Turkey

Visited: August 2004, March 2007, June 2010, July 2022

Duration of visit: 33 days

Capital city: Ankara

Population: 85 million (2022)

Estimated reading time: 21 minutes

• Istanbul with its bazaars, delicious food, historic Hagia Sophia, Dolmabahçe Palace and interesting basketball game experience.
• The capital city of Ankara, marked by the enormous hilltop mausoleum of Kemal Atatürk.
• Cappadocia – the land of fairy chimneys, underground hotels, churches and unique cone-shaped rock formations.
• Bathing in a natural complex of strange snow-white limestone structures at Pamukkale.
• Sunset and sunrise on top of the Throne of the Gods – Mount Nemrut.
• Historical roll of father of new Turkey – Mustafa Kemal Atatürk.
• Driving a car in Istanbul – crossing through undersea tunnel to the Asian part and returning to the European side on a bridge over Bosporus.

Turkey is one of those big, self-sufficient countries which significantly contributed to the development of human civilization. As cradle of ancient civilizations with 13 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, it offers a mix of history, culture, and natural beauty that is unique in the region and probably also worldwide.

Although about 95% of Turkey’s territory is located in Asia, and only 5% in Europe, this heir of the Ottoman Empire is considered a European country.

The country has been flirting with entry to European Union, while maintaining a position as a world center between different religions, beliefs, nations and global interests.

Turkey was part of my overland trip from Europe, through the Middle East and East Africa – the African Big Tour in 2004. During this trip, I visited the most important regions of the country from Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir, Cappadocia, Pamukkale and Eastern provinces.

Later, I returned for business purposes in 2004 and, finally, I also drove my own car around Istanbul during a family trip through the Balkans in 2022.

My first touch with Turkey in 2004 was a blast. As I was crossing the border from Bulgaria, I somehow ended walking for 3.5 kilometers during the midday heat to reach Edirne. Of course, it was not my original intention, but rather the result of inappropriate planning, being stubborn and underestimating the size of the successor state of the Ottoman Empire. If you come from Europe, where in a few hours you usually cross the border from one country to another, the size and greatness of Turkey is easy to notice.

My first stop – the city of Edirne – is a historically important city that doesn’t attract many tourists these days, but it offered me a great introduction to what I could expect in the next four weeks.

The 16^th century Selimiye Mosque is an Ottoman classic, with a large dome and 4 minarets, added as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011. I tried some traditional Turkish food (börek, baklava) and I was positively surprised by the kindness of locals, who were greeting and offering me help.

I continued my trip to Istanbul on a train, trying to figure out, what the rules regarding women dress code in Turkey were. The majority of elder women were covered from head to toe, while younger females and girls were walking around in t-shirts.

I shared a cabin with Nihal, a young female entrepreneur, who was working for Herbalife – a global multi-level marketing corporation of dietary supplements. She explained me about the dual aspects of Turkish reality for women: there is no requirement to cover or wear specific clothing; it depends more on family believes and traditions.

Since the time of legendary president Atatürk, who directed Turkey with progressive views and applied revolutionary changes, women have a unique position for a Muslim country.

Beside family traditions, location on the countryside or in the city can also make a big difference for women liberty and position in society.

The city of Istanbul features both a European and an Asian side, separated by the Bosporus Strait, which connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara. The impact of Istanbul is undeniable; it captivated me at every turn: markets or bazars, historical mosques, seaside walk on a pier along the Bosporus, controlled chaos, friendly people and nice atmosphere. I encountered numerous fascinating Turkish people who enhanced my experience in the city and inspired me to try new activities.

Beside all the traditional sightseeing, I also attended a basketball game between Turkey and Slovenia. It was a final game of Efes Pilsen Tournament and the match was played on the western outskirts of the city.

I took a tram to the last stop, from where a policeman walked me to a bus station. The bus driver gave me a lift to the end of a dark street after all the remaining passengers had disembarked. He didn’t even want a payment from me and gave me directions to continue walking all the way to a sport hall where the event was taking place.

