Turkey – Long trip

Visited: August 2004

Duration of visit: 16 days

Capital city: Ankara

Population: 85 million (2022)

Turkey Long trip travel blog reading time: 14 minutes

• Istanbul with its bazaars, delicious food and historic landmarks
• The capital city of Ankara, marked by Kemal Atatürk’s mausoleum.
• Cappadocia – the land of fairy chimneys and unique cone-shaped rock formations.
• Bathing in a natural complex of strange snow-white limestone structures at Pamukkale.
• Sunset and sunrise on top of the Throne of the Gods – Mount Nemrut.
• Underdeveloped Kurdish region in Eastern Turkey.

I’ve had the chance to visit Turkey several times: as a backpacker, for business, and in 2022 I even drove my own car around Istanbul during a family trip through the Balkans.

In this article I describe my long trip to Turkey in 2004:

• Edirne – the capital of the former Ottoman empire
• Istanbul landmarks, places to visit and things to do
• Pamukkale thermal pools
• The legacy of Kemal Atatürk
• Cappadocia underground caves
• Malatya and Mount Nemrut
• Underdeveloped Kurdish region

More articles about Turkey are available here:   

Turkey was part of my overland trip from Europe, through the Middle East and East Africa – the African Big Tour in 2004. During this trip, I visited the most important regions of the country from Istanbul, Ankara, Izmir, Cappadocia, Pamukkale and Eastern provinces.

My first touch with Turkey in 2004 was a blast. As I was crossing the border from Bulgaria, I somehow ended walking for 3.5 kilometers during the midday heat to reach Edirne. It wasn’t my original plan, but the result of bad planning, stubbornness, and underestimating the size of the former Ottoman Empire. When you come from Europe, where you can cross countries in a few hours, Turkey’s size becomes very obvious.

I began my journey in Edirne, a city rich in history but largely overlooked by tourists today. Still, it gave me a good idea of what to expect during the next four weeks of travel.

My first stop was the 16^th-century Selimiye Mosque, a great place to visit with its large dome and four minarets. It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011. I tried some traditional Turkish food (börek, baklava) and I was positively surprised by the kindness of locals, who were greeting and offering me help.

I continued my trip to Istanbul by train, trying to understand the rules about women’s dress code in Turkey. The majority of elder women were covered from head to toe, while younger females and girls were walking around in t-shirts.

I shared a cabin with Nihal, a young female entrepreneur, who was working for Herbalife – a global multi-level marketing corporation of dietary supplements. She explained me about the dual aspects of Turkish reality for women: there is no requirement to cover or wear specific clothing; it depends more on family believes and traditions.

Since the time of legendary president Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, who directed Turkey with progressive views and applied many revolutionary changes, women have a unique position for a Muslim country.

Beside family traditions, location on the countryside or in the city can also make a big difference for women liberty and position in society.

The city of Istanbul features a European and an Asian side, separated by the Bosporus Strait, which connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara.

The impact of Istanbul is undeniable; the city captivated me at every turn. From bustling markets and historic mosques to seaside walks along the Bosporus, I was struck by its controlled chaos, friendly people, and inviting atmosphere.

Besides the traditional sightseeing, attractions, and famous places to visit, I also attended a basketball game between Turkey and Slovenia. The final of the Efes Pilsen Tournament was played on the western outskirts of the city.

I took a tram to the last stop, and a policeman guided me to the bus station. The bus driver dropped me at a dark street’s end for free and gave directions to the sports hall where the event was held.

After the game, an unknown lady guided me over a kilometer to a tram stop at 11:00 pm, staying with me until she was sure I was safe before heading home.

Kindness from strangers is often the most rewarding gift at the end of the day and one of the key reasons I keep traveling.

Dolmabahçe Palace was the administrative center of the late Ottoman Empire in the 19^th century and one of the most glamourous palaces in the world. After walking through some of the halls, harem, rooms and the garden, I agree with this evaluation.

The quality of work, dedication, architecture and size could easily set side by side with Buckingham palace, Palace of Versailles or any other mighty buildings of European leaders.

Dolmabahçe Palace served as a home to six Sultans from 1856 until 1924. It has an area of 45,000m² containing 285 rooms, 46 halls, 6 hamams and 68 toilets.

Elements from the Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical styles are blended with traditional Ottoman architecture to create a new synthesis. After the fall of the Ottoman Empire, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk also lived there, spending his final days in the palace. He died on 10 November 1938 in a bedroom in the former harem.

After his death, all the palace clocks were stopped at 9:05 am. Those outside his room were later reset, the one in his room still remains frozen at that moment.

Dolmabahçe Palace and a lush garden showcasing rare plants truly impressed me. But its extravagance helped drive the empire into bankruptcy, marking the beginning of the Osmanli dynasty’s decline.

Today the palace is a museum, and for me it’s one of Istanbul’s most emblematic places alongside Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque. The main reason is the connection with Ataturk, whose progressive, liberal vision reshaped Turkey by clearly separating religion from politics.

