Indonesia

Visited: May 1999

Duration of visit: 40 days

Capital city: Jakarta

Population: 212 million (1999)

Estimated reading time: 18 minutes

• Beautiful green landscape, rice terraces with exotic palm trees and sandy beaches of Bali are interrupted by aggressive screaming Hello Mister and pushy selling.
• Boat trip from Lombok to Flores with a stopover in Komodo island.
• Climbing volcano Gunung Rinjani in Lombok.
• Funeral ceremonies of Torajan ethnic group in Sulawesi.
• Exploring remote and less visited Borneo island.

Indonesia is a country of extremes: hosting one of the most corrupted leader of all time – president Suharto; the country with the largest young population in the world (165 million people under the age of 30), is also home to the largest Muslim population; the largest archipelago; the largest gold mine and the third largest copper mine in the world; the largest volcanic lake in the world – Lake Toba; the largest Buddhist temple in the world – Borobudur; Java is the most populous island in the world; corpse lily – the largest flower in the world.

When I visited Indonesia in 1999, the country was living one of the worst economic crises with devaluated local currency rupiah. The sudden loss of value made it extremely affordable to travel around.

I never paid more than 6,00 US$ for a decent room, a few bucks got me a dinner, a motorbike for the whole day or any other services.

Indonesia was part of the Asian Big Tour from Australia, through Southeast Asia and China to India. Over the course of this 15-month journey, I visited most of the countries in the region and dedicated 40 days to traversing numerous islands among more the more than 17,000 that comprise Indonesia.

The island of Bali was my first contact with Indonesia and Asia in general. Filled up with anticipation, stories of other travelers and knowledge gained from guidebooks, I continued my journey from Australia. My luggage was only a small backpack, since my larger luggage was dispatched further to Slovenia, accompanied by an Aboriginal didgeridoo.

In midday heat and high humidity, it wasn’t easy to search a bus that would take me from Denpasar airport to the nearby town of Kuta.

The taxi drivers requested only 15,000 rupees (less than 2.00 US$); nonetheless I decided to travel as the locals do by taking a minibus, which was 30 times less expensive.

Yes, Asia is much cheaper than Australia. Indonesia is a bargain!

Bali is one of the most popular islands in Southeast Asia due to its beautiful green landscape, rice terraces, exotic palm trees and sandy beaches. Conquered by foreign tourists, providing excellent infrastructure that combines with predominant Hinduism religion, it offers an outstanding opportunity to enjoy the best of Indonesia, before it becomes too commercialized.

After all photos, video and commercials I had seen about Bali, my expectations were to find the real paradise on earth. My first impressions were not very positive. Even though the locals were kind and friendly on many occasions, the Indonesian people stand out in my memory mainly because of their ongoing harassment, screaming “Hello Mister! Hello Mister!” and intrusive offering of all possible products and services: hats, watches, souvenirs, weed, tours and similar stuff.

Following several days of relentless harassment, the greatest relief came when I found myself alone, enjoying a sense of calm. Unfortunately, in Bali, peace is primarily found in a hotel or restaurant.

Most tourists, who stay in isolated resorts, explore the island on organized tours and stay disconnected from the local daily life, probably encounter a significantly different experience. But this is not the way I travel around.

I found the indisputable charms of Bali in beautiful nature, vivid rice terraces, charming palm trees and peaceful Hindu customs. My personal highlight was renting a motorbike and immerse in the bustling traffic with an endless number of scooters or motorbikes.

I journeyed through the majority of southeastern Bali, exploring ancient Hindu temples, beautiful nature, dotted with coconut palms, land shaped into rice terraces and magnificent beaches.

Bali was probably the easiest introduction to Asia, since many Western commodities are available, people are used to foreign visitors and prices are still reasonable. However, I enjoyed much more the rest of my journey on other islands, that vary in religion, culture, food, habits and form of travelling.

Following a week of bargaining, innumerous attempts of scams, offers for all possible services and unnecessary goods on every step, the persistent locals compelled me to retreat to the less touristic areas of archipelago Nusa Tenggara.

Nusa Tenggara includes the islands east of Bali, starting with Lombok and ending with Timor. This area is hiding some of the most beautiful parts of Indonesia in the form of volcanoes, coral reefs or white sandy beaches.

After a few days of lazing on the beaches of the fast-growing tourist town Senggigi, I skipped the extremely popular Gili Islands and decided to climb volcano Gunung Rinjani.

With 3,726 meters above sea level, Gunung Rinjani is the third highest peak in Indonesia and the highest mountain in Lombok island. The starting point for the ascent is the small village of Senaru at the foot of Rinjani.