On the way back, after the game was finished, an unknown lady guided me to a tram stop at 11:00pm. She walked more than a kilometer with me and when assured that I was safe and on the right way, turned around and walked back home.

Great hospitality by random passers-by is many times the most rewarding gift I appreciate at the end of the day, and one of the main reasons that keep me on the road travelling.

Istanbul is home to a variety of intriguing sites that every visitor should experience, and I was fortunate to have the chance to explore them myself.

I would like to highlight several landmarks from my personal bucket list.

Dolmabahçe Palace was the administrative center of the late Ottoman Empire in the 19^th century and one of the most glamourous palaces in the world. After walking through some of the halls, harem, rooms and the garden, I agree with this evaluation.

The quality of work, dedication, architecture and size could easily set side by side with Buckingham palace, Palace of Versailles or any other mighty buildings of European leaders.

The palace served as a home to six Sultans from 1856 until 1924. It has an area of 45,000m² containing 285 rooms, 46 halls, 6 hamams and 68 toilets.

Elements from the Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical styles are blended with traditional Ottoman architecture to create a new synthesis. After the fall of Ottoman empire, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk was also based there as well and he spent the last days of his life in the palace. He died on 10^th November 1938 in a bedroom located in the former harem area of the palace.

All the clocks in the palace were stopped and set to 9:05am after his death. The clocks outside his room are set to the actual time in Turkey, but the clock in the room in which he died still points to 9:05am.

Though Dolmabahçe Palace had the wow factor in spades, this extravagant project precipitated the empire’s bankruptcy and signaled the beginning of the end for the Osmanli dynasty. The palace is surrounded by a well-maintained garden where rare plants from Asia, Europe and America have been selected and brought to create a splendid collection.

Today the palace is a museum open to public and I found it as the most emblematic building in Istanbul, beside Hagia Sofia and Blue Mosque. The main reason is probably the connection with Ataturk who in my opinion, with his progressive and liberal idea, completely turned around a Muslim country. He presented a strategy to efficiently separate religion from politics in pursuit of a more balanced government.

Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazar are the most famous markets that have recently become a magnet for tourists.

The Grand Bazaar dates back to 1455, and over the centuries, it has grown into a warren of 60+ streets, over 4,000 shops and supporting the livelihoods of approximately 25,000 workers.

I found myself much more inclined to explore various areas of the city and take in the sights of the vibrant, informal bazaars with street sellers offering any imaginable product, food, drinks or services. Cooked corn in a park in front of Haga Sofia or a simple, fried fish sandwich sourced from a boat in Beyoğlu district taste as good as baklava or Turkish delight in famous Hafiz Mustafa 1864 Confectionery shop.

Creative and humorous vendors of unique Turkish ice cream consistently attract the attention of pedestrians as they playfully tease unsuspecting ice cream enthusiasts eager to grasp a cone. Dondurma ice cream is based on salep powder and mastic (aromatic resin from mastic trees) that gives this unusual ice cream a unique flavor and the ability to be stretchy, like a gum.

Beyoğlu is a modern district on the European side of İstanbul: Taksim square, the great pedestrian avenue of Istiklal and Galata Tower represent some of the highlights in this area. It is a symbol of the heyday of Constantinople on one side, but also reflecting decline of Istanbul in the 1990s; a kind of thermometer of the city.

Many religious buildings on Istiklal and the alleys adjacent to it, pedestrian avenues, squares and streets are full of visitors day and night. Beyoğlu is also a hub for eating, drinking and entertainment in the city and a mix of bohemian residential districts.

Istiklal Street is probably the most famous street and entertainment area in Istanbul. It is a long colorful pedestrian street full of all kind of shops, restaurants, cafes and street shows. It was safe and delightful walking around at any time of the day.

Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque are Istanbul’s greatest Islamic monument and landmarks commissioned by Sultan Ahmet; the first and the last one built in this grand scale. The Blue Mosque continues to function as an active place of worship, renowned for its captivating tile work, which features more than 20,000 individual tiles.

