Somalia

Visited: March 2023

Duration of visit: 7 days

Capital city: Hargeisa (Somaliland), Mogadishu (Somalia)

Population: Somaliland 3.5 million (2023), Somalia 18.2 million (2023)

• 23 hours drive in a Landcruiser through the desert from the border of Djibouti to the capital Hargeisa.
• The capital Hargeisa with a positive energy, the vibrance of never-ending market and a special atmosphere where backpackers and tourist are the main attraction.
• Paying in cash, while everybody else uses a mobile payment system that can be applied for any transaction from any cell phone in seconds.
• Visiting rock art and caves Laas Geel, accompanied by a taxi driver, who also served as a security guard.
• Berbera – the city of barber shops, fish distributers, a center of maritime trade, USSR naval base and an emergency landing strip for US space shuttle program.
• Traffic chaos of tuk-tuks and pleasant conversations at animal market in Burao.

The Republic of Somaliland is an unrecognized, de-facto sovereign state in the Horn of Africa, still considered internationally to be part of Somalia.

In international news, it is often confused or taken in consideration as a solid part of the whole country of Somalia. A constitutional referendum was held in Somaliland on the 31^st of May 2001, when 99.9% of eligible voters took part and 97% of them voted in favor of the constitution.

Statistically, Somaliland has the fourth lowest GDP per capita in the world, and there are huge socio-economic challenges with an official unemployment rate reaching 70% among youth. Livestock is the backbone of Somaliland’s economy. Sheep, camels, and cattle are shipped from the Berbera port and sent to Gulf countries, such as Saudi Arabia.

Illiteracy is huge, up to 70% in several rural areas, women are strongly oppressed and limited. Over 90% of girls and women have been subjected to female genital mutilation (FMG) between age 5 and 11. FGM is prohibited under the Somaliland Constitution, but the continuing lack of a national law criminalizing and punishing all forms of FGM undermines the efforts of all parties working to end the practice within the country.

Since Somaliland is unrecognized, international donors have found it difficult to provide aid. As a result, the government relies mainly upon tax receipts and remittances from the large Somaliland diaspora, which contribute immensely to Somaliland’s economy.

Based on previous investigation, facts and current reality of Somaliland, I hadn’t had any expectation beside safety and meeting people who struggle to survive from day to day. Tourist attractions don’t even exist, due to the fact that most of the infrastructure and urban areas were destroyed during fights with Somalia approximately thirty years ago.

I visited Somaliland as a part of Horn of Africa trip, which also included Eritrea and Djibouti in March 2023. I entered Somaliland through the Loyada – Lawyacado land border crossing from Djibouti. Since my visa was previously approved by Somaliland mission in Djibouti, I didn’t have to pay any extra fees at the border. Contrasting with Djibouti officials, who were asking many questions in a negative tone, the Somaliland official was extremely welcoming, giving me some advices and wishing a good stay in his country.

While waiting to continue travelling overnight in a 4WD Landcruiser, I managed to buy a local SIM card, get spaghetti and tea for dinner and even change some franks to local Somaliland shillings. One of the cheapest SIM cards in my life at 1.00US$ was quickly installed and credit for another dollar was added to my account. Pasta with tomato sauce was plain, Somali tea with milk and sugar delicious. What a change from expensive Djibouti, where uninspiring Lipton black tea and high prices were killing my budget on every step.

At 8:00pm our driver was ready; all passengers took their seats and the night adventure could start. Two French speaking Djiboutian ladies in the front, three Somali women in the middle and three men in the back seats. “These are the best seats, the most comfortable! You will see when we start moving and getting some fresh breeze through the window!”, were encouraging words of my new friend Mohamed, who was the communication channel through the rest of the trip, since his English was at a very good intermediate level.

As soon as we left the village, the dirt road disappeared: only wheel tracks were visible in soft sand.

Approximately ten Landcruisers were travelling in a convoy at a safe distance, helping each other to find the best track, avoiding soft sand and big holes that were often filled up with water. The rainy season had recently started.

