South Korea

Visited: July 2023

Duration of visit: 10 days

Capital city: Seoul

Population: 52 million (2023)

Estimated reading time: 19 minutes

• Contrasts in megacity Seoul that has been continuously settled for over 2,000 years.
• Korean food is delicious with strong flavors, based on noodles and rice with a variety of options, but always served with plenty of appetizers.
• Visiting the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) – a buffer zone between both Koreas: a tourist attraction on the southern side, a death penalty area in the northern side.
• Climbing to the top of Namsan Mountain where the view over the downtown Seoul’s skyline opens.
• Serenity, peace, harmony and beautiful art of Haeinsa Temple – one of the Three Jewels Temples, representing the Buddha’s teachings.
• Disappointment at Daegu Herbal and medicine market.
• Jeju Island – beach, lava tunnel, volcano and driving slowly.

South Korea is one of the fastest growing economies in Asia, occupying the southern part of Korean peninsula, bordering with North Korea along the Demilitarized Zone and surrounded with Yellow sea and the Sea of Japan.

The country of K-pop, K-drama, Korean food, Korean skincare products, Korean cuisine, technological giants such as LG and Samsung, car brands Hyundai and Kia.

Somehow, Korea remained an unfulfilled wish for a long time, until, in the summer of 2023, an opportunity aroused to visit it with my family. Insufficient time available to explore the whole country forced me to rather fewer destinations and deeper exploration.

Seoul, as the capital city, is the main highlight of any trip, Daegu was added as another big city with an opportunity to visit one of the better preserved and still active Buddhist temples in the country, while Jeju Island is the country’s largest island being the favorite domestic destination with beautiful sandy beaches, lush vegetation, waterfalls, volcanos and plenty of other human created attractions.

The capital of South Korea since 1934 and the host of the Olympic games in 1988; Seoul is a modern city filled with skyscrapers, up-to-date infrastructure that all seem new, vibrant shopping districts, well-preserved palaces, never ending markets and tempting food courts where you can taste delicious Korean culinary.

Arriving at the airport everything works smooth; SIM card is inexpensive, data unlimited; money change straight forward, even though most of the banks are already closed due to late hour. I take the last Express train to the city center where, surprisingly, all restaurants and grocery markets are already closed at 11:00pm. I find a small convenience store at Seoul Station to purchase instant noodles soup that would help me to survive until next morning.

Although today the capital that is visited by tourists is predominantly a modern metropolis, Seoul has been continuously settled for over 2,000 years and it offers a number of historic sites and monuments, including four UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the Changdeokgung Palace Complex, the Hwaseong Fortress, the Jongmyo Shrine and the Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty.

Forest covers 64% of Korea, but despite being surrounded by nature, Seoul has the lowest availability of urban green space per capita in South Korea and much lower than in many other mega cities in the first world countries.

The Seoul Capital Area is the second largest metropolitan in the world with more than 25.6 million people in 2023, Asia’s most livable city with the second highest quality of life globally.

Seoul is perfectly connected with KTX high-speed trains that travel more than 300 kilometers per hour to all mayor cities in the country.

No wonder that Korea is so centralized and focused on the capital city, which is actually located only 50 kilometers from the border with North Korea.

Due to hot and humid summer, all forms of mobile cooling, including handy fans, are available. People are friendly, Korean/English signs are repeated so many times that orientation is easy. The modern area of DDP – Dongdaemun Design Plaza is my first stop.

A major urban development, designed by Zaha Hadid, offers a futuristic outline with powerful, curving forms of elongated structures that reflect a personal achievement of the famous architect.

In reality, it offers rather limited usable space dedicated to exclusive shops, bars exhibition hall, a conference hall, design museum, a lab and an academy hall, mixed with open and closed public areas. It is very picturesque, but not easy to find the right angle for a good photo.

In the midday heat, I lay down on a spacious bench in a shadow under the oval roof to enjoy for half an hour the classical music that comes from the hands of a street pianist who plays on a public piano.

Slightly different, but similar in inspiration, was my next stop – the street food stalls at nearby Gwangjang Market. Dating from the early 20^th century, this covered market that stretches from intersection of two main streets, has gained a reputation for having some of the country’s best street snacks.

Stir-fried rice cakes, dumplings, pajeon (savory green onion pancake), noodle soup, variety of kimchi, bibimpap, fish cakes and various other delicacies are prepared fresh.

A mix of foreign and local visitors, high hygienic standards, good options to seat and enjoy the food that is prepared on the spot, makes this market a superb experience. My kids probably enjoy it even more than me, since they came well prepared with a list of dishes they wanted to try.

