United Arab Emirates

Visited: March 2004, December 2017, January 2022

Duration of visit: 12 days

Capital city: Abu Dhabi

Population: 9.8 million (2022)

Estimated reading time: 17 minutes

• Backpacking with limited budget at the end of African Big Tour.
• Ascent to the World’s highest building Burj Khalifa and wondering why the sky of Dubai is covered with fog.
• Exploring Dubai skyscrapers park, shopping malls, old town and beaches.
• Visiting Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque at sunset in Abu Dhabi.
• The World Expo 2020 – visiting 50+ pavilions and trying to understand what the purpose of this exhibition is.
• Staying in a luxury hotel on The Palm Jumeirah in 2022.

The United Arab Emirates (the UAE) is a story of success of how to transform a relatively backward country into a developed tourist and expat destination, where state-of-the-art technology, glitz and luxury which are rarely found elsewhere in the world, are a norm.

Where there used to be a desert only some decades ago, four-lane avenues decorated with palm trees, picturesque rose gardens and perfect green grass extend today.

Everything is watered with a modern irrigation system while luxury vehicles with rich celebrities and businessmen drinking champagne, cheering to new exclusive projects, pass by.

The ecstasy of shopping in exclusive malls, attending sinfully luxurious parties and building dream homes on artificial islands is in contrast with the reality of millions of workers from India, Bangladesh and the Philippines, who live in dislocated ghettos in similar conditions as in their home country, working extended hours for a miserable salary according to the UAE standards, though still higher than in their countries.

Dubai and Abu Dhabi are the two main cities that transformed into 21^st century with different speed and approach that is a reflection of their rulers’ vision. Once the transformation is started, it is only the question of how much time petrol money will last and what alternatives of income will be created to continue the expansion after the oil money runs out.

I visited United Arab Emirates three times in completely dissimilar roles, which enabled me to explore the growth and development of the country in the period of 18 years and appreciate Dubai from different budget perspectives:

• As a backpacker with limited budget at the end of one-year trip across Middle East and Africa in 2004.
• As a father with my two small kids and a partner, as part of a three weeks journey in the region (Qatar, UAE, Oman), medium budget without extravagance, nor luxury in 2017.
• As a businessman in 2022, when I stayed in the most luxurious hotel in The Palm Jumeirah islands, meeting the highest authorities from a Central American country and attending Expo.

After being in a semi-civilized world around the Middle East and Africa for almost a year, Dubai seems like a city from another planet; future civilization. From the first moment, when landing at the airport, everything gives the impression of being extremely advanced, unique and futuristic.

International visitors look into special cameras that capture their iris, complete migration formalities in a matter of minutes, while the luggage is already waiting for them. It really wasn’t too hard to find the only backpack on the luggage belt among suitcases of all colors and sizes. I guess there are not many backpackers visiting Dubai these days.

The easiest way to get a visa and enter United Arab Emirates was to buy a touristic package that includes: a plane ticket, a tourist visa for 3 days, a hotel with breakfast and free shuttle bus from the airport. There was no need to look for a cheap bus, neither negotiate with taxi drivers for the price of transfer to downtown.

I settled down in a hotel with three stars more than usual in the previous 6 months.

Buffet breakfast included the abundance range of dishes: from eggs, pancakes, bread and cereals to fresh fruits, tea or coffee. Funny enough, walking around without being bothered or offered any kind of services, was probably the most pleasant situation. My investment in a three-star hotel was already paid back with the feast of food that I received in the morning.

The United Arab Emirates is a country with about four million inhabitants (in 2004), of which less than a million are of local origins.

This is what statistic says. In reality, there are hardly any Emiratis visible on the streets of Dubai.

Most of them don’t expose to the sun, preferring the air-conditioned shelter of a car, shopping mall, restaurant or home. They usually have fair skin and they are always dressed in traditional clothes.

Emirati men wear gutra as the headdress to protect the head and face from the desert heat and sand. They are dressed in dishdasha – a single-piece of ankle-length white garment. They walk around elegant in straight posture a few meters in front of women and children (if they are accompanied by them), showing their power and prestige.