At 10:00pm, we stopped on a bank of a swollen river with a large quantity of water that appeared in front of us. There was no detour available and we were forced to wait. People sat around on the plain ground, started to chew khat and talk. “We need to wait an hour or two, there is nothing we can do!”, was the general opinion. I was tired, three seats in the back of the car were empty. I laid down and tried to sleep.

I woke up at 4:00am, when we started to cross the river. I couldn’t believe that other passengers were sitting outside for six hours, talking and waiting for the river to calm down. We were supposed to arrive to Hargeisa at sunrise, but we were only finishing breakfast at the first checkpoint when sunrise occurred. The temperatures increased quickly and I received an official confirmation that travelling at night is mainly due to desert heat, which could be very uncomfortable, especially in the summer time.

At 2:00pm we reached a small village, where we were directed to the nearby bushes, from which a large group of men appeared. “It is lunch time! A local celebration! They killed a camel and invited a part of our convoy to join them at the feast free of charge.” The food was ready. Two huge pots of cooked meat and another pot of rice. I politely denied camel meat and struggled to use my fingers to fill up my mouth with burning-hot rice. The food was uninspiring, but the atmosphere and kindness of Somalilanders was limitless.

We arrived to Hargeisa at 4:00pm, exactly 23 hours after the beginning of our adventure in Djibouti City. Since there is no road to measure, it is hard to define the exact distance, but I estimate we navigated approximately 280 kilometers through roadless territories of Somaliland. I was crushed and ready for a god meal, before laying down for a long sleep.

What can you expect form the capital and, by far, the largest city of a non-existing country, which was heavily bombed and completely destroyed during the Somaliland War of Independence from 1981 till 1991?

The Somaliland War of Independence was a rebellion waged by the Somali National Movement (SNM) against the ruling military junta in Somalia led by General Siad Barre. The rebellion was in response to the harsh policies enacted by the Barre regime against the main clan family in Somaliland – the Isaaq. Barre ordered the shelling and aerial bombardment of the major cities in the northwest and the systematic destruction of Isaaq dwellings, settlements and water points. They targeted civilian members of the Isaaq group specifically, especially in the cities of Hargeisa and Burao. The atrocities of Barre’s army were not enough to kill the spirit of Somalilanders. On 18^th of May 1991 Somali National Movement declared the northern Somalia independent as the Republic of Somaliland.

A long time ago, Hargeisa was founded as a watering and trading stop between the coast and the interior for the vast livestock of the Arab clans. It sits at an elevation of 1,334 meters, which makes it climate enjoyable throughout the year. With the population of over 750,000 people, it is a bustling trade center, boasting a range of vibrant markets and a thriving tea drinking culture – one of the very few entertainment options, for men only. As a result of investment founded by Somaliland’s large diaspora, lower old buildings have been replaced by multistory business centers, multipurpose structures, banks and numerous hotels, manly dedicated to host Somaliland expats.

My first touch with Hargeisa was after a rainy day, that turned it to a muddy city, with busy traffic, people walking all around and vendors occupying the main streets in front of shops. I arrived to the northern part of the city, tired after a long overnight expedition and desperate to get a place to rest. I quickly negotiated a fair price with a taxi driver who took me to the Oriental Hotel in downtown.

The legendary hotel was built in 1953, back when it was the only hotel in town. Observing the current status and technical solutions I can only imagine what kind of plumbers, electricians and builders were in charge during 1995 renovation.

Most of the areas could be part of an open-air museum, while my bathroom should be a case study of bad planning and even worse execution.

Many guests are merchants from other cities or Somali expats, who visit their homeland.  However, the atmosphere, central location surrounded by gold market and friendly (mostly non-English speaking) staff makes it a unique experience, that I wouldn’t want to miss. If by coincidence I meet backpackers from Slovenia and Spain in the same hotel, I am even happier that I choose it as my home in Hargeisa. The most amazing moment arrived daily at 4:30 am in the morning, when a call to prayer from the giant four-story Ali Mataan mosque right next to the hotel threw me off the bed.

