Cambodia

Visited: November 1999

Duration of visit: 14 days

Capital city: Phnom Penh

Population: 12.1 million (1999)

Estimated reading time: 21 minutes

• Old infrastructure, constant floods, colorful Royal Palace and kind people in Phnom Penh.
• Exhibition of Khmer Rouge regime atrocities in Security Prison 21.
• Friendly people, playful and respectful children, the natural beauty of upright walking women with long black hair.
• Exploring Angkor Wat – the largest religious monument in the world.
• Epic drives on roads from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap and further to Thai border.
• The Khmer Rouge regime, which officially lasted from 1975 to 1979, implemented one of the most extreme transformations of social order in world history, resulting in the deaths of three million innocent people and terrorizing the nation until 1998.

Cambodia was part of the Asian Big Tour from Australia, through Southeast Asia and China to India. During this 15-months long trip, I visited most of the countries in the region and spent over two weeks travelling around Cambodia.

Having faced disappointment in Vietnam due to the aggressive demeanor of its people and the absence of options for solo travel, I looked forward to a completely contrasting experience in Cambodia. Although the civil war had concluded 25 years before my visit, the consequences and enduring effects on the ravaged country remained evident.

When a nation tries to battle the poverty in search of security and new identity, tourism is of secondary importance. There were still dangerous, inaccessible areas, especially in the north, and there were hardly any tourist attractions or landmarks with the exception of Angkor Thom.

There were no local buses that would take me from Saigon in Vietnam to Phnom Penh in Cambodia. I travelled with a direct bus, accompanied by some funny Japanese backpackers. The first segment to the Cambodian frontier, including the border and emigration control, was smooth and straightforward.

After changing to a Cambodian minivan, we continued a bumpy ride on predominantly dirt road to Phnom Penh, where we arrived 5 hours later. The ride was quite an adventure. Constant rain didn’t limit kids along the road to wish us warm welcome in an extremely non-intrusive and polite way. They kept playing football, jumping in puddles, having fun and playing with water.

Cambodian men are of much darker skin, women are not aware of their beauty.

The initial stop involved crossing a river via a ferry. The kids surrounded us immediately, speaking some basic words in English and joking in a very polite form. One of the Japanese friends was laughing with his mouth open, when a baked bug was put into his mouth as an experiment. His fun time was over, but everyone else burst out laughing for the rest of the trip.

Upon taking power in April 1975, the Khmer Rouge regime set the stage for one of the most radical changes in social order in world history. Their goal was to transform Cambodia into a Maoist agrarian cooperative with an exclusively peasant population. All city dwellers were forced to move to the countryside, where they worked twelve or more hours a day, tilling the land, digging canals or arranging irrigation systems.

All offenders were punished by immediate execution. The country was completely isolated from the rest of the world.

This regime persisted for four years, until the Vietnamese army liberated Cambodia from its oppressive rule. The damage was indescribable: 3 million of innocent victims, economic backwardness, lack of education and thousands of refugees scattered across the country.

After losing power in 1979, members of the Khmer Rouge retreated deep into the virgin forest in western Cambodia along the Thai border, from where they continued attacking innocent fellow citizens with the help of the Thai government, destroying villages, violently controlling the sale of wood and setting land mines. After the death of the ideological leader of the Khmer Rouge movement, Pol Pet, in 1998, Cambodia was finally reborn, emerging as a free and normal country.

It would be difficult to compare Phnom Penh to any other capital that I visited so far in Asia: poor infrastructure, non-existing high buildings, most of the roads in very bad conditions, old basic and rundown houses, surprisingly big number of cars and pick-ups, tons of motorbikes and gas stations at every corner.

The choice of goods is huge and the central market is well stocked with a variety of vegetables and fruits. People are friendly, slightly reserved, quiet and dressed properly in clean clothes. Taxi drivers and moto-taxis offer their service politely. If no interest is shown, they move on wishing me a good day.

One of the few outstanding buildings is the Royal Palace of Cambodia, which serves as the royal residence of the King of Cambodia. 3.00US$ opened me access to the inside walls of splendor, divided in four main compounds. In particular, the brightly colored roofs are something special.