Hagia Sophia was built as a church in the 6^th century, converted into a mosque in 1453 and declared a museum in 1934.

It served as a center of religious, political, and artistic life for the Byzantine world and now it is the most visited tourist attraction in Istanbul.

The number of tourists between my visits in 2004 and 2022 has increased dramatically. The area can be hectic during the day, when tour groups create long queues. My favorite time of the day is late evening or even at night, when the atmosphere is much more serene and relaxed.

Sufi whirling is physically active meditation through which dervishes aim to reach the source of all perfection or dharma.

Dharma is achieved by listening to the music, focusing on God, and spinning one’s body in repetitive circles.

This symbolic imitation of planets in the Solar System orbiting the sun can last for a few minutes or even an hour when men dressed in white skirts, accompanied by simple, repetitive music seem to enter in a trans.

The group I observed was composed of only men, dressed in a sleeveless white frock, a long-sleeved jacket, a belt, and a black overcoat, which is removed before the whirling begins.

Dervish orders used to be much larger in size than they are today and, therefore, most of the performances are actually tourist orientated shows. Nevertheless, some of them can still be authentic and follow the original purpose.

Ankara is the capital of Turkey, located in the central Anatolia region, much less popular for visitors than Istanbul. One of the most notable examples of modern architecture that marks Ankara is the enormous hilltop Mausoleum of Kemal Atatürk, modern Turkey’s first president, who declared Ankara the capital in 1923.

I was extremely impressed reading the biography of this Turkish leader who had such a strong impact on the development of descendants of the ferocious Ottoman Empire.

I believe the president Atatürk is responsible for Turkey being a country that relates with modern Europe, offering stability and prosperity in the shaky region at the beginning of 21^st century.

His significant contributions include the introduction of a Latin-based Turkish alphabet and the provision of equal civil and political rights for Turkish women, also gaining the right to vote. Atatürk did not impose a ban on the headscarf; instead, he actively discouraged its wearing in public venues.

It is no wonder that Atatürk images and portraits are visible at every step around the country.

Another interesting experience in Ankara was watching a movie in a local cinema. It was actually a modern movie theater with latest technology, comfortable seats, all perks that makes cinema more enjoyable. The movie was in English with Turkish subtitles and I was probably the only non-Turkish visitor.

After 45 minutes the projection was stopped, the lights turned on and suddenly everybody was leaving the theater. I followed the crowd to the street in search of fresh air and discovered that it was a moment for a cigarette and coffee break. After 10 minutes we returned to our seats and continued watching the movie until the end.

A remarkable experience to merge the thrilling action and tension of the movie with the tranquility of enjoying tea and having discussions with a companion during the break.

PS: Unfortunately, I lost all photos from Ankara.

Ankara was for me also an important stopover to get a visa for Iran, the next country I was planning to visit.

I am always scared and extremely respectful when I deal with representatives of countries that are under special regime or have a reputation of demanding long list of requirements for foreign visitors. Nevertheless, my experience at Iran Consulate was extraordinary. I was received by a young clerk who gave me forms to fill and short instructions what information should I provide.

Fifteen minutes later, I was prepared with the necessary forms, accompanied by a recommendation letter issued by my embassy.

When I approached the clerk again, he offered me a map of Iran and started to give me advice about where to go, what to do and how do behave in local society. He invited me a cup of tea and soon we found out that we both studied economics. He inscribed his direct phone number on a sheet of paper and extended an invitation for me to return in two hours to collect my visa.

In fact, two hours later, my visa was finalized, and I was sipping another cup of tea in his company, while he shared further beneficial advice about exploring Iran.

Cotton castle, as Pamukkale is translated to English, is a surreal white area of small pools filled with thermal waters that flow from the top of the hill to the bottom and form unique snow-white limestone structures in shapes of swimming pools.

These large basins have been used for bathing since Roman times. These days, Pamukalle is a popular tourist destination. I spent all afternoon in this beautiful natural complex, walking thorough most of the pools and taking a bath in its healing waters.

The spectacular sunset at the end of the day, when all daily visitors were long gone, was magnificent and extraordinary.