There is hardly any sightseeing in Hargeisa, but the city has a positive energy, the vibrance of never-ending market and a special atmosphere where backpackers and tourist are the main attraction. Locals are eager to talk to tourists and show off the best of their country and culture. I have been approached by so many people continuously. A few of them with better knowledge of English, the majority limited to say: “Welcome. Hello. What is your name?” I felt extremely safe, welcome and appreciated in Hargeisa.

The two main attractions are the war monument and livestock market.

• The War memorial on the main street at Hargeisa’s Freedom Square was set up to commemorate the war for independence in the 1980s, and is a symbol of struggle for the people of Somaliland. It consists of a MiG-17 fighter aircraft of the Somali Air Force, which crashed nearby. The war memorial was rebuilt and redesigned in 2020. Observing the photos from the original moment, I would probably describe the previous version as much more attractive, colorful and expressive with a fresco of woman holding the flag of Somaliland looking towards the sky. Today, the base is plain and simple, but massive and stronger. I was expecting to buy magnets or other souvenirs from Somaliland in the area, but it seemed that nobody cares about scarce foreign visitors.

• Livestock market of Hargeisa is one of the biggest in the area. I walked through muddy street until got lost and stuck in the area where the mud was up to my ankles and I had to turn around to continue on a drier path. After 30 minutes, I reached the main entrance on the southeastern outskirts of town. Goats, sheep and camels are brought here every day for trade from neighboring villages. If camels are exclusively male business, goats and sheep are gathered in a group around the owners, who can be of both sexes. Special areas are dedicated to rustic tea shops, improvised kitchens with tables and chairs to serve food. People were friendly and curious about me as much as I was inquisitive about them and their animals.

While travelling in Djibouti I was warned that the situation with chewing khat in Somaliland could be even worse, but I didn’t exactly understand how this might look like. If I noticed many selling kiosks, where fully covered women were comfortably sitting behind wooden stand protected with brown mesh textile in Djibouti, the selling points around Somaliland were numbered, organized and run by males.

Illegal in many Western nations, khat is a shrub typically grown in Ethiopia, Kenya and especially Yemen. A chewer puts leaves in the mouth, chews and keep them for hours on the side of the mouth, between the gums and cheekbones. A practice deeply ingrained in some African societies, it gives the chewer a mild amphetamine-like high. Although it is mostly chewed by adult males, women and teenagers also use khat.

Khat is addictive and has taken a social and economic toll on the nation. After buying bundles of intoxicating greens, the consumers gather together in special dedicated areas, slowly pose leaves, drink water or Coca Cola and chat with their friends.

The rock art and caves at Laas Geel, situated on the outskirts of Hargeisa, are a popular tourist attraction: actually, the only real tourist attraction in the whole Somaliland.

Totaling twenty rock shelters were discovered by a French archaeological team in 2002 and are believed to date back around 5,000 years.

In order to visit them, a special permit, private vehicle and a SPU (Special Protection Units) or a security guard are needed. I got the permit at the Ministry of Tourism after paying 25.00US$ fee, but I was not willing to pay an extra hundred dollars for a tour that would include transport and security.

A young employee at the Ministry of Tourism suggested me to go there by myself and try to find a transport of the last part in a village of Dhubato. I took a public bus to Berbera, and got off in the village of Daarbuduq, hoping to find somebody to take me back to Dhubato’s main junction and extra 6 kilometers on a dirt road to the area where the caves with famous paintings are located.

The first offer for 60.00US$ was coolly denied. Walking along the main road, I saw a really old and rundown Toyota car, the only vehicle on the horizon. The owner had just started to nourish himself with a delicacy of camel meat and rice when I jumped in. In broken English I was invited to join him at a gourmet meal and started the discussion. After 15 minutes Zaid Abdulah gave me the final offer: “30 dollars for a return ride and I will also serve you as a security guard!” Deal done, everybody happy, this is Africa!

We filled up a tank with gasoline, bought khat and drove through security check all the way to Laas Geel. The old Toyota was put to the test on a rough bumpy road full of sharp stones. Khat calmed down the driver, who slowly, but surely made his way through all the obstacles. Toyota proved to be robust and sturdy, as always in the most arduous conditions.

