Peru – Long trip

Visited: May 1997

Duration of visit: 57 days

Capital city: Lima

Population: 34 million (2022)

Estimated reading time: 19 minutes

• The capital city Lima: spanning from the prestige areas of Miraflores to historical Plaza de Armas and the impoverished pueblos jovenes.
• Captivated by the kilometers-long line of flying birds just above the sea’s surface on the Ballestas Islands.
• Flying over the Nazca lines while contemplating their origins.
• Magic in the air: condors flying over Colca Canyon.
• A 50-kilometers hike at altitudes reaching 4,000 meters along the Inca Trail to reach the hidden city of Machu Picchu.
• Navigating to Uros Islands made of totora reeds on Lake Titicaca – the highest navigable lake in the world.

My initial encounter with Peru occurred in 1997 as a part of my American Big Tour, which started in New York and ended in Buenos Aires 15 months later. I spent almost two months travelling from the northern border, through Lima, Islas Ballestas, Nazca, Ica, Arequipa, Colca Canyon, Cusco and Machu Picchu to Lake Titicaca.

In this article I describe the following topics of my trip Peru – Long trip: Lima – the city of extremes, an endless line of flying birds in Islas Ballestas, peculiar images in Nazca, Andean condors flying above Colca Canyon, among the Uros people of Lake Titicaca, Machu Picchu – The Lost city of the Incas, Peruvian cuisine and Incas legacy.

More articles about my Peruvian adventures are available here:

When crossing the border from Ecuador to Peru, I experienced the most beautiful reception by custom officials on the entire trip through the Americas. Friendly customs officers helped me filling out the forms, offered useful advices and wished me a pleasant stay.

And this is, how it was!

From the first drive with a big, stylish Chevrolet from the 1960s, reminding on rock & roll king Elvis Presley, until the last day when exiting the border towards Chile.

Many people scared me before coming to Peru about the danger in the capital Lima, common robbery attacks while trekking on Machu Picchu, scams in Cusco and more. I successfully avoided all troubles.

Even more, Peru definitely ranks at the top three of my favorite countries to visit on the American continent.

In contract, Peru in 1997 is far from being a paradise for majority of Peruvians. Most people are very unsatisfied with the current situation in their homeland. Extreme poverty, unemployment, racial discrimination, ongoing political scandals and terrorist riots, have put Peru on the brink of collapse. President Fujimori is widely held responsible for the prevailing issues, with many viewing him as a genuine dictator.

They might be right, as he practically eliminated the role of democratically elected parliament, positioned himself as the army leader, suppressed most of his opponents and successfully controls the rest. Nevertheless, the real problem might be hidden in people themselves. If we consider that all adult Peruvians must vote (otherwise they pay a heavy fine), they could have changed the direction of the country long ago, at least indirectly.

From Ecuadorian border I took a bus directly to Lima.

During the 20-hour drive, we stopped several times at customs checkpoints, where Peruvian passengers were treated as some kind of smugglers by local authorities. While foreigners where not checked at all, their luggage was taken out of the bus, opened, scanned, investigated and even checked by specially trained dogs. I guess drugs are the main reason for suspicion.

In addition, smuggling without payment of import duties and taxes is strictly controlled, but permitted in the case of paying a bribe to corrupt authorities.

Peruvian coast presents a dry desert landscape, devoid of any visible plant life.

The road is perfect, traffic limited, the view to beautiful sandy beaches along the Pacific Ocean is tempting to get off the bus and swim in the sea. Later I realized that waters of Pacific in the north of Peru can be rather cold.

A few kilometers before arriving to Lima our bus broke down. After inspecting the engine for 20 minutes, both drivers and the conductor agreed:

“We ran out of petrol. It will be necessary to go to the gas station.”

Clever assumption that could be easily prevented.

It is possible that the cause was the chief driver resting in the luggage compartment located behind the back wheel, on the lower deck of the bus. I couldn’t believe when I saw him waking up and crawling out of his improvised sleeping room.

The first feelings on arrival to Lima suburbs were anything but pleasant, which was probably also due to fatigue after a long journey. In addition to traffic chaos, roads were covered with desert sand that also accumulated on the tin roofs of half-ruined houses in the poorest neighborhood of the capital.

