Thailand

My Thailand travel summary:

Visited: November 1999

Duration of visit: 40 days

Capital city: Bangkok

Population: 63 million (2000)

Thailand travel blog reading time: 14 minutes

• Bangkok – with humid heat, traffic, long distances, and polluted air.
• Patpong night show where artist show their capabilities to entertain adults.
• Relaxing on the beach with bizarre interruptions in Ko Samet.
• Surprising Nan – laid back, peaceful and free of tourists.
• The exposure of elephants’ strength, capability of movement and entertainment in Surin.
• Unremarkable Millennium New Year celebration in Chiang Mai.
• Damnoen Saduak Floating Market and Wat Phra Pathom Chedi near Bangkok.

Beautiful beaches, limestone cliffs, friendly locals, and shining temples draw millions of tourists to Thailand each year.

Never colonized by Europe, Thailand has over 40,000 temples, with more than 30,000 still active. In the past, all young Thai men, including royalty, became Buddhist monks before age 20, at least briefly.

Although not official, Buddhism is followed by over 90% of Thais, making Thailand the world’s second largest Buddhist community.

Bangkok is not only the world’s hottest capital, with an average temperature of 28°C, but also the heart of Southeast Asia. Thailand, with its 76-letter alphabet, giant golden Buddha, and Red Bull origins, is simply incredible.

Thailand was part of the Asian Big Tour from Australia, through Southeast Asia and China to India. During this 15-months long trip I visited most of the countries in the region and spent almost a month and a half travelling around Thailand by buses, trains and boats.

My early arrival in Bangkok was unexpected and unplanned. After being denied entry at the Cambodian-Thai border, I had two options: return to Phnom Penh for a visa or continue to Bangkok to regularize my stay.

Returning was not an option, as it would take 3 to 4 days and require repeating the same journey. I believed the immigration officer was wrong and that no visa was needed for overland entry.

I continued by bus straight to Bangkok without proper entry clearance. At the only checkpoint on the road, a soldier reviewed my passport full of stamps and visas from various Asian countries. He didn’t know what he was looking at and did not notice the missing Thailand entry stamp.

A visit to the immigration office can be a nightmare, but Bangkok was different. After I explained what happened, a receptionist directed me to a specific counter.

An official received my case, but then moved me to another area for foreigners. He took my passport, wrote something in Thai, and disappeared for an hour.

“Am I going to be deported from the country immediately or tomorrow?” were my thoughts.

A young man in a neat uniform returned and asked me to sign a document in Thai that I could not understand. He then wrote Thai text on my passport visa page. I was assured I could stay for three months and cross the border multiple time freely.

Later, the message in my passport opened all doors when I left and entered Thailand. Border and airport officials gently saluted me and wished me a pleasant stay or trip.

I needed a break to relax and plan further travel, places to visit and things to do.

I chose Ko Samet, a small island with soft white-sand beaches, five hours from Bangkok and 30 minutes by boat.

The bungalows sat slightly away from the beach in a small grove, with two apartments in each. Each complex used a powerful generator that shook part of the island at night.

The next morning, I moved to another bungalow farther from the noise, but a neighboring couple replaced the disturbance. A dispute broke out between them and the girl refused to let her boyfriend into the condo. After sleeping outside all night, the next morning the man attacked his girlfriend. Following the fight, they moved out.

The next roommates were a trio of two young women and a boy. I don’t know how they fit into the small beds, but they were quiet and polite.

A drummer arrived later and played loudly at night, until an elderly tourist confronted him and he fell silent. He left in disgrace the next day.

Besides the inconveniences, it was nice to watch people swimming in the sea before dark. Then tiny jellyfish appeared and started stinging swimmers, forcing them out of the water. The next day, they joined locals in watching new arrivals unaware of the situation.

Overall, my experience at Ko Samet was exceptional. I planned further Thailand travel adventure, while swimming in turquoise waters, relaxing under coconut palms, and enjoying delicious local seafood.

On the third weekend in November, the bustling city of Surin in northeastern Thailand becomes a city of elephants. These giants come from all over Thailand to show their strength, skills, and tameness, trained by dedicated trainers.

Entry to the central stadium came with the cheapest ticket, offering a basic view of the arena. I watched elephants marching and playing football from a distance. Later, I persuaded a guard to let me into the backstage VIP area, where I got a closer view and better photo opportunities.

In 2000, Thailand had only 3,000 to 4,000 wild elephants in its forests, a sharp decline from around 100,000 trained working elephants in 1900.

Wild elephants are trained from age three to five, with training lasting about five years. They work mainly in forestry, pushing, carrying, and pulling heavy loads, usually moving in groups. Football with a one-meter ball is just for fun.

The strength of a single adult elephant was shown by a rope-pulling demonstration. One side was tied to the elephant’s leg, while 50 Thai men pulled with all their strength. The elephant still dragged them effortlessly.

Another 50 men joined, forming a group of 100, and they finally matched the elephant’s strength.

Despite their size, elephants are not as destructive as they seem. They can run up to 23 km/h, and their ground pressure is lower than a deer’s, making them suitable for forest work. To demonstrate control, elephants carefully walked over trainers lying on the ground without stepping on them.

