United Arab Emirates

My United Arab Emirates travel summary:

Visited: March 2004, December 2017, January 2022

Duration of visit: 12 days

Capital city: Abu Dhabi

Population: 9.8 million (2022)

United Arab Emirates travel blog reading time: 14 minutes

• Backpacking with limited budget at the end of my African Big Tour.
• Exploring Dubai skyscrapers park, shopping malls, old town and beaches.
• Ascending Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building, on a foggy day.
• Admiring Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque at sunset in Abu Dhabi.
• Touring 50+ pavilions and trying to grasp the purpose of The World Expo 2020.
• Enjoying a stay at a luxury hotel on The Palm Jumeirah.

The United Arab Emirates (UAE) is a remarkable success story, transforming an underdeveloped country into a top tourist and expat destination. Here, state-of-the-art technology, glitz, and luxury – rarely seen elsewhere in the world – are the norm. With new landmarks, attractions, and activities, United Arab Emirates travel has become increasingly popular.

Once a desert, UAE cities now boasts palm-lined four-lane avenues, rose gardens, and lush, well-maintained green lawns.

A modern irrigation system keeps everything green as luxury cars with celebrities and businessmen, drinking champagne, pass by celebrating new projects.

The ecstasy of shopping in exclusive malls, attending sinfully luxurious parties and building dream homes on artificial islands is in contrast with the reality of millions of workers from India, Bangladesh and the Philippines. They live in dislocated ghettos in unhuman conditions and work long hours for miserable salaries.

Dubai and Abu Dhabi are the two main cities that transformed into 21^st century with different speed and approach that is a reflection of their rulers’ vision. Once the transformation started, the main concern is how long the petrol money will last and what the alternatives will be.

I visited the United Arab Emirates three times in very different roles, seeing its growth over 18 years. These trips let me experience Dubai from various budget perspectives and understand its development deeply.

• As a backpacker with limited budget at the end of one-year trip across Africa in 2004.
• In 2017, as a father with two kids and a partner, we spent three weeks in the region on a medium budget.
• In 2022, as a businessman, I stayed at a luxurious Palm Jumeirah hotel, held meetings, and attended the Expo.

After being in a semi-civilized world around the Middle East and Africa for almost a year, Dubai seems like a city from another planet; future civilization. From the first moment, when landing at the airport, everything gives the impression of being extremely advanced, unique and futuristic.

International visitors use iris-scanning cameras, finish migration formalities in minutes, while their luggage already waits for them. It really wasn’t too hard to find the only backpack on the luggage belt among suitcases of all colors and sizes. I guess there are not many backpackers visiting Dubai these days.

In 2004, the easiest way to get a UAE visa was buying a tourist package. It included a plane ticket, three-day visa, hotel with breakfast, and airport shuttle. I stayed in a hotel with three more stars than usual after six months of traveling across Africa.

Buffet breakfast included the abundance range of dishes: from eggs, pancakes, bread and cereals to fresh fruits, tea or coffee. My investment in a three-star hotel was already paid back with the feast of food that I received in the morning.

Funny enough, simply walking around without being bothered or offered services was probably the most pleasant experience of my United Arab Emirates adventure.

The United Arab Emirates is a country with about four million inhabitants (in 2004), of which less than a million are of local origins.

Personally, I hardly saw any Emiratis on the streets of Dubai, despite what the statistics say.

Most avoid the sun, staying in air-conditioned cars, malls, restaurants, or homes. They usually have fair skin and wear traditional clothes.

Emirati men wear gutra as the headdress to protect the head and face from the desert heat and sand. They are dressed in dishdasha – a single-piece of ankle-length white garment. They walk elegantly, a few meters ahead of women and children, showing power, prestige, and authority.

Emirati women are dressed in abaya – thin, flowing cloak that covers the body; Often, women cover their heads with a hijab, using a shayla scarf or gishwa veil that partially covers the face.

Emiratis enjoy strong protection and privileges from the government, including high tax-free income and subsidized education, healthcare, and fuel. They also receive incentives for buying homes and land, plus early retirement benefits.

Tourists, Western expats, and mostly foreign workers were the only people I saw around Dubai.

Famous as a shopping paradise and luxury, Dubai also boasts the world’s only seven-star hotel. A global icon of Arabian luxury – Hotel Burj Al Arab.  In 2004, the cheapest room cost 1,150USD, so I could only admire the hotel from a distance, near the guards.

Built on an artificial island in 1999, the luxurious hotel features an iconic sail-shaped design. Visible from almost anywhere, it stands as a true symbol of Dubai. Some time ago, visitors could enter for 30USD, but now only guests or diners at the restaurants are allowed.

Although a United Arab Emirates travel adventure can be expensive, I still found deals that made my stay more affordable.

With proper planning and organization, many activities can still be enjoyed for free or very little money.

