Japan – Long trip

Visited: September 2007

Duration of visit: 17 days

Capital city: Tokyo

Population: 125 million (2023)

Estimated reading time: 22 minutes

• Arriving at the airport and immediately getting in touch with Japanese culture.
• Amazed by Tokyo – the biggest and the most spectacular city in the world: attractions, people, food, music, transport, engineering solutions, cars, etc.
• The mix of tradition and modern in the old capital Kyoto – geishas, temples, ryokan.
• Tasting varieties of Japanese food on markets, restaurants, homemade and small places only known to locals.
• Japanese tradition and technology – kimonos, Shinkansen, karaoke, geishas.
• Reflecting the atomic bombs impact in Hiroshima.
• Being guest at my friend Tomohito parents’ house near Hashimoto.
• Night out in a tofu specialized restaurant.
• A special gift to my Japanese friend – a helicopter flight over Yokohama.

Japan was simply too expensive for my budget while exploring the Asian continent at the beginning of the century and was not part of the Asian Big Tour from Australia, through Southeast Asia and China to India.

The ideal opportunity to visit the country of Samurais occurred during a three-week break in 2007, while I was living and working in London. Despite high expectations and a long wait, Japan exceeded all my expectations, and immediately ranked at the top of my list of the most popular destinations in the world.

In the summer of 2023, I organized a surprise journey to Japan for my kids, who guided us toward more modern and contemporary attractions.

In this article I describe my first trip to Japan in 2007: A conglomeration of trains, people and neon lights in Shibuya, the largest fish market in the world, guests of Tomohito’s family in Hashimoto, dinner in a tofu restaurant, traditional Kyoto, the impact of atomic bomb drop in Hiroshima, Shinkansen, Japanese cuisine.

More articles about my Japanese adventures are available here:

I prepared in advance, announcing my upcoming visit to a Japanese friend Tomohito and my girlfriend’s friend Emiko, just in case they would have time and will to show us around or accompany us to a traditional restaurant.

I purchased in advance the Japan Rail Pass, which allowed me to utilize all trains for two weeks without any restrictions, in advance. These special passes were available only to foreign visitors, to be are purchased outside of Japan before the trip.

Probably the best deal in the country: being eligible to unlimited travelling at over 200 kilometers per hour on a national network of bullet trains for a few hundred dollars.

We arrived at the Narita International Airport. I found arrival forms to register at the immigration checkpoint and beside them were reading glasses for farsighted hyperopia. Real luxury and a special experience happened to me during the usage of elaborated airport toilets, where I played with numerous buttons on the electronic bidet.

Hot water, cold water, power of the jet and its inclination are only some basic functions in the advanced technology. Finally, a dryer provides various temperature settings and automatically concludes the process.

The immigration officer greeted us by stating:

“Welcome from Slovenia and Panama!” as he examined our passports.

“I visited both countries and I hope you will like Japan as much as I did your homelands. Welcome to Tokyo!” were the welcoming words in broken English.

I was surprised to meet somebody who visited Panama as well as Slovenia as much as with the kindness received by the immigration officer.

Tokyo is the biggest and the most spectacular city in the world, offering such a variety of activities, sights or events that I could stay here for a month or longer to digest it properly. From the busiest intersection for pedestrians in Shinjuku, to the world’s first and only robot-operated hotel, restaurants featuring robotic dining experiences and the highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants renowned for their culinary excellence.

The vending machine capital in the world is one of the safest cities, which inspires with a mix of latest technology, avant-garde displays and unique fashion culture, as well as historical shrines and temples that provide a tranquil sanctuary away from the hustle and bustle of urban life.

What about walking around at night around the illuminated streets of Akihabara, a vibrant district that has gained worldwide recognition as a center for manga and anime culture? Or having fun in karaoke bar with your friends or business partners?

I have a deep appreciation for New York, London, and Mexico City. However, Tokyo stands as my favorite city in the world.

For several days I drove, walked and explored the Japanese capital, visited some of its main attractions, got to know the way of life, logistics and organization. Exemplary organized public transport is affordable and relatively easy to use despite the incredibly sophisticated information, maps and instructions on ticket vending machines.

Street signs, boards, public transport stations and instructions for purchasing tickets are in most cases also available in English. The Japanese have a limited understanding of the English language and are even less proficient in speaking it.

Shibuya houses two of the busiest railway stations in the world, Shibuya Station and Shinjuku Station.