Because an elephant’s working life can last around 50 years, young elephants are usually trained by two caretakers. An older experienced one and a younger one who continues the care on a long term. Sometimes trainers work as father and son.

Under Thai law, elephants retire at the age of 61 and are released into the wild. Since they often live beyond 80 years, they spend about a quarter of their life in freedom.

Although commercialized, the show offered me a rare chance to see hundreds of elephants and understand their importance in Thai society.

During my Thailand travel adventure, Nan was visited mostly by Thai tourists. Nevertheless, I found it a pleasant, laid back, off-the-beaten-track stop on the way to Laos.

Although Nan lacks major landmarks and top atrractions, I found two remarkable temples in the town center. Wat Phumin features well-preserved murals of Buddha’s life and local scenes, while Wat Phra That Chang Kham is a 15^th-century temple decorated with elegant gold motifs on blue background.

I stayed in a simple, quiet, clean, and comfortable guesthouse. We walked barefoot through the wooden barracks, slept on mattresses on the floor, shared a common kitchen. I even enjoyed a hot shower for the first time since Saigon.

Nan felt very different from the rest of Thailand, with hardly any foreigners around. Locals were friendly and smiled whenever they saw a backpacker.

Delicious food, a vibrant market, and thousands of birds singing from electric wires made me stay four days in Nan.

I rented a motorbike for a few dollars and drove on perfectly paved roads in the valleys surrounding Nan. The most memorable places to visit is Sao Din, a geological park inside Sri Nan National Park. Its striking sandstone formations were shaped by wind and water when this area lay beneath the ocean.

I entered the new millennium in Chiang Mai, the former seat of the Lanna kingdom, surrounded by misty mountains and colorful hill tribes. With countless things to do and places to visit, Chiang Mai revealed something interesting at every turn. From temples and botanical gardens to tribal villages and national parks.

An excellent guesthouse cost just US$4 a night, and I enjoyed great, inexpensive food. Local cooks served fresh, flavorful dishes quickly, and the simple comfort encouraged me to stay longer than planned.

New Year celebration disappointed me. I expected much more in Thailand’s second-largest city. People spent the final hours shopping and driving through busy downtown streets instead of celebrating.

At midnight, traffic stopped and fireworks lasted a few minutes. I couldn’t find live music, party or public celebration. Only foreigners wished each other Happy New Year.

Sukhothai was the capital of the first Kingdom of Siam in the 13^th and 14^th centuries. Its ruins, now preserved as Sukhothai Historical Park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, lie about 12 kilometers from modern Sukhothai Thani.

The historic area includes three closely linked towns:

• Sukhothai as the political center,
• Si Satchanalai as the spiritual hub,
• Kamphaeng Phet for military defense.

At its peak, the kingdom had around 80,000 inhabitants, and Buddhism flourished with many ornate monasteries. he kingdom later declined after Ayutthaya rose and was eventually abandoned in 15^th century.

As elsewhere on my Thailand travel adventure, I rented a motorbike to travel from the town center to the scattered historical sites. Although the rebuilt spiky stupas with plain red bricks didn’t impress me much, I still enjoyed the exploration.

Entrance fees felt high by Thai standards, so few visitors came, especially compared to other popular historical sites. Along the way, I stopped at roadside stalls and particularly enjoyed naturally sweet boiled corn.

Back in Bangkok for the second time, I couldn’t help but admire the beast that emerged from Thailand’s capital. I searched for the right word to describe the chaos: traffic jams, polluted air, blocked roads, concrete buildings, nervous people, and constant noise.

“The monster” could be ideal description of this megacity that I am able to compare to Manila in certain aspects.

Yet Bangkok, the Big Mango, also feels like a tropical New York – a fascinating melting pot of people.

Guesthouses along Khaosan Road were fully booked, including the one I stayed in before. After extensive searching, I found a quiet room with a private bathroom away from the main road.

The heat and humidity were intense, forcing me to take constant showers just to feel more comfortable and refreshed.

Khaosan Road is Bangkok’s most famous area, internationally known as a hub for budget travelers offering almost any service imaginable. A Thai writer once described Khaosan as “a short road that has the longest dream in the world“.

Khaosan Road offers guesthouses, hotels, budget hostels and real dumps. It also has bars, nightclubs, and restaurants serving everything from simple drinks to wild parties.

The vibrant area, where Thais join travelers for parties, bargains, shopping or just mingling. Thais massage can be miserable or extremely rewarding, fake t-shirts or watches excellent deal or money thrown away. I found spring rolls, pad Thai, and banana pancakes at street stalls at the lowest prices in the whole city. Prostitutes and go-go dancers entertain for any taste or pocket.

The variety of food, affordable bargains, and international atmosphere make it one of the most vibrant spots in the region. Even without particular highlights or attractions, Khaosan is a must place to visit and a great area to stay when in Bangkok!

I used Bangkok to organize my further travels around Asia, since my bank account had received unexpected Santa Claus donations, so I didn’t need to return home yet.