• The Throne Hall was used to carry out duties of the king, generals and royal officials. Today it is used as a place for religious and royal ceremonies, as well as a meeting place for guests of the King.
• The Khemarin Palace is used as an official residence of the King of Cambodia, separated and inaccessible to general public.
• For me the highlight was represented by astonishing Silver pagoda whose floor is paved with silver tiles. In the middle, the splendid golden Buddha temple is standing.
• The Inner Court – the central plaza area, around which the buildings of the palace were built gradually over time.

Throughout the Khmer Rouge regime, numerous members of the Royal family were captured, transported by truck to an undisclosed location, and ultimately executed. Meanwhile, others were confined within the Royal Palace, isolated from the outside world and compelled to cultivate their own food for survival. It was not until 1993 that the monarchy was reinstated and the name of the Cambodian state was altered to the Kingdom of Cambodia.

Around 93% of the Cambodian population practices Buddhism; there are an estimated 4,400 monastic temples distributed across the nation.

In the capital city of Phnom Penh, Buddhist temples can be found at regular intervals of a few hundred meters. Monks, adorned in vibrant orange robes, distinctly contrast with the everyday citizens.

They stand out particularly in the morning, when they walk the streets around the city collecting donations. In groups of two or three together, they usually stop in front of a store or private house, wait a few seconds for the owners to bring contributions, before moving on. They walk barefoot, regardless of the weather.

In the National Museum, I met two young Buddhist monks who invited me to their modest home – a small room in a crumbling building. We talked about all kinds of topics for more than two hours. What captivated my attention the most was the rationale behind their decision to enter the temple and commit themselves to Buddhism, along with the various restrictions that accompany this path.

“If we hadn’t become monks, we would have been conscripted into the army. Since we are peaceful, we are not ready to fight or carry weapons!“, was their simple explanation.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, which exposes some of the atrocities of Khmer regime, is one of those places that should have not existed anywhere in the world. The location of this ex-interrogation and detention center was previously occupied by a secondary school, which was used as Security Prison 21 by the Khmer Rouge regime from 1975 until its fall in 1979.

An estimated 20,000 people were imprisoned, cruelly tortured, maimed or killed.

Pictures, narratives, records and remains from prison cells show the inhumane, unreasonable behavior of the regime, which, according to my opinion, acted completely irrational, caused significant harm to the Cambodian nation and left a lasting impact for decades.

At the beginning of the third millennium, access to Angkor is anything but easy, as if they wanted to open it up only to the most enduring explorers. If I put aside expensive, easy and, for real backpackers, also uninteresting airplane connection, the only options are river boats and pick-up trucks. After a short thought, I decided to travel by land: 290 kilometers from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap looked like a decent, slightly longer trip. At least on the map!

“Hey Farang, the road is bad and too dangerous for foreigners!“, boat agents warned me, but I didn’t listen to their advice and chose the wobbly pick-up truck at the market.

I always go for the one with more passengers, believing that it would be the first one to leave. Minutes turned into hours. Following breakfast, I had the opportunity to enjoy a snack and engage in conversation with my fellow travelers, allowing us to become well acquainted. It was not until nearly noon that we commenced our journey towards the former Khmer capital.

We passed successfully a few military and police checkpoints. We even overtook a couple of deteriorated, ancient vehicles on four wheels. The first part of the surreal road seemed to be ahead of time, almost empty, prepared for the era when automobiles and buses will replace bicycles, motorcycles, and carts as the primary means of transportation. Japanese financial aid was invested smart.

The initial fiddling was soon over, as we reached a section that, judging by its appearance, was built back in the days when cars hadn’t existed yet. Even this poor road would have worked out somehow, if the tire on our pick-up truck had not blown out when overtaking some kind of a tractor.

An hour later, we joined to the convoy of trucks stuck in the softened mud after the monsoon downpour.

We were moving slowly, testing the capacity of drivers in the most extreme conditions, when all the skills had to be used in order to avoid soft mud, which could easily detain us for long time.