Grand Bazaar and Spice Bazar are the most famous markets that have recently become a magnet for tourists.

The Grand Bazaar dates back to 1455. It has grown into a maze of more than 60 streets and over 4,000 shops, giving work to around 25,000 people.

I preferred wandering through different parts of the city and taking in the vibrant, informal bazaars where street sellers offered anything imaginable. Cooked corn in the park near Hagia Sofia tasted amazing. So did the simple fried fish sandwich from a boat in Beyoğlu. Freshly made baklava or Turkish delight from the famous Hafiz Mustafa 1864 shop are delicious.

Creative and humorous vendors of unique Turkish ice cream consistently attract the attention of pedestrians as they playfully tease unsuspecting ice cream enthusiasts eager to grasp a cone. Dondurma ice cream is based on salep powder and mastic (aromatic resin from mastic trees) that gives this unusual ice cream a unique flavor and the ability to be stretchy, like a gum.

Beyoğlu is a modern district on the European side of İstanbul. Taksim square, the great pedestrian avenue of Istiklal and Galata Tower represents some of the highlights in this area. It is a symbol of the heyday of Constantinople on one side, but also reflecting decline of Istanbul in the 1990s.

Beyoğlu became a highlight for me, offering everything from good meals to nightlife, all wrapped in a creative, bohemian atmosphere.

Istiklal Street is probably the most famous street and entertainment area in Istanbul. It is a long colorful pedestrian street full of all kind of shops, restaurants, cafes and street shows. It was safe and delightful walking around at any time of the day.

Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque are Istanbul’s greatest Islamic monuments. Commissioned by Sultan Ahmet, they stand as the first and the last structures ever built on such a grand scale. The Blue Mosque is still an active place of worship, renowned for its captivating tile work made of 20,000 individual tiles.

Hagia Sophia was built as a church in the 6^th century, converted into a mosque in 1453 and declared a museum in 1934.

It once served as a center of religious, political, and artistic life for the Byzantine world. Today it is Istanbul’s most visited attraction.

The number of tourists between my visits in 2004 and 2022 has increased dramatically. The area can be hectic during the day, when tour groups create long queues. My favorite time for visit is late evening or even at night, when the atmosphere is much more serene and relaxed.

From Istanbul, I continued my travel on luxury buses. My first stop was the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Pamukkale.

Cotton Castle, the English translation of Pamukkale, is a surreal white landscape of small pools filled with thermal water. The water flows down the hillside, creating unique snow-white limestone formations shaped like natural swimming pools.

These large basins have been used for bathing since Roman times. These days, Pamukalle is a popular tourist destination. I spent the entire afternoon in this beautiful natural complex, walking through the pools and bathing in its healing water.

The spectacular sunset at the end of the day, when all daily visitors were long gone, was the highlight.

PS: Unfortunately, I lost all photos from Pamukkale.

Ankara is the capital of Turkey, located in the central Anatolia region. Compared to Istanbul, Ankara offers fewer memorable places to visit and fewer enjoyable things to do. One of the most notable examples of modern architecture that marks Ankara is the enormous hilltop Mausoleum of Kemal Atatürk. The first president of modern Turkey made Ankara the capital in 1923.

Kemal Atatürk was a Turkish field marshal, revolutionary statesman, author, and the founding father of the Republic of Turkey. He served as its first president from 1923 until his death in 1938.

He undertook sweeping progressive reforms, which modernized Turkey into a secular, industrial nation. He initiated a rigorous program of political, economic, and cultural reforms with the ultimate aim of building a modern state.

I believe President Atatürk helped Turkey connect with modern Europe. His reforms brought stability and progress to a shaky region in the early 21^st century.

For me, a fun experience in Ankara was watching a movie in a local cinema. It was actually a modern movie theater with latest technology, comfortable seats and all perks that makes cinema more enjoyable. The movie was in English with Turkish subtitles. I was probably the only visitor who wasn’t Turkish.

After 45 minutes the projection was stopped, the lights turned on and suddenly everybody was leaving the theater. I followed the crowd to the street in search of fresh air and discovered that it was time for a cigarette and coffee break. 10 minutes later we returned to our seats and continued watching the movie until the end.

A remarkable experience to merge the thrilling action and tension of the movie with the tranquility of enjoying tea and having discussions with a companion during the break.

PS: Unfortunately, I lost all photos from Ankara.

Ankara was for me also an important stopover to get a visa for Iran, the next country I was planning to visit.

I am always scared and extremely respectful when I deal with representatives of countries that are under special regime or have a reputation of demanding long list of requirements for foreign visitors. Nevertheless, my experience at Iran Consulate was extraordinary. I was received by a young clerk who gave me forms to fill and short instructions what information should I provide.

15 minutes later, I was prepared with the necessary forms, accompanied by a recommendation letter issued by my embassy.

