Qatar

Visited: December 2016

Duration of visit: 3 days

Capital city: Doha

Population: 2.8 million (2016); 313,000 Qatari, 2.5 million foreign workers

Estimated reading time: 6 minutes

• Exploring Doha on scooters with my partner and two small kids.
• Amazing transformation of a desert town to one of the most prosperous cities in the World.
• City in construction preparing for the World Cup: stadiums, metro, other infrastructure.
• Fog in the early morning and late afternoon, with very limited visibility, while sunny and hot during the day.
• No rush, calm and relaxing atmosphere.

I visited Qatar with my family in a combined trip to the United Arab Emirates and Oman in December 2016 – January 2017. It was a pleasant stopover destination during the cold European winter. My kids were still small at that time (5 and 7 years), so we decided to take manual scooters with us. It was easier for kids to overcome long distances and fun at the same time.

Doha turned out to be a perfect place to move around on scooters, since all pavements were new, long promenades clean and very little traffic or people walking around.

Qatar is also one of the safest countries in the world, so we were able to park our scooters everywhere without worries that somebody would steal or bother about them.

Arriving at dusk, we settled down in a residential area in the norther side of Doha. It was warm and quiet, but I was really surprised with the fog that was reducing visibility to only a few meters. I went for a walk around the neighborhood and I could hardly see to the other side of the street.

When the sun finally broke through the fog, I could immediately notice that most of the infrastructure was new or under construction: wide alleys, parks with efficient irrigation system, multi-storey buildings, plenty of space, no traffic and no people walking or cycling.

Our host was an expat couple that emigrated to Qatar from Malaysia and Egypt. Here, they can achieve substantial savings, experience a more advantageous living situation, and enhance their prospects for career advancement. Hadi and Mohamed played with our kids, gave us many useful advices and introduced us to delicious, authentic Palestinian knafeh.

Knafeh is a popular traditional dessert of Arab origin, made with spun pastry soaked in a sweet, sugar-based syrup, filled with stretchable cheese and sprinkled with pistachios on the top.

After a short ride from our apartment in a taxi, we progressed to Corniche on scooters. Drivers were cautious, asphalt on the sidewalks smooth, distance manageable, view of skyscrapers adorable. Doha Corniche was constructed to connect both extremes of the city; the emerging West Bay district to the south city with Doha International airport.

We admired the exterior of one of Qatar’s most esteemed museums, the Museum of Islamic Art. The museum elegantly rises on the seashore, not far from the pier, where traditional dhow boats were docked.

As we approached the old town, Souq Waqif was of the first places to visit. This marketplace, where traditional garments, spices, handicrafts and souvenirs are sold, is very nice organized. Stands look luxurious; no haggling, screaming or loud negotiations are heard.

I was used to very different souks from Middle East countries, with lots of people, vendors offering their goods loudly, inviting foreigners for a cup tea and pushing to buy, especially if the sales are low that day.

Falconry is the hunting of wild animals in their natural state and habitat by means of a trained bird of prey. This activity began over 5,000 years ago and it was introduced to Qatar through Bedouin tribes who used the birds as a tool for hunting.

Although, over the centuries, falconry has virtually disappeared from the European continent, the sport lives on in the Middle East. It is estimated that 2,000 falcons are still employed on the Arabian Peninsula each year.

The best way to see just a little bit of this mystic sport is to visit the Falcon Souq in Doha. Located next to Souq Waqif, Falcon Souq is popular for the sale of falcons, accessories, equipment for hunting enthusiasts and flying competitions.

I entered one of the shops to observe the elegant birds sitting on perches, covered with leather helmets that restrict the animal view. There is not much action going on, since the birds are quiet and covered, but I felt that there was a lot of respect and money involved in this activity.

If evaluated by GDP per capita at approximately 135.000US$ per capita, Qatar is the wealthiest country in the World.

With so much money that flows in from oil and natural gas production (60% of GDP), there is no wonder why its country leaders are determined to pursue the best of the best in whatever they decide to do.

Having one of the best airports in the World, Qatar Airways was named the best airline in the world in 2019. The country has been hosting Formula One Grand Prix races and it was preparing to organize football World Cup 2022, the biggest event worldwide. Besides that, Qatar is the safest or one of the safest countries in the world.

It would be hard to say that Qataris are hard workers, consistent or dedicated. Well, money can also acquire cheap work force, mostly from India, Bangladesh and Pakistan. Hundreds of thousands of workers have been emigrating to work for miserable salaries, living in inhuman circumstances within ghettos, working in dangerous conditions and long shifts without a break.

Apparently, it is still better than in their homeland, plus they can save a couple of hundreds of dollars at the end of the month. However, it is not ethic to take advantage of common people like this – it could be actually defined as a modern slavery.

Qatar has one of the highest males to female ratio in the world, mostly due to the number of foreign workers that are in majority males working in construction, maintenance and engineering.

There are more than two million expats in the country while Qatari citizens only slightly exceed 314,000 people. Only 12% of the nation’s population consists of Qatari citizens, living in a separate cultural realm.

Women are mostly at home; occasionally cooking or caring for children, but mostly mingling among themselves. In a traditional Muslim society, the superiority of men is clearly observable in various public settings, where they frequently gather, drink tea, or engage in commercial activities.

Doha in 2016 is probably the fastest developing city in the world. Good planning, with a bottomless sack of money and clear goal to position the city as a main player for global sport events in the region, has caused a complete transformation of the whole country.

So far, Qatar is a pleasant stopover for a few days, but it will soon upgrade to a final destination, where visitors will attend one of the events, live, work or simply enjoy good weather during European winter, while having fun at the modern facilities.

When I eventually return to Qatar in a decade, judging by the big projects that are currently under construction, I anticipate that it will be an entirely new city, offering a multitude of attractions that will engage visitors for several days.