Georgia

Visited: June 2010

Duration of visit: 10 days

Capital city: Tbilisi

Population: 3.72 million (2010)

Estimated reading time: 9 minutes

• Train ride from Batumi to Tbilisi turned out into a too short family gathering, drinking tea and exchanging opinion with locals.
• Guest house in Tbilisi run by an old lady, who grew up in Soviet times and opened the door of her house to international community.
• Tbilisi – a city of contrasts and traditions.
• Marshrutka (private buses) trip on a dumpy, potholed road to Kazbegi and climb to Gergeti Trinity Church at 2,200 meters above sea level.
• Joseph Stalin Museum in the city of Gori – the birthplace of the Soviet leader and politician.

Georgia has had a turmoil past after its separation from Russia in 1991, which may lead to the fact that it has not yet been positioned as a main tourist destination. Economic crises, political instability, ethnic conflicts and secessionist wars in Abkhazia and South Ossetia, have placed Georgia in a situation, where the only alternative seems to be pursuing a pro-Western foreign policy at any cost.

I visited Georgia in 2010 as a part of South Caucasus tour, which also combined Armenia and Azerbaijan.

My first contact with Georgia was at the border crossing of Sarpi. A long line of trucks from Turkey was queuing for customs inspections, while our almost empty bus overtook them and stopped just in front of the border. A few questions in Russian and a standard check of exotic stamps in my passport, before I was welcomed to Georgia. A Black Sea resort and port city of Batumi was my first real stop, only for a few hours to catch a night train to Tbilisi.

After buying a ticket, I still had enough time to walk around and taste my first adjaruli khachapuri – cheese-filled flatbread with runny egg. It might not be the most sophisticated food, but this boat shaped famous bread filled with cheese and a knob of butter, is delicious.

The train was comfortable, slow and inexpensive. An enjoyable night ride alongside a mixed group of local passengers provided an excellent introduction into Georgian hospitality.

Hot water from samovar, sheets, a pillow and a blanket provided all the comfort, while sharing food, struggling to communicate in Russian and drinking hot tea, turned out into a too short family gathering.

Trains in this part of the world are the most comfortable and also affordable way to travel. It is true that some infrastructure might be old or basic, but the system established in the time of Soviet Union, was working smooth. Part of train travelling is sharing stories, drinks and food. Since there is so much time until the final destination, people are more open and relaxed.

It was obvious that the locals were interested in me as much as I was in them, but the communication barrier made it impossible to exchange more than a few basic words. I didn’t have much expectation from Georgia, but this was the beginning of my adventure, marked by great hospitality of locals and interesting backpackers that I would meet.

Georgian capital, Tbilisi, is the city of contrasts and traditions was part of the ancient Silk road route, under Turkish influence, mixed with a strong Orthodox Christian population.

Tbilisi was trying to find its own voice that was continuously suppressed by Soviet imposition and control.

Even in 2010, two decades after independence, the legacy of Russian influence and the risk of conflict are still very much alive in public consciousness.

Tbilisi as the capital city stands out in wealth and opportunities: almost one third of the population lives here.

I settled down in a hidden guesthouse in a residential neighborhood close to the city center. An old lady that grew up in Soviet times, but somehow learned decent English, opened the door of her house to international community in a relaxed atmosphere. Simple house with four rooms turned out to be one of those places where I could stay for weeks.

A Spanish banker working in Brussel; a lost Swedish hippy, who has been living on government support for years; a Portuguese girl educated abroad and constantly socializing with all men around her; an experienced Slovenian backpacker with limited budget and some knowledge of Russian.

We were like a dream team for a couple of days, especially when exploring nightlife of Tbilisi together.

Dinner in a restaurant with traditional food was exquisite, inexpensive and full of Georgians, who were toasting us from surrounding tables. The Swedish guy was one of the funniest people I’ve met and emboldened with vodka, his stories were entertaining in all bars that we visited that night. The Spanish guy was falling in love with the girls.

We were fortunately too tired for a nightclub and returned to the guesthouse, before the presence of alcohol could cause serious damage on behavior.

The contrast of old and new seem to intertwine in Tbilisi at every turn. Historical remains with modern architectural creations, traditional Georgian cuisine with modern fast food, as well as modern culture, which more or less harmoniously coexist with Soviet remnants or traditional Georgian heritage.

The Meidan is the bustling central square of Old Tbilisi (Dzveli Tbilisi). Classic Georgian architecture with colorful wooden balconies, cobbled streets, Sulfur Baths, a mosque decorated with blue mosaic, Leghvtakhevi Waterfall and a constant throng of people from morning until very late at night.