PS: Unfortunately, I lost all photos from Pamukkale.

Having previously heard and read extensively about Cappadocia, I expected just another tourist trap, where I would encounter large groups of tourists instead of experiencing the region’s remarkable natural landscapes.

The experience exceeded my expectations significantly, and it is clear that Cappadocia is exceptional.

If I had had more money, I would have flown over the valley in a hot air balloon. Nevertheless, climbing one of the hills in Göreme and catching a sight of sunset over the distinctive fairy chimneys, was like experiencing the best goodnight fairy tale for adults.

The whole area is pretty big, so I decided to take an organized tour that would transport me to the most popular locations, where cone-shaped rock formations can be observed.

For centuries, the fantastical topography and soft stone have enabled habitants to excavate underground shelters, where stable temperature and climate protected them for extreme weather conditions.

The countryside scattered with fascinating cavern architecture, fresco-adorned rock-cut churches, hundreds of spectacular pillars and minaret-like forms, carved out houses and monasteries in the area around Göreme look as out of this world.

I stayed in a simple cave hotel that was dug up from the rock and had great conversations with my host Tarig – a carpet reseller. No deal was closed, but I learned a lot about his family, traditions and lifestyle in Cappadocia.

PS: Unfortunately, I lost all photos from Cappadocia.

Malatya is the world capital of apricots. About 50% of the fresh apricot production and 95% of the dried apricot production in Turkey come from here.

Malatya is also the world’s leading apricot producer representing about 15% of the worldwide crop of fresh apricots, and about 75% of the worldwide production of dried apricots.

Apricots were accompanying me on every corner: in sweetshops, on markets, billboards and also in many different forms: fresh, dry, sweet, etc. I have never eaten so many forms of apricots in one day as during the visit of Malatya, which also served as a base to explore the nearby Mount Nemrut.

I gathered a group of backpackers that were staying in a basic guesthouse to jointly conquer this 2,134-metre-high mountain. We were a mix group of Japanese, Korean and French adventurist in a minibus ready for a two-day trip. The Japanese girl with her polaroid camera was a star, taking photos of us and any person that we met on the way up and giving them print outs a few seconds later.

In 62 BC, King Antiochus I Theos of Commagene built a tomb-sanctuary flanked by huge statues of himself, two lions, two eagles and various Greek and Iranian gods. These 8 to 9-metres high structures were located right on the top of Mount Nemrut. The heads of the statues have been removed from their bodies, and they are now scattered throughout the site.

We drove up the mountain in the late afternoon and walked the last part to reach the summit half an hour before the sunset. Perfect timing!

The pure magic of Mount Nemrut landscape, beautiful view to the surroundings of the mountain, which was declared UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987, and fantastic sunset was one of the highlights of my Turkish trip.

It quickly became dark and chilly so we returned to the bus and to a nearby village at the bottom of the mountain where we spent the night. It was only a short sleep before repeating the exercise next morning.

We were on the top of Throne of the Gods, as Mount Nemrut is usually referred to, before the sunrise. This time there were no other visitors and I can still not decide if sunrise was even more spectacular than the sunset on the previous evening. I immensely appreciated thee initial rays of sunlight. They warmed me up and gave me energy to continue my trip toward Eastern Turkey and Iran.

PS: Unfortunately, I lost all photos from Malatya and Nemrut Daği.

Upon my return from Iran, I made a visit to the Eastern part of Turkey. The region is much less developed then the rest of the country, and it is populated predominantly by Kurds, the largest ethnic minority in Turkey. While Kurds inhabit multiple provinces across Turkey, they are predominantly located in the eastern and southeastern regions, which are commonly identified as Turkish Kurdistan.

During my visit to the regions of Van, Diyarbakir and Sanliurfa I did not observe any signs of tension or conflict.

Here are some notes from my diary:

Kayseri is a large industrial city, which remained in my memory mostly for kebabs that seemed to be the only food available in any restaurants where I stopped.