Changdeokgung Palace is one of the Five Grand Palaces built by the kings of the Joseon dynasty (1392–1897). The second in order, the palace blends with the natural topography of the site instead of imposing itself upon it. Like the other members of the exclusive Five Grand Palaces, it was heavily damaged during the Japanese occupation of Korea and only partially rebuilt.

Surrounded by modern Seoul, it is an oasis of peace and one of the most popular retreats for foreign and local visitors. The combination of freely disposed buildings without a seemingly regular order, lakes, parks, walking paths and squares are in harmony with the environment surrounding them.

One of my favorite parts of Changdeokgung Palace are actually visitors who are dressed in the traditional that Koreans wear during celebrations – hanbok.

The costumes were rented from nearby businesses, which also provided them with traditional hair styling.

The embroidered patterns and the colors used on hanbok represented the ceremonial nature of the garment and social status. The hanbok consists of: the jeogori (shirt) and chima (skirt) – for women; jeogori and baji (pants) – for men. At the point when worn together, the thin top and wide bottom make a shape like a bell – a unique feature that separates it from other traditional costumes.

Before the introduction of Western styles to Korea, hanbok was simply everyday wear. Even on a hot summer day, there are so many visitors dressed in hanbok, that some scenes create an impression of old times. Posing to a professional photographer or a selfie is the most common scene that brings you back to the reality of today modern Korea.

Our guesthouse was located in Myeong-Dong area, a bustling shopping zone packed with international fashion brands, luxury department stores and local cosmetics shops; but also, casual eateries with dumplings and ginseng chicken soup; as well as an active night market where street vendors sell anything from Japanese and Thai dishes to Korean noodle soups, fried seafood and snacks.

It was an excellent location for easy logistic under Namsan Mountain and an ideal starting point to climb all the way up to the iconic N Seoul tower. An easy 25 minutes’ walk starts from our guesthouse through beautiful forest park, interspersed with hiking trails, picnic areas and some small temples. High humidity is easy to ignore with beautiful views that are opening through the treetops.

Seoul is a mega city, but until I reach the 279-meter peak of Namsan Mountain, I have no real idea of its size.

The 360⁰ panoramic view above the endless number of high-rise apartment structures, office buildings, skyscrapers, parks and shopping centers is beyond my imagination. Downtown Seoul’s skyline is simply spectacular.

The area around N Seoul Tower has become a popular date spot for couples and people in love. As in some other cities, lovers head to the tower to lock their padlock of love onto the railing and to dream that their love will last forever.

Thanks to TV dramas, entertainment programs featuring movie stars and travel guide books, this tower has converted to a must-visit spot, not only for Seoul residents, but also for visitors from other parts of the country as well as foreigners.

The padlocks of love are everywhere; on railings, fences, trees, chairs, tables; love notes are written in various languages. If you, by any chance forget to bring a padlock, and you are with a loved person, there are vending machine available.

The Korean peninsula is separated into two countries: North Korea (formally known as the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea) and South Korea (officially known as the Republic of Korea). Officially, North and South Korea are still at war, however, a ceasefire agreed in 1953 after a three-year war, is still in practice. But, unfortunately, a peace treaty or agreement has not been signed yet.

The demilitarized zone (DMZ) is a strip of land of about 240 kilometers long and 4 kilometers wide that serves as a buffer zone between the two countries, established under the Korean Armistice Agreement, when the ceasefire was agreed.

The 1953 military ceasefire line separates the communist system and planned economy of North Korea from the democratic and market orientated economy of South Korea.

It is not easy to visit the area without and organized trip, so I opt to join a group with a guide.

Our quite knowledgeable guide with reasonable English explains us about rules, history and key points of this area, which has been developed into the main tourist attraction in South Korea. I don’t feel very comfortable in the second part of the tour, because the guide constantly repeats the same facts and instructions. I later notice that Koreans are rather overprotective, speaking too much and constantly repeating the same sentences, not realizing that there is no need for it.

We visit different areas between two of the most heavily armed frontiers on earth: visitor center with military statues, Imjingak Park, the Freedom Bridge, the Third Infiltration Tunnel, and the DMZ Exhibition Hall.

A bird’s eye view of North Korea through the binoculars located on top of the observatory towers give us the feeling of being on a mission to secretly spy the most depressed country in the world.

Walking inside the 3^rd Infiltration Tunnel, an invasion route lying beneath the border of North and South Korea that the Northern army built, is quite spectacular as well. Tunnellers progressed 435 meters under the south side of the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ).