During the time of tourist shortage, due to the election campaign that was taking place in Indonesia, Senaru looked abandoned. Unexpectedly, the only foreigners were four Slovenes on a day trip from Senggigi. It was nice to catch up with fellow citizens and exchange a few words in my native language.

In the guesthouse where I slept, I hired camping equipment and a guide named Lah. The next morning, we set off at 5:00am as there was a chance that it would start raining in the afternoon. Following an entire day of ascent, the anticipated rain finally arrived an hour before we reached the shelter.

During the following days, the weather conditions were similar: sunny in the morning, rain in the afternoon. “The dry season is no longer what it used to be a few years ago,” the friendly locals explained me. I was soaked daily; nonetheless, the sunny intervals facilitated a quick drying process.

Two-day ascent led us to the top of Gunung Rinjani crater. At sunrise, we were rewarded with a stunning vista of the surrounding islands and the green lagoon nestled inside the crater.

I spotted a minor volcano within the lagoon, known as Gunung Ban, which unexpectedly erupted in 1994, spewing lava and ash; it continues to emit smoke to this day.

The descent from the top of the crater to the lagoon can be dangerous, through wet, extremely steep path. The local guides, wearing modest sandals and carrying 25 kilograms of load on their backs, were descending in a playful manner, and we attempted to follow them to the best of our capabilities.

Hot thermal springs in the immediate vicinity of the base camp provided relaxation for tired muscles, while my guide Lah prepared a delicious dinner. Resting in the hot springs and looking at the picturesque lagoon of the volcano restored my strength.

Returning to the valley was the easiest part of the expedition, which was even continuous rainfall could spoil. I didn’t care for being wet as long as my step was solid. Every hour of decent the temperature was rising. I was unable to determine if my wetness resulted from the mist, the rain, or the high levels of humidity.

I continued my journey in a passenger’s boat that took me to Komodo Island and Flores Island. We were a mixed international crowd of travelers, crew and a pilot, who were boarding one of the most basic vessels that would take us through an unforgettable adventure in the following days.

Our trip started with negotiations of a bribe with port officials, so several hours delay was expected.  Apparently, we were not allowed to sail from the port until all the fees were paid.

Given that there were merely seven of us, in addition to the crew, and the ship’s maximum capacity is 15 passengers, we experienced complete comfort on the deck, which functioned as a lounge, dining area, and sleeping quarters for the subsequent five days.

The luxury of the bathroom was replaced by the so-called mandi (a barrel of water and a small container for pouring). Every day we swam twice over coral reefs, enjoyed the view of the romantic sunrises & sunsets and had fun watching other boats, where passengers were squeezing together like canned sardines.

During the first day, the see was as calm as a lake, but at night the ocean showed its power. We were tossed from one end of the deck to the other, most of the passengers vomited the food eaten during dinner into the sea. It was already late, when big waves began to flood the deck, while the boat was moving abruptly from one side to another.

We were forced to move to a neglected and dark subdeck. The romantic murmur of the sea was replaced by hum of the old engine; the smell of salt was exchanged with the stench of gasoline.

The night was long, I was hardly able to close my eyes.

We survived it all and were rewarded by visiting Komodo Island the next day. The island is distinguished as the home of the Komodo dragon, the largest lizard on the planet.

Komodo dragons are large lizards that can grow to lengths of up to 4 meters, weigh as much as 130 kilograms, and live for approximately 50 years. They are reminiscent of prehistoric creatures with dark, hard, jagged skin.

While walking around the island, I saw them resting in the shade and moving lazily. When they are so calm, you can approach them to a few meters, but when they run after their prey (wild boar, bison or game) it is better to avoid them. With their strength, power and capabilities they dominate the ecosystems in which they live.

A few more dives among corals, fish, sea snakes and electric skates, and we were already anchored in the port of Labuan Bbajo on the island of Flores, from where I continued my voyage on land.

It seems that the road engineers in Flores did not consider long-term implications when they planned the road and laid asphalt in the island’s hilly landscape, prioritizing ease of construction over creating straight roads that could facilitate faster travel for scarce vehicles. Even in dry season, our bus needed four hours to cover 100 kilometers. From October to April, when heavy rain is a daily occurrence, the journey is even slower or questionable at all.

The ascent to volcano Kelimutu, the biggest attraction of Flores, is only an easy, short walk compared to climbing Gunung Rinjani on Lombok island.

