Oman

My Oman travel summary:

Visited: January 2017

Duration of visit: 6 days

Capital city: Muscat

Population: 4.6 million (2017)

Oman travel blog reading time: 9 minutes

• Easygoing Muscat with its Grand Mosque, Royal Opera House and lively souk.
• Sitting on a cliff in Wadi Ghul and looking down into the valley a kilometer below.
• Looking out over the fortress, palm trees, and mud houses in Bahla.
• Driving over dunes and watching the sunset in Wahiba Sands.
• Talking openly with locals who take an active part in tourism.

After visiting Qatar and the UAE, I continued travelling with my family to the Sultanate of Oman. It felt like one of the most balanced and normal countries in the region in terms of religion, politics, and the economy. Friendly people, untouched nature, and a good mix of locals and foreigners made my experience great.

Oman is the oldest continuously independent state in the Arab world.

The Pearl of Arabia is one of the safest and most stable countries in this volatile region; the Omani people boast a virtually non-existent crime rate.

This is mainly due to strict Sharia law in the country, which enforces tough punishments for crimes. The Al Said family has ruled Oman continuously since 1744, making it Arabia’s longest-ruling dynasty.

The country lacks Saudi-level oil and gas wealth and isn’t racing to modernize like the UAE.

The capital Muscat sits on the Gulf of Oman, surrounded by mountains and desert. Until 1970 it gave its name also to the country, which was then called the State of Muscat and Oman.

Muscat blends modern and old buildings with upscale malls, while clifftop landmarks and the Portuguese forts Al Jalali and Mirani rise over the harbor. Its modern, marble-clad Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, lively souk, palaces and old town combine the past and future in a pleasant form.

The most interesting part of Muscat for me is the area from Muttrah to old town, which is connected with coastal road along Gulf of Oman.

Muttrah Souk attracted mostly locals, since during my visit tourists were still not very common in Oman. The central souk stretches for kilometers and is still the main place for activity. It’s one of the oldest markets in the Arab peninsula, renovated in the 1970s and extended recently. Sections of jewelry, gold, silver, perfumes, spices, clothes and shoes are infused with smell of frankincense.

Oman is a key producer of Frankincense. Frankincense has been highly valued in the Arab world for millennia. So much, that it was one of the three gifts presented to Baby Jesus.

Frankincense is an aromatic resin used in incense and perfumes, obtained from trees of the genus Boswellia in the family Burseraceae. It was traditionally applied in religious rites and medicine, and today it’s also used in aromatherapy and as a natural air freshener. Frankincense is considered The King of Oils because of its versatility.

Stand owners were extremely polite and willing to explain or show their goods without pressure to buy. In any case, bargaining is tough, and I had to stay firm to avoid paying too much. Walking around the Muttrah Souk was the highlight for me and the best thing to do in the capital.

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is the best example of fine Arabic architecture in Oman. Its four minarets, gold dome, and white marble floors shine brightly. The mosque is one of the largest in the Gulf, with space for about 20,000 worshippers in two prayer halls. It is also one of the most beautiful and extravagant modern mosques in the world.

When it first opened, the mosque featured the world’s largest chandelier, weighing 8.5 tons. It also displayed the world’s largest single-piece carpet, which is now the second largest. It’s a masterpiece with 1.7 billion knots, measuring 60×70 meters and weighing 21 tons.

I loved walking around the mosque. The colorful mosaic patterns, high ceilings, and the well-kept garden were beautiful. The masterpiece of Arabic architecture and one of the main attractions in Muscat.

It took ten years to build the Royal Opera House in Muscat. It is a center for the arts, offering diverse programs and events that enrich local culture. The theatre includes an auditorium, gardens, and an arts center, and it can host 1,100 people for major events.

Although I didn’t attend any events at the Opera House, the technical features and splendid architectural details immediately impressed me.

The list of prominent guests who have performed here, including Placido Domingo and Andrea Bocelli, caught my attention as well.

Some camels stood in front of the Opera House, and I talked to the kids about climbing one and taking photos. Suddenly, a man approached me and started to talk in Slovenian. A fellow citizen from my home country was working as a programming manager of the Opera. Quite a remarkable job position!

Al Alam Palace, in the heart of Old Muscat, is the most important palace of the ruling monarch of Muscat, Sultan Qaboos. Other palaces sit across the kingdom, but this royal residence gives a rare glimpse into the upper ranks of Oman’s royal family. It was built in 1972 and is one of the most extravagant examples of modern Islamic design in the world.

Al Alam features polished marble, bold colors, and intricate patterns. Its central cube-shaped building is flanked by large wings and faces a wide boulevard. Today it serves official functions and welcomes distinguished visitors.