When I approached the clerk again, he offered me a map of Iran and started to give me advice about where to go, what to do and how do behave in local society. He invited me a cup of tea and soon we found out that we both studied economics. He inscribed his direct phone number on a sheet of paper and extended an invitation for me to return in two hours to collect my visa.

In fact, two hours later, my visa was finalized. I sipped another cup of tea in his company, while he shared further beneficial advice about exploring Iran.

I had heard and read so much about Cappadocia that I expected just another tourist trap. I thought I would see crowds of tourists instead of experiencing the region’s remarkable natural landscapes. But the experience far exceeded my expectations, and it became clear that Cappadocia is truly exceptional.

“If I had had more money, I would have taken a hot-air balloon flight over the valley. Nevertheless, climbing one of the hills in Göreme and catching a sight of sunset over the distinctive fairy chimneys, was like experiencing the best goodnight fairy tale for adults.

The whole area is pretty big, so I decided to take an organized tour that would transport me to the most popular locations, where cone-shaped rock formations can be observed.

For centuries, Cappadocia’s soft stone allowed people to carve underground shelters, where stable temperatures protected them from extreme weather.

The countryside around Göreme is filled with cavern architecture, fresco-adorned rock-cut churches, and carved houses and monasteries. Its spectacular pillars and minaret-like formations make the whole landscape look as out of this world.

I stayed in a simple cave hotel that was dug up from the rock and had great conversations with my host Tarig – a carpet reseller. No deal was closed, but I learned a lot about his family, traditions and lifestyle in Cappadocia.

PS: Unfortunately, I lost all photos from Cappadocia.

Malatya is the world capital of apricots. About 50% of the fresh apricot production and 95% of the dried apricot production in Turkey come from here.

Malatya is the world’s leading apricot producer. It accounts for about 15% of global fresh apricots and 75% of dried apricot production.

Apricots were accompanying me on every corner: in sweetshops, on markets, billboards and also in many different forms: fresh, dry, sweet, etc. I have never eaten so many forms of apricots in one day as during the visit of Malatya, which also served as a base to explore the nearby Mount Nemrut.

PS: Unfortunately, I lost all photos from Malatya and Nemrut Daği.

I gathered a group of backpackers from my guesthouse to climb the 2,134-metre peak together. We were a mix of Japanese, Korean, and French adventurers in a minibus heading out for a two-day trip. The Japanese girl with her Polaroid became the star, snapping photos of everyone we met and handing out prints within seconds.

In 62 BC, King Antiochus I Theos of Commagene built a tomb-sanctuary flanked by huge statues of himself, lions, eagles, Greek and Iranian gods. These 9-metres high structures stood at the summit of Mount Nemrut. Their heads have since fallen and now lie scattered across the site.

We drove up the mountain in the late afternoon and walked the last part to reach the summit half an hour before the sunset. Perfect timing!

The magic of Mount Nemrut, its UNESCO-listed landscape, and a stunning sunset were one of the highlights of my Turkish trip.

It quickly became dark and chilly so we returned to the bus and to a nearby village at the bottom of the mountain where we spent the night. It was only a short sleep before repeating the exercise next morning.

We were on the top of Throne of the Gods, as Mount Nemrut is usually referred to, before the sunrise. This time there were no other visitors and I can still not decide if sunrise was even more spectacular than the sunset on the previous evening.

I immensely appreciated thee initial rays of sunlight. They warmed me up and gave me energy to continue my trip toward Eastern Turkey and Iran.

PS: Unfortunately, I lost all photos from Malatya and Nemrut Daği.

Upon my return from Iran, I visited the Eastern part of Turkey. The region is much less developed then the rest of the country, and it is populated predominantly by Kurds, the largest ethnic minority in Turkey. While Kurds inhabit multiple provinces across Turkey, they are predominantly located in the eastern and southeastern regions. They are commonly identified as Turkish Kurdistan.

During my visit to the regions of Van, Diyarbakir and Sanliurfa I did not observe any signs of tension or conflict.

Here are some notes from my diary:

Kayseri is a large industrial city, and I remember it mostly for the kebabs, which seemed to be the only food available in the restaurants where I stopped.

Van has the majority of Kurdish population and a few interesting places to visit. I found the bazaar very authentic, and the mosques had beautiful indoor paintings. I also enjoyed the many teahouses that gave me a chance to chat with locals.

The Van Citadel stands on a steep hill overlooking the waters of Van Lake. It was very cold at night in October and I enjoyed a company of kids that guided me on the path to the Citadel.

Sanilurfa was actually just a stopover before crossing to Syria. After an overnight bus ride from Van, I arrived to a hotel at 4:00am. People filled the reception, eating, drinking tea, and talking.

I thought that there was a big party or celebration going on, since everybody was inviting me to join them. Later I realized it was the first day of Ramadan and people woke up early enough to eat a good breakfast before sunrise.