A few cents on a comfortable bus took me across all parts of this fantastic, futuristic city. Lunch at an Indian restaurant cost just a few dollars. Walking among skyscrapers was much easier than finding free access to the beach. Window-shopping in exclusive malls and observing the rapidly growing modern buildings from outside, especially when the heat was moderate, proved to be one of Dubai’s most inspiring activities.

Even though many attractions now require payment, I still find the most interesting places to visit are those visible from the outside.

In 2017 I visited the UAE as a part of family trip (with two little kids) in the region. We landed at Dubai airport on a flight from Qatar and later continued to Oman overland.

A lot can change in 13 years, and Dubai is no exception.

Soaring 828 meters above the city, the Burj Khalifa is Dubai’s most recognized landmark. It holds various world records for the highest building, outdoor observation deck and the elevator. Its shape, colors, the surrounding entertainment and shopping made Burj Khalifa the number one attraction in the country.

By far the most impressive fact about Burj Khalifa for me is that the tallest building in the world was built only in 6 years.

I booked Burj Khalifa tour tickets well in advance because the end-of-year period can be very crowded. We had huge expectations before ascending the world’s tallest building and the whole process was really spectacular. The tension was increasing when we stepped out of the elevator at 124^th floor, where the observation deck offers the view over the city.

But we were dismayed as we stepped on the terrace and looked for the panoramic view of Dubai. We couldn’t see anything. Only the spikes of the three largest buildings were visible, while everything else was covered with a dense fog. What a disappointment!

I had read about possible morning fog in winter. Still, I couldn’t believe it happened the day we stood on the world’s tallest building. Nevertheless, it was still fun and exciting to be so high. I consoled myself by enjoying a beautiful sunny morning above the clouds, while the entire city remained hidden under fog.

At the foot of the world’s tallest building, I found a huge shopping mall and amazing choreographed fountains, beautiful day and night.

Downtown Dubai shows the city’s glossy face, the one seen on websites, postcards, and advertisements.

We stayed in an old part of the city, where history stretches far beyond the modern metal-and-glass 21^st-century skyline.  Before the oil boom, Dubai was an 18th-century fishing village. It later grew into an important port and trading hub, especially famous for its pearls.

A simple hotel in Deira offered comfort, but stepping onto the bustling street revealed a completely different, vibrant world. It was a taste of the culture that’s now overshadowed by Dubai’s modern face, similar to other Middle East cities. Traditional sandstone buildings lining narrow lanes, early 20^th century souqs piled high with fruits, vegetables, spices, textiles and gold. Souvenir shops, galleries and museums show more about the traditional culture that’s still very much alive in these parts.

Boats and ships along Dubai Creek Canal still transport passengers, cargo and fish. I loved this part of Dubai because so much was within walking distance. I could taste Arabic food, browse souvenirs, explore the gold and spice souks, and enjoy traditional tea.

In other areas we had to use public transport or scooters that we brought with us to ease the coverage of long distances with small kids, but around Deira walking is pleasant.

Deira Waterfront Market has served customers since 1958. Seafood, fish, meat, spices, dry goods, vegetables and fruits are well presented, fresh and separated in sections. As a seafood lover, I enjoyed the colorful stands and friendly vendors, with many local and high-quality imported products.

Some of the most popular restaurants are also part of the Waterfront market. The food is not cooked by famous international chefs, but it’s fresh and far cheaper than in the modern areas.

Dubai has many artificial attractions that draw tourists worldwide, but they can be expensive and often feel kitschy.

From skiing on artificial slopes to visiting aquariums, fountains, and lavish bars, Dubai offers extravagant attractions and mock-Arabian luxury experiences. Instead of joining overpriced desert safaris, dunes dune-bashing, sand-skiing or quad-biking, we opted for swimming, fish market, ferry trip and New Year fireworks at Burj Khalifa.

We moved around with public transport and, besides walking, found scooters, which we brought from our homeland, very practical. It was fun for the kids and, at the same time, we managed to cover longer distances than we would, if only walking.

A regular, inexpensive ferry trip took us along the coastline to appreciate the main attractions from the sea. The view of Burj Al Arab from different angles, with skyscrapers and Dubai Marina filled with luxury yachts, was especially rewarding.

Among cities famous for New Year’s Eve celebrations, I always admire Dubai’s fireworks from the tallest building.

Almost a kilometer-tall firework, firing in 2.000+ directions, combined with laser and light show is a unique experience.

We were lucky enough to observe it live, mingling with huge crowds gathering at surrounding areas of the iconic Burj Khalifa.

Abu Dhabi, the capital of the United Arab Emirates, is different than Dubai.

Its economic transformation started much later and in more balanced way than Dubai; the focus on oil exports and commerce is still the main pillar of quick development.

Located on an island, Abu Dhabi attracts with a mix of jaw-dropping magnificent architecture, stunning beaches, palm-lined promenades, traditional and cultural monuments, mosques, adventure-sport destinations and premium ultramodern shopping plazas.

