature. A museum features four expansive art spaces and two gardens, allowing visitors to walk barefoot through water and immerse themselves in the floral surroundings. Notably, the Floating Flower Garden, which showcases 13,000 live orchids connected to sensors, created an impression of entering an alternate world, where beautiful flowers gracefully rise and fall.

The primary characteristic of the museum is to facilitate a gradual and organic engagement with the extensive collection of artworks alongside fellow visitors. The presence of individuals alters the artworks, creating a fusion that diminishes the distinction between the observer and the art itself.

Unlimited Crystal Universe is a space adorned with LED bulbs and reflective surfaces, offering visitors the opportunity to stroll through and immerse themselves in the illusion of boundless expanse. The idea behind this creation was to craft a three-dimensional rendition of pointillism.

The Moss Garden of Echoing Microscopic Worlds is enveloped in spheres that mirror the sunlight and their surroundings throughout the day, and transform into glowing orbs after dusk. Whenever these spheres are moved by an individual or carried away by the breeze, they shift hues and produce enchanting noises.

Akihabara is renowned for its multitude of shops and specialized retail establishments offering a wide range of manga, anime merchandise, electronics, video games and all kinds of geekery. The district is also home to themed cafes, maid cafes, and arcades that cater to the interests of manga and anime enthusiasts.

The stores range from tiny stalls to vast department stores.

One of the most recognized venue, specialized in manga, anime, and video games, is Radio Kaikan. As soon as we reached the 10 floors building, I knew that I can leave my kids for at least an hour to navigate among toys, trading cards, collectibles, manga and enjoy the unique opportunity to get close to Japanese heroes and culture.

Beside colorful products, decoration and attractive exhibition, the staff dressed as maids or butlers, promoting services and venues on the streets, are also part of the show.

Some of the most popular venues in Akihabara are the so-called maid cafes. Themed restaurants, where waitresses dress as maids and refer to their customers as master or mistress, were originally designed to cater to the fantasies of male otaku – fans of anime, manga and video games. Originating in Akihabara, some of these cafes have branched out to other locations, not only in Tokyo but also in the rest of Japan.

In these cafés, waitresses, dressed in maid costumes, act as servants, and treat customers as masters as if they were in a private home, rather than as café patrons.

Most waitresses are young, attractive and innocent-looking women dressed in distinctive costumes that differ from one café to another. However, the typical attire generally includes a dress, a petticoat, a pinafore, a matching hair accessory and stockings.

It is easy to spot the waitresses, promoting their cafes on the streets, distributing flyers or standing with a cardboard sign advertising their businesses. They don’t want to be photographed. They turn away upon noticing passers-by with a camera or phone. The cameramen are almost exclusively tourists, as the Japanese are aware that taking photos on the street is not desirable, and even prohibited inside cafes.

Fifteen years after the last encounter and constant intents to communicate with my old Japanese friend Tomohito, he finally answered on my messages, when I announced him, that I was returning to Japan accompanied by my family.

“You are welcome to come to my house. I am inviting you for lunch!”, was the message that filled me with immense joy.

Tomohito lives in a residential neighborhood in Western part of Tokyo, more than 45 minutes in subway from downtown. He constructed a contemporary residence characterized by a minimalist design, featuring convenient parking facilities and limited green space in the surrounding area. Predominantly black and white colors reflect the simplicity aligned with pure lines, little furniture, seldom decoration and advanced technology.

The kids aligned easily, playing Nintendo, while we reminisced and feasted on sushi and other delicacies of Japanese cuisine.

As part of educational trip, we visited the Nagoya team, that had participated in First Lego League robotics competition in Australia, where my kids were competing as well.

It was a special experience to meet a group of Japanese counterparts, especially considering the fact that the Nagoya team finished the second in the world. The language barrier was a huge obstacle, since Japanese kids speak very little English. Luckily, their mentor Daisuke was helping with the translation.

Following the formal segment of their training program, we were graciously invited to dine at a traditional restaurant. We were arranged into two groups, seated at low tables on the tatami flooring. The kids were mastering cooking, barbequing and communicating through Google translator, while having fun and eating delicious food that they prepared by themselves on the barbecue.

A memorable end of our Japanese adventure – part 2, which lived up to the high expectations and standards befitting my most popular destination in the world.

Despite the fact that Japan is considered a relatively expensive country, with effective planning and efficient time management, it can be an affordable travel destination. With years, when prices in Europe have been rocketing, Japan has become even more accessible, since the local currency yen has been devaluating constantly.

Japan distinctly emerges as my preferred destination among all the countries I have visited, and articulating the reasons for this is not particularly difficult.

A unique combination of food, kind and honest people, technological solutions, high quality products and services are perfectly incorporated in hundreds of years of tradition. Additionally, the ability to create genuine friendship with the Japanese has elevated the entire experience to another level that is difficult to match anywhere else in the world.