Women are dressed in abaya – thin, flowing cloak that covers the body; in many occasions, the head is covered with hijab – including a shayla, a light scarf that covers the hair and gishwa, a thin veil that covers the face but the wearer can see through.

Emiratis are extremely protected and privileged by the government: high tax-free income; subsidized education, health care and fuel; incentive packages for buying houses and land; retirement benefits from the very early age.

Tourists, Western expats and, in big majority, foreign workers, are the only people that I saw around the city.

Out of three million immigrants, the largest part come from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and the Philippines.

Well known as a shopping paradise in this part of the world, Dubai is also famous for boasting the only seven-star hotel in the world. A global icon of Arabian luxury – Hotel Burj Al Arab.  The cheapest room price stands at unaffordable 1,150.00US$ (in 2004); therefore, I only appreciated it from a safe distance – as close as the guards allowed me to go.

Built on an artificial island, opened in 1999, with its iconic sail-shaped design, the luxurious hotel is visible from almost anywhere in Dubai and represents a real icon of the city. Sometime ago, it was allowed to visit it from inside for only 30.00US$, but now only guests and those who are planning to dine in one of the seven restaurants are allowed to enter. If I can’t afford to stay overnight in Burj Al Arab hotel because of price, I am neither welcome in restaurants, because I currently don’t wear a suitable outfit.

A ride on a comfortable bus for a few cents take you to all parts of this fantastic, futuristic city. Lunch in Indian restaurant is accessible for a few dollars. Walking around and observing skyscrapers is much easier than finding free access to the beach. Window watching in exclusive shopping malls and observing the rapidly growing modern buildings from the outside, in moments when the heat is moderate, is perhaps most inspiring activity that Dubai can offer.

If you organize and plan properly, many things can be still obtained for free or little money.

In 2017 I visited the UAE as a part of family trip (with two little kids) in the region. We landed at Dubai airport on a flight from Qatar and later continued to Oman overland.

A lot of changes happen in 13 years. Dubai is no exception. Soaring at a staggering 828 meters over the city, the Burj Khalifa building is the most recognized Dubai’s landmark. It holds various world records for the highest building, outdoor observation deck and the elevator. Its shape, colors and the entertainment-shopping programs that accompanies it, converted Burj Khalifa into number 1 attraction in the country.

By far the most impressive fact about Burj Khalifa for me is that the tallest building in the world was built only in 6 years.

We booked tickets for Burj Khalifa tour well in advance, since the period at the end of the year could be very crowded. We had huge expectations before ascending the world’s tallest building and the whole process was really spectacular. The tension was increasing when we stepped out of the elevator at 124^th floor, where the observation deck offers the view over the city.

But we were dismayed as we stepped on the terrace and looked for the panoramic view of Dubai. We couldn’t see anything. Only the spikes of the three largest buildings were visible, while everything else was covered with a dense fog. What a disappointment!

I had been reading before about possibilities of morning fog in the winter time, but couldn’t believe that it was going to happen on the day, when we were at the top of the highest building in the World. Nevertheless, it was still fun and exciting to be so high. I consoled myself by enjoying a beautiful sunny morning, while the whole city was covered with fog.

At the foot of the world’s tallest building you can also find the second-biggest shopping mall on the planet, and choreographed fountain that are equally amazing at daylight or at night. The whole area of downtown Dubai is the glossy face of the city that everyone sees on websites, postcards and adverts.

We settled down in an old area of the city where the past stretches far beyond its metal-and-glass skyline of 21^st century.  Before the oil boom that sparked its rapid growth, Dubai was an 18^th century fishing village that grew to become an important port and trading hub, particularly known for its pearls.

A simple hotel with decent infrastructure and good location in Deira invites to a completely different space, when stepping out on a bustling street. It was a taste of the culture that’s now overshadowed by Dubai’s modern face, similar to other Middle East cities; traditional sandstone buildings lining narrow lanes, early 20^th century souqs piled high with fruits, vegetables, spices, textiles and gold. Souvenir shops, galleries and museums show more about the traditional culture that’s still very much alive in these parts.