We travelled from Dubai to Abu Dhabi on a comfortable bus. Dubai’s limited public transport made scooters very convenient for exploring the waterfront Corniche with its white sandy beaches and generous promenade. Stretching along the city’s northwest shore, it offers many spots for swimming and relaxing under palm trees. I enjoyed strolling through gardens, playing on green areas, and watching people around me.

I noticed the more conservative dress and higher Muslim population compared to Dubai, even though most people there were expats, not locals. The Promenade is an excellent area for observation of iconic high-rise tower blocks, including the epochal Emirates Palace. I found it to be a cultural hub of the city, blending luxury hotels, bars, restaurants, a private beach, and exclusive privacy when needed.

Late in the afternoon, we took a taxi across the city and arrived just in time to see the UAE’s largest mosque at sunset. The moment was astonishing.

The last sunrays cast a warm yellow-orange light on the perfect white Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, while crowds gathered for evening prayer on the world’s largest carpet.

It was so crowded I couldn’t reach the indoor area, but the courtyard was quiet, clean, and spacious.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is rather new, built between 1996 and 2007. Eleven years is a long time in the UAE, where many skyscrapers rise within just a few years. However, most of the mosques worldwide have much longer history and their construction took more time.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque stands at the entrance to Abu Dhabi Island, visible from the three bridges connecting it to the mainland. It holds deep meaning for UAE citizens and is the burial place of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan.

The size (it can accommodate 40.000 worshipers), design and natural materials used for the construction are aligned with the strategy of Emirates to strive for the best. Marble, semi – precious stones, gold, wood and other materials were imported from many different countries and sources. The architecture is inspired by different mosques, historical periods, and cultures, adding to the complexity of the construction.

The mosque features 80 marble domes, four 107-meter minarets, white marble, floral stone designs, Swarovski chandeliers, and a massive carpet. The carpet’s perfection comes from 1,200 craftsmen working 11 years, covering 5,700 square meters with 2.2 billion knots.

In 2022, I visited Dubai on a business trip. Arriving late at night didn’t impede me to take a metro and travel for almost an hour to my hotel in Dubai Marina, one of my favorite parts of City of Gold.

It was a great location for visiting the World Expo, smart cafes and line waterside promenade – Dubai Marina Walk. Marina Mall, luxury yachts, and bustling crowds create a lively, vibrant atmosphere in the large man-made marina day and night.

I used a day off to visit the World Expo 2020, postponed due to Covid-19. The 5-square-kilometer exhibition featured over 200 pavilions organized under Opportunity, Mobility, and Sustainability themes. It can take days to visit all of them, but I made a plan to stop by the pavilions of countries that I hadn’t visited yet. Most of them were simple and standard with basic exhibition. Hosts were regularly busy navigating on their cell phones, instead of attending infrequent visitors.

Some pavilions looked amazing from the outside, with striking designs, but their big, fancy spaces often hid the pavilions’ real purpose.

By the end of the day, I still didn’t fully understand the goal of The World Expo 2020. Perhaps investing all that money into sustainability or action projects would have had a greater impact.

I stayed in a luxury hotel on The Palm Jumeirah, with surreal views of Burj Al Arab and downtown skyscrapers. On the other side, Marina buildings and the panorama of inner bays captured my full attention.

Eighteen years ago, I was just an observer of man-made islands. This time, I could fully enjoy the extravagance and imagination of the wealthy. The sandy beach and turquoise sea were stunning, but extra services were very expensive. Renting equipment or having a cocktail seemed prohibitive, so I stuck to swimming and sunbathing.

Less than two decades after my first modest trip to Dubai, I am amazed by how fortunate I have been. Still, I remain a backpacker at heart, enjoying carrying my backpack, meeting locals, and living an adventurous lifestyle.

Since its formal establishment in 1971, the United Arab Emirates has experienced unprecedented growth and development over the past decades. Impressive police cars, the safest city in the world (Abu Dhabi), luxury malls, the tallest building of Burj Khalifa, six of the world tallest hotels in the world and more. Before oil was discovered in the mid-20^th century, the UAE’s economy relied mainly on fishing and the pearl industry. In 2021 the country created the world’s first government ministry for artificial intelligence.

The UAE appears to be a continuous source of innovative advancements, concepts, and luxury.

One of the fastest-changing countries, transformed dramatically from my first visit to the World Expo in 2022. In 2004, the UAE was a small emirate with a bold vision to attract visitors, residents, and shoppers. 20 years later, it has become a Middle Eastern superpower, leading in business, politics, tourism, security, technology, and entertainment.

The biggest shift in the last decade is that the UAE now faces regional competition. Qatar, Bahrain, Kuwait, and recently Saudi Arabia have adopted Dubai’s model and similar strategies.

I didn’t explore old Emirates, but I believe little remains of the harsh nomadic desert life. Nobody complains!