Mogadishu

Visited: October 2025

Duration of visit: 4 days

Capital city: Mogadishu (Somalia)

Population: 19.65 million (2025) – Somalia

Mogadishu travel blog reading time: 5 minutes

• Driving around in an armored vehicle with security guards.
• A destroyed city center – a lasting symbol of the civil war.
• Excellent seafood and fresh natural juices.
• Sandy beach, turquoise sea and great food at Lido Beach.

Somalia is one of the most bizarre countries in the world, where human values, development and respect have completely failed. Constant disputes, wars and conflicts have divided the impoverished country into two parts, and most people are struggling to survive.

The country is divided into two self-governing entities that could not be more different: The Federal Republic of Somalia and The Republic of Somaliland.

In this article I describe some highlights of my trip to Mogadishu, the capital of Somalia, in 2025:

• “Where is your invitation letter?”
• Security is the top priority
• The ruins of Mogadishu
• Enchanting Lido Beach

More articles about my Somalia adventures are available here:

The fact that the Turkish Airlines flight from Istanbul to Mogadishu was only one-third full, gave me a sense of comfort, and at the same time confirmed that Somalia is not a popular destination. When I arrived, I presented my printed e-visa, but the immigration officer still insisted on seeing my letter of invitation.

“I don’t have the invitation letter with me. I thought the e-visa would be enough,” I tried to explain.

My excuse didn’t convince the official.

“Sit on that bench and get the invitation letter. You have thirty minutes!” were not the welcoming words I had expected.

A local man kindly shared his mobile data, allowing me to get in touch with my hosts. Ten minutes later, the immigration officer came back, pressing me again to show the invitation letter. Fortunately, it was all resolved in five minutes. Once I showed the letter on my phone, the officer finally stamped my passport.

I settled down in a hotel, just 2 minutes walking from the airport entrance. Decale hotel is a safe, upscale hotel, frequented mostly by Turkish guests. Not the most pleasant stuff, services, nor delicious food, but it was OK.

I quickly realized how strict the security measures were for anyone visiting Mogadishu. Without escorts and an armored vehicle, my hosts didn’t allow me to leave the Green Zone at all. Even then, our movements were limited to the central area, where most government institutions are located.

Security checkpoints are set up every few hundred meters. They are thorough and efficient.

Young members of the army, police or private security check vehicle plates, passengers, and sometimes also inspect for explosives under the car.

Traffic in downtown Mogadishu was extremely light. Apart from the tuk-tuks, known as bajajs, the streets were mostly frequented by armored white Toyota SUVs belonging to the UN, international military forces, government officials or wealthy individuals. Motorbikes and local vans are rare, at least in the city center.

Mogadishu was first devastated after the fall of dictator Siad Barre in 1991, when rival militias turned the capital into a battlefield. During the mid-2000s, intense fighting between Ethiopian and government troops and Al-Shabaab insurgents left whole districts in ruins.

Even today, traces of those bombardments, which ended in 2011, remain visible across the city. Many buildings remain in their original, war-torn state. I didn’t notice much new construction, although the roads are in relatively good condition.

Although at the security situation seemed calm and under control, according to online reports, the reality is still far more dangerous than it might appear.

Since my primary reason for visiting Somalia was business rather than tourism, sightseeing was not a priority and was mostly depending on work commitments and safety considerations. It’s hard to talk about real landmarks and places to visit when security is still the main concern.

Somalia has the longest coastline in mainland Africa, stretching over 3,100 kilometers along the Indian Ocean. One of the best examples of the country’s beauty is a pristine beach in northern Mogadishu. Lido Beach was first developed in the late 1930s for Italian colonists and later expanded in the 1950s under UN-administered Italian rule.

Today, Lido Beach is a long, sandy stretch along the azure waters of the Indian Ocean, lined with numerous upscale restaurants. From the rooftop terrace of one of them, I watched scenes that felt ordinary: children, men, and fully veiled women swimming and playing in the shallow turquoise water. Fishermen were looking for customers to take them around the bay in their boats, while families were calmly relaxing under stretched canvas roofs.

Although long trousers, a shirt, and shoes weren’t ideal for a walk on the beach, I asked my hosts if I could take a short stroll on the beautiful sandy shore. It took them quite a while to grant me the permission and arrange two armed guards to accompany me. I soon regretted it, as I didn’t feel comfortable at all. Next time, I’ll bring my swimsuit, mix with the people and dive into the turquoise sea.

Excellent beach, delicious seafood, freshly made juice from locally grown fruits and friendly people are Mogadishu’s great tourism potential; once safety can be guaranteed.

Later, I read on Wikipedia that, despite the security measures, Al-Shabaab attacks remain common on Lido Beach: a suicide car bombing in 2016, a hotel attack in 2020, a suicide bombing at a restaurant in 2022, a hotel attack in 2023, and a suicide bombing with a mass shooting in 2024.

Yeah, safety here is anything but guaranteed. You have to stay cautious.