We definitely approached Lima from the wrong side – through the so-called pueblos jovenes, where basic huts are built without planning, permission, nor infrastructure on public areas. Modest cottages are extremely colorful at least from outside, but they rarely have electricity or running water.

When the bus broke down for the second time, I was doubtful that we would reach the downtown at all. The flat tire was surprisingly quickly fixed allowing us to complete the final leg of our journey to the bus terminal.

The third-largest city in South America, after São Paulo and Buenos Aires, the culinary capital, home to almost a third of Peruvians, colonial buildings embellished with elaborately carved wooden balconies and decorative baroque elements are some of Lima highlights.

Among travelers, Lima is considered one of the least popular cities in South America due to skillful pickpockets. It gained this bad reputation a few years earlier. when many locals and travelers got into various problems with bribed police officers and professionally organized pickpockets’ groups.

Recently the situation has improved considerably. City authorities began to realize that foreign visitors were a much-needed source of dollars for the indebted state, therefore they provided additional security at the most frequented points.

For many Peruvians, white gringos (foreigners) as an intriguing presence. Seductive Peruvian women are especially enthusiastic about tall Europeans or rich Americans. Spanish-speaking visitors are assured of an enriching experience, as there is always a local guide or admirer in search of information about the promised land on the other side of the world.

Lima is the city of contrast: rich – poor, cheap – expensive, historical – modern.

There are different areas within the same city that don’t have much in common. Different racial structure is also obvious when you switch a zone.

Since I spent most of the time in the Historic Centre of Lima, I was impressed impressed when visiting the prestige Miraflores area. Modernly landscaped seaside neighborhood of Lima reminded me quite a bit of California coastline. Surfers test their skills on big waves of the Pacific Ocean; among the tall glass buildings in expensive restaurants and night bars white people from the upper classes, with a specific dialect, are predominant.

During numerous occasions combined I spent almost a month in the city of Lima. I commuted around on public transport different kind of taxis (particulars or shared taxis) and later also in a private car.

I experienced garúa – the fine sea mist that enfolds the city all year round and gives it this melancholic sadness, causing coldness due to high humidity. The temperatures are in general not so low, but there is no other place in the world, where I would experience such a cold as here in Lima. It is a fact that I was not properly dressed. Nevertheless, it is unreasonable to anticipate enduring the cold while on a beach.

Some of the landmarks that I appreciated the most are the following:

Plaza de Armas (also called Plaza Mayor) with La Catedral and Palacio del Gobierno is the hearth of historical Lima. In 1535 the conqueror of Peru, Francisco Pizarro, founded a new capital city for Peru which he called “The City of Kings“. After the earthquake of 1746, when most of the buildings from the original city were lost, the whole area was reconstructed.

On the place where Jose San Martín declared the Independence of Peru on 28^th July, 1821, el Palacio del Gobierno, official residence of the president, was constructed. During the colonial era, the plaza served as a market, bull fighting ring, and the city gallows. Today a beautiful park on the plaza is a place for photo shooting for many tourists and locals and enjoy the changing of the guard at the Government Palace.

Basílica y Convento de San Francisco de Lima is the greatest and most noble monument that the conquest erected in these wonderful lands of Peru. They consist of three churches: San Francisco, La Soledad and El Milagro, which are made in beautiful baroque architectural style. Inside the churches there are fine works of art of great historical and economic value.

However, what is most striking are its extensive underground cloisters, the catacombs. They are a series of vaults built underground used for the burial of members of brotherhoods since colonial times.

Parque del Amor (Love Park) is set on the cliffs of Chorrillos – Miraflores, creating an illusion of floating over the Pacific Ocean. A small park, entirely dedicated to all lovers, offers a stunning view of the bay of Lima in particularly romantic setting at sunrise and sunset. The surrounding walls are artfully decorated with mosaics. In the center of the park the statue El Beso (The Kiss) features a couple passionately absorbed in the act of kissing. It is a favorite hangout spot for people in love of all ages.

The city’s most romantic and bohemian district, being home and working place of many Peruvian leading artists, musicians, designers and photographers is Barranco.