Van has the majority of Kurdish population and a few interesting things to see. The bazaar was authentic, mosques indoors nicely painted, many teahouses offering an opportunity to chat with locals. The Van Citadel stands on a steep hill overlooking the waters of Van Lake. It was very cold at night in October and I enjoyed a company of kids that guided me on the path to the Citadel.

Sanilurfa was actually just a stopover before crossing to Syria. After an overnight bus ride from Van, I arrived to a hotel at 4:00am and the reception was full of people, eating, drinking tea and having conversation. I thought that there was a big party or celebration going on, since everybody was inviting me to join them. Later I realized it was the first day of Ramadan and Muslims woke up early enough to have a nutritious breakfast before sunrise.

When working for an American corporation as a sales manager for Central and Eastern Europe (2004-05), I visited Turkey on two occasions, aiming to position an HVAC brand, find local distributors and consequently push sales to higher volumes.

Turkey is an extremely challenging market, where goods from all over the world are sold through a multitude of distribution channels. During extended meetings our business partners were constantly smoking, drinking tea and complaining about high prices and fierce competition.

People display friendliness, reliability and will to cooperate, but at the end of the day, they care for their own interest and making money, putting loyalty aside.

I was not very successful in sales, because Turkey doesn’t comply with the same regulations as the European Union. Copies of branded products can be distributed without limitation at much lower price. The quality might not be the same, but Turkish purchase power is lower and customers usually prefer more economical solutions, even though the products last less time.

In 2022, I visited Istanbul again with my family on a trip around Eastern Europe by my car. Not much has changed in the Sultanahmet area of Istanbul: more tourist infrastructure, scouts offering tours, jokes with ice cream, cooked corn on every corner and famous fish sandwich in Eminönü. This time I also crossed to the Asian side of Istanbul through the undersea Avrasya Tunnel and returned back to the European side on a bridge over the Bosporus.

The Asian side of Istanbul has been developing fast and without much restrictions. Contemporary shopping malls, modern residential areas, wide streets and modern lifestyle offer much better conditions for permanent residence. The traffic flow is smoother, and the infrastructure is more accommodating for drivers, while offering less commodity for public transportation options.

If Galata tower is the best observation point on the European side, the Great Camlica Mosque on the Asian side certainly provides a perspective that reflects the current identity of Istanbul.

The largest mosque in Turkey with capacity of 63.000 worshipers was inaugurated in 2019 by president Recep Tayyip Erdoğan.

Designed by two female architects, Bahar Mızrak and Hayriye Gül Totu, the complex incorporates an art gallery, library, and conference hall.

The mosque’s size makes it challenging to capture an adequate photo. Its six distinctive minarets rise prominently from the hilltop, making them visible from a great distance.

The sunset was perfect and I enjoyed the view over the Bosphor to the European side with only a few dozens of people around. Although the mosque itself offers panoramic views of Istanbul, it is not easily accessible, since the surrounding area remains under construction.

Turkey has been transforming rapidly in the first two decades of the 21^st century. Using all the potential on the crossroads between Europe and the Middle East, the biggest city Istanbul, has converted into a worldwide hub between different religions, beliefs, nations and perspectives. With a strong backup by Turkish Airline, which flies to more countries than any other airline, the amount of foreign visitors increased dramatically.

However, most of the crowds end in the main tourist destinations, such as Istanbul, Cappadocia or beach resorts along Mediterranean coast. Although the hospitality of the Turkish people is famous, I was able to establish an even more profound connection with the locals in areas beyond these regions.

I’ve got a feeling that everything in Turkey is big, much bigger than in European countries. Thus, the presence of millions of short-term tourists or permanent migrants is efficiently managed by a solid infrastructure that is rapidly developing.

Turkish people are incredibly kind, despite speaking very limited English, particularly outside of touristic areas.

In certain restaurants, German was actually much more useful. When people started explaining to me in Turkish, I was answering them in Slovenian and in the end we usually culminated chuckling. The warm hospitality of ordinary people made my day on many occasions, when they insisted helping me until I found a hotel, restaurant or other desired destination I had been looking for.