At half past three in the morning, a truck driver knocked on the door of my bungalow and instructed me to get ready for a drive to the top. I was freezing for an hour on a transformed truck, clinging to the fence and admiring the driver’s skills as he led us up the narrow, winding road to the top of the volcano.

Unprepared for the cold conditions, and even less so in the dark, I walked the last part to the top at 1,639 meters above sea level, with help of a guide, while freezing in a tropical country.

The first sunrays illuminated three volcanic crater lakes that differ in color: turquoise, black and brown lagoons lay at a distance of less than one hundred meters.

Changes in color and temperature are attributed to volcanic activity and the fluid dynamics occurring at the vents in the lake bottoms. As these colors are subject to continuous variation, it is expected that they will look entirely different in a matter of months.

One of the locals served me a hot tea that drove blood through my veins immediately. A red glowing ball appeared from behind the hills to the east in a magnificent sunrise. I listened to the singing of rare birds and enjoyed the peace at the top of Kelimutu.

The local community believes Mount Kelimutu is sacred and donates fertility to nearby nature. Even if their beliefs may not always fulfill, the crater with colorful lakes is truly magnificent.

The second largest town of Flores – Maumere – introduced me to two extreme assets of Indonesian society: huge passenger ships and vans.

For the first time, I set foot on a massive passenger ship designed for almost three thousand passengers, operating between islands under the banner of the Pelni company.

Holding a ticket for the cheapest economy class, I naively searched for a predesignated numbered berth among the five levels of this vast vessel, before ending up on a wooden, open-air deck. It turned out to be one of the best spots for stargazing, avoiding crowded interiors, cigarette smoke and constant children crying.

During the all-day ride, I felt like a movie star as many annoying passengers wanted to greet me, talk to me and analyze me from head to toe. Water was raising almost up to the ankles in dirty toilets, rice was the only food available and at six in the morning a Muslim prayer sounded loudly out from the speakers, strategically located to cover all areas of the ship.

Indonesia is the country with the largest number of Muslims in the world, therefore the calling of Allah must be audible in every corner.

Bemo or minibus, is a small van with seats for up to eight passengers transformed by longitudinal benches, in which resourceful drivers can accommodate up to 15 commuters. In the Maumere area, giant speakers are installed under the benches, from which old disco hits from the eighties sound pretty exciting.

To my surprise, no one complained about discomfort, loud music or dangerous driving of young chauffeurs. I joined the crowds and just enjoyed the discomfort of portable discotheque, squeezed among other local voyagers.

Funeral rituals of Torajans indigenous ethnic group in South Sulawesi are unique.

Usually, two funerals are held for a deceased relative: the first, immediately after death and the second, attended by hundreds of people and lasting for several days, when the family raises enough money for a lavish ceremony.

The ceremonial funeral is often held weeks, months, or even years after the death. In the belief that a deceased relative can take material wealth with him to another world, graves are very well provisioned. Depending on the position on the social scale, unreasonably large quantities of animals (especially pigs and buffaloes) are sacrificed to honor the deceased person.

At the medium-sized funeral that I attended, about 50 pigs and 15 buffalos were slaughtered, which represents an important economic sacrifice for the family, despite the fact that many animals are donated by friends or neighbors. The brutal killing of animals in the central square, surrounded by traditional massive, buffalo horn-shaped roof houses known as tongkonan is not suitable for sensitive and compassionate visitors. The slaughter is accompanied by dancing, music, conversation and mingling. Young boys catch spurting blood in long bamboo tubes.

It was fun to watch the ceremony with people dressed in traditional clothes, welcoming even foreign visitors, kids playing around, …. but when the slaughter started, it was time to run away.

The magnificent celebration reaches its peak as meat is cooked in bamboo sticks and served alongside rice.

When the time for burial finally comes, the Torajans employ three distinct methods:

• The coffin may be laid in a cave, in a carved stone grave or hung on a cliff.
• If the dead people are wealthy, they are often buried in a stone grave carved high out of a rocky cliff. The grave is usually expensive and takes a few months to complete.
• If the deceased is a baby who has not begun to teeth yet, the coffin is usually hung from ropes on a cliff or from a tree.

Undoubtedly, the Torajans believe that their relatives continue with the afterlife in these tombs.

While many foreigners were leaving Indonesia during conflictive election campaign, I retreated to Kalimantan, the Indonesian portion of the island of Borneo, far away from tourist crowds. In the following ten days, I met only two foreigners.

I found it necessary to utilize all knowledge of Indonesian language in conversation with the locals, given that only a small fraction of them could speak even simple English.