Boats and ships along Dubai Creek Canal still transport passengers, cargo and fish. It is one of the very few areas in Dubai, where you can find many varieties in a short distance: taste Arabic food or snacks, buy souvenir, visit gold souk or spices souk, drink a cup of tea or coffee in traditional cafeterias. In other areas we had to use public transport or scooters that we brought with us to ease the coverage of long distances with small kids, but around Deira walking is pleasant.

Deira Waterfront Market has served customers since 1958. Seafood, fish, meat, spices, dry goods, vegetables and fruits are well presented, fresh and separated in sections. Colorful stands attended by polite vendors are a must visit for any seafood lover. It is surprising that so many products are locally produced, while imported goods are of high quality.

Some of the most popular restaurants are also part of the Waterfront market. Maybe not owned by the most recognized (and exclusive) international chefs, but the food is fresh and much cheaper than in modern areas of the city.

There are many artificial attractions that are engaging tourists from all over the word, but can be quite costly and kitschy.

From skiing on artificial snow on human-made slopes, aquariums and fountains, overpriced exclusive bars and restaurants, mock-Arabian city with lavish hotels and leisure facilities. Instead of joining overpriced desert safaris, dunes dune-bashing, sand-skiing or quad-biking, we opted for swimming, fish market, ferry trip and New Year fireworks at Burj Khalifa.

We moved around with public transport and, besides walking, found scooters, which we brought from our homeland, very practical. It was fun for the kids and, at the same time, we managed to cover longer distances than we would, if only walking. A regular, inexpensive ferry trip took us along the coastline to appreciate the main attractions from the sea. Especially rewarding was the view to Burj El Arab from different angles with the skyscrapers in the background and Dubai Marina full of luxury yachts.

Among many cities that are always in the news headlines on New Year’s Eve, famous for spectacular celebrations, parties and decoration, I always admire fireworks from the tallest building in Dubai.

Almost a kilometer-tall firework, firing in 2.000+ directions, combined with laser and light show is a unique experience. We were lucky enough to observe it live, mingling with huge crowds gathering at surrounding areas of the iconic Burj Khalifa.

Abu Dhabi, the capital of the United Arab Emirates, is different than Dubai.

Its economic transformation started much later and in more balanced way than Dubai; the focus on oil exports and commerce is still the main pillar of quick development.

The skyline’s modern towers and mega shopping centers such as Abu Dhabi and Marina Mall have been recent acquisitions.

Located on an island, Abu Dhabi attracts with a mix of jaw-dropping magnificent architecture, stunning beaches, palm-lined promenades, traditional and cultural monuments, mosques, adventure-sport destinations and premium ultramodern shopping plazas.

We travelled from Dubai to Abu Dhabi on a comfortable bus. Due to its less extended network of metropolitan public transport, the use of scooters was very convenient to explore the waterfront Corniche, with its white sandy beaches and generous promenade. Stretching along the entire length of the northwest shore of the city, it offers plenty of opportunities for swimming, relaxing in a shadow under palm trees, playing on beautiful green areas, enjoying the gardens or just people watching.

More conservative dressing and higher rate of Muslim population than in Dubai is notable, even though most of the people are expats, not locals. The Promenade is an excellent area for observation of iconic high-rise tower blocks, including the epochal Emirates Palace. It is a cultural hub of the city, combining with luxury hotel, bars and restaurants, private beach and exclusive privacy; if needed.

Late in the afternoon, we took a taxi to the other side of the city. We arrived just on time to see the biggest mosque in the UAE in the sunset. The moment was astonishing.

The last sunrays were casting a yellow-orange light on the perfect, white Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, while the crowds were gathering to the evening prayer on the world’s largest carpet.

It was so crowded we couldn’t make it to the indoor area, but the yard was quiet, clean and spacious.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is rather new, built between 1996 and 2007. Eleven years is a long period in UEA, where so many skyscrapers are raised in a matter of years. However, most of the mosques worldwide have much longer history and their construction took more time.