When we finally arrived at a hotel in Siem Reap, it was almost midnight. Given the considerable fatigue I was experiencing, I made the decision to cancel the sunrise observation at Angkor Wat for the upcoming morning.

There are two outstanding architectural creations in Southeast Asia that are almost incomparable with any other similar formations from the past, far and wide. After travelling through practically all of Asia, I can confirm that when we speak about the cities of Bagan in Myanmar and Angkor Thom in Cambodia, no superlatives are exaggerated.

The facts are known: in the northwestern part of Cambodia, one of the poorest countries in Asia, the unique remains of the famous Khmer empire have been preserved.

The size and shape of Angkor has hardly any comparisons in human history.

More than thirty sanctuaries, in addition to markets and various structures, bear witness to the splendor of the former Khmer Empire, which governed these regions from the 9^th to the 15^th century with relative continuity.

Khmer architecture was inspired by Hindu images that appeared especially on so called wats – Buddhist temples and places of worship. These structures represent the mountain as the center of the world, featuring open entrances to the east and three temporary exits in other directions of the sky. The surrounding area of Angkor was transformed by a combination of ditches and lakes that changed flat overgrown landscape into vast rice fields.

A few months before my arrival, the enterprising managers of the Angkor Archaeological Park banned tourists from riding motorbikes on their own, so it is necessary to hire a taxi, either on two or four wheels. Despite the weather forecast not being optimistic, I still awakened my preferred moto-taxi driver-guide, Vimal, from his sleep.

Still in the dark, we entered through the main checkpoint, where they charged a steep 20.00US$ entrance fee for a one-day ticket. Some minutes later we stopped in front of the mystical palace of the Khmer rulers.

Angkor was built in the first half of the 12^th century, during the reign of King Suryauarman II. It served as a funerary temple for the ruler himself and was dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, with whom the ruler identified himself. The sanctuary is surrounded by a wide moat and, with an area of just under a square kilometer, is actually a small town.

Water shafts and moats encase the principal buildings within the city, symbolizing the fierce ocean on one side and offering a protective barrier against enemy assaults on the other.

We only waited for the first sun rays, when the outline of Wat S revealed its mightiness. Huge! Fantastic! Simply perfect!

“Let’s move on, in the afternoon we will come back for the Wat. Let’s visit first the other, smaller temples!”, I shouted to the driver.

A few kilometers of driving brought us to the Bayon area, which, due to its complex corridors, steep stairs and fifty-four Gothic towers decorated with more than two hundred grimly smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara, ranks second among Angkor’s monuments. The magical faces look in all directions and are only visible up close, while from a distance the temple resembles a pile of rubble.

The Bayon Temple, characterized by its elaborate passageways, steep staircases, and 54 Gothic towers adorned with over 216 somberly smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara, holds the distinction of being the second most significant monument in Angkor, following Angkor Wat. At a height of four meters, the calm and magical stone faces of Brahma, representing inner peace, look out towards all four cardinal directions. These exquisite features are best seen up close.

From inside I heard drum beats and simple singing. I looked around, but couldn’t spot any visitors. Locals in trance, as if to make contact with their ancestors or gods, were performing some kind of ritual. Old wives dance to a fixed rhythm, husbands accompany them by beating drums, children giggle shyly. The smell of incense and the presence of clean-shaven, white-robed nuns added to the magical feeling between the centuries-old black walls of Bayon.

The frowning faces carved into the stones seem more friendly, maybe even smiling.

“This is how it must have been once upon a time,” my guide whispered to me,” when the capital city of Angkotjul was home to around 750,000 people devoted to their ruler and available to fulfill his dream of building a city fitting for the noblest of deities.”

“The most important building material in Angkor is laterite, which is characterized by being relatively soft when worked and it can therefore be shaped without much difficulty. Later, it becomes hard and resistant to wind and rain like any other stone. The door jambs and decorative details are made of finer sandstone and limestone.”, Vimala explained to me during lunch.

In the afternoon, he drove me on his uncle’s motorbike to an area where we observed in what condition the ruins of the Khmer Empire were found in the 19^th century, when French explorers rediscovered Angkor Thom.