Barranco’s beaches are among the most popular within the worldwide surfing community; especially in the summer the Pacific is warm enough for swimming as well. Mural-splattered buildings, tasty local treats, colorful street art, tucked away bars and coffee shops, vibrant old mansions and summer houses, delicious food and plenty of bohemian vibes are trademarks of Barranco.

Puente de los Suspiros is a dizzying wooden footbridge that straddles a narrow alley hollowed into the cliff. It comes with a legend that states that if you make a wish and hold your breath for the entire time you walk across the 100-foot bridge, then your wish will come true.

I continued the journey to the south, where the most interesting attractions along the coast are located. A short boat ride from Paracas, rocky islands of Islas Ballestas are scattered in the Pacific Ocean.

Ideal conditions created by the Humboldt Current enable the animal inhabitants of the Ballestas and the nearby Paracas Peninsula to thrive. The cold current pulls up water from the ocean floor, bringing lower temperatures and nutrients to the surface. These conditions create an ideal feeding zone for fish, consequently drawing larger predators.

I spotted thousands of squawking birds, penguins and roaring sea lions on the islands. In fact, there are so many of them that we couldn’t even step on the islands; we observed them right from the boat. Environmental laws prevent visitors from landing on the islands, so we were cruising their perimeters, arches, and caves for close-up wildlife observation.

For many centuries seabirds have deposited their guano on the Ballestas Islands and other isles of Peru. And since the time of the Incas, this guano has been used as a fertilizer. Some of the animals that we spotted on the islands were:

• Guanays – easy to distinguish from other cormorants because they have red circles around their eyes and white bellies.
• Humboldt penguins only populate the coast of Peru and northern Chile, living up to twenty years, eating anchovies, herring, and other fish.
• Peruvian boobies are year-round residents of the Ballestas Islands and close cousins with blue-footed boobies that inhabit the Galapagos Islands.
• Chocolate-colored South American sea lions are among the most charismatic residents. Huge males can weigh up to 350 kilograms; females are about half the size and weight.
• Gray fur seals and Peruvian pelicans can be found up and down the coast of Peru.

The most captivating moment occurs when an entire flock of birds migrates from one island to another.

A few kilometers long line of flying birds in the late afternoon only centimeters above sea level remind on a long rope that never ends.

Who created the peculiar images located in the Nazca desert area?

Images of monkeys, trees, birds and hands exceed the size of 400 meters, so you can’t even see them from the land.

Were they Martians, Indians, or anyone else?

Is it a calendar, maybe even symbols for getting to know extraterrestrial civilizations?

Every person is entitled to their own interpretation, and there is a collective sense of enthusiasm among all of us, when observing The Nazca Lines during a half-hour flight on a small plane.

I wonder how the indigenous civilizations managed to create the Nazca lines so accurately considering they had no opportunity to view these formations from the air.

Nazca lines represent a group of geoglyphs made in the soil of the Nazca Desert between 500 BC and 500 AD. The lines are typically 10 to 15 cm deep; combined length of all the lines is more than 1,300 kilometers. They were made by removing the top layer of reddish-brown iron oxide-coated pebbles to reveal a yellow-grey subsoil. Because of its isolation and the dry, windless, stable climate of the plateau, the lines have mostly been preserved naturally.

Due to the same dry and windless conditions Chauchilla Cemetery stayed practically intact from 9^th century until 1920s, when discovered. In the middle of the desert nearby Nazca, the cemetery contains pre-Hispanic mummified human remains and archeological artifacts.

The bodies are so remarkably preserved due to the dry climate in the Peruvian Desert that they seem much younger. Mummification experts prepared death bodies in a special way, clothed them in embroidered cotton, painted with a resin and kept in purpose-built tombs, made from mud bricks.

I gratefully declined organized trips and visited Colca Canyon on my own. Our accommodation in the village of Cabanaconde was the only guesthouse available, characterized by the absence of electricity and the provision of only cold water.

The local people maintain their ancestral traditions and continue to cultivate the pre-Inca stepped terraces. In the late afternoon many of them were walking back from the fields, carrying crops and dry corn straws. At an altitude above 3,200 meters temperatures dropped below 0°C at night. Hostel walls were made of dried mud to protect from the cold air, since there was no heating in the room.