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque sits majestically at the entrance to Abu Dhabi City Island, distinctly visible from the three main bridges connecting the island to the main land, representing emotional connection among all UAE citizens, particularly due to being the burial place of the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, first President of the UAE, located just beside the mosque.

The size (it can accommodate 40.000 worshipers), design and natural materials used for the construction are aligned with the strategy of Emirates to strive for the best. Marble, semi – precious stones, gold, wood and other materials were imported from many different countries and sources. Architecture is inspired by different mosques, historic periods and cultures. All of add to the complexity of construction.

Over 80 marble domes, four minarets at height of 107 meters, 100,000 tons of pure white marble, floral designs with semi-precious stones, chandeliers with Swarovski crystals and of course the carpet.

Pure perfection of the carpet is a result of 1,200 craftsmen working for 11 years to complete it – 5,700 square meters is covered with 2.2 billion knots.

In 2022, I visited Dubai on a business trip. Arriving late at night didn’t impede me to take a metro and travel for almost an hour to my hotel in Dubai Marina, one of my favorite parts of City of Gold.

It was a great location for visiting the World Expo, smart cafes and line waterside promenade – Dubai Marina Walk. Marina Mall, upscale yachts cruise through the large man-made marina and a lot of people walking around create a great vibe at any time of the day or night.

I took advantage of a day off to visit the World Expo 2020 (postponed due to Covid-19) – 5 square kilometers exhibition, where 200+ pavilions are organized in sub-themes of Opportunity, Mobility and Sustainability. It can take days to visit all of them, but I made a plan to stop by the pavilions of countries that I hadn’t visited yet. Most of them were simple and standard with basic exhibition.

Hosts were regularly busy navigating on their cell phones, instead of attending infrequent visitors. Some pavilions were astonishing from outside, but missing the true purpose of their luxury and bulky spaces.

At the end of the day, I couldn’t really understand what the purpose of this world fair is. Maybe investing all this money into sustainability or action project could have more significant impact.

For the next few nights, I was accommodated in a luxury hotel at the The Palm Jumeirah with a surreal view to Burj al Arab and luxurious skyscrapers of downtown on one side, while Marina edifices and panorama of inside bays were calling my attention from the other side. If 18 years ago I was only an observer of man-made islands, this time I could actually enjoy all the extravagance and imagination of the rich people.

Sand beach and turquoise sea are outstanding, prices for any additional services are crazy. It seems prohibitive renting any equipment or drinking a cocktail on the beach. I preferred swimming and sunbathing.

Upon evaluating my current circumstances, less than two decades since my first trip to Dubai as a modest traveler, I am astonished by my good fortune. Nevertheless, I remain a backpacker at heart, finding greater comfort in carrying my backpack, engaging with local communities, and embracing a more adventurous lifestyle.

For the federation to be known as the United Arab Emirates, which was formally established in 1971, the growth and development in the last decades have been unprecedented: impressive police cars, the safest city in the world (Abu Dhabi), luxury malls, the tallest building of Burj Khalifa, six of the world tallest hotels in the world. Prior to the discovery of oil in the mid-20^th century, the UAE’s economy was based primarily on fishing and pearl industry. In 2021 the UAE created the world’s first government ministry for artificial intelligence.

The UAE appears to be a continuous source of innovative concepts, advancements, and luxury.

One of the fastest changing countries of the world has transformed progressively since my first visit in 2004 until the last time I attended the World Expo exhibition in 2022. From a tiny emirate with a tremendous idea of creating an attractive destination to visit, live and shopping in 2004, the UAE has developed into a Middle East super power that no one can ignore anymore. Being business, politics, tourism, security, technology or entertaining, United Arab Emirates (especially Dubai) are the main player.

The biggest change in the last decade is that even the UAE has competition in the region these days. Qatar, Bahrain, Kuwait and, recently, Saudi Arabia, adopted Dubai’s model and have followed the path with very similar strategy.

I didn’t have a chance, nor interest to search for original, old Emirates during my visit, but I believe there is very little to find from nomadic life in desert, where surviving with basic needs in harsh conditions is a must. I guess, nobody complains about that!