Shinjuku Station, recognized as the busiest railway station globally, holds a place in the Guinness Book of World Records for accommodating the highest volume of passengers. All railway routes meet at this location, creating a crucial stop for commuters who work in Tokyo’s high-rise buildings and commercial areas.

Walking around the station surrounded by so many people, who confidently show that they know what they are doing, might be stressful at the beginning. But I soon realized that the system of human traffic work perfectly and following the signs brings you to the target.  Shinjuku station is not only a transportation hub, but also a small city with shops, restaurants, supermarkets and other services, used by thousands of passing commuters every day.

Shinjuku attracts visitors with its renowned department stores, fashion centers, shops specializing in consumer electronics, cinemas, and performance venues. The district is also celebrated for its vibrant lights and nightlife, particularly in the entertainment area of Kabukicho, although numerous restaurants and pubs can be found elsewhere.

Infinite number of people eventually pours over into the nearby streets, which is most noticeable on the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing, Shibuya Scramble Crossing.

With as many as 3,000 people crossing at a time per green light (every 2 minutes), it serves an estimated 260,000 pedestrians per day on week days, 100,000 more on non-working days and up to half a million people on the busiest days.

In spite of these mighty numbers, I was surprised by the little level of noise in the area. Rather than by the quantity of pedestrians, I was amazed by strange posing, selfies, videos and live reporting from regular people, tourists and influencers. Three large video displays affixed to adjacent structures, along with static billboards, create a vibrant setting for prominent announcements amidst the bustling crowd.

Additionally, the vicinity is replete with fashion retailers, diverse dining establishments, and an array of colorful boutiques and shops.

Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo is the largest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world, opened in 1935. Approximately 900 wholesale vendors manage small stalls featuring fish, seafood, and fruits in the area accessible to visitors. Auctions and most of the processing of the fish take place in the inner area, which I was not able to visit.

The outer markets feature a combination of wholesale and retail establishments that provide kitchen utensils and supplies, as well as groceries and seafood. Adjacent to the seafood vendors, numerous restaurants, particularly those specializing in sushi, offer dishes made with fresh ingredients, a clean setting, and affordable prices.

I had the opportunity to sample freshly prepared sushi at a quaint restaurant. I was fortunate to be seated beside a Singaporean couple who were well-informed about their preferences when it came to ordering fresh sushi.

I enjoyed a selection of some unique sushi, all of which were exquisite in flavor: unagi (eel), uni (sea urchin), maguro (bluefin tuna), among others.

PS: Tsukiji market closed in 2018, with the businesses of the inner market relocated to the new Toyosu Market.

I visited Toyosu Market in July 2023; however, the scale was significantly reduced compared to the original market. The ambiance is predominantly tourist-oriented, attracting numerous international visitors.

I explored numerous other landmarks in one of the most densely populated cities globally; as a symbol of the nation’s post-war rebirth, Tokyo Tower, offers spectacular views from observation deck at 150 meters above the ground; the oldest-established temple Sensō-ji; Meiji Shrine, dedicated to the Japanese imperial reformer and his wife, who lived at the turn of the 19^th to the 20^th century.

Luxury brand shops, unique buildings and extravagant show windows in Ginza district. Nightlife with colorful neon lights and, of course, variety of restaurants with delicious food and innovative drinks were part of my daily highlights.

The Toyota Automobile Museum presents the evolution and cultural importance of automobiles globally, encompassing a wide range of vehicles, from the earliest gasoline-powered cars to modern electric models. For me, the most interesting part was the short drive of Toyota’s futuristic i-unit vehicle, intended for personal mobility, especially developed for Expo 2005.

The i-unit is a compact, single-passenger four-wheel Toyota prototype. It combines elements of a microcar, a motorcycle, and a vehicular exoskeleton. In theory, this futuristic Toyota design offers individual transportation that is suitable for road use and also allows interaction with people walking. The suitability of the prototype for broader application will become evident over time.

After a delicious dinner in a traditional restaurant shabu-shabu – Japanese hot pot, featuring paper-thin slices of tender meat and fresh vegetables cooked together in a large open pot, it was time for karaoke. Another Japanese invention that has spread around the world.

A building resembling a hotel provided various types of rooms that would suit a variety of groups which can rent them for a certain period of time. We hired a small space, since we were only three people.

