Pakistan – Gilgit-Baltistan

Visited: October 2023

Length: 5 days

Capital city: Islamabad

Population: 231 million (2023)

Estimated reading time: 12 minutes

• Crazy night drive on Karakoram highway from Islamabad to Gilgit, which would go in my records as one of the most dangerous experiences of my life.
• The amazing countryside, where snow covered peaks combine with glaciers, lakes and colorful trees in late October.
• Climbing to Rakaposhi base camp at 3,450 meters above sea level.
• Master the truck art in Peshawar, one of the most vibrant cities in Pakistan.

Pakistan was part of a trip that also included Afghanistan, Tajikistan and Kazakhstan in autumn of 2023. Although my eVisa request was being ignored week after week, finally, after a month, I got the permit to visit the country. In mid-October, the temperatures in the south were pleasant, whereas the northern area was blossoming in autumn colors, though it was becoming cooler.

In this article I describe the second part of my Pakistan adventure in 2023 – the northern region Gilgit-Baltistan: snow-capped peaks and glistening glaciers of Hunza Valley, climbing to Rakaposhi base camp, getting visa for Afghanistan in Peshawar, truck art workshop, the power of army.

More articles about my adventures in Pakistan are available here:

Gilgit-Baltistan is one of the two regions administered by Pakistan as a nominally self-governing entity, which has been subject of a dispute between India and Pakistan since 1947. This unique, mountainous region has a de facto province-like status without constitutionally becoming part of Pakistan.

In 1978, the legendary Karakoram Highway was finally completed and Gilgit-Baltistan was connected with China on the north and Pakistan on the south, but inter-region travel remains as difficult as it was 100 years ago.

A group of three friends in the back, me on the front passenger seat and my friend Sohaib behind the wheel, kicked off to Gilgit at 10:00pm. The car was fixed and properly tested, the driver relaxed and rested, me eager to face the whole night drive, that would lead us via the Hazara motorway 600 kilometers far to the disputed region of Gilgit-Baltistan.

“We will arrive at 8:00am. Just sit and relax. I know the road. I have been driving this route all my life,” were the calming words of a young graduate in philosophy, when checking tire pressure at the gasoline station in Islamabad.

The ride turned out to be one of the scariest of all my life. It was very obvious that Sohaib was extremely skillful, fearless and knowledgeable about the road. However, as soon as the highway was replaced with two-ways narrow, curvy and unpredictable road, he was trying to overtake any vehicle in front of us at any cost.

Crossing the line to the left side of the road in closed curves, driving centimeters away from slower vehicles and aggressively speeding up in empty sections didn’t let me sleep not even for a second.

The Hunza Valley, nestled amidst Pakistan’s majestic Karakoram mountains, is not known only for its fruits, but especially as an enchanting paradise, offering awe-inspiring natural beauty, crystal-clear rivers, and lush green fields. During the next three days, I explored the most beautiful natural monuments at the end of the tourist season.

Mid October was perfect; very little visitors, amazing autumn colored tree leaves in a rainbow of colors from orange, red, brown and yellow. It was getting really cold at night, but during the day, perfect sunny weather permitted me to walk around comfortably dressed.

I hired a driver and headed to the Upper Hunza Valley, where the main idea was to visit one of the easily accessible glaciers in the village of Passu.

The first stop was Attabad Lake, which was created on the 4^th of January 2010, when landslide blocked the river pushing one part of the settlements into a river, resulting in 20 deaths and 8 injuries. The material effectively blocked a significant portion of the Karakoram Highway; the connection between lower and upper valley was interrupted. Today, an impressive turquoise colored lake hosts traditional boats, equipped with two engines on the sides that take tourists around.

Regular aspects of travel through this region include the rickety cable and plank bridges that cross Northern Pakistan’s mountain streams and rivers. Among these, is the Hussaini Hanging Bridge, crossing Borit Lake in the Upper Hunza. The rope bridge is long. Strong winds occasionally shake the bridge as you cross it.

Known as the most dangerous bridge in the world, it seems solid from a distance, but as soon as I started walking on it, I felt every strong movement of me or other people, walking on planks causing instability.

Standing alone in the middle of the bridge, above Hunza River, overlooking the surrounding peaks, I lost the fear and felt really connected with nature.

For the return I chose a zipline; quicker and more adrenaline pumped way of transport.

Not far from the river is Passu Glacier, easily accessed by car on a solid macadam road.  A simple walk of approximately 15 minutes, brought me to the view point on a cliff from where a spectacular view over glacier opens.

Fed by the snow and ice that accumulate in the surrounding mountains, the glacier moves slowly downhill for around 19 kilometers. Due to global warming, Passu Glacier has been shrinking over the years and it will probably disappear completely within a few decades.

The trip was finished with sweet apricot cake tasting in a restaurant strategically located in the middle of the valley, where lit by the last sunrays, I was surrounded with high peaks in the background.

My original plan was to visit the village of Shimshal, which is connected by one of the most dangerous roads in the world, but (un)fortunately the only jeep available for transport was fully booked already two days in advance. Instead, I decided to utilize the day climbing up to the Rakaposhi base camp at 3,450 meters above sea level. This was how the day went:

6:00am: The driver picks me up in the hotel and takes me to the last accessible village of Minapin.

7:00am:  I drink a cup green tea, say goodbye to the driver and start walking.”The first part up on the main path is rather easy. You will reach Hapakun Meadows Camping site in two and a half hours. You can get food or tea there, before ascending to the base camp. You will need 1.5 hours for that steep walk. Good luck!” were the words of hotel and restaurant owner Ali.