I walked through seven shelters in Laas Geel accompanied by one of the guards in the compound. His English was funny, description plain: “Here cows, there giraffes, women, dog! Beautiful. Photo, no problem!” All kinds of animals appear on the enormously colorful paintings, where predominantly red, black, white and yellow colors were used.  Laas Geel or Camel’s Waterhole in English ranks among the oldest and best preserved of its type anywhere in Africa.

There are two main reasons why Lass Geel is so important: the quality of the images depicted is astonishing and the moment in which animals started to be domesticated is perfectly registered. The paintings have been preserved due to extremely favorable sheltered location and dry Somali climate. The vibrant colors and their rich complexity remain practically unchanged.

The most important shelter is located on the southeast face and it was the first one that I entered. With an inclined ceiling, it covers the area of almost 100 square meters. The surface is daubed with at least 350 individual paintings, which possess string colors and great precision. The most numerous figures at Laas Geel are humpless cows with curved or lyre-like white horns, followed by human or other anthropomorphic figures, which more often tend to be monochrome. Other animals, such as dogs, cows, antelopes, goats and giraffes are also present. Not much is known about the artists, but they were pastoralists and hunters, predominantly herding cattle, sheep and goats.

Zaid Abdulah drove me back to Daarbuduq, from where I caught a private van to Barbera. Driving on a perfect paved road, the time passed quickly during an excellent conversation with Mohamed. He defended me at the last checkpoint, where an official was insisting that I needed a security guard with me, since the vehicle was a private one.

The historic town of Berbera has been a center of maritime trade since ancient times. First, it was a strategic location along the ancient trade route between the Red Sea and India, later, important position during the Cold War in the 1970s, when it was transformed into an important base for the USSR, which established a naval base at the port and built the airport outside of town.

In 1980, Somalia switched its Cold War allegiance from the USSR to the USA. Americans took over the naval base and provided the airport with the longest runway strip in Africa as an emergency landing strip for its space shuttle program.

These days, Berbera is the main commercial seaport in Somaliland, converting to an export-import base that would serve, not only the capital Hargeisa, but also eastern areas of neighboring Ethiopia.

Based on rich history, strategic position and important role in the past, you could expect that Berbera is a highly developed port, where the latest technology is reflected in the wealth of the locals. Well, not really! When settling down in legendary Hotel Barwaaqo, I was not very impressed by suburbs and modern part of the town, but later I found it charming enough to walk around for the whole day.

The weather in Berbera is hot and dry. I was complaining about the heat to Abdirazak, who served me a simple breakfast at Berbera Beach Hotel, when he quickly reminded me that average temperatures in the summer exceed 40°C and can easily raise up to 50°C.

The oldest quarter of Berbera, known locally as Darole, was the main reason to visit Berbera. Most of the buildings are heavily damaged and falling apart due to lack of maintenance, but Ottoman Mosque with three-story minaret, the row of single-story homesteads, the structures enclosing Darole Square and several other mansions could have potential to attract more visitors in the future, if they could be renovated. Even though it was not the hottest part of the day, the activities were slow. People were looking for shadow, talking, sitting around empty tables in cafeterias or nicely greeting me.

The main road along the port was filled with fish merchants, whose establishments were nicely decorated and painted with clear signs of their activities. I was not allowed to enter to the pier where some fishermen boats were downloading the catch of the day. Through the torn wall along the road I found the access to the beach where young boys joined me for a refreshing swim. For me the water was too dirty to jump in.

Central Berbera is also bursting with young male population. Most people still dress in the traditional style and they are exceptionally friendly. With so much time and lack of entertainment opportunities, male friends gather together in improvised street teashops, talk for hours or just simply sit directed to the main street and observe the vehicles passing by. The most profitable or attractive business opportunity seem to be male haircuts. I don’t remember noticing so many barber shops around Somaliland, as in Berbera. Most of them are empty and the hairdresser have enough time to calmly chew khat, drink tea or relax most part of the day.