The following morning, it was essential to rise early, shortly before six o’clock. Within a n hour, the bus transported us to the picturesque canyon.

The Colca Canyon, reaching a depth of approximately 3,270 meters, ranks as the fourth deepest canyon globally.

It is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, and its steep walls are embellished with ancient terraces that continue to be utilized for agricultural purposes.

Around ten o’clock the largest birds in the world, the Andean condors, start showing first signs of activities. When Kings of the Andes, one of the largest birds weighting in average 12 kilograms, spread their wings during a flight, they reach a range of over 2.5 meters.

Approaching midday, the flights were longer and a kind of exhibition or flying parade over our heads was getting full of splendor, until approximately twenty condors together gloriously flew a few meters above us.

Condors take advantage of the different currents of hot air to be able to launch themselves into flight over the canyon walls. They are carrion animals, so on their flight, they are in search of their next objectives, taking full advantage of their extraordinary vision.

I was so excited about the condors that I returned to Colca Canyon the next morning and enjoyed this incredible performance of condors again.

Lake Titicaca is the world’s highest navigable lake at an altitude of 3,820m above the sea level, divided between Bolivia and Peru. Peru has more benefits out of it, both in the size and from the tourist income.

Among many islands, the most famous are the floating islands made of totora reeds inhabited by the Uros tribe. Out of 2,000 Uros people that remain in Peru, around 1,200 still live on the floating islands of Lake Titicaca, but younger generations tend to move to the mainland. Homes, boats, and the islands themselves are all made of totora reeds.

Most of Uros Islands were located near the middle of the lake. In 1986, after a major storm devastated their islands, many Uros rebuilt their new homes closer to the shore. If a threat emerged, they could simply move their islands elsewhere in the lake.

Their lifestyle has been greatly modernized in the 20^th century, but some of them still live very simply. There is no electricity; the water comes from the lake, where all the waste ends; food is based on fish, potatoes and particular non-flying birds. Men take care of the restoration of reed ground, which sink constantly. Women try to please tourists demand for souvenirs, photos and food. Most children are well trained to extend their hands and approach gringos asking for money, candy, fruits or other goodies.

The small totora reed island with a diameter of about 50 meters that I visited, was made exclusively for tourist purposes. On the neighboring, less touristy islands, the ground has already solidified fairly: Coca Cola replaced water, solar panels – candles, evening conversations have been substituted by telenovelas.

To make an island, the Uros people create a sturdy but light base tying together layers of totora roots, which are bundled and stacked with many layers of totora reeds.

The new island is anchored into the bottom of the lake with rope. The islanders can maintain each island for up to 30 years, constantly adding new layers of reeds once a week during the rainy season and once a month during the dry season.

For the grand conclusion of my month-long exploration of Peru, I chose to visit the historic Incan capital of Cusco and the Lost City of Machu Picchu, before returning to Lima.

The Incas empire stretched from modern-day Argentina to southern Columbia, from the early 15^th century up until its conquest by the Spanish in the 1530s.

The connection of Cusco by road to the principal cities within the current boundaries of Peru, Ecuador, and Bolivia represented an important advancement in regional accessibility. When Spanish conquered Inca empire in 1532, Cusco stood out as one of the most developed cities in the world.

The Incas crafted magnificent objects from gold and silver, but perhaps their most striking examples of art were in the form of textiles, made of alpaca or vicuna wool and cotton. Inca stone-working abilities were also formidable. Their craftsmen fitted building stone together perfectly without using any mortar.

The most evident example of this technique is visible at Sacsayhuaman, near Cuzco, where huge, heavy stones were joined together witch such precaution, that an object as thin as a razor blade could not be inserted between the stones.

The fate of the entire Inca Empire was sealed, when Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizzaro assassinated the last influential Inca ruler, Atahualpa, and began a conquest march throughout the empire. He destroyed everything that came to his hands and to make the humiliation even greater converted the most sacred Incas temples to churches or left them in ruins.

Fortunately, Pizzaro never managed to discover Machu Picchu, hidden among the Andean peaks only approximately 100 kilometers from Cusco. At the end of 20^th century, Machu Picchu has become a sort of pilgrimage destination of South America.