8:30am: I have been progressing well, passing isolated stone houses, where the stream erases the tracks of the cart path. A young shepherd directs me to the right through a thick forest. Suddenly there is no more trodden earth or clear sings of the path. I can only follow the sheep route through steep ascent, catching roots and tree branches in slippery terrain to avoid falling. I am lost, trapped among slippery rocks and patches of soil. 5 minutes later, I am happy to return to the path again.

9:00am: 30 minutes ahead of schedule I reach the Hapakun Meadows Camping site. I am tired but happy with the magnificent view over the valley. Sitting in a comfortable chair, refilling batteries by chai, I salute a group of Chinese visitors, who had spent the night in the campground. The camp is almost empty. Two more weeks and it will be closed down, until the next spring.

9:40am: I continue climbing the last, steepest and most rewarding section up to the base. Trees are replaced by snow rags, soon united into several centimeters of snow. The path is muddy at some sections, but low temperatures below zero at night keep the soil frozen. After 45 minutes of steep climbing the view over a glacier, surrounded by peaks of Diran and Rakaposhi opens in front of me.

The sky is clear, only some tiny clouds are covering the highest peaks. Unspoiled nature at its best, no soul around, I just sit-down and inhale the moment that will stay with me forever.

The campsite is a 15-minute easy walk along the edge of the glacier in front of me. A few Pakistani still maintain it, half a dozen of foreigners hang around.

“A welcome green tea for you. For free. A gesture of our hospitality!”

I can’t believe how anybody can offer me free service in such a remote place, where people struggle to survive. This is Pakistan and Pakistani people are tremendously hospital.

12:30pm: I start the descend along the glacier. If it was slightly slippery ascending, the first part of descend is really dangerous, since the snow starts to melt. I can hardly stay on my feet. Worn-up sneakers are reaching the end of its life cycle, but soon I leave the snow area behind and my step is firm again.

2:30pm: I return to the village of Minapin. The owner of the restaurant kindly offers me dahl with chapattis and later drives me on his motorbike to the main road. The rest is routine.

I am tired, full of pride and satisfied that I am still fit, full of energy and eager for the action.

I didn’t want to return to Islamabad on The Karakoram Highway and was willing to do anything to avoid the scary ride – part 2. Therefore, I took a bus to Skardu, spent a night there and boarded the plane for Islamabad the next day.

Skardu was rather a disappointing place, much colder than Hunza, without any charm. It was really cold in a simple hotel, walking around at night without public lights was not fun. One of the best restaurants in the town didn’t surprise me with gourmet ventures.

A 2 million people city in the western part of Pakistan, bordering with Afghanistan, is one of the most vibrant places in the country. With its historical importance, positioned on the Silk Road, Peshawar has been offering shelter to many Afghan refugees who were escaping from decades of wars in their home country.

My main missions in Peshawar was the following: get tourist visa for Afghanistan, visit the maintenance workshops for colorful trucks and buy traditional Afghani clothes to wear while visiting my next destination.

My mission was successful, but I also enjoyed Peshawar as a destination more than any other city in Pakistan.

The central area of markets is a truly captivating experience. Tiny streets are organized according to the goods or services they offer.

Jewelry, food, textile, women clothes, spare parts and maintenance service for cars, dry-fruit vendors and money changers. Wide offer of food, from fried fish, biryani and lassi, to fresh fruits, vegetables and sweets, was tempting.

The Sethi House Museum is well maintained, while the Mahabat Khan Mosque was a quiet shelter in midday sun. A local jewelry vendor took me to the second floor of the crumbling remains of a building that was destroyed in the fire, from where a beautiful view of the old mosque opened up.

He proposed that we have lunch together, but I found it necessary to refuse his invitation. While in Peshawar, I experienced my second episode of diarrhea and stomach pain in a period of less than two weeks and I didn’t want to take any risks.

“Don’t you want to visit the maintenance and mechanic workshops, where famous trucks are being painted?” a random souvenir vendor asked me.

“Sure, why not!”

I really adore Pakistani picturesque trucks, which I could consider the most colorful in the world. I hired a rickshaw driver, who was instructed where to take me. Wherever we stopped and asked for directions, people were happy to see me, saluting, asking the reasons for my visit and the name of my country.

It was late and most of the mechanics were already resting when we arrived to a compound on the eastern edge of the city. Finally, a group of young merchants assured me that we arrived to the right area. Abdullah offered me a cup of tea and took me around to see the action.

Young mechanics, painters, electricians and artists were repairing, welding, cleaning, screwing and decorating dozens of trucks in a dirty, spacious yard.

Truck art in this region is a popular form of regional decoration and it has been mastered in Pakistan. Trucks feature elaborate design patterns and calligraphy that can be either drawn or stick with labels.

Additionally, most Pakistani trucks have an augmented rooftop and extended rear part to increase space for cargo.

While talking to people of Pakistan throughout my journey, I’ve received some impressions of Pakistan that are based on independent opinions, but are very similar, regardless of age, region, social status or education level.

The army is still a main player in the country when important decisions regarding politics, development, security and international role are in question. They are much more powerful than elected politicians on national or local level.

The best example is the famous cricket player Imran Khan who, after successful sport and business career, became president in 2018. He increased popularity due to anti-corruption policy, concern for lower class people and strong position on international affairs, where he put his country ahead of international interests. He was finally kicked out of the power and imprisoned by military lobby that had a different agenda.

Another common topic is corruption. The army influence, like annoying parasite, has penetrated in all parts of life on all possible levels. It has negatively impacted development or maintenance projects, the efficiency of government institutions and the faith in progress.