Kalimantan is at the center of a dispute between various interests of foreign investors and local dignitaries after the discovery of oil and natural gas. The original inhabitants of the Dayak tribe were forced to retreat deeper into the interior of the rainforest. There are many reasons for aggressive political campaign, conflict of interest and strong opposition to the current leaders.

On the last day of election campaign, the streets of the largest city in South Kalimantan, Banjarmasin, were flooded with supporters of the most popular party PDI. During unprecedented procession, it became clear to me, how the elections rally in Indonesia are conducted.

Thousands of political fanatics dressed in red T-shirts huddled in passing cars, trucks, motorcycles or carts. At a first glance, they looked like hooligans. When I wanted to photograph them, they relaxed, forgot about politics and shouted at me:

“Ronaldo, Ronaldo!”

Thanks to my haircut I felt worshiped almost as their party president. For a moment, I caught the attention of just about every security guard, soldier or protester who wanted to be on my photo.

All political engagements came to a complete halt on election day. The official results were announced only two months later, when even the most ardent fanatics forgot what it was all about.

If roads along the Kalimantan coast are among the best in all of Indonesia, in the interior of the inland they are virtually non-existent. Navigating on large boats and small canoes, I traveled along the river to the only major settlement, Melak. From there on, my plan was to rent a motorbike to visit the Dayak tribe in the nearby villages.

Dayak people are one of the native groups of Borneo, that due to the huge territory and isolation, while spreading around the islands, started to segregate in many subgroups, speaking over 170 different languages, adopting different religions. They live in so called long-houses and wear large earrings in their ears.

Dayak’s superstructures sometimes exceed 200 meters in length, functioning similarly to a small village. The long-houses are divided into independent household apartments, equipped with communal areas for cooking, ceremonies, social gatherings and blacksmithing.

The only person in Melak willing to rent a motorbike to me, was the kind owner of a guesthouse where I was staying. We soon agreed on details and I kicked off on an old Honda motorcycle, chasing new adventures on an extremely bad road.

The main half-paved road continued for an hour. Subsequently, the macadam road evolved into a dirt track, directing me through the bush that ultimately transformed into a barren landscape, completely lacking in life. My motorbike soon started to lose balance, I was leaning on the left and right until I almost lost control and stopped with the rear tire exhaled. The situation looked hopeless, I cursed on the innocent hotel owner and his old creep, which put me in an unenviable position.

After about thirty minutes of pushing the motorcycle, I reached the first house. They offered me a pump, but it didn’t help as the tire stayed flat. I convinced a small boy, who had nothing to do anyway, to take me to a mechanic, where we patched the tube.

Without any major problems, I found a Dayak longhouse – a fifty-meter-long hut on pillars, which offers home to approximately twenty families. During the day it was almost empty; just a few kids were playing around.

I was looking for elderly members of the Dayak community who could explain to me about their headhunting traditions, but it was getting late. Fearing that the engine or a tire would break down again, I abandoned the idea of continuing a ride to visit the Long Eared Dayak tribe and started to drive back to Melak.

Less than 100 meters before arriving at the hotel, my motorcycle started to tremble once more. I nearly lost my balance when a tremendous explosion erupted under my seat, which frightened me immensely. A crowd hurried into the street, captivated by the spectacle as Mister on a motorbike blew his rear tire in two parts. I was so pissed off that I just left the motorbike on the side of the road and walked back to the hotel.

In a state of fury, I confronted every individual I encountered, addressing them with a wide portfolio of Slovenian slang words. You don’t want to know how my communication with the hotel-motorbike owner ended, but I don’t believe I made it easy for future travelers to rent a motorbike in Melak.

My final destination in Indonesia was the northern region of Sulawesi, from where I embarked on a slow boat journey to the Philippines. Two days aboard a cargo-passenger boat in the company of pilgrims and a few other travelers passed quickly. The food was basic, comfort limited, but the sea remained tranquil for the majority of the time. I arrived to the Philippine island Mindanao safely.

Indonesia was my first Asian country on a long journey through the continent – the Asian Big Tour. Due to the political and economic crisis, Indonesia was exceptionally inexpensive and attracted only a limited number of visitors.

This situation allowed me to experience the country in a unique manner, free from the presence of large crowds of tourists, particularly outside of Bali.

Considering the differences among people, islands, religious, nature and languages, it is not easy to treat the country as a single unit. There are big variations among the islands, people, religions, languages and interests in welcoming foreign visitors.

Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough time to visit two major islands, Sumatra and Java, a factor that offers me a perfect reason to continue the exploration of Indonesia in the future.