A soundproof room was equipped with microphones, loudspeakers and a television screen, projecting video and lyrics. We just had to choose a favored song from an extensive selection of tracks in the most popular languages. In a relaxing and private setting, time seemed to pass quickly, facing with the fact that we needed to repeatedly extend the initial 30 minutes to nearly two hours.

It is always nice to have a friend in a country that you visit, but having an opportunity to stay with locals in Japan is even more exciting experience. Tomohito, our host, resides in the city of Hashimoto, located about an hour to the west of Tokyo. His family welcomed me and my girlfriend as new family members.

Tomohito, his parents and grandmother devoted their time to us and explained many local customs. The home kitchen provided us with delightful culinary offerings. Since the Japanese do not speak English well, direct communication was difficult, but with Tomohito’s translation we managed that too.

The highlights of staying with a Japanese family were dressing my girlfriend in Tomohito’s mother’s wedding kimono and an invitation to a special restaurant on the last day of our stay in their home.

It required about an hour to properly dress Nivia in a kimono, as well as to style her hair and adorn her with accessories. Even the grandmother, who had been engaged in the process throughout, was notably impressed with the final outcome.

During the final evening of our stay with the family, we were invited to a restaurant specialized in dishes centered around tofu.

The elders occupied one table, whereas Tomohito and the two of us were seated at a separate table. I didn’t know what to expect, but each dish that was served was more delicious than the previous one. Each plate was accompanied by a different type of sake.

Tofu in broth, baked, devoid of contents, accompanied by various dressings, …. all offered remarkable flavors. They concluded the meal with exceptionally fresh, tender, and warm tofu, which stood out as the highlight of the evening.

The incredibly tasty experience with tofu dishes lasted for several hours and it was definitely one of the highlights of tasting Japanese cuisine.

Experiencing the cuisine in Japan and the everyday dining culture represented one of the most significant contrasts compared to other parts of the world.

Each visit to a restaurant, food market, or street stall was a special and memorable occasion: extraordinary variety of dishes, flavors, methods of preparation, serving or ordering. Shopping in grocery stores, choosing delicious and perfectly packed or served desserts is exceptional.

The extraordinarily high prices associated with attractively presented giant sized fruits that exhibit flawless shapes or tantalizing flavors are a fundamental aspect of Japanese cuisine as well. Regrettably, my constrained budget prevented me from purchasing certain luxury fruits, such as melons.

Ordering food in most of Japanese restaurants is very easy these days, since photos of dishes, English translations or pads are available. Additionally, eye-catching artificial food models have been displayed in stores and eateries nationwide, serving as representations of the menu items offered in the restaurants.

The so called Shokuhin Sampuru – plastic food, is a type of food replica made of plastic. Plastic food has a long-standing history in Japan, dating back several centuries, but its popularity surged in the early 20^th century. The practice originated when Japan was a significant importer of food, and plastic replicas enabled restaurants to visually present the imported dishes to customers.

Initially, paraffin was the material of choice for creating these replicas until the mid-1980s, when it was replaced by new material, which more durable and effectively replicates the appearance, texture, and shape of actual food.

Using Japan Rail Pass, I was able to travel long distances in a question of hours at no extra cost. Extended bullet trains network in Japan covers all mayor cities. Therefore, I preferred to be based in Tokyo or Kyoto, making long day trips, instead of changing the accommodation various time.

The Shinkansen was established to link remote areas of Japan with Tokyo, the nation’s capital, in order to promote economic growth and development.

Operating at maximum speeds ranging from 260 to 320 km/h, Shinkansen has become one of the most heavily utilized high-speed rail systems globally since its inception over fifty years ago.

My first experience with Shinkansen was truly unforgettable. I was in the restroom of a smaller train station when the entire building shook for a brief moment before settling down. It was not an earthquake. I hurried out of the restrooms and saw my girlfriend doing the same. We exchanged glances and simultaneously exclaimed:

“This was a Shinkansen!”

In just a few seconds, a Shinkansen that was not scheduled to stop at the station raced past at full speed.

The journey by Japanese bullet-train is characterized by efficiency, speed, precision, and simplicity. The seating is quite comfortable, the acceleration is perceptible, and the ride is exceptionally smooth. Usually the trains were not busy; only once I couldn’t find the seat due to the late evening ride on a public holiday.

The trains are impeccably clean, consistently punctual, and provide a high level of comfort. The stations are clearly marked in both English and Japanese, featuring platform indicators that allow passengers to position themselves correctly in preparation for boarding the appropriate section of the train.