One thing I like about Oman is the scale of its monuments and buildings. They are small but stylish. I didn’t see any huge structures or landmarks that dominate the skyline or attract crowds of selfie-taking visitors.

My Oman travel adventure continued as we rented a car to explore other parts of the country. The road system is good and driving culture is at rather high level. The number one priority to visit was the Grand Canyon of Oman – Wadi Ghul. Oman’s most famous natural landmark.

We reached the canyon from above, passing Ghul village with its small huts and sheep that entertained my kids. Whenever we made a short stop we were surrounded by barren landscape in the form of a desert, rocky hills and mountains. The kids ran out of the car and we climbed the closest serpentine, collecting stones to form small pillars.

Wadi Ghul is about a kilometer deep in some sections, and its highest point reaches 3,009 meters above sea level.

Beautiful sunny weather, clear view and hardly any other visitors created a spectacular atmosphere. Even though the area offers amazing trails with incredible views, we chose to walk the Balcony Walk. This spectacular path runs along the canyon’s rocky rim and leads to an old abandoned village.

We walked only a short part of the trail. The kids were too small for the trail. It would have been too risky to guide them along the steep cliff with a one-kilometer drop below.

The ancient Omani capital of Nizwa comes to life every Friday for the weekly livestock market. Farmers and traders bring prducts to barter and trade at one of the best traditional markets in the Middle East. Animals, fish, and all kinds of goods, along with sellers and buyers, create a fascinating scene.

It’s all very atmospheric and photogenic, a good opportunity to pop into the stalls selling textiles and other fun souvenirs. The best thing to do is just walk around and observe trading activities.

I didn’t find many camels around anymore (I guess we were late). What really caught my attention was a group of six men sitting in a circle, discussing the daggers laid out between them.

A dagger is a weapon that originated in Oman and was spread to other countries mainly during the Ottoman empire era.

Originally meant for defense, the dagger has lost its role as a weapon over time and is now carried as a ceremonial item. It has become a symbol of pride and can be found on the national emblem of Oman.

My next Oman travel destination was Bahla, known for having one of the country’s oldest fortresses.

The town is surrounded by the remains of a fortified wall that stretches 12 kilometers. Most buildings are constructed of traditional mud brick, hundreds of years old.

I started to explore one of Oman’s oldest oasis towns and once the capital of the sultanate from the fortress. Attractive towers, labyrinths and stairs that lead to different roofs and platforms, were funny to hide away from the kids. From the top, I enjoyed a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains. I spotted date palm plantations and mud houses around the old souk.

Bahla is also home to magical pottery creations, copper artefacts and silver daggers. We spent the afternoon in a renovated mud house, where a friendly lady demonstrated bread making and the coffee ceremony.

In another room, we dressed in traditional clothes and took selfies.

Visiting the desert and camping outdoors is one of the must things to do in Oman.

Locals usually do it simply, using their own gear and 4WD jeeps. Many expensive and luxury options cater to wealthy tourists. I chose a basic site in a natural setting, close enough to the main road for our small sedan.

Al Areesh Camp is the only camp you can reach without a 4WD, and it was the cheapest option in Wahiba Sands.

We left the huts for later. First, we explored the immense dunes with fine sand, a perfect playground for the kids. For adults, the dunes provided a marvelous spot to watch the spectacular sunset.

The next day, I hired a local driver with a Toyota Landcruiser, who looked more like an untrained teenager than an experienced chauffeur. He skillfully navigated the soft sand and challenges of the desolate landscape around our camp.

Half an hour later we were all screaming, yelling and holding on to our seats, while enjoying descending and ascending dunes like in a roller coaster.

Before the final descent, we stopped atop a 100-meter-high dune to boost our adrenaline. The driver raced down into the valley, while we were screaming with excitement.

It was fun, exciting and reasonably priced! Another highlight in Oman!

Our last stop before a late-night flight home was Mutrah Corniche in Muscat. This three-kilometer promenade along the waterfront is lined with restaurants, cafés, and markets. We spent time at this great spot to relax on the sandy beach and simply watch the locals.

I rented a jet ski and rode the waves around the bay within a strictly defined zone. The kids were playing with sand on the beach. The water was too cold for swimming. It was a great spot to finish the family adventure in this tranquil and captivating country.

I believe Oman has found a perfect balance between traditions, culture and foreign influences to modernize the country.

At the same time, it allows people to stay connected with nature, religion, history, and traditions in a positive way.

Development may not be as fast as in some other oil-rich countries in the region. Nevertheless, sustainability and balance ensure a good quality of life and make traveling enjoyable, allowing visitors to explore authentic landmarks and attractions.