The incomplete tunnel is 1,635 meters long, approximately 2 meters high and over 2 meters wide. It runs through bedrock at a depth of about 73 meters below ground. It took four months to locate the tunnel precisely and dig an intercept tunnel. North Korea never recognized it was a spy underground passage that would be used to secretly attack the southern enemy.

We walk down a long steep incline that starts in a lobby with a gift shop. Photography is forbidden within the tunnel.

After complaining about the guide to DMZ, who was talking too much, confusing everyone, but not providing enough useful information, I receive an immediate apology from the tour company. I am offered a free guided tour of the Blue House, which I accept.

The Blue House served as an executive office and official residence of the president of South Korea from 1948 to 2022. Cheong Wa Dae (Blue House in Korean) has often been regarded as a symbol of the president’s imperial power and many previous presidents promised, attempted or requested to relocate the presidential office for the sake of de-authorization.

It wasn’t until the 20^th presidential election, when Yoon Suk Yeol officially announced the relocation in order to comply with his pre-election pledge.

According to my guide, the president’s wife, who is a relatively young, successful businesswoman, specialized in art exhibitions and didn’t want to live in the property, was the main cause, why the Blue House stopped serving as the president’s residence.

Now this complex of multiple buildings constructed largely in the traditional Korean architectural style with some modern elements and facilities is open to the public. I am guided through the State Reception House, where the presidents used to receive foreign delegations. The Main Office Hall, with the Oval Office, is the place where the Cabinet meetings were held and used for more formal meetings by the president and first lady as well as working office.

Sangchunjae is a venue for ceremonial events and informal meetings to introduce Korean style houses to foreign guests. Beside the Presidential Residence, it is the most beautiful building in the complex. With the surrounding gardens, green area, trees and peace, I could easily use it as a summer residence as well.

I wanted to pay a visit to another city outside Seoul to compare them and get a better feeling of the country. The third-largest urban agglomeration in South Korea after Seoul and Busan, with over 2.5 million residents, is Daegu. It was an economic motor of Korea during the 1960s – 1980s period and especially known for its electronics industry.

These days, the main attraction is Hyundai department store, where international and local upmarket brands are available. I visited it mostly because of the food court on the ground floor. The excellent food is not too expensive, and the sweet section is a paradise for gourmets.

Daegu is known for the Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine Cultural Center, which has a market as well as exhibitions tracing the history of local medical traditions. Established in 1993, the museum presents general and historical facts about oriental medicine development in the city of Yangnyeong through multiple exhibitions and interactive activities, suitable for kids as well.

I enjoy the interactive exhibition that are properly translated into English, the kids are entertained with modern technological animations. The opportunity to dress in traditional rulers’ clothes to pose for a perfect photo is a perk.

I am disappointed for not finding the famous market where all kind of traditional medicine ingredients would be on sale.

Instead, there are many specialized shops, scattered along the central area. It is not easy to explore them, if you don’t know exactly what medicine you are looking for or what disease you want to cure. The communication barrier is too big.

Haeinsa Temple is one of the Three Jewels Temples, representing the Buddha’s teachings. The temple was first built in 802; it has been listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995.

Easily accessible from Daegu, it is a great day trip by bus.

Walking around the various temples, observing locals and monks praying, making offerings and appreciating old customs in the afternoon, is a very calm, peaceful and colorful experience.

Surprisingly few visitors additionally contribute to the silence, which gives such locations in an exceptional natural environment an additional charm.

Realistic wooden carving, interesting Buddhist paintings, lanterns and statues are perfectly decorating colorful pagodas. One of Korea’s three largest temples, is also home of the Tripitaka Koreana, the Buddhist Scriptures carved onto 81,350 wooden printing blocks. The wooden books are engraved with Buddhist treaties, laws, and scriptures with no known mistakes, corrections or errors.

They have been housed in Haeinsa Temple for six centuries.

Exploring Jeju Island is a rewarding experience. Even though the sandy beaches are small and restricted with so many unconventional rules, we enjoy the water. As a Westerner, it is curious to observe how Koreans dress and what they do in the water.

Completely covered to protect sensible skin from the sun, they are not allowed to approach deep waters. Many lifeguards stand at the borderline inside the sea, where swimming is not permitted anymore and stop all intruders with warnings. The no-go area starts at less than a meter and a half deep.

Waterfalls, lava tubes and Seongsang Ilchulbong volcano are natural wonders of the island well worth exploring. Climbing Seongsang Ilchulbong volcano is an easy, as well as a rewarding hike. The clearly marked path is steep, but short enough to reach the top in 20 minutes. In the late afternoon there are less visitors, allowing to enjoy a quiet atmosphere on the crater ridge with beautiful view over the sea and residential zone bellow.