If my hotel in Tokyo was a modern, tiny, perfectly calculated, organized and dimensioned, in Kyoto I preferred staying in a traditional Japanese inn which typically features tatami-matted rooms, communal bathrooms, poorly insulated wooden walls and lacks of modern facilities.

Ryokans have existed since the 8^th century, serving as some of the earliest hotels in the world. Since ryokans are usually bigger, located in houses rather than tall buildings, and more expensive than regular hotel rooms, they are difficult to find in Tokyo and other large cities.

Kyoto served as an ideal location for a stay in a ryokan, which was a small establishment featuring only three rooms. The landlady explained us the house rules and prepared breakfast every morning.

I immediately fell in love with minimalistic furniture, appreciating simplicity and fundamental designs over technology. I took off the shoes before opening a sliding door and stepping onto the tatami floor.

Shoji sliding doors or walls are made of tough, translucent paper manufactured of wood fibers. Being old or new, they offer a unique charm in modern interior architecture.

Tatami refers to a specific type of flooring material commonly utilized in traditional Japanese rooms. These mats are manufactured in standardized dimensions, typically measuring approximately 0.9 meters in width and 1.8 meters in length, with the length being twice that of the width.

Historically, tatami mats played a crucial role in defining the dimensions of a room, as they are designed to be arranged without any cutting.

Throughout history, Kyoto has been ravaged by numerous conflicts and blazes, yet its unparalleled historical significance spared the city from being targeted by atomic bombs and it managed to avoid destruction throughout the World War II.

Today, the old capital of Kyoto, which served as Japan’s capital and the emperor’s residence from 794 until 1868, is home to numerous temples, shrines, and other historically invaluable buildings.

Kyoto presents is a unique mix of tradition and modernity in architecture, lifestyle, customs and various forms of transport.

I stayed in Kyoto for four days to explore the old town, enjoyed hot springs, tasted delicious food and paid a visit to some of the most important landmarks in the city and its surroundings.

The list of attractions and activities in Kyoto is long and varied. From temple walks, bamboo plantation tours and feeding wild monkeys in Arashiyama’s bamboo forest to discovering samurai armor, weapon suits and ninja outfits in Samurai & Ninja Museum.

Tasting food at Nishiki Market, visiting pagodas or strolling through gardens during a day and bathing in a hot spring (onsen) or public bath (sento) in the evening are excellent.

The Kyoto Imperial Palace, with its serene Japanese garden was the former palace of the Emperor of Japan for six centuries until the the political revolution in 1868 moved the capital to Tokyo.

Apart from tasting food at the market and various restaurants in the old town, my most memorable moments in Kyoto were walking through the Thousand Gate at Fushimi Inari Shrine and trying to catch a look at geisha at Hanami-koji-dori in Gion.

Dedicated to Inari, the deity of good harvest and success in business, Fushimi Inari Taisha is the head of all Japanese Inari shrines. Situated at the base of Mount Inari, which rises to an elevation of 233 meters, the shrine features trails that lead to several smaller shrines. The route ascending Mount Inari is adorned with numerous stone altars (otsuka) and is characterized by around 10,000 torii gates.

Each of the tori has been donated by companies and individuals from around Japan since the 17^th century, as divine auspice for business and personal prosperity. About 800 are lined up to form the Senbon Torii, creating the impression of a tunnel.

I stopped many times along the way to observe the incredible sight of the vibrant orange gates topped with black roof, inscribed with messages and prayers. At some points along the walking trail, there are a few restaurants and souvenir shops selling drinks, food and tsujiura senbei, a type of fortune cookie believed to date back to the 19^th century.

Although many visitors approach the Romon Gate at the shrine’s entrance, they seem to abandon the climb up the mountain at early stages. As I ascended and ventured further, the number of visitors diminished, allowing me to fully appreciate the tranquility and the bond of this exceptional sanctuary with the surrounding natural environment.

Highly trained performers known as geishas are hired to bring a unique flair to formal meals, private events, and special celebrations. Contrary to numerous baseless rumors and misrepresentations found in certain literature and films, they do not engage in prostitution. Rather, these women have dedicated years to perfecting their traditional Japanese arts to become exceptional entertainers.

Young women, typically aged 15 to 20, undergo a five-year training to become a geiko. Throughout this period, they go by the name of maiko. Approximately 100 geiko and 100 maiko are believed to be active in Kyoto.