They came upon ruins covered with overgrown tropical forest vegetation. To make it easier for later visitors to imagine what the situation was like back then and what the power of nature was, they left Ta Prohm temple overgrown with trees.

Long roots twist between the ruins, the stone remains are torn down by newly grown trees, which in a few decades will dislodge the stone blocks and crack the walls. The mighty trees with roots several meters high, are some of the most photogenic motifs.

Where there are tourists, there are stalls and souvenir sellers. The atmosphere is tense, there is more supply than demand. Too many stalls with a lack of newcomers have created an inexorable brawl for clients among vendors which sometimes seem too aggressive or even disturbing. In Cambodia, I am not used to this kind of intensity often received in other countries around Southeast Asia.

Nevertheless, I could still classify Cambodia as a trainee country in tourism as far as the entrepreneurship of the locals is concerned. Comparing it to Vietnam or Indonesia, people are until now, very honest and helpful.

While heading back to Angkor Wat in the late afternoon, I witnessed the gathering of war victims along the main avenue. Among them were individuals with deformed limbs, the blind, those who had suffered from minefields, as well as beggars and destitute children.

The real image of Cambodia after the senseless civil war is anything but gratifying. Landmines, poverty, large families, natural disasters and corruption sealed the fate of many descendants of the famous Khmers. A call “One-dollar Mister!“ or just an outstretched palm at the feet of the almighty tourist is a cruel reality. I cannot help everyone, but some change is highly appreciated.

Angkor Wat is without a doubt the pinnacle of Angkor art, and with its size, architectural sophistication and location, the most enchanting at sunset.

Access along a half-kilometer avenue surrounded by sculptures of snakes led me past the former libraries and two swimming pools to the front of the central three-story complex. Dominating the sanctuary is a tall pyramid, which I climbed using steep steps. Four towers are situated at the corners, and the central fifth tower, soaring to 65 meters, enhances the uniqueness of this artistic masterpiece.

The central pyramid is surrounded by gallery walls, which are interspersed with elaborate reliefs depicting scenes from Hindu mythology, royal ceremonies, warrior campaigns, sky, heavens and the Earth. At the end of the Khmer Empire, in the mid-15^th century, Angkor Wat served as a Buddhist sanctuary.

The presence of Buddhist monks among the visitors is quite notable. I find myself accompanied by a group of four young boys who have resided in a nearby monastery for a considerable period, during which they have been studying the teachings of Buddha.

“At first I became a monk with the intention of avoiding conscription, only later did I feel what Buddhism really means to me and I have remained faithful to the ascetic life to this day.”, the bravest of them explained to me in broken English.

Since many come from remote villages, where their parents encourage them to work in farming instead of studying at school, a common reason for becoming to monks is also the opportunity to get a proper education. Monks often reach a point after their education where they petition their superiors for the opportunity to return to everyday life.

“I want to start a family and live a normal life, but until then I will follow all the rules that my religion dictates!”, was a logical explanation.

During training time, they learn many values that they will never forget. Perhaps this is precisely the fact that practically all Asian countries with a dominant Buddhist religion are relatively safe, and there are hardly any pickpockets or robbers.

The colorful attire of monks in vivid orange and red robes is a remarkable sight; yet, from their standpoint, as a European, I also attracted significant interest. We took photos of each other and said goodbye after watching the sunset together.

Darkness covered the mysterious Angkor. After a long day, it was time to rest, because I had the last hard test in Cambodia ahead of me.

It seems that road connections around Phnom Penh have improved significantly with international financial aid, while the western part, where guerrilla activity had been concentrated, remains a literal disaster.

From Siam Reap to the village of Poipet, on border with Thailand the distance is only 140 kilometers, but the ride takes an average time of eight to twelve hours.

It depends mainly on the weather and driver’s ability to cope with unhuman conditions. Until the plans to build a new road on this route in the near future are not materialized, the ride from Siem Reap to Poipet remains one of the major adventures in this part of Asia, reminiscent of the Camel Trophy expeditions.