The 20 meters high Monument of Mother Georgia (Kartlis Deda) is visible from almost anywhere in the city. The crowned queen holds some wine in one hand; and a sword in the other. Erected in 1958 to honor 1,500^th anniversary of the city’s existence. Yes, Tbilisi is an old city.

The Bridge of Peace is a modern, bow-shaped pedestrian bridge over the Kura river, constructed of steel and glass. Recently opened in 2010, it has become an important pedestrian crossing in the city. A controversial modern design received a lot of criticism due to its domination over historical old town.

Authentic market of Dezerter Bazaar is a sprawling marketplace offering everything from fresh meat, bright and colorful spices to a wide range of produce. A purple sausage called churchkhela is a favorite local snack made from nuts, sugar, and grapes.

In Georgia, bread (puri) comes in different shapes and sizes; each region has its own shape. The most traditional ones are made in a cylindrical terracotta oven (tone) in which the fire comes from the bottom and the bread is baked on the red-hot side walls.

The cooking process involves the dough being pressed against the side of the warm oven walls until it is cooked to perfection.

These local bakeries warm up their clay oven in the wee hours of the morning and pump out fresh bread tonis puri throughout most of the day.

A Marshrutka is a privately-owned bus, usually a van, which leaves the station when it is full and not on a fixed schedule. It stops anywhere along the route where passengers want to get off or get on, if seats are available.

Marshrutka trip on a dumpy, potholed road to Kazbegi and climb to Gergeti Trinity Church near the village of Stepantsminda, at a height of 2,200 meters above sea level, is the best trip outside of Tbilisi.

Surrounded by Greater Caucasus, this impressive mountain range is one of the finest examples of harmonic combination between architecture and landscape. The sanctuary was originally built in 14^th century on the place that used to be pagan idols worshiping. Throughout the centuries, the church was the place where the Georgian Orthodox and Apostolic Church was giving mass to the locals in the area.

From the 18^th century to 1990 it was mainly used for storage or as a popular waypoint for travelers on the road connecting Russia and Georgia. The Soviet system didn’t care too much about it and closed it down.

It took me an hour to climb the hill up the serpentine road and a thorny forest from the town of Stepantsminda. I left my Spanish friend behind and tested my physical preparation at high altitude. Sunny and rather warm weather, blue sky, wonderful view to the valley and mountains peaks around. One of the best views in this part of Georgia.

Gori is the birthplace of the Soviet leader and politician Joseph Stalin. The museum contains many items owned by Stalin, including furniture, his personal effects and gifts donated to him over the years.

Walking around his personal railway carriage, Greco-Italianate pavilion and large palazzo with six halls, took me back to the time, when General Secretary of the Communist Party of the Soviet Union was spreading around his own ideas in imposing way that allowed him to gain absolute power and subdued the people in the most brutal way.

Joseph Stalin was one of the most remarkable Soviet leaders and politicians, with a clear vision of one-party totalitarian police state, rapid industrialization, enforcing collectivization of agriculture and escalation of class conflict.

He built an incredibly powerful cult of personality that lasted significantly longer than his lifetime, which ended in 1953.

Serious curators-guides in the museum were all women. One after another guided me through their sections, dedicatedly showing the most important and valuable items on display.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t understand most of Russian explanations, but I was afraid to disclose my lack of knowledge. Two interesting real stories about his life called my attention:

• Stalin’s mother sent him to Tbilisi to become a priest, but he showed much more interest to Karl Marx literature, communist ideas, joining a local socialist group instead and turning into atheist, rather than attending religious classes.
• Stalin’s son from his first marriage was a soldier in the Red Army during World War II and was imprisoned by the Nazis. They proposed to free him in exchange of prisoners, but Stalin refused, probably believing that his son was not captured, but surrendered voluntarily. Apparently, he did not show forgiveness even in the circle of his own family.

Friendly people, easy to travel around and all possibilities to develop as one of the most attractive destinations in Eastern Europe within next decade. Vibrating capital city of Tbilisi with a rich history dating back to 5^th century, where generations of people that grew up in different political and economical systems, search for a better future.

Kazbegi National Park and The Trinity Church of Gergeti, located on a mountain peak, from which I enjoyed panoramic views of the surrounding landscape gave me just an idea how a longer trekking could keep me in the country for another week.

If I ever come back to Georgia, I would love to explore The Svanetia region with an ancient and interesting culture where pagan and Christian rituals, customs and traditions merge into each other creating a new, unique mix.