Booking a flight to Bangladesh with a stopover in Myanmar felt tense and stressful, and I would never want to repeat it.

In the morning, I booked and paid with my credit card using a manual slip. The agency promised to issue my flight tickets by 6pm after coordinating with the airline.

When I returned in the afternoon, the owner said he would only issue the ticket if I showed visas for both countries. With only three days left before departure and no progress made, I became angry.

The situation escalated quickly as the travel agent lost his temper.

The owner locked the agency, left me inside, and closed the business. The police never arrived. After 15 minutes I collected the torn slip, opened the shutter, and walked out.

Fortunately, my credit card was never charged. I later bought the flight tickets at another agency without any problems.

Visas for Myanmar and Bangladesh were issued quickly and easily. At the Myanmar embassy I met other travelers, while the Bangladesh consulate felt almost empty.

The clerk could not find Slovenia on the list, so I suggested matching Croatia’s visa terms. He agreed, and I received my visa in 30 minutes for just 3 USD. One of the easiest and cheapest in my travels.

Patpong is an entertainment district in Bangkok, mainly attracting foreign adult visitors. I wanted to explore its internationally known red-light area to see professional adult shows.

When I arrived in Patpong in the evening, I thought I was lost. Families and children walked around bargaining, while vendors offered fake Lacoste shirts, Rolex watches, and Ray-Ban sunglasses.

I joked with the sellers, asking where the action was and whether I was at Patpong or a textile market. They looked at me strangely and pointed me toward the edge of the stalls.

Neon-lit bars lined the sidewalk with provocatively dressed women of all ages and appearances. I couldn’t guess who was a man, a woman, or a ladyboy.

Club promoters immediately offered me a variety of shows and drinks, including dancing, massage, and entertainment from men, women, or trans performers. I entered one of the brightly lit bars and nearly froze in shock. Three muscular men stood at the bar, while a dozen more performed on stage wearing only golden thongs and red ties.

“Have a sit my friend. You came to the right place. No photos are allowed, ….” a beautiful travesty with deep voice invited me to accommodate at the bar.

“Sorry my friend, I think I am at the wrong place, I am an old fashion backpacker, preferring girls to boys!” I quickly defended myself.

“Don’t be shy. You don’t know what is good for you yet. You are young and innocent. Stay here for the best night in your life!”

I left the male striptease bar and continued my walk through Patpong’s red-light district more cautiously. I learned that most shows required payment, which I was not willing to commit to, as performances would not start without enough paying visitors.

After some time, I finally came to a bar where the lady at the entrance offered me the most exclusive show, with beautiful girls, dance, love in tuk-tuk and fun.

“No entrance fee, but you need to buy some drinks. It will start in 10 minutes! Crazy stuff!””

I was eager: “How do you know that it will kick off in 10 minutes and how can you guarantee me the crazy stuff?”

She replied with charm and confidence: “I am the star of the show and will perform the main act of the night.”

I sat further from the main stage to avoid being involved or called up during the show. The performance felt dull, with bored dancers in minimal outfits moving slowly across the stage.

The provocative show included smoking, shooting arrows at balloons, playing with balls, pulling out a razor, and drawing with markers.

All acts were executed by woman vagina. The woman I talked to was really the star of the show!

The audience, mostly foreigners, laughed, applauded, and asked for more. The final “love in a tuk-tuk” act was underwhelming. Two bored performers pretended to make love, softly touching and hitting each other prompting laughter from the crowd.

Two of the most memorable landmarks in the vicinity of Bangkok that I visited were Damnoen Saduak Floating Market and Wat Phra Pathom Chedi. They have little in common except being popular tourist destinations easily accessible from Bangkok.

Wat Phra Pathom Chedi is the tallest stupa in the world, rising 120 meters with a 235-meter base. Covered in golden-brown tiles, it dates back to around 193 BCE and was restored in the 1850s, making it one of Thailand’s most important Buddhist sites. One of my favorite attractions in Bangkok.

The next stop on my Thailand travel adventure was Damnoen Saduak Floating market, Thailand’s most famous floating market. I found it crowded with tourists and a typical tourist trap, despite its appearance in several films.

Vendors were selling fruits, vegetables, herbs and street food from boats, now mostly catering to tourists.

Sellers cook traditional Thai dishes on boats and hand them to customers on passing boats or along the shore. Pad Thai, spring rolls, fried rice, and Chinese-style dumplings remain the most popular.

I was lucky to arrive early before the crowds. Later, I arranged a boat ride to the quieter Khun Phitak market, away from tour groups.

Thailand, known as the Land of Smiles, welcomes tourists with warmth, respect, and strong infrastructure. It offers many activities, convenient travel, and rich cultural and historical experiences. It is ideal for beginner travelers, much like Ghana in Africa or Costa Rica in Central America.

Thailand offers many sensational beaches and islands, spectacular parties, lively Bangkok, a wide variety of food, and affordable luxury. In 2000, the country stands at a crossroads, balancing its cultural identity with rapid tourism growth.

It can either remain a unique blend of Western and Asian influences or fall into over-commercialization and the social challenges of mass tourism.