They usually don’t live far from where they work so, in theory, they walk from home to work. I was trying to catch a glimpse of geishas during both visits of Kyoto, frequently walking or sitting around Hanami-koji-dori in Gion area.

Although I was unable to see any geishas in 2007, my second visit in 2023 proved more fruitful, as I spotted a young woman adorned in a simple white kimono with long sleeves, her face painted in traditional white makeup and her hair styled in a classic manner. She moved with short, brisk steps while wearing a contemporary version of the traditional wooden elevated sandals known as geta.

Based in Kyoto I made day trips to distant places, which were conveniently accessible by Shinkansen as a day trip. These excursions allowed me to explore various aspects of Japan’s heritage, including a castle and a traditional village, both renowned for their distinctive architectural styles and innovative engineering techniques.

Himeji Castle is recognized as the most exemplary surviving instance of traditional Japanese castle architecture from the early 17th century. It features a complex of 83 rooms equipped with sophisticated defensive mechanisms and protective devices that date back to the beginning of the Shogun era.

This structure is a remarkable artistic achievement in timber, harmoniously combining functionality with aesthetic appeal, as demonstrated by white-washed earthen walls and the intricate relationship between the various architectural forms and roof levels.

Shirakawa is a village situated in Gifu Prefecture, renowned for being home to Shirakawa-gō, a small, traditional settlement that exemplifies the gasshō-zukuri architectural style. Alongside Gokayama, it has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Gassho-style residence is regarded as one of the most important and rare types of farmhouse architecture in Japan. It is distinguished by its sharply sloped thatched roof, resembling two hands joined in prayer.

The construction is exceptionally sturdy, and the unique properties of the thatching enable it to withstand and manage the heavy snowfall during winter. These homes are expansive, typically comprising three to four levels beneath the low eaves, and were historically crafted to house large families while offering sufficient space for diverse trades.

Hiroshima is one of the two Japanese cities, which were largely destroyed by atomic bombing during the World War II. On 6^th and 9^th August 1945, the US army dropped two atomic bombs over Hiroshima and Nagasaki respectively.

The atomic bombs, which are still the only instance of nuclear weapons being used in an armed war, killed between 150,000 and 246,000 people, the majority of whom were civilians.

Although Japan surrendered to the Allies on the 15^th August 1945 and the Japanese government signed the instrument of surrender on the 2^nd September, effectively ending the war, the atomic bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki left an indelible mark on human history. The short-term and long-term consequences of bombing are so terrible that they clearly showed how easy it would be to destroy human life on earth in the case of a nuclear war or more extensive nuclear conflicts.

The bomb’s destructive capacity was immense, annihilating nearly everything within a two-kilometer radius. The Hiroshima Peace Memorial, also designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, commemorates the bombing. Prior to the attack, the location that is currently known as the Peace Park served as the political and commercial hub of the city. On the fourth anniversary of the bombing, it was decided to preserve the site, opting not to redevelop it but to convert it into facilities dedicated to peace memorialization.

The Peace Memorial Museum documents the history of Hiroshima and the development of the nuclear bomb, focusing particularly on the events prior and on the 6^th August, when the bomb was dropped and its catastrophic effects on human life were felt. The personal accounts shared are deeply unsettling, acting as a powerful reminder of the importance of valuing peace.

The A-Bomb Dome is the remnant of the former Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, which was used to promote Hiroshima’s industries. When the bomb exploded, it was one of the few structures that survived, and it continues to stand today.

Walking through the area marked by the unfortunate event filled me with a strong sense of anxiety, fear and wonder at how far civilization has come in its desire for revenge, victory or supremacy.

Despite the fact that 60 years have passed since the traumatic scenes, which are recorded in photographs, narratives, videos and material remains, my emotions were still deeply affected.

On the other hand, it is perhaps even more unbelievable how humbly the Japanese people accepted such a cruel punishment, commemorated it appropriately, and have been conscientiously ensuring that such events would never happen again.

Wanting to treat our Japanese friend, and his family in thankfulness for their extensive hospitality, I opted to present Tomohito with an evening helicopter ride over Yokohama.

The brief 15-minute journey elevated us above the bustling metropolis just as the final rays of sunlight illuminated the downtown area, adorned with its opulent skyscrapers.

Witnessing the city from above, we were all struck by how even a perfect city could appear more magnificent from the air. The roar of the engine, the swift pace, and the tilting motions during sharp turns added to the exhilarating experience, making it truly unforgettable.