Visitors arrive at this location to explore the remnants of the lost city, yet there are various forms to experiencing it. The starting point is Cusco, from where, depending on a budget, physical condition and time available you choose the mode of travel. Reach and wealthy arrive by helicopter in 25 minutes; tourists usually board a train (3 hours); adventurists and backpackers with a little less money, more time available and adventurous spirit opt for two to four-day trekking – the Inca Trail.

A 15^th century Inca citadel of the Lost City of the Incas is the most familiar icon of Inca civilization with a small mountain Huayna Picchu in the background. A local guide conducted us through Temple of the Sun, the Room of the Three Windows and other temples of the upper town, clearly outstanding via the architecture adapted to the mountain’s slopes.

Personally, I appreciated location and magical surrounding as much as the archeological remains of great Incas civilization.  All of this before tourist groups arrived by train and turned the place into a chaotic photo shooting scene.

Peruvian cuisine has been developing for millennia across three distinct regions, reflecting local practices and ingredients including influences mainly from the indigenous population and cuisines brought by immigrants from Europe and especially Asia (predominantly Japanese). Recently Peruvian traditional staples (corn, potatoes, quinoa, beans and lupins) have increased in international popularity.

Traditional Peruvian seafood, meat and vegetables mix fusion with Japanese flavor and dishes have evolved into the most respected culinary delights on American continent.

My favorite Peruvian dishes are:

• Papas a la Huancaina (Potatoes in Spicy Cheese Sauce) – a yellow sauce over yellow potatoes topped with yellow-yoked hard-boiled eggs. The sauce is the ingredient that makes a difference: purée of fresh cheese, aji amarillo, garlic, evaporated milk, lime juice and saltine crackers.
• Causa (Potato Casserole) – yellow Peruvian potatoes blended with lime, oil and spicy aji amarillo On top shredded tuna, salmon, or chicken are mixed with mayo, followed by layers of avocado, hardboiled eggs, and olives.
• Chicharrón de mariscos o pescado – mixed fried seafood or fish.
• Tiradito de pescado (sashimi) – thinly sliced raw fish covered with a special sauce using yellow chilis, garlic and cilantro.

Since I don’t eat meat, my list can be biased, so I will add some other dishes that are on top of the list, but I haven’t appreciated them: lomo saltado (chopped steak), aji de gallina (spicy chicken), anticuchos (beef heart kebabs) and cuy chactado (fried guinea pig).

A special position goes to cebiche.

Cebiche (in English ceviche) is considered the most representative dish of Peru.

Its history dates back to pre-Columbian times. There is a great diversity of cebiches between the different coastal regions of Peru.

The basic ingredients of any classic Peruvian cebiche are pieces of fish, onion and lemon juice, which must be exclusively Piuran lemon, from the Chira Valley. Other ingredients such as julienned red onion, cilantro, corn and celery can also be added. To prepare it, the fish is mixed with the other ingredients, leaving it to marinate according to taste.

There are different types of ceviche, as well as dishes derived from it, which have achieved great popularity. The most popular are: fish ceviche, mixed ceviche, black shell ceviche, shrimp ceviche and octopus ceviche.

My favorite deserts are mazamorra morada (purple corn jam), arroz con leche (rice pudding) and churros. Even though churros origin is Spain, they have been perfectionated to masterpiece in Lima. Churros rellenos are made by frying a doughnut-shaped pastry in oil and then filling it with a sweet filling such as chocolate or dulce de leche.

The enticing smell coming from the transparent glass boxes, where they are displayed on the pavements of the old part of the city, is unforgettable. Placed under a hot bulb to stay warm and dusted with powdered sugar to make them just right sweet.

Pisco sour, an alcoholic cocktail prepared from pisco, freshly squeezed lemon juice, simple syrup, ice, egg white, and Angostura bitters is the most famous Peruvian cocktail. The main ingredient pisco is a colorless or yellowish-to-amber colored brandy, made by distilling fermented grape juice into a high-proof spirit. It was developed by Spanish settlers in the 16^th century.

Chicha morada is a non-alcoholic beverage produced of purple corn, which is abundantly grown and harvested along the Andes Mountains. Traditionally is prepared by boiling purple corn in water along with pineapple peels and pieces of quince, adding a pinch of cinnamon and a few cloves, sweetened by sugar.