A pick-up truck picked me up in front of the hotel at 6:00am, but we didn’t leave the town before seven o’clock. We were driving up and down Siem Reap for an hour to find the other ten missing passengers. In addition to us, a rival vehicle was also doing the same tracking, which meant a struggle for every potential candidate travelling westward.

As soon as the driver’s assistant saw someone who might be headed in the direction of our destination, he began to persuade him and drag him onto the trunk. After more than an hour, our driver gave up. Only half full, like a competitor on the same route, hoping for better luck along the way, he decided to leave for Poipet first.

There were four of us huddled in the cabin on uncomfortable seats, suitable for at most three small Cambodians. Two young Buddhist monks wrapped in bright orange robes were sitting in front with me. In the cargo area, modest farmers, whose heads are always wrapped in red and white checkered scarves, crammed between luggage, chickens and fruits.

The initial five kilometers of the route featured an asphalt road that permitted standard driving speeds; however, beyond that point, the surface transformed to macadam.

With each passing kilometer, the holes grew larger and deeper; water was covering the fields, driveways and finally the road itself. The pits slowly reached a depth of up to a meter and a half; our pick-up completely sank into them on various occasions.

Villagers living along the road repair only those sections that would otherwise be impassable even for bulldozers. They throw some stones as a filling into the small lagoons to later direct the vehicles along the hidden track.

The water exceeds one meter in depth and unskilled drivers would easily stick in the mud from which they would be pulled out with the help of a rope. Our driver constantly offered a tip to road workers, otherwise they would simply block the road and don’t let anyone pass.

Fortunately, our cowboy was one of the most skilled drivers; always with a smile on his face. He overtook the beginners and elegantly overcame a large pond without any help.

All other vehicles stopped and waited for help of a tractor or bulldozer to be pulled through apparently unpassable barrier.

The panorama along this road is typical of the monsoon period, when it rains for several weeks in a row. Basic, one-space wooden houses on stilts to prevent flooding during the monsoons serve as bedrooms, kitchen and living rooms, all in one. Due to many small streams, children wash themselves during the most popular game – swimming or jumping into the water.

The main activity of adults is agriculture on rice fields and fishing. They drag small fishes to the surface with bamboo sticks or nets. Along with beef and rice, fish is the main ingredient of monotonous meals. I almost didn’t notice fruits during this time of the year. Vegetables do not grow in the swampy area, bread is too expensive.

Families have many dark-skinned children who walk around completely naked until the age of six or seven. Innocent looks and curious faces quickly gathered around our truck, when the rear tire burst upon hitting a sharp rock. Despite the fact that the main road runs directly in front of their cottages, they rarely, if ever, see white people.

I offered them some fruits from my rucksack, but they backed away in amazement and only after a few minutes of looking around they approached to barang again. We ate a large pomelo – grapefruit together, laughed, had fun and talked in our own language.

Due to the increasingly widespread tourism in Asia, the authenticity of children has already become a real rarity. In Cambodia this is not yet the norm; moreover, even the adults are extremely honest and kind to foreigners.

We arrived to Poipet at 5:30pm. Despite feeling dusty, fatigued, and experiencing discomfort from a spinal swelling, I was thoroughly pleased with the day’s journey that immersed me in the reality of Cambodia. I passed through the bureaucratic formalities at the border and took a modern bus featuring television and air conditioning for my journey along the highway to Bangkok.

But Thailand is a completely different story!

I hadn’t had much expectation before visiting Cambodia in 1999, which probably added to my fantastic impressions that filled my eyes and heart through two weeks of travelling around the country.

In my opinion, the most beautiful females in Asia, incredible welcoming kids, warm people, combined with colorfully dressed Buddhist monks, historical site of Angkor and some adventurous rides on roads and rivers are only several reasons why I enjoyed it so much.

It is difficult to comprehend that the horrific acts committed by the Khmer Rouge could occur against human beings, especially people that seem so inoffensive and humble.

The country has just started to open to tourism with basic infrastructure. I am convinced it will change completely when Westerners will find out the potential for development; economic or touristic.

Cambodia will be a completely different country in 20 or 30 years from now!