A rather bizarre experience on Jeju Island is driving a car. With the speed limit between 30 and 70 km/h, in two days of driving around the island, I manage to reach the average speed of 33 kilometers per hour. Numerous signs, restrictions, notices, colored zones and lines were overwhelming even for an experienced driver as I would consider myself.

The weather can change quickly from sunny and hot to rainy and windy. The roads are in perfect conditions, traffic reasonable, parking easy to find.

Korean people are friendly, helpful and hospitable. However, when you break a rule (even if it is unintentionally) they show dissatisfaction and express disapprobation openly. Their English can be limited and sometimes difficult to understand. Constantly repeating the same things and warnings often results in visitors not understanding what they actually try to say. I was occasionally confused or mislead unintentionally, but without serious consequences.

Koreans are some of the most educated people in the world; 68% of Koreans have graduated in a university or a similar educational institution.

This is the main reason why one of the poorest countries in the world in the late 1950s has transformed into one of the richest, real technological leaders.

I haven’t noticed people being very active in casual sport activities (maybe due to summer heat), but they are extremely active in online games and massive eSport events, international phenomenon through which millions of fans cheer their idols, who compete in more or less famous games in real time.

Koreans start counting their age from the day, when they were conceived, not born, so they are basically a little less than a year older by Western standards.

They strictly respect rules; and there are many; repeated, written in a different way, highlighted with signs and pictures, just in case. For me very confusing in many occasions, but it obviously works for locals. They would never cross the line.

Koreans like to eat. Food is the essence of everything. They love eating out with friends, families or coworkers. Eating out equals well-being.

Korean food is delicious, with strong flavors, based on noodles and rice with a variety of options, but always served with plenty of appetizers that are included in the price. Traditional Korean food includes subtle elements from Japan, Mongolia and China that have enhanced the flavor of Korean cuisine. Barbeque, stews, soups, side dishes and sweets have stronger taste, use more ingredients and tend to be spicier than in Japan.

The most recognizable Korean food in the world is kimchi, fermented napa cabbage, has its origins in the Three Kingdoms of Korea that ruled from 37 BC to 7 AD and is recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity Item.

Kimchi is present in almost all Korean meals whether it’s breakfast, lunch or dinner. It can be spicy, but when I washed it a little bit in water, the hot taste was easily reduced.

Other simple, but delicious dishes that I tasted on various occasions are:

• bibimpap – served in a bowl of rice, topped with a variety of vegetables, optional meat, kimchi and a sunny side up egg. By local customs, it is suggested to mix all the ingredients up before eating.
• japchae – glass noodles made from sweet potatoes, stir-fried and mixed with a variety of vegetables and optional meat. With a sweet-gingery flavor japchae is similar to Chinese chop suey.
• kimbap (Korean sushi). Japanese sushi usually features raw fish, seafood, vegetables and rice seasoned with rice vinegar, whereas, kimbap rice is seasoned with sesame oil and doesn’t contain raw fish. Kimbap fillings include meat or cheese, kimchi, ham and eggs. No wasabi or soy sauce is used with kimbap, which can be served with pickled vegetables and kimchi. Kimbap can actually refer to simple rice rolled in seaweed.

Beside tasting a variety of local food, the alcohol drinks are highly popular among adults. My favorite, Jinro Soju, is a clear, neutral spirit with about 24% of alcohol content, neutral spirit with sugar and citric acid, that can be made from rice, grain, or potatoes.

I could stay another 3 weeks easily and probably enjoy Korea as much as I have done it in the last 10 days.

Seoul charmed me with its variety of neighborhoods, from modern to traditional, lively or remotely quiet. Most part of the city seems as it was built in the last few decades.

People are pleasant, traffic manageable, public transport flawless, life inexpensive and streets not overcrowded. I was afraid to have problems tasting spicy and predominantly meat orientated food, but I quickly adapted to kimchi, new tastes and a huge variety of small appetizers that are always served before the main dish. Spiciness can be managed if you warn the waitress in advance.

Koreans have been struggling to find a place in the region surrounded by sea, limited by North Korea in the north, strongly attacked and oppressed by Japanese in various eras of their turbulent history and, at the same time, under constant threat of China. Even to these days, the relationship with Japan has been far from friendly, while the desire to unite with the northern neighbors is unheard due to the different politics of North Korea.

The current status quo might change. Probably not in the near future. But for sure, South Korea will keep growing fast, modernize, conquering the world with its technological solutions, culture and food. Excellent education and constant desire for improvement are the best guarantee.