The second biggest city In Somaliland is Burao. The last place to visit, before returning back to Hargeisa. In 1988, the town was more or less abandoned as a result of the civil war, when most residents fled across the border to refugee camps in Ethiopia. The renovation started slowly since the continuous attacks didn’t stop until 1994. Today, Burao is a well-established city with solid infrastructure that attracts many Somaliland expats from Europe to start a new business in their hometown. Shops, markets and informal stands are everywhere. I didn’t see many buyers, but it seems that, somehow, everybody earns enough to keep carrying out the same activities, day after day.

Not much to see or do in Burao, but I found the people there to be the friendliest in whole Somaliland. Probably even less foreign visitors come here, since the road from Berbera is not finished yet and travelling beyond the city is not advisable due to security reasons.

After backpacking in basic conditions for some weeks through Eritrea, Djibouti and Somaliland, a nice hotel with clean room, mosquito net and soft bed can make your day. Simple, inexpensive Hayat hotel was one of those unexpected surprises that combined with exceptional staff made my visit to Burao even more memorable.

Huge amounts of tuk-tuks created a different atmosphere of the city; chaos, confrontation of drivers and chaotic traffic. I quickly found a driver, who took me to the animal market on the southern outskirts of the city. The market is claimed to be the largest in the country, attracting many nomadic traders from northern Kenya, Djibouti and Somalia. Due to the rainy weather, the trade activity was not as high as usual, according to the people I spoke with. Hardly any camels, since they tend to stay in better breeding areas outside of the city. Goats and sheep were the main animals for commerce. Traders were happy to talk with me in broken English, asking to buy their animals or only take a photo of them.

Could Somaliland, an unrecognized de-facto sovereign state which declared independence from Somalia in 1991, but is yet to gain recognition from the international community, become the world’s first cashless society?

One of the attractions in Hargeisa is money exchange market, where bunches of worthless shilling banknotes wait to be changed for US banknotes. The biggest note for 5,000 Somaliland shillings is only worth 60 cents of US dollar. Wheelbarrows are often used to move the piles of notes from one street to the next, while numerous banknotes stands are protected by strong nets.

Recently, stacks and stacks of the local devalued physical currency have been rapidly falling out of fashion. People are turning to digital payments using their mobiles, transferring money in seconds with little more than a mobile phone and a few numbers. The best part: you don’t need a smart phone, neither an app to transfer money. On a simple old fashion (Nokia), run down cell phone people just type in the receiver’s number, the amount and the currency (shilling or US$) they want to transfer. Whether a bus ticket, hotel room, a juice on a simple stand or donation to a beggar, mobile payments are fast becoming the standard in the country.

The payment system hasn’t just made life easier for consumers and merchants; it’s also made life possible for some of the poorest. In a question of seconds, the money is transferred to another phone without commission. I was one of the very few people, who still walked around with worn out, aged shilling banknotes, while most of Somalilanders are turning away from cash and embracing mobile money.

Somaliland used to be a British colony, when roads were starting to be built and therefore left-hand traffic (LHT) was implemented. These days, the right-hand traffic (RHT) system is used all over Somaliland, but most of the transport fleet consists of right-hand drive vehicles. Quite bizarre, considering the fact that the British left Somalia in 1960.

Since the steering wheels of these cars are placed on the left-hand side, the entire nation's drivers cannot overtake safely. I couldn’t find a reasonable answer why newly imported cars don’t have steering left-hand drive vehicles. Maybe it’s due to pricing, tradition or just lack of will to implement the most common and safe system that has been used worldwide.

I didn’t have many expectations before visiting Somaliland. For an unrecognized country that has been officially part of problematic, unsecure and conflictive Somalia, the main goal is to maintain general security over its territory, provide food and opportunities to people to survive and eventually get an international recognition. Tourism is not a priority and foreign visitors are mostly people coming for business, foreign refugees searching for peace or Somaliland diaspora to gather with the family. Most of the infrastructure is not old, but in rudimentary conditions, where even a hard-core backpacker (as I consider myself) has been struggling to find basic sanitary standards and stay healthy.

People are friendly, saying hello or trying to use the little English they know to wish a warm welcome to any foreigner. They wondered, why would I arrive as a backpacker, take a photo or appreciate historical buildings or colorful exhibition of products at a local market.

There's a good chance that one day Somaliland will be internationally recognized country.